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Apparel november2021

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Asha Gautam
Asha Gautam

The impact on fanfare plays a quintessential role in the design choices. Muted neutral tones, with minimalistic leanings, are outfit options that most brides prefer today

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OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF THE CLOTHING MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION OF INDIA Vol. 41 - Issue 11 NoVeMBeR 2021 Wed d in g SeaSon RevS Up Celebrating indian Textiles Nila House is revitalising traditional textiles “india has always beena fascination” An interview with Caroline Palmer, founder, Artisans of Fashion Follow us on www.facebook.com/cmaiapparel
f r o m the president’s desk Help us improve Apparel. Pleasesend in your suggestions and feedback to apparel.spenta@gmail.com 2 I APPAREL I November 2021 Rajesh M asand DearFriends, After avery long time,the Apparel Industry seemedto be getting backon its track, with avery good Business seen during Diwali. Onone hand,the Pricesof YarnandFabricshavebeenincreasingonadailybasis,asalsothe other RawMaterials which areusedinManufacturing, resultinginIncrease inthePriceofthe Product.Itwill not beoutofcontextto saythatthePrices havetouched thesky. Onother hand,theGovernmenthasincreasedtheRateof GSTonthe Entire Textile Chain from 5% to 12% w.e.f.01-01-2022, this is inspite of CMAI,alongwith manyother AssociationsandTradeBodiesfrom all over Indiahave been vigorously representing to the Government and GSTCouncil not to implement this change. And it is indeedextremely disappointingthattheGSTCouncilhaschosennot to heedour pleaas thiswill leadto massiveIncreaseinPricesofallGarmentsandmoresoin Garmentswhichwere sellingatlessthan`1,000 MRP. OnNovember23,2021,CMAI will beLaunchingitsArbitrationCellat YogiSabhagruh,Mumbai.Worldover,withLawCourtsbecomingtime consumingandexpensive,Arbitrationisbecomingoneof the mostsought after remediesto settle commercialdisputes.WithanArbitration Award our Member can get aquasi-legal, validity to the Award, this will help our Members recover their Money faster which wasotherwisedifficult to recover. CMAI will also be Launching its Membership Card,which will entail Discountsto our Members atvariousDepartmentStores andBrandsshop. On November 24-25, 2021, CMAI is holding its,first Vendor SourcingFair, atHotel SaharaStar,Mumbai.ThisisonemoreinitiativebyCMAI,to provide aPlatformfor itsMembers to transactbusinesswith big BuyersandBrands. ThisPlatformwill provideopportunitiesfor Factoriesto directlyconnectwith Buyers who have potential to place Big Orders and the Buyer can connect with Factoriesfortheir Private Labels. Wewill continue in our Endeavourto serve our Members with innovative ways,whichwill benefit them,OnesuchProjectonwhich weareworking,is Bill DiscountingandCreditInsurances! WithWarmRegards,
• • ȡ ˜ ‡ ȡ … ȡ … ȡ ȡ š ! ! CMAI ˜ ˜ Ʌ[˜ ȯ ǐ› ff€kš Ǖ ǐ ˜ ˜ ȡ È ˜ ȡ]”˜ ȯ € Ǖ †˜ ˜ ȯ Ò Ʌ ˜ ˜ ȯ ¡ Ǖ f¡ Ȱ ,ǐ ‡ ˜ ȯ ǐ ˜ ˜ ˜ ˜ ȣ˜ ȯ ˜ ȡ Û ȯ €̃ ¡ Ȫ ˜ ȯ ˜ ȡ˜ ¡ ȯ ¡ Ȱ ? CMAI ˜ ȯf € f˜ Ʌ Ȣ M/s KRRV ˜ ȯ ȡ• ˜ Ȳ € [ǐ˜ ˜ ȡ¡ , Ȱ ˜ Ȫ]˜ ˜ ȯ ]`˜ è˜ ɇǐ˜ ˜ Ȳ ˜ Ȫ ǐš € • š ˜ ˜ ˜ ȯ˜ Ʌ ]˜ ˜ ȧ ˜ ‘ ‘˜ ˜ ˜ ȯ Ȣʨ ˜ ȡ ˜ ˜ ˜ ȧ ˜ ȡ˜ Ȣ˜ ȡ ˜ Ȣ˜ Ȳ ˜ ˜ Ȣ˜ Ȫ€ _ ˜ ˜ ɇ k š ^ Û ž š ǕÛ ˜ à˜ ˜ Ȣ˜ ˜ ȯ ȡ • ˜ ȡ˜ ˜ ˜ ˜ Ȣ¡ Ȱ ʨ ˜ Ȣ ˜ ˜ ȯ j ǐ Ý ˜ ǐ ȡ˜ ȯ ˜ ˜ ȯ ˜ Ʌ˜ Ȱ ˜ ȯ¡ f Ǖ ¡ , Ȱ˜ Ȣ ˜ ˜ ȯ ˜ ǐ˜ f ¡«ȡ˜ Ȫ ˜ ȣ ˜ ˜ ȯ [ ˜ ȧ Đ ȯǐŒ Š ˜ Ȩ ˜ ȸ ˜ ȯ ˜ ȡ˜ ˜ ȡ … › ˜ ˜ ȡ ¡ Ȱ ǐ ’€˜ ȡ˜ ˜ ȡ˜ ȣ˜ ȯǐ ›f ˜ Ȳ € [ ĮȢ. Ĥ ˜ ȣ ˜ ˜ ¡ ȯ ˜ ȡ ˜ Ȩ˜ - 022-24390909, +917045626275 _ - ˜ ˜ ȯ ]˜ ˜ Ȣ - CNA@CMAI.IN
contents m a rch 2021 09 11 APPAREL,the monthlymagazine of CMAI, Edited, Printed and Publishedby Mr. ManeckDavarat SpentaMultimediaPvtLtd, Peninsula Spenta, MathuradasMillCompound, SenapatiBapat Marg, Lower Parel (W),Mumbai- 400 013. Publishedfrom 902, Mahalaxmi Chambers, 22, Bhulabhai Desai Road, Mumbai - 400 026. Theviewsandopinionsexpressedor implied by writersinAPPARELmagazinearethose of CMAI orSpentaMultimediaPvt Ltd Unsolicited articlesandtransparenciesaresent inat theowner’srisk and thepublisher acceptsnoliabilityfor lossor damage. Material in thispublicationmaynot be reproduced, whether inpart or in whole, without the written consent of the CMAI or SpentaMultimediaPvtLtd r e p o rt 09 CMAI’S 1st Vendor Sourcing Fair to OpenDoors in November This Fairwill give achance to the manufacturers 11 CMAI holds 25th Ivy League Meeting Thetopic for the meeting was “MidTerm/ Long TermViewon Risein Demandfor Non-EssentialProducts” 17 Fashionfor a Cause Manufacturer membersof the association donated kids garments to the Lost&Found Foundation CMAI NeWS 12 CMAI Capsule CoVer StorY 18 Wedding Season Revs Up Ahead of the marriageseason, we look at the impact of the pandemicand the choicesmade by the Indian bride INDUStrY INSIGHtS 24 "India has always been a fascination" CarolinePoiner, founder of Artisans of Fashion (AOF)shares her thoughts on collaboratingwith textile artisans in India to create collectionsfor the global market DeSIGNer p r o f I l e 32 Celebrating Indian Textiles NilaHouse, located in an aesthetically restored heritage home in Jaipur, is acentre of excellence for revitalising traditionalIndian textiles fASHIoN SpeAK 38 TurningGoainto afashion hub Pallav Ojha and Neha Asthanaabout turning the sunshinestate into afashion buzzhouse r e GUl Ar S 06 Global Threads Around-up of important news and events 44 Trade Affairs Forthcomingevents in the world of apparel 18 24 CMaI OFFICeBeaReRs Mr Rajesh Masand, President and Trustee Mr Jayesh Shah, Vice President Mr Rohit Munjal, Vice President Mr Santosh Katariya, Hon Gen Secretary Mr NaveenSainani,Jt Hon Gen Secretary Mr Ankur Gadia,Hon Treasurer Mr PareshVora,Jt Hon Treasurer Mr Premal Udani, Chairman, Board of Trustees The CLOThInGManUFaCTUReRs assOCIaTIOn OFIndIa Mumbai: 901, Naman Midtown, ‘A’ Wing, Behind Kamgar KalaKendra, Senapati Bapat Marg, Prabhadevi (West),Mumbai - 400 013. Tel:(022)2439 0909, e-mail: info@cmai.in, Website:www.cmai.in Western RegionalOffice: 512, Gultekdi, Market Yard,GateNo. 8, Pune- 411 037. Tel:(020)2426 9382 Southern RegionalOffice:No. 212A, Swiss Complex, 2nd Floor,33, RaceCourse Road, Bengaluru - 560001. Tel:(080)2225 7966, e-mail: bglr@cmai.in Northern RegionalOffice: 2/44, Old Rajinder Nagar,New Delhi- 110 060. Tel:(011)4503 2885, e-mail: delhi@cmai.in eXeCUTIVePUBLIsheR Maneck Davar SPENTAMULTIMEDIAPVT LTD edITORIaL Assistant Editor JulieSam desIGn ArtDirector YogitaIyer Digital Imaging NinadJadhav CIRCULaTIOn &sUBsCRIPTIOn Bhairavnath Sutar: 9892063731 circulation@spentamultimedia.com adMInIsTRaTIOn Senior VicePresident BobbyDaniel MaRkeTInG Director Marketing &SalesGeetu Rai Sudhir ValvaraMob: 9821215361 Sachin DesaiMob: 9820425612 Mumbai - Tel:2481 1044 Vijay Bhagat - Mob: 9871271219 New Delhi- Tel:4669 9999 M Selvaraj/Paneer Selvam- Chennai Sandeep Kumar Mob: 9886870671 Bengaluru - Tel:4161 8966 Pulak Ghosh Mob: 9831342496 Kolkata - Tel:4073 5025 design, editorialandPrinting spenta MultimediaPvtLtd PeninsulaSpenta, Mathuradas Mill Compound, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai - 400 013. Tel:(022)2481 1010 Fax:(022)2481 1021. E-mail: ho@spentamultimedia.com Send inyour ideas and contributions to apparel.spenta@gmail.com OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF THE CLOTHING MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATIONOF INDIA VOL.41-ISSUE11 NOVEMBER 2021 WEDDING SEASON REVS UP Celebrating Indian Textiles Nila House is revitalising traditional textiles “India has always been a fascination” An interview withCaroline Palmer, founder,Artisans of Fashion F o llo w u s o n www.face b o o k.co m/cmaiap p are l 38C OV E RCREDIT BRanD:BhaVyaCOllECTIOn BylalIT DalmIa
MaRkeT WaTCh 6 I APPAREL I November 2021 @Shutterstock.co m @Shutterstock.co m @Shutterstock.co m Over 100 global leaders at Glasgow pledge to end deforestation by 2030 Over100 global leadersfrom countries accounting for more than 85 per cent of the world’s forests havepledged to stop and reverse deforestation and land degradation by 2030 at the Glasgow Leaders’ Declaration on Forestsand Land Use.Thepledge is underpinnedby closeto $20 billionin public and private funds to invest in protecting and restoring forests. Thejoint statement at the COP26 climate talks in Scotland’sGlasgow will cover forests totaling more than 13 million square miles. —Reuters Finland proposes clothing, shoe material labelling law to satisfy EU Finland proposed to Parliamentapiece of legislation on labelling of production material in footwear and textile products based on the European Union (EU)Market SurveillanceRegulation, whichwould specifyobligations of companiesrelated to labelling of materials. Theproposed law also enablesthe imposition of penalty payments for incorrect or deficientlabelling. TheEUalready requiresthat footwear and textile products clearlyindicatewhat material the item is made of. Akey objective of the reform is to improve consumerprotection, the press release said. It is due to come into effectas of the beginning of 2022. —Fibre2Fashion India’s GDP could grow to 10-10.5 per cent in FY22: Brickwork Ratings TheIndianeconomyhas been recovering well from the devastation caused by the second wave of the COVID-19 pandemic, and most growth indicators areperforming better on a year-on-year basis,according to Bengaluru-based Brickwork Ratings. It has revisedits gross domestic product (GDP)estimates for fiscal2021-22 to 10 per cent-10.5 per cent from 9 per cent estimated earlier.Thelevel of GDPin the economy is likelyto reachcloseto pre-COVID-19 levels in the second quarter of fiscal 2021-22, it said.“Weexpect GDP growth for Q2FY22 at 8.3 per cent (year-on- year), on the back of a 7.4 per cent contraction in Q2FY21. Thesubsequentquarters too will see recoveryif there is no resurgence of the virus in the form of athird wave,” the rating agency said. — ZeeNews
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MaRkeT WaTCh 8 I APPAREL I November 2021 KimKardashian'sSkims partnerswith Italy'sFendi for capsulecollection Kim Kardashian’sshapewear brand Skims and Italianluxury fashion house Fendi have collaborated to launch a new capsule collection. Thelimited-edition collection that bringstogether signature Fendi style codes and the aesthetic of Skims,features sculpting silhouettes,rich fabrics, bold colours and aspecial hybrid logo pattern that saturates key styles.Fendi and Skims share adesireto push boundaries, think differently and challengeconvention which is why we found so much common groundcollaborating on this collection together,” said Skims founder Kim. —TheIndianExpress Bangladesh Govt to bestow Green FactoryAwardto 15 apparel units TheBangladesh governmentwill honour30 companies, including15 garmentfirms, with the Green Factory Award for theiroutstanding contribution to savingthe environment and creating jobs, the labour ministry said recently.Prime MinisterSheikhHasina is expected to hand over the awards on December 8, 2021 to mark the celebrationof the birth centenary of Fatherof the Nation, SheikhMujibur Rahman. Theministryintroduced the award in 2020 to inspire more investment in industries but, at the same time, maintaining a green environment. — TheDaily Star CaliforniaUniversity confirms biodegradability ofAustria's Lenzing fibres Universityof California’sresearchinstitute Scripps Institution of Oceanography (SIO)has confirmed the biodegradability of Lenzingfibres. Thestudy published recently has established that wood- based cellulosicfibres biodegradein the ocean within a short period of time at the end of their life cycle, making a better alternative to fossil- based fibres. Theresearchwas the result of an independentproject trying to understandthe ‘end-of-life’ scenarios for textiles and nonwovens discarded in the environment. —Fibre2Fashion @Shutterstock.co m @Shutterstock.co m Photo Credit: instagram.com
CMAI’S 1stVendor Sourcing Fair to OpenDoorsinNovember TheAssociationis Organisingits 1st Vendor Sourcing Fair2021 on November 24-25, 2021 at Hotel Sahara Star, Opp Domestic Airport, Mumbai 400 099. Total83 Exhibitors are displaying their Products in this Fair. This is One of akind TradeShow that is being Launched to bring Manufacturers and Brands, Largeand Regional Formats and Private Labels under One Roof. This Fairwill give a chance to manufacturers to directlyinteract and work with sourcing specialists from around the Countryto delivertheir customers more responsibly.The Exhibitors can also showcase their Expertise, Skill set, DesignSensibilities to Private Labels and Brand Owners. This Platformis also to establish relationship with sourcing specialists,buyers, heads of merchandising large format stores, regionallargeformat stores and international and national singlebrand retail chains.Shoppers Stop, Lifestyle, Manyavar, Jaypore,Myntra, Amazon Indiaand many more. TheDraw of Lots for Allotmentof Stalls to the Exhibitors was held on Monday, November 1, 2021 from 6.00 pm at the Office of the Association. Mr. Mukesh Jain,Chairman,Vendor Sourcing Fairaccompaniedby Mr. Jayesh Shah, Vice President and Mr. Mohan Sadhwani, Executive Director, conducted the Function. The Stall Numbers allotted to the Exhibitors were Uploaded on the CMAI’s OfficialWebsite- www. cmai.in along with the FloorPlan,Check In - Check Out Procedure, and Do's &Don’ts. The This FAir wiLL Give AChAnCe To The mAnUFACTUrers To work wiTh soUrCinG speCiALisTs From AroUnd TheCoUnTry To deLiver Their CUsTomers more responsiBLy. AllotmentLetterswere also sent by E-mailto all the Exhibitors individually. All Exhibitors were requested to Download the Aarogya Setu App compulsorilyon their Mobile, WearFaceMasks at all times and maintain Social Distancing at the Draw of Lot Function as per the Guidelinesgiven by the State Government prior to the above Function. RepoRT
M a rke t Watch Global fashionindustry steps up climate ambition with renewed charter The fashion industry is raising its collective ambition with updated emission reduction targets under the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action. Announced recently at the COP26 meet in Glasgow,the renewed commitments form a decarbonisation plan aligned with ParisAgreementambitionsto limit globaltemperaturerise to 1.5 degreesCelsiusabove pre-industrial levels.“This is an important milestone for the Fashion Charter,as it increasesthe ambitionlevel in an effort to alignthe industry with 1.5 degrees. It is a signalthat we need to work closely together with our peers,our supply chain,policymakersand consumers to get on the track to net-zero,” said Stefan Seidelof PUMA, who co-chairs the Fashion IndustryCharter steering committee. Furthercommitments in the updated charterinclude sourcing100 per cent of electricity from renewablesources by 2030, sourcing of environment-friendly raw materials, and phasing out coal from the supply chain by 2030 among others. —WWD.com 10 I APPAREL I November 2021 Indian textile industry to be worth $300 bnby 2025-26: Report TheIndiantextile industryis expected to be worth $300 billionby 2025-26, as the government pushes for Production-LinkedIncentive (PLI) Schemeworth $1.42 billionfor the setting up of 7 megatextile parks, and to increase the production and exports of man-made fibres. Thecountry’s domestic textile industry dropped to $75 billionin FY21 from $106 billion in FY20. Thefocus areas suggested by the report includeinvestment in value added services, e.g., marketing,warehouserentals, logistics, courier, other product fulfilment costs; apparel industry-refundof input tax credit (ITC); and quicker alignment to GSTregime, revised export incentives,and credit squeezefor SMEs adverselyimpacted exports. —BusinessToday AP Govt urges mega textile park at Kopparti Thegovernment of Andhra Pradesh(AP) has urged Uniontextiles minister Piyush Goyal to establish a megatextile park at Kopparti in YSRKadapa district of the state as part of the Central government’s plan to set up seven megatextile parks across the country. The state has also requested the ministerto set up one of the three electricalequipmentzones underthe PLIscheme.Therequestwas made by Andhra Pradeshindustries and ITMinister Mekapati Goutham Reddy duringa recent meeting with Ministerof Commerce &Industry, Consumer Affairs&Food &PublicDistribution and Textiles, Piyush Goyal.The state is also looking to have its share reduced from 20 per cent to 10 per cent in the Visakhapatnam- Chennai corridor, according to media reports. —TheHans India @Shutterstock.co m @Shutterstock.co m @Shutterstock.co m
APPAREL I November 2021 I 11 CMAIholds 25th IVY League Meeting mr. JAin &mr. dhALL BrieFed memBers on whAT The UpCominG opporTUniTies in The GArmenT indUsTry posT Covid-19 erA CoULd Be. CMAI’s 25th IVYLeague Meeting was held on Friday,October 22, 2021 at TheOrchid Hotel, Vile Parle (East),Mumbai. TheTopic for the Meeting was “Mid Term/LongTermView on Risein Demandfor Non-Essential Products”. TheSessionwas conducted by Mr. Siddharth Jain, Partner &Headof Lifestyle Practice, India, A.T.Kearney.Consulting (India)Pvt Ltd, Gurugramaccompaniedby his Partner, Mr. Karan Dhall.Mr. Vikas Madnani, Jt Chairman,IVY League Sub Committee welcomed the Members &Introduced the Speakers. Mr. Jain &Mr. Dhall briefed Members on how the Non-Essential Products Market went down in the Covid-19 Era&what the Upcoming Opportunities in the GarmentIndustrypost Covid-19 Eracould be. This meeting helped IVYLeague Members how to grow their BusinessModule after Covid-19 Erawith the Solutions providedby the Speakers. ThePresentation/Discussion was followed by a Q&ASessionfor the benefitof the IVYLeague Members. Forty IVYLeague Members attended the Meeting which was followedby Dinner. RepoRT
CMaI CaPSULE 12 I APPAREL I November 2021 RENEWAL OF MEMBERSHIP WITH THE ASSOCIATION TheAssociationhas sent the Final Reminder dated November 10, 2021 to those Members who have not yet Renewed their Subscription for the Financial Year2020-21. Members who havenot renewed their Membership areonce againrequested to Renew their Membership before november 30, 2021. If the Renewal of the Subscription is not receivedby the Associationby then, suchMembers shallcease to be aMember of the Association from that Date. TheAssociation will be compelledto Stop Sending all information pertaining to the Tradeas well as Apparel. Anyfresh Application for Membership cannot be entertainedthereafter for aperiod of Six Months from the Date of Cessation. TheManaging Committeehas right to accept or rejectsuch an Application if receivedfor fresh Membership. Members aretherefore requested once again to kindlyRenew their Membership urgently to enablethe Associationto provide undisrupted Servicesfrom the Association. TheAssociationis also giving the Member an opportunity to avail the Benefit of Renewingthe Membership Subscription for 1/3/5 years,the Detailsof which areas under: PRIMARY Membership Period One Year - Subscription 3 Years - Subscription 5 Years - Subscription 18% GST Total Amount One Year 4,000 0 0 720 4,720 Three Year 0 10,000 0 1,800 11,800 FiveYear 0 0 16,000 2,880 18,880 ASSOCIATE, AGENT & DISTRIBUTOR MEMBER Membership Period One Year - Subscription 3 Years - Subscription 5 Years - Subscription 18% GST Total Amount One Year 3,000 0 0 540 3,540 Three Year 0 7,500 0 1,350 8,850 FiveYear 0 0 12,000 2,160 14,160 NEWS
CMaI CaPSULE APPAREL I November 2021 I 13 ORGANISATION Membership Period One Year - Subscription 3 Years - Subscription 5 Years - Subscription 18% GST Total Amount One Year 5,000 0 0 900 5,900 Three Year 0 12,500 0 2,250 14,750 Five Year 0 0 20,000 3,600 23,600 RETAILER Membership Period One Year - Subscription 3 Years - Subscription 5 Years - Subscription 18% GST Total Amount One Year 1,500 0 0 270 1,770 Three Year 0 4,000 0 720 4,720 Five Year 0 0 6,000 1,080 7,080 In case Members have any queries about the Renewal Process, pleasecontact Mr VijaySharma,Dy. Secretary on his Mobile No. 9820593780 and/or by E-mailto membership@cmai.in. CMAI’S 1ST VENDOR SOURCING FAIR (VSF) The Association is Organising its 1st Vendor Sourcing Fair 2021 on 24th & 25th November 2021 at Hotel Sahara Star, Opp Domestic Airport, Mumbai 400 099. Total 83 Exhibitors are displaying their Products in this Fair. This is One of akind TradeShow that it being Launched to bring Manufacturers and Brands, Largeand Regional Formats and Private Labels under OneRoof. This Fairwill give a chance to directly interact and work with sourcingspecialists from around the country to delivertheir customers more responsibly. TheExhibitors can also showcase their expertise,skill set, design sensibilities to private labelsad brand owners. This Platformis also to establish relationship with sourcing specialists,buyers, heads of merchandising largeformat stores, regionallargeformat stores and international and national single brand retail chains.ShoppersStop, Lifestyle, Manyavar, Jaypore,Myntra, Amazon Indiaand many more. TheDraw of Lots for Allotmentof Stalls to the Exhibitors was held on Monday, November 1, 2021 from 6 pm at the Office of the Association.Mr. Mukesh Jain, Chairman,VendorSourcing Fairaccompanied by Mr. Jayesh Shah,Vice President and Mr. Mohan Sadhwani, Executive Director, attended the Function.TheStall Numbers allotted to the Exhibitors were Uploaded on the CMAI’s OfficialWebsite - www.cmai.in along with the FloorPlan,Check In - Check Out Procedure, and Do's &Don’ts. The AllotmentLetterswere sent by E-mailto all the Exhibitors individually. Prior to the above Function,Exhibitors were requestedto Download the Aarogya Setu App compulsorily on their Mobile, WearFaceMasks at all times and maintain Social Distancingat the Draw of Lot Function as per the Guidelinesgiven by the State Government.
