Author Topic: Chain Tensioning Options?  (Read 11480 times)

Chain Tensioning Options?
« on: 16 March, 2010, 10:24:58 pm »
If you were considering getting a custom frame that you wanted to be able to run as fixed, SS, hub gear or derailler, what's the best option for chain tensioning and why? This would be rim rather than disc/hub brakes.

I'm only aware of, rear derailler, chain tensioner, horizontal dropouts, track ends, sliding dropouts, magic gears and eccentric bottom brackets. In this instance I'm discounting the idea of filing out a bit of a vertical dropout ;D
Nuns, no sense of humour

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #1 on: 16 March, 2010, 10:32:34 pm »
Chain tensioner or rear dérailleur won't work with fixed.

semi-horizontal dropouts.

Little to go wrong, will work for any of the gear options.
<i>Marmite slave</i>

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #2 on: 16 March, 2010, 10:34:27 pm »
A nice  long pair of  old fashioned forward facing dropouts as brazed into my old CB Dalesman frame circa 1980 sumfink

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #3 on: 16 March, 2010, 10:37:08 pm »
Chain tensioner or rear dérailleur won't work with fixed.

semi-horizontal dropouts.

Little to go wrong, will work for any of the gear options.

Thanks, I do know what works with what I'm just crap at expressing it properly. I just don't know the full pros and cons of each. I suppose the main decision is tension via dropouts or tension via BB. I like the simplicity of vertical dropouts but have no experience of EBB's.

The frame would be titanium if that matters
Nuns, no sense of humour

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #4 on: 16 March, 2010, 10:44:20 pm »
A nice  long pair of  old fashioned forward facing dropouts as brazed into my old CB Dalesman frame circa 1980 sumfink

Just what i was about to put.
I have a frame with some nice forward facing, sort of horizontal drop outs. It was a geared bike originally that i converted to fixed.
It would have been very simple to convert it to gears aswell.


Don't question. It makes people angry.

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #5 on: 17 March, 2010, 03:48:11 pm »
A nice  long pair of  old fashioned forward facing dropouts as brazed into my old CB Dalesman frame circa 1980 sumfink

Just what i was about to put.
+1
Quote
I have a frame with some nice forward facing, sort of horizontal drop outs.
[semantic pedant]
I tend to use Sheldon's terminology. It accords with traditional UK usage, where dropouts were (and remain) a useful innovation compared with the older rear-facing fork ends.
[/semantic pedant]
Quote
It was a geared bike originally that i converted to fixed.
It would have been very simple to convert it to gears aswell.
+1   :)

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #6 on: 17 March, 2010, 03:50:33 pm »
rear-facing fork ends ? do you mean track ends ?

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #7 on: 17 March, 2010, 04:04:11 pm »
rear-facing fork ends ? do you mean track ends ?
Not exactly. Track ends are an example, specifically a very good quality one. Some cheap bikes came with the ends of the chainstays squashed flat and rearwards facing slots cut into them for the axle. Mrs N.'s 1976 Moulton Midi has simple steel plates brazed into the chainstays, that I would hesitate to call track ends, because they are too insubstantial to survive the stresses of track usage. There may be other variations - I'm no cycling historian.

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #8 on: 17 March, 2010, 04:11:17 pm »
"Horizontal" dropouts are angled so that the brake blocks remain pretty much aligned with the rim no matter where in the dropout the axle sits. Forward facing horizontal dropouts are rarely actually horizontal.

Track ends require brake block position adjustments if the axle is moved significantly (flipping a fixed/single-speed wheel for a different sprocket size for example).
"Yes please" said Squirrel "biscuits are our favourite things."

Charlotte

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Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #9 on: 17 March, 2010, 04:21:15 pm »
Aye, Greenbank's right.  Track ends are basically for poseurs who want you to know that their bike was designed as a single-speed/fixed wheel bike.  If you're likely to be taking the wheel out on a regular basis, they're actually a bit of a faff.  Especially with mudguards.

If it adds to your range of options, you could look at the sort of dropouts that I have on my Mercian.
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Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #10 on: 17 March, 2010, 04:23:47 pm »
I would go for long horizontal dropouts with integral gear hanger, eg:





It's simple; can be used with fixed, SS, hub gear or derailler.

rogerzilla

  • When n+1 gets out of hand
Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #11 on: 17 March, 2010, 05:35:01 pm »
EBBs have a reputation for seizing solid if not religiously maintained, so I'd also go for horizontal dropouts.  You don't need long ones.  The exception is if you're running a rear disc brake, when the EBB is best.  On-One Inbreds with track ends have a slotted disc caliper mount instead, but that's more faff than an EBB and they are disc-only - there are no V-brake bosses.
Hard work sometimes pays off in the end, but laziness ALWAYS pays off NOW.

