Rear axle sliding in horizontal dropouts

My P2 DJ frame has chronic axle-sliding from braking torque or even pedal force exerted on the rear cog.

This causes problems, obviously, because the tire starts rubbing on the frame and my chainline & tension also get out of whack. How can I fix this problem? Get a bolt axle? Lose the horizontal dropouts?

Thanks in advance,
DHP

 

Are you using any tensioners on your dropouts?



Surly makes one that works with QR skewers. If that doesn't work out, you'll probably have to go with a bolt-on hub.

 

The tensioner being that black piece? No I don't have one.

Is it possible that my QR axle is just a shitty clamp that isn't strong enough, or alternatively that the rear dropouts aren't exactly 135 perhaps slightly less which is giving my axle insufficient clamping force?

 

If you are running a qr, it may be best to just go bolt on.

As mentioned, the Surly Tug nut can help.

 

I ran a QR on the back of my old 4X bike for nearly 9 years without a problem when the QR was properly tightened. The axle was slid all the way forward, so there was no need to worry about a tensioner. However, if I didn't get the QR tight, the left side of the wheel would move rearward from brake torque.

Here's the trick:
- You need a good quality QR. Although perhaps not the nicest, I used a Salsa QR.

- You need to get the QR so tight that it f@#$%g hurts the palm of your hand. If your palm doesn't have a temporary dent in it, you may not have it tight enough (it can be a pain to remove).

I now use a King hub with Fun Bolts.

The second photo is of my old Azonic circa 2002. I raced that same setup in some of the 4X races last year.

 

It's why I don't run QR only axles, tensioners are a dime a dozen I have at least half that many but they still dont keep the wheel from pulling out when you case. Take a file and rough up the dropout where the surfaces mate, metal on metal is better than slipping on paint.

 

I'm running a cheapo BMX tugnut type tensioner on the drive side and nothing on the brake side. This is with a XT QR skewers on my SS and I have no slippage problems.



I might add that the tensioner is pulling on the skewer rod with a spacer, since it's designed for a 10mm axle that sicks out past the tensioner.

 

That would be great advice if I wasn't running a SS setup :lol: I will try using my manly muscles and tightening it as you advised though - we'll see how it goes.

Can I use a bolt axle with Outlaws?

I feel like the dropouts are already faced but I'm not sure. Thanks for the input folks

 

Only difference for you is that you'll need a tensioner on the drive side.

Surly Tug shown below on the...um...Surly.

The Surly Tug is heavy, so pick up one of the lighter BMX types like the black Sinz one shown below on my BMX bike. (Note: the tension on the non-drive side is not needed and serves no real purpose, hence it's since been removed.)

 

I was getting at the fact that I can't slam my axle all the way in

...that sounded kinda naughty.

 

If you're slamming the wheel all the way forward, you don't need a tensioner. But having it all the way forward is a bit tough on a singlespeed. But...on my BMX bike, I needed the axle nearly all the way forward, but still needed a tensioner. I needed to slightly modify the tensioner to allow it to go as far forward as I needed it.

 

the key to slamming is an odd #, ie a 27-10 because you will always have one more outer plate than inner. If I remember a BMX chain's (KMC 410) links are half inch pin to pin, so knowing that and your chain stay length means never having to buy a master link if you choose the right cog/chain wheel. This is why I like the idea of BMX cranks and sprockets because they are virtually all odd numbers instead of the middle rings that are usually even like say a 27-16



Good luck. BTW this cool ass Skull and cross bones sprocket is only $24.

 

don't know what hubs you're using, but a lot of QR hubs can be rebuilt with a bolt on axle, I remember doing that on an old bike that was set up single speed. I still ran tensioners, less hassle and no slippage.

 

yeah, I had the same problem with my mob, even using a 10mm QR thru axle. went and bought a hadley axle and it's done the trick.

if you need a spare tensioner, I've got one that works with a 10mm axle that I can part with.

should be able to work a threaded axle into most hubs (especially if it's cup/cone)

 

yes you can get a bolt for outlaws.....

 

What i run
Momentum Axle
[3200-003] $14.95 Made of Chromoly steel and uses BMX axle nuts. Converts 12mm through axle to standard 3/8” axle. Fits Outlaw wheel set and any application that requires 12mm x 135mm through axle.


http://www.azonicusa.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=52_41&products_id=116

 

can his frame fit a 12? im guessing a 10......

 

thats a 3/8" it will fit in anything a qr fit sin standard bmx size

 

durr... i guess i could have read that LOL

 

dumb & dumber