CMaI CaPSULE 14 I APPAREL I November 2021 CONCILIATION & ARBITRATION SUMMARY REPORT FOR THE PERIOD SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER 2021. MIS FOR THE PERIOD OF SEPT' 2021 OCT' 2021 No. of Files Amount No. of Files Amount Opening TotalCases pendingresolution 2250 r47,55,29,122 2260 r48,04,64,435 New Complaints 16 r61,25,947 32 r85,80,616 Complaints resolvedfully in the Month 6 4 AmountCollected in the Month r11,90,634 r16,35,577 TotalCases pending resolution as on month end 2260 r48,04,64,435 2288 r48,74,09,474 Current Payment 17 r7,13,084 9 r10,04,549 Post DatedCheque Received 3 r4,77,550 5 r6,31,028 AmountCollected in the Month 20 r11,90,634 14 r16,35,577 CMAI’S 25TH IVY LEAGUE MEETING CMAI’s 25th IVYLeague Meeting was held on Friday,October 22, 2021 at TheOrchid Hotel, Vile Parle (East), Mumbai. The Topic for the Meeting was “Mid Term /Long Term View on Rise in demand for non- essential Products”. TheSessionwas conducted by Mr. Siddharth Jain , Partner &Headof Lifestyle Practice, India, A.T. Kearney.Consulting (India)Pvt Ltd, Gurugramaccompaniedby his Partner Mr. Karan Dhall. Mr. Vikas Madnani, Jt Chairman,IVYLeague Sub Committee welcomed the Members &Introduced the Speakersto IVYLeague Members present Mr. Jain &Mr. Dhall briefed Members how the Non-Essential Products Market went down in the Covid-19 Era & What will be the Upcoming Opportunities in the Garment Industry post Covid-19 Era. This meeting helped IVYLeague Members how to grow their business module after Covid-19 Era with the solutions provided by the Speakers. ThePresentation/Discussion was followedby aQ&ASessionfor the benefit of the IVYLeague Members. Forty IVYLeague Members attended the meeting which was followedby Dinner.
CMaI CaPSULE APPAREL I November 2021 I 15 ACTIVITIES OF THE ASSOCIATION FOR THE MONTH OF SEPTEMBER 2021 Abrief Overview of the Activitiesof the Associationwhich the Secretariat was able to accomplish during the Month of September2021 has been sent to all Members on October 6, 2021 for the Information of Members. REPRESENTATIONS The Association sent its Representation to PMO, the Ministry of Commerce, Textiles & NITI Aayog highlighting the followingPoints : 1. The international traders and yarn exporters who are exporting our precious raw materials out of the country need to be checked. There is an attempt to project lower domestic demand for cotton and yarn so that maximum quantity can be available for export. 2. This could lead to shortages as early as February 2022 – March 2022 next year leading crisis within the Industry. 3. Wetherefore requestyou to ensure calibratedexport of cotton/cotton yarn. Saya ceiling of say 8.5% per month of last 3 years average export. 4. Along with calibration, there must be 5% Export Duty on the same. Thefarmer is already protected by MSP and he has nothing to gain or lose by the current cotton price. 5. Stock limits have been introduced for various agricultural commodities, but, cotton has been kept out of it. Stock limits must be introduced not only for cotton, but also for cotton yarn which is an industrial raw material. 6. We further request that import duty on cotton be removed. This will augment domestic supply and ensure price stability. It is noteworthy to stress here that the GarmentIndustry aloneemploys over 12 million people –a significant number of which as stated earlierare women. Together with the reported move of the GSTCouncil to increasethe GSTRateson Garments from 5% to 12% or perhaps15%, the continued high prices of raw materials suchas Cotton Yarnwill spell the death-knellof this Industry. TheAssociation submitted its plea for an urgentredressalto the above issue. TheAssociationwhile congratulatingthe Government and the Ministry of Textiles for conceptualising the Production Linked Incentive Scheme(PLIScheme) for Textiles, suggestedto build aGarment Factory of the scale that the Govt is envisaging, the Investment required will be far lower than in the Sectorsof the TextileChain . As such CMAI recommendedto the Govt to reduce the minimum investment required to Rs.25 Crores and Rs. 50 CroresONLYfor the Garment Sector. TheAssociationsent an Appeal dated November 8, 2021 to the PMO, Hon’ble Ministers of Finance, Textiles, Hon’ble State Ministers of Finance,Members of the GSTCouncil, TXC,etc. on behalf of the Textileand GarmentIndustryenclosing therewithcopies of Representations that have been submitted by several Associations,Local, Regional,and Sectorial includingCMAI. TheseAssociationshave represented the Govt on the similarlinesof the aspects, CMAI underlined and emphasized the major submissions and urged the GSTCouncil and Government to continue the existing Slabs of GSTon Textiles &Garments till such time the revisedSlabs arefinalized, and then put the entire TextileValue Chain in the Merit Rate as may be decided.
CMaI CaPSULE 16 I APPAREL I November 2021 The Southern Regional Office sent a letter dated October 23, 2021 to all the Brands, on behalf of the Ready Made Garments Manufacturers from the State of Karnataka, regarding an update on the VDA matter (VariableDearness Allowance)for 2020-21. TheSouthern Regional Office also made a Representation to the AdditionalChiefSecretary, Labour Department, Government of Karnataka on October 28, 2021 requestingthem to ensure that there is no massunemployment many uneducated and undereducated people , particularly, women who are taken on the payroll of the companies and given all statutory benefits in rural areas. MEETINGS AVirtualmeeting under the Chairmanshipof Shri Upendra Singh, Secretary (Textiles)Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India was held on 8th November 2021 to discussIssue related to Raw materials in the TextileIndustry. TheMeeting was attended by SeniorOfficials, TextileCommissioner,Representatives of CCIand other Stakeholders of the TextileIndustry. Mr. RajeshMasand, President attended the said Meeting on behalf of the Association. Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) Organised an Interactive Session on Production Linked Incentive Scheme notified for Textiles & Clothing Sector on Thursday, October 21, 2021, 11.30 am onwards on VirtualPlatform.Ernst &Young(E&Y)was the KnowledgePartner of the event. Mr RajeshMasand, President and Mr RahulMehta, ChiefMentor attended the Meeting on Virtual Platform. On this occasion, Shri Upendra PrasadSingh, IAS, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles deliveredthe Key- Note address. Shri Vijoy KumarSingh, IAS, Additional Secretary, Ministry of Textiles deliveredthe Special Address and Shri Jay Karan Singh, TradeAdvisor,Ministry of Textiles deliveredthe Concluding Remarks. The24th Meeting of the TechnicalAdvisory cum Monitoring Committee(TAMC)underAmended Technology Upgraded Fund scheme (A-TUFS)was held on 20th October 2021 under the Chairpersonship of the TextileCommissioner through Video Conference. Mr Mohan Sadhwani, Executive Directorattended the Meeting on behalf of the Association. CIRCULARS Cir No. 46/C-2 /21 dated November 1, 2021 sent to all Members in Mumbai &Maharashtra informing that the Public Health Department, Govt of Maharashtra issued Order dated October 26-28, 2021 advising Employees working in the Office and also peoplewho arevisiting the Office for work to wear Masks covering their Nose and Mouth Completely.Thesaid Orderalso stated that the Employees working in the office shouldhave completed both Dosesof Vaccinationand the Employershould collect their certificate of Vaccination. Sinceuse of Masks has been made Mandatory, they should follow the Orderstrictly and if found without Mask, is liableto pay aFineof Rs. 200/-. Theabove Orders in Marathi, Hindi &English Versionsent to the Members for their reference. Cir No. 47/ M -3/21 dated November 2, 2021 sent to all Members of the Association by e-mail enclosing therewith abrief overviewof the Activities which the Associationwas able to accomplish during the Month of October 2021. Cir No 48 &48 –A/ C-3/ 2021 dated 12th November 2021 both English and Hindi Versionsentto all Members of the Associationby E-mailinforming the Arbitration Seminar being Organisedby the Association on 23rd November 2021 between 3.00 PM &6.30 PM at YogiSabhagruh, Opp: Dadar Station, Dadar(E)Mumbai 400 014 to explain the Arbitration Process”and fairness in the dispute resolution process by Experts/Eminent Lawyer.
APPAREL I November 2021 I 17 RepoRT Fashion for aCause FewManufacturer Members of the Association generouslyDonated Kids Garments to the Lost & Found Foundation, who Organiseda Fashion Show on October 23, 2021 at RadissonMumbai, Andheri MIDC for the OrphanKids to Support and Motivate them. It was a wonderfulsight to see the Youngstersdefy their circumstances and walk the Rampfull of Confidence and Josh. This was possible only because of heartwarming gesture shown by the Kids Manufacturers. CMAI, conveyed its sincere thanksfor their support to this noble cause.
18 I APPAREL I November 2021 CoveR SToRy Wedding Season RevsUp Heer Kothari explores the impact of the pandemic and the choices made by the Indian bride Images Courtesy: Lalit Dalmia for Bhavya Collection; Qbik; Asha Gautam The KPMG 2021 report cites that the Indian wedding market is estimated at $50 billion. The figures continue to display a sharp surge in the years to follow. Those dreamy,fairy tale weddings took a devastating hit during the COVID-19 pandemic. Guest lists had to be downsized, allowing no more than 50 people at one point. While the pandemic has changed quite a few things across the industry, the modern day bride still sways towards an indulgent wedding outfit.
THE DECISIVE IMPACT In aconversation with Delhi-based designer,Lalit Dalmia,we learn, “A bride is very clear about what she wants to wear on her 'D-Day’! Right from her childhood, she’s introduced to fairytales and mythological narratives that propel herto subconsciously plan herdream outfit for her wedding day.” According to Lalit,pandemic or no pandemic, nothing can impact the bride's choice. “The wedding day is her day,and she reignsand rulesthe roost on that day!” he notes! VrindaSachdeva, founderof Qbik, echoes this sentiment.Bridal preferences have become practical without cutting out on the fanfare.Vrinda adds, “Today’s top bridal pick includes attributes like classic, timeless, traditional, value for money, and at the same time respect the craftsmanship. It’s fun meeting brides who aren’t spending oodlesof time and moneyon their outfits. They thankfully aren’t considering these outfits to be the end of the world. Theyare thinkingabout wearability and versatility which in itselfare big changes in perception. Theydon’t want super heavyattires that get dumped underthe bed and just end up consuming space for years to come.” APPAREL I November 2021 I 19 CoveR SToRy
20 I APPAREL I November 2021 CoveR SToRy THE COLOR PALETTE Onewill always find the dynamic scheme colors, weaving interesting narratives on the bridal attire. Thecolors of joy and happiness make an underlining statementin more than one way. Vrindaadds, “As a designer who tries to make collections without followingseasons, Idon’t follow color trends. Our country’s dynamic culture has so much to offer, that I’d love playing with color combinations and techniques instead.” Designersenjoydabbling with the bridal palette. Whilered takes the lead,whites, greens, yellows, pinks, and purplesare here to follow suit. Gautamadds, “Though pastel and muted shades arein, what is trending is twinning with your spouse. Thedesigns areminimalistic, and the silhouettes comprise of an eclectic blend of modern design with traditional works.” Social media and the buzz around it means brides look for outfits that make you spend a second more on the ‘gram. This is why his client’s havea very defining of the idea of their D-Day. “Purples and mauves maybethe in colours, but why not play with them? Colours such as cherry red and maroons add cadenceand opulence to the regalonsetas demandedby the occasion.” EMBROIDERY OPTIONS Thevivid and intriguingart forms of India come alive in the bridal trousseau.Gorgeous geometrical insightsto intricate floral bouquets Theimpact on fanfareplays aquintessential role in the design choices. Muted neutral tones, with minimalistic leanings, areoutfit options that most bridesprefer today. GautamGupta from Asha Gautam, says, “The downsizing of weddings has a great impact on the fashion industry. In the industry, designers who’re only working on bridal wear or ethnic wear havesuffered a colossalloss.Theproduction of ethnic Indianwear, has hit the ‘pause mode’ due to the pandemic, and implementationof social distancing. Despite this weddings do take place, but the fanfareis greatly tonned down.” GorGeoUs GeomeTriCAL insiGhTs To inTriCATe FLorAL BoUqUeTs ThAThAve Been AroUnd For yeArs mArk An emphATiC presenCe on The BridAL ATTire.
that have been around for years,mark an emphatic presence on the bridal attire. However, in recenttimes, the bridal lehengaadorns an important aspect of her life by highlightinga narrative on her special day. Lalittakes pride in replicatingthese narratives. He goes on to add, “Those dreamyfairy-tales of kings and queens, and celestial gods and goddesses maketheir way into the bridal lehenga. Thebride today wears her essenceon hersleeve on her D-day.” APPAREL I November 2021 I 21 CoveR SToRy
22 I APPAREL I November 2021 CoveR SToRy Vrindahas been blendingtraditional weaves with defining embroidery patterns to set the bride apart. Vrindaadds, “Since 2019, we havebeen working with evergreen fabrics like Ikat weaves and Kashmiri embroidery.This results in ariot of colours, that looks extremelyrich and luxurious.In a nutshell,the garment is well thought out and comprises an eclectic mix of patterns and designs that make adeifying moment on the bride’s D-Day.Wealso take pride in exploring dye techniquessuch as batik and bandhej, introducing them to our signature drapes and styles.” Gautam is smitten by the regal weaves of Benaras and the gorgeous bandhej patterns. “The benarasiand bandhej weave form an intrinsic part of the Indianculture. The amalgamation of rich gold threads, gorgeous traditional zardosi embroidery coupled with colours of the dyes from bandhej, make for abrilliant combination. Thewonderful amalgamation of these elementswill lead to trends that areinimitable and will never go out of fashion at the same time.” The AmALGAmATion oF riCh GoLd ThreAds, GTrAdiTionAL zArdosi emBroidery CoUpLed wiTh CoLoUrs oF The dyes From BAndheJ, mAke For A BriLLiAnT ComBinATion."