Zoidburg

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #12 on: 17 March, 2010, 05:40:19 pm »
If it were an option then I would be looking at sliding dropouts.

gordon taylor

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #13 on: 17 March, 2010, 07:00:19 pm »
Er, just to confuse things...

I think eccentric BBs are fab - because everything is so neat and there's no faff with brakes or 'guard positions.


Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #14 on: 17 March, 2010, 07:08:19 pm »
Another vote for EBB. Makes changing the rear wheel easier as well. Also a must for Rohloff users - the torque arm can be a real pain otherwise.

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #15 on: 17 March, 2010, 08:55:04 pm »
Wow, thanks folks, info there I was unaware of, looks like I can strike track ends off the list. So that narrows it down to EBB versus longish horizontal dropouts versus sliding dropouts. It will be v or canti brakes so I do like an option that would mean pads didn't need adjusting. Sliding drops would mean pad adjustments unless the slide was angled, or am I being confused?

Hmmm, EBB really appeals, neat and tidy, ticks all the boxes. But, following a bit of reading up, and Rogers post, I'm concerned re reliability and longevity. If they need a lot of TLC then maybe I'm not a good partner for them.

Horizontal drops, I've got them on two bikes already, stick with what I know, don't go getting all fangled and modern on myself. Though I do use chaintugs(I think they're called) on both sides.

I will continue to read and ponder, will consult in detail with frame builder when final decision is made. I think I'm getting close now, I can't see more than another 20 mind changes ahead of me ;D....thanks for the help again.....Al
Nuns, no sense of humour

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #16 on: 17 March, 2010, 08:58:14 pm »
I'm not sure whether it's an issue for OP, but how easy is it to reverse the rear wheel to change sprockets with an EBB? My experience with a tandem EBB would put me off trying to do it during a ride, and maybe even during a longer trip.

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #17 on: 17 March, 2010, 08:59:45 pm »

If it adds to your range of options, you could look at the sort of dropouts that I have on my Mercian.

Very pretty, but how exactly does the axle drop out of those fork ends?

rogerzilla

  • When n+1 gets out of hand
Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #18 on: 17 March, 2010, 09:05:49 pm »
Pedant  :P
Hard work sometimes pays off in the end, but laziness ALWAYS pays off NOW.

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #19 on: 17 March, 2010, 09:17:36 pm »
Self-confessed pedant.

However, I fail to see how these "dropouts" differ from track ends and was looking for some explanation that I might have missed.

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #20 on: 17 March, 2010, 09:53:37 pm »
Your term 'fork ends' isn't very useful since the forks are at the other end of the bicycle. They are called forks because they look like a fork. The rear end of the bike with it's triangles doesn't.

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #21 on: 17 March, 2010, 10:25:44 pm »
Your term 'fork ends' isn't very useful since the forks are at the other end of the bicycle. They are called forks because they look like a fork. The rear end of the bike with it's triangles doesn't.

When I was young the ones at the front were called front forks.

If you take a bit of time to study the original Rover safety cycle, I think you might discover why the rear end was deemed to have forks as well.

border-rider

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #22 on: 17 March, 2010, 10:28:46 pm »
 If you're likely to be taking the wheel out on a regular basis, they're actually a bit of a faff.  Especially with mudguards.

No, no, no

They're really not.  If you run a stouter tyre it's actually a lot easier to remove the wheel with track ends than with forward-facing dropouts.  Since I do, that's why I use them.

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #23 on: 17 March, 2010, 10:40:08 pm »
 If you're likely to be taking the wheel out on a regular basis, they're actually a bit of a faff.  Especially with mudguards.

No, no, no

They're really not.  If you run a stouter tyre it's actually a lot easier to remove the wheel with track ends than with forward-facing dropouts.  Since I do, that's why I use them.

Isn't that a function of frame geometry? I cannot imagine having a problem with my venerable hack using anything less than 40mm tyres - after all it worked fine with 27" wheels.

border-rider

Re: Chain Tensioning Options?
« Reply #24 on: 17 March, 2010, 10:41:18 pm »
Yes

I really meant 32 or 35 mm tyres on bikes meant for 700C wheels.