APPAREL I November 2021 I 23 CoveR SToRy THE STYLE STATEMENT Accessorising the bridal attire correctly is just as important. Onecannot miss out on the know-hows of accessorising the attire. Gautamsays, “Try to keep your jewelry simple and minimalwith printed patterns. Tryopting for a traditional potli bag or clutch bag that’s finished with elementsof tradition. Thejewelry options can be stubby tweaked whereby the bride can choose to havestatement earrings or astatementring to complete the look.” Lalitgoes on to state, “Plunging necklines are still in vogue.This can be suitablyfinished with abroad choker.” Vrindaof Qbik adds, “The heirloom pieces, however heavyor light, will never run their course! It doesn’t only add to the emotional factor,but adds to the oomph.” TheIndianbridal attire in itselfis a platform to showcase the myriad culturalnuances of India. Eventhough the artisanal ecosystem is unorganised,it rests on the designer’s shoulders to creativelyelevatethe stanceof our mesmerising handlooms and artisanal output, by creatively staging the creations. No pandemiccan ever affectthe course of the big fat Indianwedding or the preferences of the bride. It's only about how creative a designer can get about helping herput herbest foot forward on her D-Day.
in TeRvieW WHAT DREW YOU TO THE TExTILE AND FASHION INDUSTRY? Igrew up in the textile/fashion industry in Australiaso textiles havealways been a big part of my life. Thebusiness was a third generation textile import business,mainly importing from Britain and Europe until my father inherited the business. He started to import from other parts of the world includingIndia. Many years and many stories later,Idecided to discoverIndiaand hertextile treasuresfor myself. WHAT IS YOUR IMPRESSION OF INDIAN TExTILES? Indiahas always been afascination,ever since Ican remember.With such arich and diverse culture, my travels throughout Indiaonly enhanced my passion for 24 I APPAREL I November 2021 "INDIAHAS ALWAYSBEENA FASCINATION" Brinda Gill talks to Caroline Poiner, founder of the social enterprise Artisans of Fashion (AOF)and business enterprise Cloth &Co, based in Sydney, Australia, shares her thoughts on collaborating with textile artisans in India to create collections for the global market Photographs Courtesy: Artisans of Fashion (AOF)
in TeRvieW textiles and interest in the artisanal techniques. There is a strong connection with Indiaand the Australianfashion industry, but this was mainly through export houses. This relationship was somethingIwas keen to explore: how Icould connect the designer and the artisan to co- create,open a designer's eyesto this incredible world of handcrafted textiles.Tome, it was an opportunity for designers and craftspeople to gain an understanding of each other’s skills and create something truly authentic. WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO ESTABLISH ARTISANS OF FASHION (AOF)? Artisans of Fashion (https://www. artisansoffashion.com) started as apassion project in 2012. Idecided to immersemyself in India; traveling into villagesand communities tounderstand the culture, the traditions and the techniques.It was throughthis understanding that Isaw the opportunity for designers and artisans to share their knowledgeand skills as expert collaborators in the processand to bring the two worlds together. Iwanted to share this experience with designers to help them gain a better understanding in how to work with artisans APPAREL I November 2021 I 25
in TeRvieW 26 I APPAREL I November 2021 this with contemporarydesign aesthetics.It is without a doubt that many of these craft techniques and the traditional knowledge can convey sustainability practices in fashion, bringing anew perspective to the textiles and crafts of India. WHAT MADE YOU DECIDE TO WORK WITH ARTISANS IN INDIA? During my early travels some 20 years ago, Ifell in love with India, the people, ancienttraditions, art and culture and the richness and diversity of the textiles.Therewas also the concern that for many of the techniques,without making them relevant, they were at the risk of being completely lost. Indiais renowned for the multitude of craft practices that aretraditionally rooted in asustainable approach with natural fibres and regenerativepractices, providing a sound argument for exploring the possibilitiesas part as equalpartnersand to create somethingwith meaningful. Twoyears later,Ifounded Cloth &Co. (https:// clothandco.co/ )with my daughter Daisy,who is equallypassionate about India. Cloth &Co. was founded as acommercial venture with avery specific purpose: one where we could create asuccessful business producing high quality apparel that had sustainability, women empowermentand socialand environmental impact at the core. WHAT IS THE AIM OF AOF? AOFwas founded as a platform to bridge the gap between Westerndesigners and India’s textile artisans;educating as well as encouraging authentic, collaborative partnerships underpinned by dignity and mutual respect. Theaim is to preservethe traditionalknowledge and craft skills behindthe exquisite textiles whilst harmonising
in TeRvieW APPAREL I November 2021 I 27 of adesigner or brand's sustainability agenda. I knew from that first trip that Iwanted to make this my life’swork and somehowIwould make that happen. WHICH ARTISAN COMMUNITIES AND/ OR TExTILE TECHNIqUES HAVE YOU BEEN COLLABORATING WITH? Overthe years we have worked with artisan communities in Jaipur,Telangana,Bhuj, Varanasi,Santipurin WestBengal, Bihar and Assam (among others). Wehaveworked with textile artisans,from amultitude of regions, producing arange of fabrics with diverseand distinctive regionaltechniques,generally made withbeautiful natural fibres.All of the regions were selected based on techniques that aligned with designers’ interestsas well as the accessibility and communication to support their capacity for asuccessful and sustainable partnership.This along with the relationships that Iformed with artisan communitiesover the past decade. Aregion Ihavebecomeincreasinglyinterested in is Assam,after an intensivetrip visitingweaving clusters in Bodoland under apublic diplomacy initiative undertaken by the Indianand Australian Governments focusing on the export of eri silk and traditional textiles of Bodoland. For the past three or so years, Ihavebeen involved with 7WeavesSocial in Assam,working on strategic developmentand international partnerships where Ihaveplayed an active role in the development of marketing strategies and buildingrelationships for access to the global market. HOW DO YOU TYPICALLY WORK OUT DESIGNER-ARTISAN COLLABORATIONS? Weareflexible in how we work, every situation is different but our main focus is ensuring that the engagement between the designer and the artisans is apositive one where both find the entire processand outcome arewarding experience. Wesource textiles directly from artisans and presentthem to designers to give them inspiration. Theymay order exactly what
in TeRvieW 28 I APPAREL I November 2021 they see or look to develop it to better suit their requirements. Wehave done several bespoke designs where we discuss the designcomposition, the techniqueand the yarn fibre, working together with the artisan to create something new. Idesign the collections for Cloth &Co. Weproduce our organic cotton jersey collections in afactory outside Tirupur and also develop products based on the skillsets of the artisans or the locally available fibres. IS THERE — BROADLY SPEAKING — AN AUSTRALIAN AESTHETIC REGARDING GARMENTS STITCHED WITH HANDCRAFTED TExTILES? Australiais generallymore conservative and will err towards the more understated but with exports to Europeand North America, this is changing. Ultimately we still need to balance the cost and timelines. Workingwith handcrafted fabrics comes at amuch higher price than working with the massmanufactured fabrics many designers areworking with. If the designer or brand is establishedon the principlesof slow fashion and consciouslysourcingthen it is a much easier transition; for established designers and brands already in the ‘system’, pricing and timing can be an issue. However, with the urgent need to address the climate crisis and sustainability agenda, the artisan sector can play a powerful role and provide amotivation tochange their ways. So to answer this question— there are parallelsbetween the contemporaryIndianand the Australianaestheticwith all the beautiful lightweight natural fibre fabrics, particularlythe gorgeouscottons, kalacotton and khadi. There is afascinationand growing appreciationfor the craft details,particularly the story telling and provenance play asignificantrole in the consumer's perception of a garment. Themore peopleunderstand craftsmanship,the more they will spend on a garment.
in TeRvieW APPAREL I November 2021 I 29 COULD YOU TELL US ONE OR TWO COLLABORATIONS OF AOF THAT WERE PARTICULARLY FULFILLING? Everyinteraction is interesting and meaningfulbut the ones that aremost fulfilling arewhen there is on-going work between a designer and artisan group. For several collections we worked with asmallgroup of bandhej artisans for Australian designer KITXthat was facilitated by a young couple in Bhuj who were incrediblewith their understanding of the need-setsand their ability to deliver. Ikat weaves havebeen afavourite for several designers.we havealong term partnership with weavers in Telanganawho have been producing for us for many years. WHAT ARE THE CHALLENGES OF RUNNING SUCH AN INITIATIVE? There aremany challengeswhich are usually founded in miscommunication and lackof understanding.First, Ilike to ensure that the designer or brand’smotivationsfor working with artisans aregenuine. Also that they respect the integrity of the artisans and the techniques and want to collaborate in atruly authenticway. And of course, that the artisans will be credited and fairly compensated. Workingin this sector comes with challenges but after more than a decade Ihavebecome much better at pre-empting. Wehave very clear expectationswhen it comesto timeframes, payments and quality.Wearevery upfront when we enter into an agreement; despite it being a collaborative approach, it needs to be commercially viableto be sustainable so we explainthe implications of loss on both sides. We run throughthese details several times at each stage of the processand we are consistent in our approach. Trustis everything; this applies to everyone we work with. Ialso havean employee on the ground in Delhi,who has worked with me for almostsix years. Sheknows how we work for both Cloth &Co. and AOFand upholds our principles. This helps when there arelanguage barriers. DO YOU FEEL THERE IS POTENTIAL FOR DESIGNERS FROM ABROAD TO COLLABORATE WITH INDIAN TExTILE ARTISANS? Absolutely,Ibelievethat this will continueto grow, particularly with the new generation of designers and couture houses who place artisanal skills and cultural integrity at the heart of their brand philosophy. Indiais well-positioned to provide end-to-end apparel solutions, incorporating artisanal skills throughout the process. Thedemand for this will continue to grow with technology and the increasing number of entrepreneurs in the sector, traceability, transparency,and sustainability front of mind. DO YOU ASSIST IN THE PRODUCTION OF THE STITCHED GARMENTS? Whenworking with artisans,it is desirable to produce the garmentsin Indiaas opposed to other global production hubs like Chinaor Indonesiato minimisethe carbon footprint. Alternatively,production will take placein Australia, depending on the volumesand the nature of the designer or brand. Australia’s manufacturing has been predominantly offshore for many years now. There is a big push to localise manufacturing but for sustainable and artisanal textiles, Indiais our greatest source.
in TeRvieW 30 I APPAREL I November 2021 COULD YOU TELL US ABOUT ANY RECENT PROjECTS IN INDIA UNDERTAKEN DURING THE PANDEMIC. Workhas been on-going despite the pandemic. Cloth &Co. has been working on the entire summer collection and in some cases where longer lead times arerequired we aredeveloping our winter range; our partners in Indiahave been amazingin ensuring we get our stock delivered in time. Wehad to improvise with sampling, pre- ordering our organic cotton and shift our timelines but with clear communication and understanding of expectations we havecome through successfully.For AOF,we have also managed to keep up orders and collaborations with several artisan groupsensuring continuity of income. Wehave connected with anumber of European designers who aredeveloping designs with us through which we see a lot of potential. TELL US ABOUT YOUR FUTURE INITIATIVES. Thepandemic has highlightedthe need for us to diversify and expand our offer so we have been working on new developmentsand partnerships for the International marketincluding some more accessible eri silk from 7 Weaves,are generative cotton farm project, hemp and kalacotton. We see opportunities for hand knits, tie-dye and hand print techniquesso finding some versatilecloth and yarns is imperative. COULD YOU SHARE YOUR OBSERVATIONS ON WORKING IN INDIA? There is a new generation of Indianentrepreneurs, many who havegrown up in the artisan sector and doing great work incommunication and utilisingtechnology; however, Istill believe there is agap when it comesto collaborative work. Thecultural nuances, the design aesthetic, colour palettes and qualityexpectations all requiremanagement. Havingtrusted partners or working with an organisationlike AOF with enough expertise and agood network of partners to provide the support your business needs takes the pressureoff the relationship and ensures greater success. It is the trust in the relationship, the high level of communication and knowing the boundaries and expectations on both sides.There arecultural differences and expectations that with alack of understanding can easily be the difference between an enriching and rewarding experience and disappointment or tremendous financial loss. Indiandesigners havethe great privilege of not only havinga deep understandingof the artisan culture but also access to the plethora of artisan techniques across the board and the ability to sit with artisans and develop their designs in atruly collaborative way. This is one of the challenges that Australiandesigners and brands face when it comes to the more distinct and elaborate developments,it’s anotherworld that we don’t really havethe opportunity to enter.My hope is that with more designers engaging with AOFand with artisans connecting through technology, we will be able to develop more elaborate designs in the future.
901, Naman Midtown,‘A’Wing, BehindKamgar KalaKendra, Senapati Bapat Marg, Prabhadevi (West), Mumbai-400 013. Tel.:+91 22 2439 0909 I Email :info@cmai.in, social@cmai.in I Website :www.cmai.in
FeaTURe 32 I APPAREL I November 2021 Celebrating IndianTextiles Nila House, located in an aesthetically restored heritage home in Jaipur, is a centre of excellence for revitalising traditional Indian textiles. Brinda Gill writes Images Courtesy: Nila House Jaipur,the capital of Rajasthan,effortlessly charmsthe visitorwith its formidable forts; regalpalaces;majesticmonuments; museumsof prized art, craft, textile and culturalcentres;delicious cuisine;wonderful shopping; colourfulfestivals; and the gracious hospitality of its residents. Theplanned city was founded in 1727, by Maharaja Sawai Jai SinghII(reign 1699–1743) who was apatron of architecture,arts and crafts.
APPAREL I November 2021 I 33 FeaTURe NILA HOUSE Textilelovers visiting Jaipur can indulge in a memorable array of experiences from shopping at colourful bazaarswith a choice of handmade textiles to viewing exquisite crafts, arts, new and vintage textiles and attire at galleries, cultural centres,museums, monuments,and heritage and palace hotels. Oneof the newest experiences in the city’s craft landscape is the lovelyNila House — a restored and revitalised heritage home — now a centre for celebrating handmade Indian textiles. “Lady Bamford Foundation was founded in 2016 by Lady CaroleBamford,a patron of handmade crafts and textiles,and organic farming and products, as aCSRinitiative of JC Bamford (JCB)IndiaLimited. JCB has remainedcommitted to Indiafor more than three decadesand its CSRprograms have worked on development initiatives with afocus on disadvantaged communitiesaround JCB factories in India. Nila House, which is part of TheLady BamfordFoundation, was establishedin 2016 to furtherthis mandate with afocus on the artisan communities of India”says AnuradhaSingh, Head, Nila House. A DREAM COME TRUE Creating Nila House was the realisation of a 25-yearold dreamof Lady CaroleBamford, who travelled to Indiadecades ago to know the country and study meditation. She met with artisans;observed theirskills;and deeply appreciatedtheir hand work, hand-spun and hand-wovenfabrics. Her experiences left her with awish to establish a centreof excellence to promote Indiancrafts and textiles,for peopleto come and see what can be done in India. And Nila Houseis a result of that wish. Keen to restore an old structure (to give an existing building a new lease of life rather than havinga new buildingconstructed), LBFhad a stately single-storey bungalow, built in the 1950s in Jaipur’s C-Scheme,restored. Architect Bijoy Jain and his team worked on the project (2017-
34 I APPAREL I November 2021 FeaTURe AIM OF NILA HOUSE “The work on Nila Housecommenced in 2016 before the physical spacewas ready.Theteam travelled to meet with artisans,artists, designers and natural dyers with an aim to showcase to the world what is possiblein Indiawith hand-spun yarns, hand-woven fabrics and natural dyes”, says Anuradha. Nila Houseopened its doors in October 2019 with an inauguralcollaborative collection with well-known UK-based designer Anna Valentine, who engaged with artisans working with natural dyes and shiborito work on the designer garments. Once Nila House opened, the team supported farmers cultivating indigenous cotton, having this cotton transported to spinners and subsequently to natural dyers and handloom weavers, thus 2019), using traditional materials and techniques, to create an elegant centreexuding spaceand serenityin its airy,white-painted rooms and open- to-sky inner courtyard. Thebuildinghas dedicated spaces for workrooms (for hand-spinning,block-printing, natural dyeing),workshops (inrooms around the innercourtyard),exhibitions,an archive (with swatchesof undyed and naturally dyed handwoven textiles of different counts with emphasis on handwoven fabrics with handspun yarns), alibrary,a shop, and anannexe for artist residencies. Nila House opened in October 2019, and has since been avenue for exhibitionsand workshops; aspace for artisans to practise their craft; and a centrefor artisan-designer collaborations, and other like-minded individuals. The TeAmTrAveLLed To meeT wiTh ArTisAns, ArTisTs, desiGners And nATUrAL dyers wiTh An AimTo howCAse whAT is possiBLe in indiA wiTh hAnd- spUn yArns
APPAREL I November 2021 I 35 FeaTURe creatinga farm-to-fabric value chain.This chain is furtherextended, by havinggarments stitched at smallunits and training women to stitch garments so that afarm to finished garmentvalue chain is established. All these effortshave created the bedrock of Nila House’sobjectivesof celebrating and preserving India’srich heritage of traditional textiles;initiating conversationswith artisans from different communities specially hand- spinners,hand loom weavers, and natural dyers; and creating aplatform and space for creative exchange and collaborations. INDIGO As the name Nila — meaningblue — suggests, Nila Houseis focused on working with natural indigo dye, a dye that has been historically part of the palette of Indianartisans (asthe plant is indigenous to Indiaand artisans havelong obtained beautiful tones of indigo for dyeing yarns and textiles from it). Nila House has worked with artisans to explore motifs and patterns that can be block-printed; yarns and cloth that can be dyed with natural indigo; and textiles that can be embroidered with yarn dyed with natural indigo. Nila Houseis also working with other natural dyes for theirbeauty, their attributes and their associations with Indian culture, beliefs and textiles. Thoughindigo has long grown in India, introduction of synthetic dyes in the 19th century (and other factors) forced the cultivationof indigo to decline.In this context, Nila House is supporting farmers in cultivatingindigo and encouraging dyers to work with it. Anuradha explains, “In linewith Nila’s greater vision of reintroducing natural dyes into the craft ecosystem of India, particularly natural indigo, we areencouraging and supporting artisan communities to cultivateindigo, extract it and furtherhelp set up and maintain natural indigo vats. Nila is also growing indigo to document
36 I APPAREL I November 2021 FeaTURe and experiment — harvest and extraction — from seed to dye. Our aim is to collaborate with traditional artisans to combinetheir extensive knowledge of age-old-dyeing traditions with the researchcapabilitiesof our team." INTERACTIONS AND ENGAGEMENTS Though the Covid-19-related pandemic and lockdowns within afew months of Nila House’s inception led to slowingdown of activities,the team continued to organise programs, workshops and exhibitions— at the premisesand virtually — as possible within the parameters of the prevailing situation. Theteam connected with artisans (working with natural dyes, hand-spinning of yarn, hand-weaving), farmers (growing natural indigo and indigenous cotton) and like-minded NGOs (Avani,Antaranand Khamir) to engagewith artisans, offer support, and conduct up-skilling programmes and trainings. Theteam organised NavrangChallenge,an onlinecompetition (to create handcrafted posters using textile techniques), for artisans on the theme of building awarenessabout important issues; hosted RevisitingTraditions,an exhibition wherein five artisans from Kutch used natural indigo as acolour of expression and identity to create textiles representative of their traditional skills (hand-spinning,hand-weaving,dyeing, resist-dyeing); and created an onlinepresence for the products of Nila House. An exhibition, Legacy of Textiles, displayed the private collection of textiles of Shri Brij Bhasin, ex-IPS officerdeputed to the Ministry of Textiles, who has apassion for handmade textiles and has collected handmade textiles for The TeAmorGAnized nAvrAnG ChALLenGe An onLine CompeTiTion For ArTisAns on The Theme oF BUiLdinG AwAreness ABoUTimporTAnT issUes
APPAREL I November 2021 I 37 FeaTURe over 40 years. “The aim of the exhibitionis for visitors to study the beauty of handmade Indian textiles and understand how traditionalcraft can inspire innovation and can be translated into a contemporary format for the consumerof today,” says Anuradha During the lockdown Nila Houseworked with hand-spinners in Govindgarh, Rajasthanand with ground support from Khamirin Kutch, Gujarat. “The team identified older women hand-spinners in Govindgarh and Kutch, working with them to enhancetheirskills.Further, these women who had the traditional knowledge to spin were asked to train younger women in theirlocal community to hand-spin local cotton. Nila House has pledged to purchase all the hand-spun yarn during these interactionsand trainings with the local community spinners.This initiative also supported our mandate to empower our women artisans and support incomegeneration through employable skills,” adds Anuradha. NILA CONNECT Nila Houseis buildingNila Connect, a directory of artisans,social enterprises and independent brands, who create high-quality handmade textiles and crafts, across India. This directory is uploaded on the Nila Housesite and will be continually updated. Theinitiative conveys the effortsof Nila House to create a network of artisans,and for textile and craft lovers as well as customers to connect with artisans directly in a spirit of sharing and collaboration. Buildingon the activities held since its inception, Nila Houseaimsto continueto provide acreative and intellectual space for artisans, designers,craft and textile lovers, and visitors, and to help drive and contribute to the effortsof handmade and sustainability in India. Nila House demonstrates the possibilities of exploringIndian textiles and textile techniquesand how these centuries-old techniques can be mastered to create stylish apparel and accessories with an internationalappeal.
FaShion Speak Turning Goa into a fashionhub Meher Castelino speaks to Pallav Ojha and Neha Asthana about turning the sunshine state into a fashion buzzhouse Photo courtesy: Pallavi Ojha
Fashion speak APPAREL I November 2021 I 39 Thelate WendellRodricks turned the beach resortstate Goa into an haute fashion destination in 1996, when he openedthe first designer store in Panjim.Since then, Indiandesigners have flocked to this holiday state sellingtheirfashion stories to the locales as well as the international buyers. In 2018, two fashion mavericks, co-founders, PallavOjha,CEOand Neha Asthana, Headof Fashion of COMO DesignersCollective opened its doors in Goa and turned the state into a one-stop shopping centre for fashionistas.With two successful branches of the store in Goa, and one in Nepalretailing over hundred national and internationalbrands, it was but natural that Pallav Ojhawould bring back to Goa, the much loved WendellRodrickslabel, which was silent after the designer’s untimely passing away in February 2020. WENDELL RODRICKS FASHION CONTRIBUTION PallavOjhaand Neha Asthanadescribed the reasonfor the WendellRodricks labellaunch and their future plans for Goa as a fashion hub. “WendellRodrickshas inspired many people and especially for abrand like us to make an impact with the idea of Indiato the world. Post his demise, his admirers felt like it was the end of an era. Wewere really happy to know Purple Style Lab’s (PSL)brand acquisitionand their desireto take the brand to the next level all over again! Weworked on the retail tie-up and business models with PSLto bring the brand back to Goa and offered it “LIVElong” once again!TheWR brand will be exclusive with us in Goa and we are working on the vision of the brand for the state.” According to the duo, the buyers loved the new SeaGlass Collection,which had agreat response
40 I APPAREL I November 2021 acrossfashion weeks and global runway platforms. Wendellworked on the notion that clothing should be comfortable like second skin. Wendellalso revived the weaving of the traditional Goan Kunbi Sari, with a two-year project involving identifying and trainingweavers in the use of sari looms.” PIONEERING EFFORTS Along with being apivotal designer who shaped contemporary design in the Indianfashion industry, Wendellwas an author, environmentalist, and a vocal advocate of all that he believed in. TheWendellRodricks SignatureStyle Keep it simple — the label’sDNAlies in creatingsilhouettes that transcend seasons, and styles you can reach for time and time again. Fused with minimaldetailing and understated eleganceand versatility is at the centreof every evenon the classicsand shoppers have loved the brand’s new positioning so far! Inspired by the ocean's greatest marvels, the SeaGlass collection features timeless styles made in handloom cotton (100’sKhadi). Manmade trash turned to treasuresby the ocean; sea glass is beautifully carved out of carelesslydiscarded glass.Thecolour palette is primarily made up of Mist White,FijiYellow, Coral Pink, Belize and Mineral Grayhues with accents of Deep SeaBlue and Dark Waters. Everypiece looks as good as it feels, and can be worn seasonafter seasonwith already-paired separates or the ones in your wardrobe. Pallavis aware the impact the late designer had. He single-handedly put the tiny Indianstate of Goa on the fashion map. He adds, “Wendell was the first person to coin the word, ‘Made in Goa’. He made the brand ‘Goa’ international
APPAREL I November 2021 I 41 WendellRodrickscreation. Carefully crafted with luxurious,fluid, and breathable fabrics, the designs bring forth Wendell’sGoan heritage and unique design aesthetic. From defying norms to making waves in the environment-friendly fashion segment,Wendellhas been known to always introduce something fresh to the massesthat cater to both menand women, with a focus on meticulouscraftsmanship and investment pieces. FUTURE PLANS FOR THE LABEL Speaking about future plans for the brand, the duo said, “Weplan to haveWRpresence acrossall our COMO stores. Wealso want to create Wendell’sexperience zone in the store with his classics,latest collection, footwear, accessory, jewellery, his written books and other memorabilia. We are constantly taking feedback from our clients across Wendell’sClassics and From deFyinG norms To mAkinG wAves in The environmenT-FriendLy FAshion seGmenT, wendeLL hAs Been known To ALwAys inTrodUCe someThinG Fresh To The mAsses ThATCATer To men And women new collection and passing the same to the WR team.Wealso wish to target the new consumers and millennialaudience, who want to live in style and panache.” FASHION RETAILING IN GOA Established in the year 2018 from GOA, COMO
Fashion speak 42 I APPAREL I November 2021 and affordability underall brand verticals. In the last three years,the store has emerged as the most desired shopping destination for affluent fashionistas as well as alarge number of youngsters looking for exclusivity along with affordability. However the enterprising duo reveals,“The market size is smallbut if you arefocussed on your target group, the volumesand numbers are very high. Thefocus is on this niche, hence we could multiply with multiple stores. Wefocus on the travellers, outsiders now turned into locals. Whenpeople areon holiday they splurge and we arethe destination store for them to get everything under one roof.” Theprice points vary from `999 to `14,999 however the sweet spot in the pricing of `5,000 –`7,000 that sellsthe most in a ratio of 70% women’s and 30% men’s wear. in The LAsTThree yeArs, The sTore hAs emerGed As The mosT desired shoppinG desTinATion For AFFLUenT FAshionisTAs As weLL As A LArGe nUmBer oF yoUnGsTers LookinG For exCLUsiviTy ALonG wiTh AFFordABiLiTy. DesignersCollective is aone-stop destination with acomplete rangeof handpicked collections from designers across the world. Theproduct categoryspans across clothing, accessory, jewellery, handbags,foot wear, skin care, gifting and other fashion essentials. Thestore believes in the philosophy of exclusivity, individuality
Fashion speak APPAREL I November 2021 I 43 HOLIDAY DESTINATION As aretail destination, Pallavfeels, “Weare cateringto travellers and people who havesettled in Goa from across the world, alot of them have made Goa theirhome. Post Covid-19, Goa has seen a huge influx from people from Tier Aand B cities settling down in Goa. Workfrom home is a great concept sitting by the beach or the poolside in Goa. Peoplehave chosen quality of life post COVID-19.This has helped us alot to makeour store the only fashion destinationstore. Wehave also started catering to local Goans now with our day wear as well as white brides.” FUTURE FASHION PLANS Thelockdown did cause problems for fashion stores all over Indiaas well as in Goa but Pallav reveals,“Wewere building! Wewere working on our strategies,our product line, designing and constructing new stores and associations and also launched our global onlineportal www. comocollective.com. Wearealso launching COMO Cafe across all our outlets, which pushes us to get a lot more footfallsas well be present in established hotelsand hospitality chains as COMO Getaway Stores as the target audience is already present in these places and want to indulge.COMO Cafe will bring the best of culinary experiences across all our outlets.” Marketing fashion in Goa means constant designer launches, open house events with closecustomers, wine and cheesesessions, designer of the month etc. at the store level.“We arevery active on our Instagram and relevant print network for advertisements and editorials,” says Neha. Commenting on the future of fashion and plans for the WendellRodrickslabel, Pallav states, “Indian fashion is more focussednow into the smallercities and destinationswhere peoplewant to be presentand seen.Weplan to take the WRbrand across all our stores. By end of the fiscal year 2021-2022, we aim to be presentacross10 new hospitality chains and luxury hotels apart from making our flagship stores in Goa and Nepal, a one-stop destination for people to indulge in fashion and culinary experiences.”
TRADE AFFAIRS 44 I APPAREL I November 2021 E C a v l e e n n d t a s r aPPaReL BRINGS YOU A QUICK LIST OF THE FORTHCOMING FAIRSAND EXPOS. @Shutterstock.co m TRade aFFaiRS DeCeMber 2021 PERFORMANCEDAYSFUNCTIONALFABRIC– 2021 december 1 to 2, 2021 PERFORMANCEDAYSissynchronised with the industry'sdeadlines makingit possiblefor designers, product, purchasingand material managersto perform sourcing. Thelatest trends and innovations in the functional fabric industryareon displayfrom more than 290 qualityexhibitors. PERFORMANCEDAYS will attract internationalmanufacturers and well-known sportswear and activeclothing brands. VenUe I MesseMünchen deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy I Munich, Germany FESPAEURASIA2021 december 2-5,2021 FESPAEurasia2021 isatrade show, presenting business opportunities, networking and sourcingfor individuals and companieswithin the screen,digital and textileprinting and signage communities.FESPA Eurasiaincludes large format digital printing, screen printing, textileprinting, signage, car wrapping, 3D printing, commercialprinting, display,LED, print and signage software, consumablesand more.A must-visit if you arean internationalprinter, designer, print buyer, retailer,interiordesigner, fashion brand or print professional,it offersthe verylatest products, innovations and informationfrom over 500 brands. VenUe I IstanbulExpo Center (IstanbulFuarMerkezi) deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I Bakırköy in Istanbul,Turkey GARTEXTEXPROCESSINDIA 2021 december 3 to 5, 2021 Gartex TexprocessIndia willshowcase products, services, and technologies related to the complete production chain.Theevent includes Garment &TextileMachinery, Trims,Accessories,Denim, Laundry Show, Digitex, Embroidery Machinery, and showcasingof various equipment. VenUe I Pragati Maidan, New Delhi deMOGRaPhy I Domestic CITy I NewDelhi INDIAITME2021 december 8 to 13, 2021 India ITMEwill offerunmatchedbusiness to exhibitors as the Indian textilesindustrywhich is set for strong growth, buoyed by strong domestic consumption as well as export demand. It will open windows to various business verticals in the form of leads, contactsinquiries on amassiveplatform. VenUe IIndia ExpositionMart deMOGRaPhy I Domestic CITy I GreaterNoida, India THE8THCHINAHOMELIFEAND MACHINEXINDIA2021 december 9 to 11, 2021 ChinaHomelife India brings together thousands of buyers and Chinesemanufacturers on acommon platform. Thisyear,ChinaHomelife India will display products incategories acrossfurniture, textile& garments,home appliances,household items, gifts and manymoresectors. Theexhibition issupported by CIIwho will organise aone-day concurrent
TRADE AFFAIRS APPAREL I November 2021 I 45 conference on how the business with India and Chinaisprogressingand avenuesfor joint ventures, cooperation etc. VenUe I BombayExhibition Centre (BEC) deMOGRaPhy I Domestic CITy I Mumbai,India INTEXSOUTHASIA2021 december 9 to 11, 2021 Intex South Asiaisthe largest international textiles sourcingshow inSouth Asia. It iscreated to fulfillthe growing demandfor innovative, smartand trendy textiles for the developing textiles and apparel industry of our region, which caters to large domestic as well as export markets. VenUe I Pragati Maidan, New Delhi deMOGRaPhy I Domestic CITy I New Delhi, India JANUArY 2022 GARMENTTECHNOLOGYEXPO- 2022 january 7, 2022 Garment TechnologyExpo’s flagshipevent, GTE, New Delhicoverssegmentsof the industry. Right from the latest technology machines to machine spares & consumablesto latest processes&systems;from raw materials to trimmings&embellishments, this event is apremier destinationfor buyers, wholesalers/dealers, manufacturers and corporate decision makers. VenUe I NSICExhibition Complex,Okhla deMOGRaPhy I Domestic CITy I NewDelhi THELONDONTEXTILEFAIR 2022 january 11 to 12, 2022 TheLondon TextileFairprovides manufacturers and their agents with the opportunity to showcasetheirproducts to the mostinfluential Britishbuyers and designers.Theshow is one of the top industryevents within the UKwith an increasing international appeal. VenUe IBusiness DesignCentre deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I London, UK PSI2022 january 11 to 13, 2022 PromoTexExpo 2022 willmarkthe fourth edition of the premier European show for promotion, sports and workwear.The expo forms part of an unparalleled internationalevent for advertising and selling, makingit possibleto bundle and displaytextile, haptic and visualcommunicationoptions under one roof. VenUe I Yetto be decided deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy I Düsseldorf,Germany PROMOTEXEXPO2022 january 11 to 13,2022 PromoTexExpo 2022 willmarkthe fouth edition of the premier European show for promotion, sports and workwear. Together with PSIand viscomDusseldorf,the expo forms part of an unparalleled internationalevent for advertisingand selling, makingit possibleto bundle and displaytextile, haptic and visualcommunicationoptions under one roof. VenUe IMesseDüsseldorf - P2 AmStaad, 40474 Düsseldorf,Germany deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I Düsseldorf,Germany
TRADE AFFAIRS 46 I APPAREL I November 2021 JUNIOSHOW2022 january 12 to 15, 2022 JUNIOSHOW,which isthe brand meetingof baby and kids apparel industry, will be organised by Tüyap Bursa FairsOrganization Incand Bursa Chamber of Commerceand Industry(BTSO)incooperation with Baby KidsApparel Industrialistsand Businessmen Association(BEKSİAD.Theshow will present more than 10,000 modelsinspring-summercollection between the ages of 0 - 12 at the booths, thus combining quality-oriented productionwith design. VenUe I TüyapBursa International Fairand Congress Center deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I Bursa,Turkey DHAKAINTERNATIONALTEXTILE&GARMENT MACHINERYEXHIBITION2022 january 22 to 23, 2022 DhakaInt’l Textile&Garment Machinery Exhibition is the largest-evertrade fairof its kind inBangladesh. This event willshowcase avariety of equipment,products, technologies aswell as services and information concerning all the textile &garment processingand productionaspects. VenUe I International Convention CityBashundhara (ICCB) deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I Dhaka, Bangladesh TEX-STIL2022 january 15 to 17, 2022 Tex-Stil- Vejle2022 isone of the biggest trade dair of textiles,yarns, decoration materials, sewing machines, curtains. Thisevent will be continuing for the duration of three days inVejle,Denmark. At the show, get a chanceto demonstrateand introduce mostrecent products and new developments.Purchasers can peacefully get an overview of the overallsupply and build theirinventories in the best possibleway. VenUe I DGI-huset Vejle, deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy I Vejle,Denmark APPARELSOURCINGUSA 2022 january 25 to 27, 2022 Apparel SourcingUSAisan event showcasesproduct from apparel brands, retailers, wholesalers, and independent designfirmsa dedicated sourcingmarketplacefor finding the best domestic and internationalapparel manufacturers. Apparel SourcingUSAproducts likeactivewear, denim, dresses, gloves, hats/headwear, intimates/shapewear, jewellery,knits/tops, labels,loungewear/sleepwear, outerwear/coats, pants/bottoms, polo shirts/shirting, scarves/shawls,socks/hosiery,suiting, sweaters, swimwear/resortwear, ties/ascots,T-shirtsand work wear. VenUe I Jacob K. JavitsConvention Center deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I NewYork,USA febrUArY 2022 74THNATIONALGARMENT FAIR February 1 to 3, 2022 CMAI’sIndia’sMost Popular Spring/SummerApparel TradeShow willbe held from February1 to 3, 2022 at Hotel JWMarriot MumbaiSahar,NearChhatrapati Shivaji International Airport, Andheri (East)Mumbai400 099. VenUe I HotelJ WMarriot, Mumbai Sahar deMOGRaPhy I National CITy I MUMBAI,INDIA
TRADE AFFAIRS APPAREL I November 2021 I 47 THEMOSTINSPIRINGNORDICINTERIOR& DESIGNFAIR2022 February 3 to 6, 2022 TheMost Inspiring Nordic Interior&DesignFair isaplatform to experience creative, unique and visuallystrong trend zones filledwith inspirationfor attendees and theirstore. It willprovide aplatform for attendees to explore products likelighting, sustainable products, garden and outdoor, diverse textiles,wellness, branding articles,kitchen and tabletop, homeaccessories,shop furniture,gallery, festival, fashion accessories,and much more. VenUe I MCH Messecenter Herning, Herning, Denmark deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I Herning, Denmark PROJECTLASVEGAS 2022 February 14 to 17, 2022 Representing what’s new, now, and next in men’sand women’s contemporaryapparel, footwear and accessories,PROJECTLas Vegasiswhere domestic and international buyers go to be inspiredby higher-end brands, find margin-buildingproducts from relevant mid-market labels,and connect with likemindedindustrythought leaders and fashion insiders.Through afusionof community, education, media,and experiences, PROJECT Las Vegaspropels the next season’stop trends, generates global awareness, and ultimately, drives commerce. VenUe I Las VegasConventionCenter deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I LasVegas,USA PRINTWEARANDPROMOTIONLIVE 2022 February20 to 22, 2022 Printwear and PromotionLivewillfeature around 150 suppliersfrom all sectors of the garment and product decoration market, includingaround 60 clothing brands and distributors,as well as all the majordecoration equipment and accessories supplierscoveringdirectly to garment,transfer, sublimation,screen printing, and embroidery. VenUe I National Exhibition Centre, Birmingham,UK deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I Birmingham, UK CMAI’SFABSHOW–FABRICS, ACCESSORIES&BEYOND February22 to 24, 2022 Thisone-of-a-kindtrailblazer of ashow isbeing launched by the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI)to bring the entire apparel industry, and its complete supplychainunder one roof. Thiswillbe a unique platform for all participants to showcasetheir products or services. It will facilitateanyapparel manufacturer to sourceall inputs required –from fabrics to accessories,services, and machinery and beyond. VenUe I JioWorldConvention, Centre G- block, Bandra Kurla Complex,Bandra (East),Mumbai 400051 deMOGRaPhy I National CITy I Mumbai,India For moreinformation,log on towww.fibre2fashion.com In lieu of the ongoing Global Health Emergency due to COVID-19 & travel restrictions imposed on various countries, we request you to check the actual status of the event directly with the organisers first.
Forinformationonsubscriptionand advertisingpleasecontact: 2ndFloor,PeninsulaSpenta, MathuradasMill Compound,Senapati BapatMarg, LowerParel,(West)Mumbai400013, T el.No.: +9124811010Ext No:1031/1024 circulation@spentamultimedia.com It’stimetogift yourselfagoodread. Astheysay… WHENEVER Y O UREADAG O O D MAGAZINE SOMEWHEREIN THEWORLD ADOOR OPENS T OALLOWIN MORELIGHT SEPTEMBER 2021 V 9 PA OLUME 60 ISSUE GES 38 r60 ORGANISATIONAL DESIGN AREVOLUTIONARYTRANSFORMATION T H EWINNINGF O R MU L A StéphaneJGG ir od P U T‘DESIGN’IN T OA C T IO N D rPennyPullan Subscribe Now

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Apparel november2021

  • 1. OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF THE CLOTHING MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION OF INDIA Vol. 41 - Issue 11 NoVeMBeR 2021 Wed d in g SeaSon RevS Up Celebrating indian Textiles Nila House is revitalising traditional textiles “india has always beena fascination” An interview with Caroline Palmer, founder, Artisans of Fashion Follow us on www.facebook.com/cmaiapparel
  • 2.
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  • 4. f r o m the president’s desk Help us improve Apparel. Pleasesend in your suggestions and feedback to apparel.spenta@gmail.com 2 I APPAREL I November 2021 Rajesh M asand DearFriends, After avery long time,the Apparel Industry seemedto be getting backon its track, with avery good Business seen during Diwali. Onone hand,the Pricesof YarnandFabricshavebeenincreasingonadailybasis,asalsothe other RawMaterials which areusedinManufacturing, resultinginIncrease inthePriceofthe Product.Itwill not beoutofcontextto saythatthePrices havetouched thesky. Onother hand,theGovernmenthasincreasedtheRateof GSTonthe Entire Textile Chain from 5% to 12% w.e.f.01-01-2022, this is inspite of CMAI,alongwith manyother AssociationsandTradeBodiesfrom all over Indiahave been vigorously representing to the Government and GSTCouncil not to implement this change. And it is indeedextremely disappointingthattheGSTCouncilhaschosennot to heedour pleaas thiswill leadto massiveIncreaseinPricesofallGarmentsandmoresoin Garmentswhichwere sellingatlessthan`1,000 MRP. OnNovember23,2021,CMAI will beLaunchingitsArbitrationCellat YogiSabhagruh,Mumbai.Worldover,withLawCourtsbecomingtime consumingandexpensive,Arbitrationisbecomingoneof the mostsought after remediesto settle commercialdisputes.WithanArbitration Award our Member can get aquasi-legal, validity to the Award, this will help our Members recover their Money faster which wasotherwisedifficult to recover. CMAI will also be Launching its Membership Card,which will entail Discountsto our Members atvariousDepartmentStores andBrandsshop. On November 24-25, 2021, CMAI is holding its,first Vendor SourcingFair, atHotel SaharaStar,Mumbai.ThisisonemoreinitiativebyCMAI,to provide aPlatformfor itsMembers to transactbusinesswith big BuyersandBrands. ThisPlatformwill provideopportunitiesfor Factoriesto directlyconnectwith Buyers who have potential to place Big Orders and the Buyer can connect with Factoriesfortheir Private Labels. Wewill continue in our Endeavourto serve our Members with innovative ways,whichwill benefit them,OnesuchProjectonwhich weareworking,is Bill DiscountingandCreditInsurances! WithWarmRegards,
  • 5. • • ȡ ˜ ‡ ȡ … ȡ … ȡ ȡ š ! ! CMAI ˜ ˜ Ʌ[˜ ȯ ǐ› ff€kš Ǖ ǐ ˜ ˜ ȡ È ˜ ȡ]”˜ ȯ € Ǖ †˜ ˜ ȯ Ò Ʌ ˜ ˜ ȯ ¡ Ǖ f¡ Ȱ ,ǐ ‡ ˜ ȯ ǐ ˜ ˜ ˜ ˜ ȣ˜ ȯ ˜ ȡ Û ȯ €̃ ¡ Ȫ ˜ ȯ ˜ ȡ˜ ¡ ȯ ¡ Ȱ ? CMAI ˜ ȯf € f˜ Ʌ Ȣ M/s KRRV ˜ ȯ ȡ• ˜ Ȳ € [ǐ˜ ˜ ȡ¡ , Ȱ ˜ Ȫ]˜ ˜ ȯ ]`˜ è˜ ɇǐ˜ ˜ Ȳ ˜ Ȫ ǐš € • š ˜ ˜ ˜ ȯ˜ Ʌ ]˜ ˜ ȧ ˜ ‘ ‘˜ ˜ ˜ ȯ Ȣʨ ˜ ȡ ˜ ˜ ˜ ȧ ˜ ȡ˜ Ȣ˜ ȡ ˜ Ȣ˜ Ȳ ˜ ˜ Ȣ˜ Ȫ€ _ ˜ ˜ ɇ k š ^ Û ž š ǕÛ ˜ à˜ ˜ Ȣ˜ ˜ ȯ ȡ • ˜ ȡ˜ ˜ ˜ ˜ Ȣ¡ Ȱ ʨ ˜ Ȣ ˜ ˜ ȯ j ǐ Ý ˜ ǐ ȡ˜ ȯ ˜ ˜ ȯ ˜ Ʌ˜ Ȱ ˜ ȯ¡ f Ǖ ¡ , Ȱ˜ Ȣ ˜ ˜ ȯ ˜ ǐ˜ f ¡«ȡ˜ Ȫ ˜ ȣ ˜ ˜ ȯ [ ˜ ȧ Đ ȯǐŒ Š ˜ Ȩ ˜ ȸ ˜ ȯ ˜ ȡ˜ ˜ ȡ … › ˜ ˜ ȡ ¡ Ȱ ǐ ’€˜ ȡ˜ ˜ ȡ˜ ȣ˜ ȯǐ ›f ˜ Ȳ € [ ĮȢ. Ĥ ˜ ȣ ˜ ˜ ¡ ȯ ˜ ȡ ˜ Ȩ˜ - 022-24390909, +917045626275 _ - ˜ ˜ ȯ ]˜ ˜ Ȣ - CNA@CMAI.IN
  • 6. contents m a rch 2021 09 11 APPAREL,the monthlymagazine of CMAI, Edited, Printed and Publishedby Mr. ManeckDavarat SpentaMultimediaPvtLtd, Peninsula Spenta, MathuradasMillCompound, SenapatiBapat Marg, Lower Parel (W),Mumbai- 400 013. Publishedfrom 902, Mahalaxmi Chambers, 22, Bhulabhai Desai Road, Mumbai - 400 026. Theviewsandopinionsexpressedor implied by writersinAPPARELmagazinearethose of CMAI orSpentaMultimediaPvt Ltd Unsolicited articlesandtransparenciesaresent inat theowner’srisk and thepublisher acceptsnoliabilityfor lossor damage. Material in thispublicationmaynot be reproduced, whether inpart or in whole, without the written consent of the CMAI or SpentaMultimediaPvtLtd r e p o rt 09 CMAI’S 1st Vendor Sourcing Fair to OpenDoors in November This Fairwill give achance to the manufacturers 11 CMAI holds 25th Ivy League Meeting Thetopic for the meeting was “MidTerm/ Long TermViewon Risein Demandfor Non-EssentialProducts” 17 Fashionfor a Cause Manufacturer membersof the association donated kids garments to the Lost&Found Foundation CMAI NeWS 12 CMAI Capsule CoVer StorY 18 Wedding Season Revs Up Ahead of the marriageseason, we look at the impact of the pandemicand the choicesmade by the Indian bride INDUStrY INSIGHtS 24 "India has always been a fascination" CarolinePoiner, founder of Artisans of Fashion (AOF)shares her thoughts on collaboratingwith textile artisans in India to create collectionsfor the global market DeSIGNer p r o f I l e 32 Celebrating Indian Textiles NilaHouse, located in an aesthetically restored heritage home in Jaipur, is acentre of excellence for revitalising traditionalIndian textiles fASHIoN SpeAK 38 TurningGoainto afashion hub Pallav Ojha and Neha Asthanaabout turning the sunshinestate into afashion buzzhouse r e GUl Ar S 06 Global Threads Around-up of important news and events 44 Trade Affairs Forthcomingevents in the world of apparel 18 24 CMaI OFFICeBeaReRs Mr Rajesh Masand, President and Trustee Mr Jayesh Shah, Vice President Mr Rohit Munjal, Vice President Mr Santosh Katariya, Hon Gen Secretary Mr NaveenSainani,Jt Hon Gen Secretary Mr Ankur Gadia,Hon Treasurer Mr PareshVora,Jt Hon Treasurer Mr Premal Udani, Chairman, Board of Trustees The CLOThInGManUFaCTUReRs assOCIaTIOn OFIndIa Mumbai: 901, Naman Midtown, ‘A’ Wing, Behind Kamgar KalaKendra, Senapati Bapat Marg, Prabhadevi (West),Mumbai - 400 013. Tel:(022)2439 0909, e-mail: info@cmai.in, Website:www.cmai.in Western RegionalOffice: 512, Gultekdi, Market Yard,GateNo. 8, Pune- 411 037. Tel:(020)2426 9382 Southern RegionalOffice:No. 212A, Swiss Complex, 2nd Floor,33, RaceCourse Road, Bengaluru - 560001. Tel:(080)2225 7966, e-mail: bglr@cmai.in Northern RegionalOffice: 2/44, Old Rajinder Nagar,New Delhi- 110 060. Tel:(011)4503 2885, e-mail: delhi@cmai.in eXeCUTIVePUBLIsheR Maneck Davar SPENTAMULTIMEDIAPVT LTD edITORIaL Assistant Editor JulieSam desIGn ArtDirector YogitaIyer Digital Imaging NinadJadhav CIRCULaTIOn &sUBsCRIPTIOn Bhairavnath Sutar: 9892063731 circulation@spentamultimedia.com adMInIsTRaTIOn Senior VicePresident BobbyDaniel MaRkeTInG Director Marketing &SalesGeetu Rai Sudhir ValvaraMob: 9821215361 Sachin DesaiMob: 9820425612 Mumbai - Tel:2481 1044 Vijay Bhagat - Mob: 9871271219 New Delhi- Tel:4669 9999 M Selvaraj/Paneer Selvam- Chennai Sandeep Kumar Mob: 9886870671 Bengaluru - Tel:4161 8966 Pulak Ghosh Mob: 9831342496 Kolkata - Tel:4073 5025 design, editorialandPrinting spenta MultimediaPvtLtd PeninsulaSpenta, Mathuradas Mill Compound, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai - 400 013. Tel:(022)2481 1010 Fax:(022)2481 1021. E-mail: ho@spentamultimedia.com Send inyour ideas and contributions to apparel.spenta@gmail.com OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF THE CLOTHING MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATIONOF INDIA VOL.41-ISSUE11 NOVEMBER 2021 WEDDING SEASON REVS UP Celebrating Indian Textiles Nila House is revitalising traditional textiles “India has always been a fascination” An interview withCaroline Palmer, founder,Artisans of Fashion F o llo w u s o n www.face b o o k.co m/cmaiap p are l 38C OV E RCREDIT BRanD:BhaVyaCOllECTIOn BylalIT DalmIa
  • 7.
  • 8. MaRkeT WaTCh 6 I APPAREL I November 2021 @Shutterstock.co m @Shutterstock.co m @Shutterstock.co m Over 100 global leaders at Glasgow pledge to end deforestation by 2030 Over100 global leadersfrom countries accounting for more than 85 per cent of the world’s forests havepledged to stop and reverse deforestation and land degradation by 2030 at the Glasgow Leaders’ Declaration on Forestsand Land Use.Thepledge is underpinnedby closeto $20 billionin public and private funds to invest in protecting and restoring forests. Thejoint statement at the COP26 climate talks in Scotland’sGlasgow will cover forests totaling more than 13 million square miles. —Reuters Finland proposes clothing, shoe material labelling law to satisfy EU Finland proposed to Parliamentapiece of legislation on labelling of production material in footwear and textile products based on the European Union (EU)Market SurveillanceRegulation, whichwould specifyobligations of companiesrelated to labelling of materials. Theproposed law also enablesthe imposition of penalty payments for incorrect or deficientlabelling. TheEUalready requiresthat footwear and textile products clearlyindicatewhat material the item is made of. Akey objective of the reform is to improve consumerprotection, the press release said. It is due to come into effectas of the beginning of 2022. —Fibre2Fashion India’s GDP could grow to 10-10.5 per cent in FY22: Brickwork Ratings TheIndianeconomyhas been recovering well from the devastation caused by the second wave of the COVID-19 pandemic, and most growth indicators areperforming better on a year-on-year basis,according to Bengaluru-based Brickwork Ratings. It has revisedits gross domestic product (GDP)estimates for fiscal2021-22 to 10 per cent-10.5 per cent from 9 per cent estimated earlier.Thelevel of GDPin the economy is likelyto reachcloseto pre-COVID-19 levels in the second quarter of fiscal 2021-22, it said.“Weexpect GDP growth for Q2FY22 at 8.3 per cent (year-on- year), on the back of a 7.4 per cent contraction in Q2FY21. Thesubsequentquarters too will see recoveryif there is no resurgence of the virus in the form of athird wave,” the rating agency said. — ZeeNews
  • 9. Webelieve that your brand and services are best served by reaching out regularly to your stakeholders. Hence, custom publications to us are Relationship Publishing, that effectively strengthen your brand with your customers. With a portfolio of over 35 custom magazines, 7 consumer titles, 3 event properties, a state-of-the-art printing press, more than 80 clients for web-based publishing solutions and a growing list of clients for content services and book publishing, Spenta Multimedia Pvt Ltd has an average monthly readership of over 5.5 million across the genres of travel, retail, lifestyle, beauty, pharma, finance and management. Contact us to see how you and your brand can grow with India’s leading media house. Spenta Multimedia wins four awards at the 57th (ABCI) Association of Business Communicators of India-Annual Awards 2017.
  • 10. MaRkeT WaTCh 8 I APPAREL I November 2021 KimKardashian'sSkims partnerswith Italy'sFendi for capsulecollection Kim Kardashian’sshapewear brand Skims and Italianluxury fashion house Fendi have collaborated to launch a new capsule collection. Thelimited-edition collection that bringstogether signature Fendi style codes and the aesthetic of Skims,features sculpting silhouettes,rich fabrics, bold colours and aspecial hybrid logo pattern that saturates key styles.Fendi and Skims share adesireto push boundaries, think differently and challengeconvention which is why we found so much common groundcollaborating on this collection together,” said Skims founder Kim. —TheIndianExpress Bangladesh Govt to bestow Green FactoryAwardto 15 apparel units TheBangladesh governmentwill honour30 companies, including15 garmentfirms, with the Green Factory Award for theiroutstanding contribution to savingthe environment and creating jobs, the labour ministry said recently.Prime MinisterSheikhHasina is expected to hand over the awards on December 8, 2021 to mark the celebrationof the birth centenary of Fatherof the Nation, SheikhMujibur Rahman. Theministryintroduced the award in 2020 to inspire more investment in industries but, at the same time, maintaining a green environment. — TheDaily Star CaliforniaUniversity confirms biodegradability ofAustria's Lenzing fibres Universityof California’sresearchinstitute Scripps Institution of Oceanography (SIO)has confirmed the biodegradability of Lenzingfibres. Thestudy published recently has established that wood- based cellulosicfibres biodegradein the ocean within a short period of time at the end of their life cycle, making a better alternative to fossil- based fibres. Theresearchwas the result of an independentproject trying to understandthe ‘end-of-life’ scenarios for textiles and nonwovens discarded in the environment. —Fibre2Fashion @Shutterstock.co m @Shutterstock.co m Photo Credit: instagram.com
  • 11. CMAI’S 1stVendor Sourcing Fair to OpenDoorsinNovember TheAssociationis Organisingits 1st Vendor Sourcing Fair2021 on November 24-25, 2021 at Hotel Sahara Star, Opp Domestic Airport, Mumbai 400 099. Total83 Exhibitors are displaying their Products in this Fair. This is One of akind TradeShow that is being Launched to bring Manufacturers and Brands, Largeand Regional Formats and Private Labels under One Roof. This Fairwill give a chance to manufacturers to directlyinteract and work with sourcing specialists from around the Countryto delivertheir customers more responsibly.The Exhibitors can also showcase their Expertise, Skill set, DesignSensibilities to Private Labels and Brand Owners. This Platformis also to establish relationship with sourcing specialists,buyers, heads of merchandising large format stores, regionallargeformat stores and international and national singlebrand retail chains.Shoppers Stop, Lifestyle, Manyavar, Jaypore,Myntra, Amazon Indiaand many more. TheDraw of Lots for Allotmentof Stalls to the Exhibitors was held on Monday, November 1, 2021 from 6.00 pm at the Office of the Association. Mr. Mukesh Jain,Chairman,Vendor Sourcing Fairaccompaniedby Mr. Jayesh Shah, Vice President and Mr. Mohan Sadhwani, Executive Director, conducted the Function. The Stall Numbers allotted to the Exhibitors were Uploaded on the CMAI’s OfficialWebsite- www. cmai.in along with the FloorPlan,Check In - Check Out Procedure, and Do's &Don’ts. The This FAir wiLL Give AChAnCe To The mAnUFACTUrers To work wiTh soUrCinG speCiALisTs From AroUnd TheCoUnTry To deLiver Their CUsTomers more responsiBLy. AllotmentLetterswere also sent by E-mailto all the Exhibitors individually. All Exhibitors were requested to Download the Aarogya Setu App compulsorilyon their Mobile, WearFaceMasks at all times and maintain Social Distancing at the Draw of Lot Function as per the Guidelinesgiven by the State Government prior to the above Function. RepoRT
  • 12. M a rke t Watch Global fashionindustry steps up climate ambition with renewed charter The fashion industry is raising its collective ambition with updated emission reduction targets under the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action. Announced recently at the COP26 meet in Glasgow,the renewed commitments form a decarbonisation plan aligned with ParisAgreementambitionsto limit globaltemperaturerise to 1.5 degreesCelsiusabove pre-industrial levels.“This is an important milestone for the Fashion Charter,as it increasesthe ambitionlevel in an effort to alignthe industry with 1.5 degrees. It is a signalthat we need to work closely together with our peers,our supply chain,policymakersand consumers to get on the track to net-zero,” said Stefan Seidelof PUMA, who co-chairs the Fashion IndustryCharter steering committee. Furthercommitments in the updated charterinclude sourcing100 per cent of electricity from renewablesources by 2030, sourcing of environment-friendly raw materials, and phasing out coal from the supply chain by 2030 among others. —WWD.com 10 I APPAREL I November 2021 Indian textile industry to be worth $300 bnby 2025-26: Report TheIndiantextile industryis expected to be worth $300 billionby 2025-26, as the government pushes for Production-LinkedIncentive (PLI) Schemeworth $1.42 billionfor the setting up of 7 megatextile parks, and to increase the production and exports of man-made fibres. Thecountry’s domestic textile industry dropped to $75 billionin FY21 from $106 billion in FY20. Thefocus areas suggested by the report includeinvestment in value added services, e.g., marketing,warehouserentals, logistics, courier, other product fulfilment costs; apparel industry-refundof input tax credit (ITC); and quicker alignment to GSTregime, revised export incentives,and credit squeezefor SMEs adverselyimpacted exports. —BusinessToday AP Govt urges mega textile park at Kopparti Thegovernment of Andhra Pradesh(AP) has urged Uniontextiles minister Piyush Goyal to establish a megatextile park at Kopparti in YSRKadapa district of the state as part of the Central government’s plan to set up seven megatextile parks across the country. The state has also requested the ministerto set up one of the three electricalequipmentzones underthe PLIscheme.Therequestwas made by Andhra Pradeshindustries and ITMinister Mekapati Goutham Reddy duringa recent meeting with Ministerof Commerce &Industry, Consumer Affairs&Food &PublicDistribution and Textiles, Piyush Goyal.The state is also looking to have its share reduced from 20 per cent to 10 per cent in the Visakhapatnam- Chennai corridor, according to media reports. —TheHans India @Shutterstock.co m @Shutterstock.co m @Shutterstock.co m
  • 13. APPAREL I November 2021 I 11 CMAIholds 25th IVY League Meeting mr. JAin &mr. dhALL BrieFed memBers on whAT The UpCominG opporTUniTies in The GArmenT indUsTry posT Covid-19 erA CoULd Be. CMAI’s 25th IVYLeague Meeting was held on Friday,October 22, 2021 at TheOrchid Hotel, Vile Parle (East),Mumbai. TheTopic for the Meeting was “Mid Term/LongTermView on Risein Demandfor Non-Essential Products”. TheSessionwas conducted by Mr. Siddharth Jain, Partner &Headof Lifestyle Practice, India, A.T.Kearney.Consulting (India)Pvt Ltd, Gurugramaccompaniedby his Partner, Mr. Karan Dhall.Mr. Vikas Madnani, Jt Chairman,IVY League Sub Committee welcomed the Members &Introduced the Speakers. Mr. Jain &Mr. Dhall briefed Members on how the Non-Essential Products Market went down in the Covid-19 Era&what the Upcoming Opportunities in the GarmentIndustrypost Covid-19 Eracould be. This meeting helped IVYLeague Members how to grow their BusinessModule after Covid-19 Erawith the Solutions providedby the Speakers. ThePresentation/Discussion was followed by a Q&ASessionfor the benefitof the IVYLeague Members. Forty IVYLeague Members attended the Meeting which was followedby Dinner. RepoRT
  • 14. CMaI CaPSULE 12 I APPAREL I November 2021 RENEWAL OF MEMBERSHIP WITH THE ASSOCIATION TheAssociationhas sent the Final Reminder dated November 10, 2021 to those Members who have not yet Renewed their Subscription for the Financial Year2020-21. Members who havenot renewed their Membership areonce againrequested to Renew their Membership before november 30, 2021. If the Renewal of the Subscription is not receivedby the Associationby then, suchMembers shallcease to be aMember of the Association from that Date. TheAssociation will be compelledto Stop Sending all information pertaining to the Tradeas well as Apparel. Anyfresh Application for Membership cannot be entertainedthereafter for aperiod of Six Months from the Date of Cessation. TheManaging Committeehas right to accept or rejectsuch an Application if receivedfor fresh Membership. Members aretherefore requested once again to kindlyRenew their Membership urgently to enablethe Associationto provide undisrupted Servicesfrom the Association. TheAssociationis also giving the Member an opportunity to avail the Benefit of Renewingthe Membership Subscription for 1/3/5 years,the Detailsof which areas under: PRIMARY Membership Period One Year - Subscription 3 Years - Subscription 5 Years - Subscription 18% GST Total Amount One Year 4,000 0 0 720 4,720 Three Year 0 10,000 0 1,800 11,800 FiveYear 0 0 16,000 2,880 18,880 ASSOCIATE, AGENT & DISTRIBUTOR MEMBER Membership Period One Year - Subscription 3 Years - Subscription 5 Years - Subscription 18% GST Total Amount One Year 3,000 0 0 540 3,540 Three Year 0 7,500 0 1,350 8,850 FiveYear 0 0 12,000 2,160 14,160 NEWS
  • 15. CMaI CaPSULE APPAREL I November 2021 I 13 ORGANISATION Membership Period One Year - Subscription 3 Years - Subscription 5 Years - Subscription 18% GST Total Amount One Year 5,000 0 0 900 5,900 Three Year 0 12,500 0 2,250 14,750 Five Year 0 0 20,000 3,600 23,600 RETAILER Membership Period One Year - Subscription 3 Years - Subscription 5 Years - Subscription 18% GST Total Amount One Year 1,500 0 0 270 1,770 Three Year 0 4,000 0 720 4,720 Five Year 0 0 6,000 1,080 7,080 In case Members have any queries about the Renewal Process, pleasecontact Mr VijaySharma,Dy. Secretary on his Mobile No. 9820593780 and/or by E-mailto membership@cmai.in. CMAI’S 1ST VENDOR SOURCING FAIR (VSF) The Association is Organising its 1st Vendor Sourcing Fair 2021 on 24th & 25th November 2021 at Hotel Sahara Star, Opp Domestic Airport, Mumbai 400 099. Total 83 Exhibitors are displaying their Products in this Fair. This is One of akind TradeShow that it being Launched to bring Manufacturers and Brands, Largeand Regional Formats and Private Labels under OneRoof. This Fairwill give a chance to directly interact and work with sourcingspecialists from around the country to delivertheir customers more responsibly. TheExhibitors can also showcase their expertise,skill set, design sensibilities to private labelsad brand owners. This Platformis also to establish relationship with sourcing specialists,buyers, heads of merchandising largeformat stores, regionallargeformat stores and international and national single brand retail chains.ShoppersStop, Lifestyle, Manyavar, Jaypore,Myntra, Amazon Indiaand many more. TheDraw of Lots for Allotmentof Stalls to the Exhibitors was held on Monday, November 1, 2021 from 6 pm at the Office of the Association.Mr. Mukesh Jain, Chairman,VendorSourcing Fairaccompanied by Mr. Jayesh Shah,Vice President and Mr. Mohan Sadhwani, Executive Director, attended the Function.TheStall Numbers allotted to the Exhibitors were Uploaded on the CMAI’s OfficialWebsite - www.cmai.in along with the FloorPlan,Check In - Check Out Procedure, and Do's &Don’ts. The AllotmentLetterswere sent by E-mailto all the Exhibitors individually. Prior to the above Function,Exhibitors were requestedto Download the Aarogya Setu App compulsorily on their Mobile, WearFaceMasks at all times and maintain Social Distancingat the Draw of Lot Function as per the Guidelinesgiven by the State Government.
  • 16. CMaI CaPSULE 14 I APPAREL I November 2021 CONCILIATION & ARBITRATION SUMMARY REPORT FOR THE PERIOD SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER 2021. MIS FOR THE PERIOD OF SEPT' 2021 OCT' 2021 No. of Files Amount No. of Files Amount Opening TotalCases pendingresolution 2250 r47,55,29,122 2260 r48,04,64,435 New Complaints 16 r61,25,947 32 r85,80,616 Complaints resolvedfully in the Month 6 4 AmountCollected in the Month r11,90,634 r16,35,577 TotalCases pending resolution as on month end 2260 r48,04,64,435 2288 r48,74,09,474 Current Payment 17 r7,13,084 9 r10,04,549 Post DatedCheque Received 3 r4,77,550 5 r6,31,028 AmountCollected in the Month 20 r11,90,634 14 r16,35,577 CMAI’S 25TH IVY LEAGUE MEETING CMAI’s 25th IVYLeague Meeting was held on Friday,October 22, 2021 at TheOrchid Hotel, Vile Parle (East), Mumbai. The Topic for the Meeting was “Mid Term /Long Term View on Rise in demand for non- essential Products”. TheSessionwas conducted by Mr. Siddharth Jain , Partner &Headof Lifestyle Practice, India, A.T. Kearney.Consulting (India)Pvt Ltd, Gurugramaccompaniedby his Partner Mr. Karan Dhall. Mr. Vikas Madnani, Jt Chairman,IVYLeague Sub Committee welcomed the Members &Introduced the Speakersto IVYLeague Members present Mr. Jain &Mr. Dhall briefed Members how the Non-Essential Products Market went down in the Covid-19 Era & What will be the Upcoming Opportunities in the Garment Industry post Covid-19 Era. This meeting helped IVYLeague Members how to grow their business module after Covid-19 Era with the solutions provided by the Speakers. ThePresentation/Discussion was followedby aQ&ASessionfor the benefit of the IVYLeague Members. Forty IVYLeague Members attended the meeting which was followedby Dinner.
  • 17. CMaI CaPSULE APPAREL I November 2021 I 15 ACTIVITIES OF THE ASSOCIATION FOR THE MONTH OF SEPTEMBER 2021 Abrief Overview of the Activitiesof the Associationwhich the Secretariat was able to accomplish during the Month of September2021 has been sent to all Members on October 6, 2021 for the Information of Members. REPRESENTATIONS The Association sent its Representation to PMO, the Ministry of Commerce, Textiles & NITI Aayog highlighting the followingPoints : 1. The international traders and yarn exporters who are exporting our precious raw materials out of the country need to be checked. There is an attempt to project lower domestic demand for cotton and yarn so that maximum quantity can be available for export. 2. This could lead to shortages as early as February 2022 – March 2022 next year leading crisis within the Industry. 3. Wetherefore requestyou to ensure calibratedexport of cotton/cotton yarn. Saya ceiling of say 8.5% per month of last 3 years average export. 4. Along with calibration, there must be 5% Export Duty on the same. Thefarmer is already protected by MSP and he has nothing to gain or lose by the current cotton price. 5. Stock limits have been introduced for various agricultural commodities, but, cotton has been kept out of it. Stock limits must be introduced not only for cotton, but also for cotton yarn which is an industrial raw material. 6. We further request that import duty on cotton be removed. This will augment domestic supply and ensure price stability. It is noteworthy to stress here that the GarmentIndustry aloneemploys over 12 million people –a significant number of which as stated earlierare women. Together with the reported move of the GSTCouncil to increasethe GSTRateson Garments from 5% to 12% or perhaps15%, the continued high prices of raw materials suchas Cotton Yarnwill spell the death-knellof this Industry. TheAssociation submitted its plea for an urgentredressalto the above issue. TheAssociationwhile congratulatingthe Government and the Ministry of Textiles for conceptualising the Production Linked Incentive Scheme(PLIScheme) for Textiles, suggestedto build aGarment Factory of the scale that the Govt is envisaging, the Investment required will be far lower than in the Sectorsof the TextileChain . As such CMAI recommendedto the Govt to reduce the minimum investment required to Rs.25 Crores and Rs. 50 CroresONLYfor the Garment Sector. TheAssociationsent an Appeal dated November 8, 2021 to the PMO, Hon’ble Ministers of Finance, Textiles, Hon’ble State Ministers of Finance,Members of the GSTCouncil, TXC,etc. on behalf of the Textileand GarmentIndustryenclosing therewithcopies of Representations that have been submitted by several Associations,Local, Regional,and Sectorial includingCMAI. TheseAssociationshave represented the Govt on the similarlinesof the aspects, CMAI underlined and emphasized the major submissions and urged the GSTCouncil and Government to continue the existing Slabs of GSTon Textiles &Garments till such time the revisedSlabs arefinalized, and then put the entire TextileValue Chain in the Merit Rate as may be decided.
  • 18. CMaI CaPSULE 16 I APPAREL I November 2021 The Southern Regional Office sent a letter dated October 23, 2021 to all the Brands, on behalf of the Ready Made Garments Manufacturers from the State of Karnataka, regarding an update on the VDA matter (VariableDearness Allowance)for 2020-21. TheSouthern Regional Office also made a Representation to the AdditionalChiefSecretary, Labour Department, Government of Karnataka on October 28, 2021 requestingthem to ensure that there is no massunemployment many uneducated and undereducated people , particularly, women who are taken on the payroll of the companies and given all statutory benefits in rural areas. MEETINGS AVirtualmeeting under the Chairmanshipof Shri Upendra Singh, Secretary (Textiles)Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India was held on 8th November 2021 to discussIssue related to Raw materials in the TextileIndustry. TheMeeting was attended by SeniorOfficials, TextileCommissioner,Representatives of CCIand other Stakeholders of the TextileIndustry. Mr. RajeshMasand, President attended the said Meeting on behalf of the Association. Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI) Organised an Interactive Session on Production Linked Incentive Scheme notified for Textiles & Clothing Sector on Thursday, October 21, 2021, 11.30 am onwards on VirtualPlatform.Ernst &Young(E&Y)was the KnowledgePartner of the event. Mr RajeshMasand, President and Mr RahulMehta, ChiefMentor attended the Meeting on Virtual Platform. On this occasion, Shri Upendra PrasadSingh, IAS, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles deliveredthe Key- Note address. Shri Vijoy KumarSingh, IAS, Additional Secretary, Ministry of Textiles deliveredthe Special Address and Shri Jay Karan Singh, TradeAdvisor,Ministry of Textiles deliveredthe Concluding Remarks. The24th Meeting of the TechnicalAdvisory cum Monitoring Committee(TAMC)underAmended Technology Upgraded Fund scheme (A-TUFS)was held on 20th October 2021 under the Chairpersonship of the TextileCommissioner through Video Conference. Mr Mohan Sadhwani, Executive Directorattended the Meeting on behalf of the Association. CIRCULARS Cir No. 46/C-2 /21 dated November 1, 2021 sent to all Members in Mumbai &Maharashtra informing that the Public Health Department, Govt of Maharashtra issued Order dated October 26-28, 2021 advising Employees working in the Office and also peoplewho arevisiting the Office for work to wear Masks covering their Nose and Mouth Completely.Thesaid Orderalso stated that the Employees working in the office shouldhave completed both Dosesof Vaccinationand the Employershould collect their certificate of Vaccination. Sinceuse of Masks has been made Mandatory, they should follow the Orderstrictly and if found without Mask, is liableto pay aFineof Rs. 200/-. Theabove Orders in Marathi, Hindi &English Versionsent to the Members for their reference. Cir No. 47/ M -3/21 dated November 2, 2021 sent to all Members of the Association by e-mail enclosing therewith abrief overviewof the Activities which the Associationwas able to accomplish during the Month of October 2021. Cir No 48 &48 –A/ C-3/ 2021 dated 12th November 2021 both English and Hindi Versionsentto all Members of the Associationby E-mailinforming the Arbitration Seminar being Organisedby the Association on 23rd November 2021 between 3.00 PM &6.30 PM at YogiSabhagruh, Opp: Dadar Station, Dadar(E)Mumbai 400 014 to explain the Arbitration Process”and fairness in the dispute resolution process by Experts/Eminent Lawyer.
  • 19. APPAREL I November 2021 I 17 RepoRT Fashion for aCause FewManufacturer Members of the Association generouslyDonated Kids Garments to the Lost & Found Foundation, who Organiseda Fashion Show on October 23, 2021 at RadissonMumbai, Andheri MIDC for the OrphanKids to Support and Motivate them. It was a wonderfulsight to see the Youngstersdefy their circumstances and walk the Rampfull of Confidence and Josh. This was possible only because of heartwarming gesture shown by the Kids Manufacturers. CMAI, conveyed its sincere thanksfor their support to this noble cause.
  • 20. 18 I APPAREL I November 2021 CoveR SToRy Wedding Season RevsUp Heer Kothari explores the impact of the pandemic and the choices made by the Indian bride Images Courtesy: Lalit Dalmia for Bhavya Collection; Qbik; Asha Gautam The KPMG 2021 report cites that the Indian wedding market is estimated at $50 billion. The figures continue to display a sharp surge in the years to follow. Those dreamy,fairy tale weddings took a devastating hit during the COVID-19 pandemic. Guest lists had to be downsized, allowing no more than 50 people at one point. While the pandemic has changed quite a few things across the industry, the modern day bride still sways towards an indulgent wedding outfit.
  • 21. THE DECISIVE IMPACT In aconversation with Delhi-based designer,Lalit Dalmia,we learn, “A bride is very clear about what she wants to wear on her 'D-Day’! Right from her childhood, she’s introduced to fairytales and mythological narratives that propel herto subconsciously plan herdream outfit for her wedding day.” According to Lalit,pandemic or no pandemic, nothing can impact the bride's choice. “The wedding day is her day,and she reignsand rulesthe roost on that day!” he notes! VrindaSachdeva, founderof Qbik, echoes this sentiment.Bridal preferences have become practical without cutting out on the fanfare.Vrinda adds, “Today’s top bridal pick includes attributes like classic, timeless, traditional, value for money, and at the same time respect the craftsmanship. It’s fun meeting brides who aren’t spending oodlesof time and moneyon their outfits. They thankfully aren’t considering these outfits to be the end of the world. Theyare thinkingabout wearability and versatility which in itselfare big changes in perception. Theydon’t want super heavyattires that get dumped underthe bed and just end up consuming space for years to come.” APPAREL I November 2021 I 19 CoveR SToRy
  • 22. 20 I APPAREL I November 2021 CoveR SToRy THE COLOR PALETTE Onewill always find the dynamic scheme colors, weaving interesting narratives on the bridal attire. Thecolors of joy and happiness make an underlining statementin more than one way. Vrindaadds, “As a designer who tries to make collections without followingseasons, Idon’t follow color trends. Our country’s dynamic culture has so much to offer, that I’d love playing with color combinations and techniques instead.” Designersenjoydabbling with the bridal palette. Whilered takes the lead,whites, greens, yellows, pinks, and purplesare here to follow suit. Gautamadds, “Though pastel and muted shades arein, what is trending is twinning with your spouse. Thedesigns areminimalistic, and the silhouettes comprise of an eclectic blend of modern design with traditional works.” Social media and the buzz around it means brides look for outfits that make you spend a second more on the ‘gram. This is why his client’s havea very defining of the idea of their D-Day. “Purples and mauves maybethe in colours, but why not play with them? Colours such as cherry red and maroons add cadenceand opulence to the regalonsetas demandedby the occasion.” EMBROIDERY OPTIONS Thevivid and intriguingart forms of India come alive in the bridal trousseau.Gorgeous geometrical insightsto intricate floral bouquets Theimpact on fanfareplays aquintessential role in the design choices. Muted neutral tones, with minimalistic leanings, areoutfit options that most bridesprefer today. GautamGupta from Asha Gautam, says, “The downsizing of weddings has a great impact on the fashion industry. In the industry, designers who’re only working on bridal wear or ethnic wear havesuffered a colossalloss.Theproduction of ethnic Indianwear, has hit the ‘pause mode’ due to the pandemic, and implementationof social distancing. Despite this weddings do take place, but the fanfareis greatly tonned down.” GorGeoUs GeomeTriCAL insiGhTs To inTriCATe FLorAL BoUqUeTs ThAThAve Been AroUnd For yeArs mArk An emphATiC presenCe on The BridAL ATTire.
  • 23. that have been around for years,mark an emphatic presence on the bridal attire. However, in recenttimes, the bridal lehengaadorns an important aspect of her life by highlightinga narrative on her special day. Lalittakes pride in replicatingthese narratives. He goes on to add, “Those dreamyfairy-tales of kings and queens, and celestial gods and goddesses maketheir way into the bridal lehenga. Thebride today wears her essenceon hersleeve on her D-day.” APPAREL I November 2021 I 21 CoveR SToRy
  • 24. 22 I APPAREL I November 2021 CoveR SToRy Vrindahas been blendingtraditional weaves with defining embroidery patterns to set the bride apart. Vrindaadds, “Since 2019, we havebeen working with evergreen fabrics like Ikat weaves and Kashmiri embroidery.This results in ariot of colours, that looks extremelyrich and luxurious.In a nutshell,the garment is well thought out and comprises an eclectic mix of patterns and designs that make adeifying moment on the bride’s D-Day.Wealso take pride in exploring dye techniquessuch as batik and bandhej, introducing them to our signature drapes and styles.” Gautam is smitten by the regal weaves of Benaras and the gorgeous bandhej patterns. “The benarasiand bandhej weave form an intrinsic part of the Indianculture. The amalgamation of rich gold threads, gorgeous traditional zardosi embroidery coupled with colours of the dyes from bandhej, make for abrilliant combination. Thewonderful amalgamation of these elementswill lead to trends that areinimitable and will never go out of fashion at the same time.” The AmALGAmATion oF riCh GoLd ThreAds, GTrAdiTionAL zArdosi emBroidery CoUpLed wiTh CoLoUrs oF The dyes From BAndheJ, mAke For A BriLLiAnT ComBinATion."
  • 25. APPAREL I November 2021 I 23 CoveR SToRy THE STYLE STATEMENT Accessorising the bridal attire correctly is just as important. Onecannot miss out on the know-hows of accessorising the attire. Gautamsays, “Try to keep your jewelry simple and minimalwith printed patterns. Tryopting for a traditional potli bag or clutch bag that’s finished with elementsof tradition. Thejewelry options can be stubby tweaked whereby the bride can choose to havestatement earrings or astatementring to complete the look.” Lalitgoes on to state, “Plunging necklines are still in vogue.This can be suitablyfinished with abroad choker.” Vrindaof Qbik adds, “The heirloom pieces, however heavyor light, will never run their course! It doesn’t only add to the emotional factor,but adds to the oomph.” TheIndianbridal attire in itselfis a platform to showcase the myriad culturalnuances of India. Eventhough the artisanal ecosystem is unorganised,it rests on the designer’s shoulders to creativelyelevatethe stanceof our mesmerising handlooms and artisanal output, by creatively staging the creations. No pandemiccan ever affectthe course of the big fat Indianwedding or the preferences of the bride. It's only about how creative a designer can get about helping herput herbest foot forward on her D-Day.
  • 26. in TeRvieW WHAT DREW YOU TO THE TExTILE AND FASHION INDUSTRY? Igrew up in the textile/fashion industry in Australiaso textiles havealways been a big part of my life. Thebusiness was a third generation textile import business,mainly importing from Britain and Europe until my father inherited the business. He started to import from other parts of the world includingIndia. Many years and many stories later,Idecided to discoverIndiaand hertextile treasuresfor myself. WHAT IS YOUR IMPRESSION OF INDIAN TExTILES? Indiahas always been afascination,ever since Ican remember.With such arich and diverse culture, my travels throughout Indiaonly enhanced my passion for 24 I APPAREL I November 2021 "INDIAHAS ALWAYSBEENA FASCINATION" Brinda Gill talks to Caroline Poiner, founder of the social enterprise Artisans of Fashion (AOF)and business enterprise Cloth &Co, based in Sydney, Australia, shares her thoughts on collaborating with textile artisans in India to create collections for the global market Photographs Courtesy: Artisans of Fashion (AOF)
  • 27. in TeRvieW textiles and interest in the artisanal techniques. There is a strong connection with Indiaand the Australianfashion industry, but this was mainly through export houses. This relationship was somethingIwas keen to explore: how Icould connect the designer and the artisan to co- create,open a designer's eyesto this incredible world of handcrafted textiles.Tome, it was an opportunity for designers and craftspeople to gain an understanding of each other’s skills and create something truly authentic. WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO ESTABLISH ARTISANS OF FASHION (AOF)? Artisans of Fashion (https://www. artisansoffashion.com) started as apassion project in 2012. Idecided to immersemyself in India; traveling into villagesand communities tounderstand the culture, the traditions and the techniques.It was throughthis understanding that Isaw the opportunity for designers and artisans to share their knowledgeand skills as expert collaborators in the processand to bring the two worlds together. Iwanted to share this experience with designers to help them gain a better understanding in how to work with artisans APPAREL I November 2021 I 25
  • 28. in TeRvieW 26 I APPAREL I November 2021 this with contemporarydesign aesthetics.It is without a doubt that many of these craft techniques and the traditional knowledge can convey sustainability practices in fashion, bringing anew perspective to the textiles and crafts of India. WHAT MADE YOU DECIDE TO WORK WITH ARTISANS IN INDIA? During my early travels some 20 years ago, Ifell in love with India, the people, ancienttraditions, art and culture and the richness and diversity of the textiles.Therewas also the concern that for many of the techniques,without making them relevant, they were at the risk of being completely lost. Indiais renowned for the multitude of craft practices that aretraditionally rooted in asustainable approach with natural fibres and regenerativepractices, providing a sound argument for exploring the possibilitiesas part as equalpartnersand to create somethingwith meaningful. Twoyears later,Ifounded Cloth &Co. (https:// clothandco.co/ )with my daughter Daisy,who is equallypassionate about India. Cloth &Co. was founded as acommercial venture with avery specific purpose: one where we could create asuccessful business producing high quality apparel that had sustainability, women empowermentand socialand environmental impact at the core. WHAT IS THE AIM OF AOF? AOFwas founded as a platform to bridge the gap between Westerndesigners and India’s textile artisans;educating as well as encouraging authentic, collaborative partnerships underpinned by dignity and mutual respect. Theaim is to preservethe traditionalknowledge and craft skills behindthe exquisite textiles whilst harmonising
  • 29. in TeRvieW APPAREL I November 2021 I 27 of adesigner or brand's sustainability agenda. I knew from that first trip that Iwanted to make this my life’swork and somehowIwould make that happen. WHICH ARTISAN COMMUNITIES AND/ OR TExTILE TECHNIqUES HAVE YOU BEEN COLLABORATING WITH? Overthe years we have worked with artisan communities in Jaipur,Telangana,Bhuj, Varanasi,Santipurin WestBengal, Bihar and Assam (among others). Wehaveworked with textile artisans,from amultitude of regions, producing arange of fabrics with diverseand distinctive regionaltechniques,generally made withbeautiful natural fibres.All of the regions were selected based on techniques that aligned with designers’ interestsas well as the accessibility and communication to support their capacity for asuccessful and sustainable partnership.This along with the relationships that Iformed with artisan communitiesover the past decade. Aregion Ihavebecomeincreasinglyinterested in is Assam,after an intensivetrip visitingweaving clusters in Bodoland under apublic diplomacy initiative undertaken by the Indianand Australian Governments focusing on the export of eri silk and traditional textiles of Bodoland. For the past three or so years, Ihavebeen involved with 7WeavesSocial in Assam,working on strategic developmentand international partnerships where Ihaveplayed an active role in the development of marketing strategies and buildingrelationships for access to the global market. HOW DO YOU TYPICALLY WORK OUT DESIGNER-ARTISAN COLLABORATIONS? Weareflexible in how we work, every situation is different but our main focus is ensuring that the engagement between the designer and the artisans is apositive one where both find the entire processand outcome arewarding experience. Wesource textiles directly from artisans and presentthem to designers to give them inspiration. Theymay order exactly what
  • 30. in TeRvieW 28 I APPAREL I November 2021 they see or look to develop it to better suit their requirements. Wehave done several bespoke designs where we discuss the designcomposition, the techniqueand the yarn fibre, working together with the artisan to create something new. Idesign the collections for Cloth &Co. Weproduce our organic cotton jersey collections in afactory outside Tirupur and also develop products based on the skillsets of the artisans or the locally available fibres. IS THERE — BROADLY SPEAKING — AN AUSTRALIAN AESTHETIC REGARDING GARMENTS STITCHED WITH HANDCRAFTED TExTILES? Australiais generallymore conservative and will err towards the more understated but with exports to Europeand North America, this is changing. Ultimately we still need to balance the cost and timelines. Workingwith handcrafted fabrics comes at amuch higher price than working with the massmanufactured fabrics many designers areworking with. If the designer or brand is establishedon the principlesof slow fashion and consciouslysourcingthen it is a much easier transition; for established designers and brands already in the ‘system’, pricing and timing can be an issue. However, with the urgent need to address the climate crisis and sustainability agenda, the artisan sector can play a powerful role and provide amotivation tochange their ways. So to answer this question— there are parallelsbetween the contemporaryIndianand the Australianaestheticwith all the beautiful lightweight natural fibre fabrics, particularlythe gorgeouscottons, kalacotton and khadi. There is afascinationand growing appreciationfor the craft details,particularly the story telling and provenance play asignificantrole in the consumer's perception of a garment. Themore peopleunderstand craftsmanship,the more they will spend on a garment.
  • 31. in TeRvieW APPAREL I November 2021 I 29 COULD YOU TELL US ONE OR TWO COLLABORATIONS OF AOF THAT WERE PARTICULARLY FULFILLING? Everyinteraction is interesting and meaningfulbut the ones that aremost fulfilling arewhen there is on-going work between a designer and artisan group. For several collections we worked with asmallgroup of bandhej artisans for Australian designer KITXthat was facilitated by a young couple in Bhuj who were incrediblewith their understanding of the need-setsand their ability to deliver. Ikat weaves havebeen afavourite for several designers.we havealong term partnership with weavers in Telanganawho have been producing for us for many years. WHAT ARE THE CHALLENGES OF RUNNING SUCH AN INITIATIVE? There aremany challengeswhich are usually founded in miscommunication and lackof understanding.First, Ilike to ensure that the designer or brand’smotivationsfor working with artisans aregenuine. Also that they respect the integrity of the artisans and the techniques and want to collaborate in atruly authenticway. And of course, that the artisans will be credited and fairly compensated. Workingin this sector comes with challenges but after more than a decade Ihavebecome much better at pre-empting. Wehave very clear expectationswhen it comesto timeframes, payments and quality.Wearevery upfront when we enter into an agreement; despite it being a collaborative approach, it needs to be commercially viableto be sustainable so we explainthe implications of loss on both sides. We run throughthese details several times at each stage of the processand we are consistent in our approach. Trustis everything; this applies to everyone we work with. Ialso havean employee on the ground in Delhi,who has worked with me for almostsix years. Sheknows how we work for both Cloth &Co. and AOFand upholds our principles. This helps when there arelanguage barriers. DO YOU FEEL THERE IS POTENTIAL FOR DESIGNERS FROM ABROAD TO COLLABORATE WITH INDIAN TExTILE ARTISANS? Absolutely,Ibelievethat this will continueto grow, particularly with the new generation of designers and couture houses who place artisanal skills and cultural integrity at the heart of their brand philosophy. Indiais well-positioned to provide end-to-end apparel solutions, incorporating artisanal skills throughout the process. Thedemand for this will continue to grow with technology and the increasing number of entrepreneurs in the sector, traceability, transparency,and sustainability front of mind. DO YOU ASSIST IN THE PRODUCTION OF THE STITCHED GARMENTS? Whenworking with artisans,it is desirable to produce the garmentsin Indiaas opposed to other global production hubs like Chinaor Indonesiato minimisethe carbon footprint. Alternatively,production will take placein Australia, depending on the volumesand the nature of the designer or brand. Australia’s manufacturing has been predominantly offshore for many years now. There is a big push to localise manufacturing but for sustainable and artisanal textiles, Indiais our greatest source.
  • 32. in TeRvieW 30 I APPAREL I November 2021 COULD YOU TELL US ABOUT ANY RECENT PROjECTS IN INDIA UNDERTAKEN DURING THE PANDEMIC. Workhas been on-going despite the pandemic. Cloth &Co. has been working on the entire summer collection and in some cases where longer lead times arerequired we aredeveloping our winter range; our partners in Indiahave been amazingin ensuring we get our stock delivered in time. Wehad to improvise with sampling, pre- ordering our organic cotton and shift our timelines but with clear communication and understanding of expectations we havecome through successfully.For AOF,we have also managed to keep up orders and collaborations with several artisan groupsensuring continuity of income. Wehave connected with anumber of European designers who aredeveloping designs with us through which we see a lot of potential. TELL US ABOUT YOUR FUTURE INITIATIVES. Thepandemic has highlightedthe need for us to diversify and expand our offer so we have been working on new developmentsand partnerships for the International marketincluding some more accessible eri silk from 7 Weaves,are generative cotton farm project, hemp and kalacotton. We see opportunities for hand knits, tie-dye and hand print techniquesso finding some versatilecloth and yarns is imperative. COULD YOU SHARE YOUR OBSERVATIONS ON WORKING IN INDIA? There is a new generation of Indianentrepreneurs, many who havegrown up in the artisan sector and doing great work incommunication and utilisingtechnology; however, Istill believe there is agap when it comesto collaborative work. Thecultural nuances, the design aesthetic, colour palettes and qualityexpectations all requiremanagement. Havingtrusted partners or working with an organisationlike AOF with enough expertise and agood network of partners to provide the support your business needs takes the pressureoff the relationship and ensures greater success. It is the trust in the relationship, the high level of communication and knowing the boundaries and expectations on both sides.There arecultural differences and expectations that with alack of understanding can easily be the difference between an enriching and rewarding experience and disappointment or tremendous financial loss. Indiandesigners havethe great privilege of not only havinga deep understandingof the artisan culture but also access to the plethora of artisan techniques across the board and the ability to sit with artisans and develop their designs in atruly collaborative way. This is one of the challenges that Australiandesigners and brands face when it comes to the more distinct and elaborate developments,it’s anotherworld that we don’t really havethe opportunity to enter.My hope is that with more designers engaging with AOFand with artisans connecting through technology, we will be able to develop more elaborate designs in the future.
  • 33. 901, Naman Midtown,‘A’Wing, BehindKamgar KalaKendra, Senapati Bapat Marg, Prabhadevi (West), Mumbai-400 013. Tel.:+91 22 2439 0909 I Email :info@cmai.in, social@cmai.in I Website :www.cmai.in
  • 34. FeaTURe 32 I APPAREL I November 2021 Celebrating IndianTextiles Nila House, located in an aesthetically restored heritage home in Jaipur, is a centre of excellence for revitalising traditional Indian textiles. Brinda Gill writes Images Courtesy: Nila House Jaipur,the capital of Rajasthan,effortlessly charmsthe visitorwith its formidable forts; regalpalaces;majesticmonuments; museumsof prized art, craft, textile and culturalcentres;delicious cuisine;wonderful shopping; colourfulfestivals; and the gracious hospitality of its residents. Theplanned city was founded in 1727, by Maharaja Sawai Jai SinghII(reign 1699–1743) who was apatron of architecture,arts and crafts.
  • 35. APPAREL I November 2021 I 33 FeaTURe NILA HOUSE Textilelovers visiting Jaipur can indulge in a memorable array of experiences from shopping at colourful bazaarswith a choice of handmade textiles to viewing exquisite crafts, arts, new and vintage textiles and attire at galleries, cultural centres,museums, monuments,and heritage and palace hotels. Oneof the newest experiences in the city’s craft landscape is the lovelyNila House — a restored and revitalised heritage home — now a centre for celebrating handmade Indian textiles. “Lady Bamford Foundation was founded in 2016 by Lady CaroleBamford,a patron of handmade crafts and textiles,and organic farming and products, as aCSRinitiative of JC Bamford (JCB)IndiaLimited. JCB has remainedcommitted to Indiafor more than three decadesand its CSRprograms have worked on development initiatives with afocus on disadvantaged communitiesaround JCB factories in India. Nila House, which is part of TheLady BamfordFoundation, was establishedin 2016 to furtherthis mandate with afocus on the artisan communities of India”says AnuradhaSingh, Head, Nila House. A DREAM COME TRUE Creating Nila House was the realisation of a 25-yearold dreamof Lady CaroleBamford, who travelled to Indiadecades ago to know the country and study meditation. She met with artisans;observed theirskills;and deeply appreciatedtheir hand work, hand-spun and hand-wovenfabrics. Her experiences left her with awish to establish a centreof excellence to promote Indiancrafts and textiles,for peopleto come and see what can be done in India. And Nila Houseis a result of that wish. Keen to restore an old structure (to give an existing building a new lease of life rather than havinga new buildingconstructed), LBFhad a stately single-storey bungalow, built in the 1950s in Jaipur’s C-Scheme,restored. Architect Bijoy Jain and his team worked on the project (2017-
  • 36. 34 I APPAREL I November 2021 FeaTURe AIM OF NILA HOUSE “The work on Nila Housecommenced in 2016 before the physical spacewas ready.Theteam travelled to meet with artisans,artists, designers and natural dyers with an aim to showcase to the world what is possiblein Indiawith hand-spun yarns, hand-woven fabrics and natural dyes”, says Anuradha. Nila Houseopened its doors in October 2019 with an inauguralcollaborative collection with well-known UK-based designer Anna Valentine, who engaged with artisans working with natural dyes and shiborito work on the designer garments. Once Nila House opened, the team supported farmers cultivating indigenous cotton, having this cotton transported to spinners and subsequently to natural dyers and handloom weavers, thus 2019), using traditional materials and techniques, to create an elegant centreexuding spaceand serenityin its airy,white-painted rooms and open- to-sky inner courtyard. Thebuildinghas dedicated spaces for workrooms (for hand-spinning,block-printing, natural dyeing),workshops (inrooms around the innercourtyard),exhibitions,an archive (with swatchesof undyed and naturally dyed handwoven textiles of different counts with emphasis on handwoven fabrics with handspun yarns), alibrary,a shop, and anannexe for artist residencies. Nila House opened in October 2019, and has since been avenue for exhibitionsand workshops; aspace for artisans to practise their craft; and a centrefor artisan-designer collaborations, and other like-minded individuals. The TeAmTrAveLLed To meeT wiTh ArTisAns, ArTisTs, desiGners And nATUrAL dyers wiTh An AimTo howCAse whAT is possiBLe in indiA wiTh hAnd- spUn yArns
  • 37. APPAREL I November 2021 I 35 FeaTURe creatinga farm-to-fabric value chain.This chain is furtherextended, by havinggarments stitched at smallunits and training women to stitch garments so that afarm to finished garmentvalue chain is established. All these effortshave created the bedrock of Nila House’sobjectivesof celebrating and preserving India’srich heritage of traditional textiles;initiating conversationswith artisans from different communities specially hand- spinners,hand loom weavers, and natural dyers; and creating aplatform and space for creative exchange and collaborations. INDIGO As the name Nila — meaningblue — suggests, Nila Houseis focused on working with natural indigo dye, a dye that has been historically part of the palette of Indianartisans (asthe plant is indigenous to Indiaand artisans havelong obtained beautiful tones of indigo for dyeing yarns and textiles from it). Nila House has worked with artisans to explore motifs and patterns that can be block-printed; yarns and cloth that can be dyed with natural indigo; and textiles that can be embroidered with yarn dyed with natural indigo. Nila Houseis also working with other natural dyes for theirbeauty, their attributes and their associations with Indian culture, beliefs and textiles. Thoughindigo has long grown in India, introduction of synthetic dyes in the 19th century (and other factors) forced the cultivationof indigo to decline.In this context, Nila House is supporting farmers in cultivatingindigo and encouraging dyers to work with it. Anuradha explains, “In linewith Nila’s greater vision of reintroducing natural dyes into the craft ecosystem of India, particularly natural indigo, we areencouraging and supporting artisan communities to cultivateindigo, extract it and furtherhelp set up and maintain natural indigo vats. Nila is also growing indigo to document
  • 38. 36 I APPAREL I November 2021 FeaTURe and experiment — harvest and extraction — from seed to dye. Our aim is to collaborate with traditional artisans to combinetheir extensive knowledge of age-old-dyeing traditions with the researchcapabilitiesof our team." INTERACTIONS AND ENGAGEMENTS Though the Covid-19-related pandemic and lockdowns within afew months of Nila House’s inception led to slowingdown of activities,the team continued to organise programs, workshops and exhibitions— at the premisesand virtually — as possible within the parameters of the prevailing situation. Theteam connected with artisans (working with natural dyes, hand-spinning of yarn, hand-weaving), farmers (growing natural indigo and indigenous cotton) and like-minded NGOs (Avani,Antaranand Khamir) to engagewith artisans, offer support, and conduct up-skilling programmes and trainings. Theteam organised NavrangChallenge,an onlinecompetition (to create handcrafted posters using textile techniques), for artisans on the theme of building awarenessabout important issues; hosted RevisitingTraditions,an exhibition wherein five artisans from Kutch used natural indigo as acolour of expression and identity to create textiles representative of their traditional skills (hand-spinning,hand-weaving,dyeing, resist-dyeing); and created an onlinepresence for the products of Nila House. An exhibition, Legacy of Textiles, displayed the private collection of textiles of Shri Brij Bhasin, ex-IPS officerdeputed to the Ministry of Textiles, who has apassion for handmade textiles and has collected handmade textiles for The TeAmorGAnized nAvrAnG ChALLenGe An onLine CompeTiTion For ArTisAns on The Theme oF BUiLdinG AwAreness ABoUTimporTAnT issUes
  • 39. APPAREL I November 2021 I 37 FeaTURe over 40 years. “The aim of the exhibitionis for visitors to study the beauty of handmade Indian textiles and understand how traditionalcraft can inspire innovation and can be translated into a contemporary format for the consumerof today,” says Anuradha During the lockdown Nila Houseworked with hand-spinners in Govindgarh, Rajasthanand with ground support from Khamirin Kutch, Gujarat. “The team identified older women hand-spinners in Govindgarh and Kutch, working with them to enhancetheirskills.Further, these women who had the traditional knowledge to spin were asked to train younger women in theirlocal community to hand-spin local cotton. Nila House has pledged to purchase all the hand-spun yarn during these interactionsand trainings with the local community spinners.This initiative also supported our mandate to empower our women artisans and support incomegeneration through employable skills,” adds Anuradha. NILA CONNECT Nila Houseis buildingNila Connect, a directory of artisans,social enterprises and independent brands, who create high-quality handmade textiles and crafts, across India. This directory is uploaded on the Nila Housesite and will be continually updated. Theinitiative conveys the effortsof Nila House to create a network of artisans,and for textile and craft lovers as well as customers to connect with artisans directly in a spirit of sharing and collaboration. Buildingon the activities held since its inception, Nila Houseaimsto continueto provide acreative and intellectual space for artisans, designers,craft and textile lovers, and visitors, and to help drive and contribute to the effortsof handmade and sustainability in India. Nila House demonstrates the possibilities of exploringIndian textiles and textile techniquesand how these centuries-old techniques can be mastered to create stylish apparel and accessories with an internationalappeal.
  • 40. FaShion Speak Turning Goa into a fashionhub Meher Castelino speaks to Pallav Ojha and Neha Asthana about turning the sunshine state into a fashion buzzhouse Photo courtesy: Pallavi Ojha
  • 41. Fashion speak APPAREL I November 2021 I 39 Thelate WendellRodricks turned the beach resortstate Goa into an haute fashion destination in 1996, when he openedthe first designer store in Panjim.Since then, Indiandesigners have flocked to this holiday state sellingtheirfashion stories to the locales as well as the international buyers. In 2018, two fashion mavericks, co-founders, PallavOjha,CEOand Neha Asthana, Headof Fashion of COMO DesignersCollective opened its doors in Goa and turned the state into a one-stop shopping centre for fashionistas.With two successful branches of the store in Goa, and one in Nepalretailing over hundred national and internationalbrands, it was but natural that Pallav Ojhawould bring back to Goa, the much loved WendellRodrickslabel, which was silent after the designer’s untimely passing away in February 2020. WENDELL RODRICKS FASHION CONTRIBUTION PallavOjhaand Neha Asthanadescribed the reasonfor the WendellRodricks labellaunch and their future plans for Goa as a fashion hub. “WendellRodrickshas inspired many people and especially for abrand like us to make an impact with the idea of Indiato the world. Post his demise, his admirers felt like it was the end of an era. Wewere really happy to know Purple Style Lab’s (PSL)brand acquisitionand their desireto take the brand to the next level all over again! Weworked on the retail tie-up and business models with PSLto bring the brand back to Goa and offered it “LIVElong” once again!TheWR brand will be exclusive with us in Goa and we are working on the vision of the brand for the state.” According to the duo, the buyers loved the new SeaGlass Collection,which had agreat response
  • 42. 40 I APPAREL I November 2021 acrossfashion weeks and global runway platforms. Wendellworked on the notion that clothing should be comfortable like second skin. Wendellalso revived the weaving of the traditional Goan Kunbi Sari, with a two-year project involving identifying and trainingweavers in the use of sari looms.” PIONEERING EFFORTS Along with being apivotal designer who shaped contemporary design in the Indianfashion industry, Wendellwas an author, environmentalist, and a vocal advocate of all that he believed in. TheWendellRodricks SignatureStyle Keep it simple — the label’sDNAlies in creatingsilhouettes that transcend seasons, and styles you can reach for time and time again. Fused with minimaldetailing and understated eleganceand versatility is at the centreof every evenon the classicsand shoppers have loved the brand’s new positioning so far! Inspired by the ocean's greatest marvels, the SeaGlass collection features timeless styles made in handloom cotton (100’sKhadi). Manmade trash turned to treasuresby the ocean; sea glass is beautifully carved out of carelesslydiscarded glass.Thecolour palette is primarily made up of Mist White,FijiYellow, Coral Pink, Belize and Mineral Grayhues with accents of Deep SeaBlue and Dark Waters. Everypiece looks as good as it feels, and can be worn seasonafter seasonwith already-paired separates or the ones in your wardrobe. Pallavis aware the impact the late designer had. He single-handedly put the tiny Indianstate of Goa on the fashion map. He adds, “Wendell was the first person to coin the word, ‘Made in Goa’. He made the brand ‘Goa’ international
  • 43. APPAREL I November 2021 I 41 WendellRodrickscreation. Carefully crafted with luxurious,fluid, and breathable fabrics, the designs bring forth Wendell’sGoan heritage and unique design aesthetic. From defying norms to making waves in the environment-friendly fashion segment,Wendellhas been known to always introduce something fresh to the massesthat cater to both menand women, with a focus on meticulouscraftsmanship and investment pieces. FUTURE PLANS FOR THE LABEL Speaking about future plans for the brand, the duo said, “Weplan to haveWRpresence acrossall our COMO stores. Wealso want to create Wendell’sexperience zone in the store with his classics,latest collection, footwear, accessory, jewellery, his written books and other memorabilia. We are constantly taking feedback from our clients across Wendell’sClassics and From deFyinG norms To mAkinG wAves in The environmenT-FriendLy FAshion seGmenT, wendeLL hAs Been known To ALwAys inTrodUCe someThinG Fresh To The mAsses ThATCATer To men And women new collection and passing the same to the WR team.Wealso wish to target the new consumers and millennialaudience, who want to live in style and panache.” FASHION RETAILING IN GOA Established in the year 2018 from GOA, COMO
  • 44. Fashion speak 42 I APPAREL I November 2021 and affordability underall brand verticals. In the last three years,the store has emerged as the most desired shopping destination for affluent fashionistas as well as alarge number of youngsters looking for exclusivity along with affordability. However the enterprising duo reveals,“The market size is smallbut if you arefocussed on your target group, the volumesand numbers are very high. Thefocus is on this niche, hence we could multiply with multiple stores. Wefocus on the travellers, outsiders now turned into locals. Whenpeople areon holiday they splurge and we arethe destination store for them to get everything under one roof.” Theprice points vary from `999 to `14,999 however the sweet spot in the pricing of `5,000 –`7,000 that sellsthe most in a ratio of 70% women’s and 30% men’s wear. in The LAsTThree yeArs, The sTore hAs emerGed As The mosT desired shoppinG desTinATion For AFFLUenT FAshionisTAs As weLL As A LArGe nUmBer oF yoUnGsTers LookinG For exCLUsiviTy ALonG wiTh AFFordABiLiTy. DesignersCollective is aone-stop destination with acomplete rangeof handpicked collections from designers across the world. Theproduct categoryspans across clothing, accessory, jewellery, handbags,foot wear, skin care, gifting and other fashion essentials. Thestore believes in the philosophy of exclusivity, individuality
  • 45. Fashion speak APPAREL I November 2021 I 43 HOLIDAY DESTINATION As aretail destination, Pallavfeels, “Weare cateringto travellers and people who havesettled in Goa from across the world, alot of them have made Goa theirhome. Post Covid-19, Goa has seen a huge influx from people from Tier Aand B cities settling down in Goa. Workfrom home is a great concept sitting by the beach or the poolside in Goa. Peoplehave chosen quality of life post COVID-19.This has helped us alot to makeour store the only fashion destinationstore. Wehave also started catering to local Goans now with our day wear as well as white brides.” FUTURE FASHION PLANS Thelockdown did cause problems for fashion stores all over Indiaas well as in Goa but Pallav reveals,“Wewere building! Wewere working on our strategies,our product line, designing and constructing new stores and associations and also launched our global onlineportal www. comocollective.com. Wearealso launching COMO Cafe across all our outlets, which pushes us to get a lot more footfallsas well be present in established hotelsand hospitality chains as COMO Getaway Stores as the target audience is already present in these places and want to indulge.COMO Cafe will bring the best of culinary experiences across all our outlets.” Marketing fashion in Goa means constant designer launches, open house events with closecustomers, wine and cheesesessions, designer of the month etc. at the store level.“We arevery active on our Instagram and relevant print network for advertisements and editorials,” says Neha. Commenting on the future of fashion and plans for the WendellRodrickslabel, Pallav states, “Indian fashion is more focussednow into the smallercities and destinationswhere peoplewant to be presentand seen.Weplan to take the WRbrand across all our stores. By end of the fiscal year 2021-2022, we aim to be presentacross10 new hospitality chains and luxury hotels apart from making our flagship stores in Goa and Nepal, a one-stop destination for people to indulge in fashion and culinary experiences.”
  • 46. TRADE AFFAIRS 44 I APPAREL I November 2021 E C a v l e e n n d t a s r aPPaReL BRINGS YOU A QUICK LIST OF THE FORTHCOMING FAIRSAND EXPOS. @Shutterstock.co m TRade aFFaiRS DeCeMber 2021 PERFORMANCEDAYSFUNCTIONALFABRIC– 2021 december 1 to 2, 2021 PERFORMANCEDAYSissynchronised with the industry'sdeadlines makingit possiblefor designers, product, purchasingand material managersto perform sourcing. Thelatest trends and innovations in the functional fabric industryareon displayfrom more than 290 qualityexhibitors. PERFORMANCEDAYS will attract internationalmanufacturers and well-known sportswear and activeclothing brands. VenUe I MesseMünchen deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy I Munich, Germany FESPAEURASIA2021 december 2-5,2021 FESPAEurasia2021 isatrade show, presenting business opportunities, networking and sourcingfor individuals and companieswithin the screen,digital and textileprinting and signage communities.FESPA Eurasiaincludes large format digital printing, screen printing, textileprinting, signage, car wrapping, 3D printing, commercialprinting, display,LED, print and signage software, consumablesand more.A must-visit if you arean internationalprinter, designer, print buyer, retailer,interiordesigner, fashion brand or print professional,it offersthe verylatest products, innovations and informationfrom over 500 brands. VenUe I IstanbulExpo Center (IstanbulFuarMerkezi) deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I Bakırköy in Istanbul,Turkey GARTEXTEXPROCESSINDIA 2021 december 3 to 5, 2021 Gartex TexprocessIndia willshowcase products, services, and technologies related to the complete production chain.Theevent includes Garment &TextileMachinery, Trims,Accessories,Denim, Laundry Show, Digitex, Embroidery Machinery, and showcasingof various equipment. VenUe I Pragati Maidan, New Delhi deMOGRaPhy I Domestic CITy I NewDelhi INDIAITME2021 december 8 to 13, 2021 India ITMEwill offerunmatchedbusiness to exhibitors as the Indian textilesindustrywhich is set for strong growth, buoyed by strong domestic consumption as well as export demand. It will open windows to various business verticals in the form of leads, contactsinquiries on amassiveplatform. VenUe IIndia ExpositionMart deMOGRaPhy I Domestic CITy I GreaterNoida, India THE8THCHINAHOMELIFEAND MACHINEXINDIA2021 december 9 to 11, 2021 ChinaHomelife India brings together thousands of buyers and Chinesemanufacturers on acommon platform. Thisyear,ChinaHomelife India will display products incategories acrossfurniture, textile& garments,home appliances,household items, gifts and manymoresectors. Theexhibition issupported by CIIwho will organise aone-day concurrent
  • 47. TRADE AFFAIRS APPAREL I November 2021 I 45 conference on how the business with India and Chinaisprogressingand avenuesfor joint ventures, cooperation etc. VenUe I BombayExhibition Centre (BEC) deMOGRaPhy I Domestic CITy I Mumbai,India INTEXSOUTHASIA2021 december 9 to 11, 2021 Intex South Asiaisthe largest international textiles sourcingshow inSouth Asia. It iscreated to fulfillthe growing demandfor innovative, smartand trendy textiles for the developing textiles and apparel industry of our region, which caters to large domestic as well as export markets. VenUe I Pragati Maidan, New Delhi deMOGRaPhy I Domestic CITy I New Delhi, India JANUArY 2022 GARMENTTECHNOLOGYEXPO- 2022 january 7, 2022 Garment TechnologyExpo’s flagshipevent, GTE, New Delhicoverssegmentsof the industry. Right from the latest technology machines to machine spares & consumablesto latest processes&systems;from raw materials to trimmings&embellishments, this event is apremier destinationfor buyers, wholesalers/dealers, manufacturers and corporate decision makers. VenUe I NSICExhibition Complex,Okhla deMOGRaPhy I Domestic CITy I NewDelhi THELONDONTEXTILEFAIR 2022 january 11 to 12, 2022 TheLondon TextileFairprovides manufacturers and their agents with the opportunity to showcasetheirproducts to the mostinfluential Britishbuyers and designers.Theshow is one of the top industryevents within the UKwith an increasing international appeal. VenUe IBusiness DesignCentre deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I London, UK PSI2022 january 11 to 13, 2022 PromoTexExpo 2022 willmarkthe fourth edition of the premier European show for promotion, sports and workwear.The expo forms part of an unparalleled internationalevent for advertising and selling, makingit possibleto bundle and displaytextile, haptic and visualcommunicationoptions under one roof. VenUe I Yetto be decided deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy I Düsseldorf,Germany PROMOTEXEXPO2022 january 11 to 13,2022 PromoTexExpo 2022 willmarkthe fouth edition of the premier European show for promotion, sports and workwear. Together with PSIand viscomDusseldorf,the expo forms part of an unparalleled internationalevent for advertisingand selling, makingit possibleto bundle and displaytextile, haptic and visualcommunicationoptions under one roof. VenUe IMesseDüsseldorf - P2 AmStaad, 40474 Düsseldorf,Germany deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I Düsseldorf,Germany
  • 48. TRADE AFFAIRS 46 I APPAREL I November 2021 JUNIOSHOW2022 january 12 to 15, 2022 JUNIOSHOW,which isthe brand meetingof baby and kids apparel industry, will be organised by Tüyap Bursa FairsOrganization Incand Bursa Chamber of Commerceand Industry(BTSO)incooperation with Baby KidsApparel Industrialistsand Businessmen Association(BEKSİAD.Theshow will present more than 10,000 modelsinspring-summercollection between the ages of 0 - 12 at the booths, thus combining quality-oriented productionwith design. VenUe I TüyapBursa International Fairand Congress Center deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I Bursa,Turkey DHAKAINTERNATIONALTEXTILE&GARMENT MACHINERYEXHIBITION2022 january 22 to 23, 2022 DhakaInt’l Textile&Garment Machinery Exhibition is the largest-evertrade fairof its kind inBangladesh. This event willshowcase avariety of equipment,products, technologies aswell as services and information concerning all the textile &garment processingand productionaspects. VenUe I International Convention CityBashundhara (ICCB) deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I Dhaka, Bangladesh TEX-STIL2022 january 15 to 17, 2022 Tex-Stil- Vejle2022 isone of the biggest trade dair of textiles,yarns, decoration materials, sewing machines, curtains. Thisevent will be continuing for the duration of three days inVejle,Denmark. At the show, get a chanceto demonstrateand introduce mostrecent products and new developments.Purchasers can peacefully get an overview of the overallsupply and build theirinventories in the best possibleway. VenUe I DGI-huset Vejle, deMOGRaPhy IInternational CITy I Vejle,Denmark APPARELSOURCINGUSA 2022 january 25 to 27, 2022 Apparel SourcingUSAisan event showcasesproduct from apparel brands, retailers, wholesalers, and independent designfirmsa dedicated sourcingmarketplacefor finding the best domestic and internationalapparel manufacturers. Apparel SourcingUSAproducts likeactivewear, denim, dresses, gloves, hats/headwear, intimates/shapewear, jewellery,knits/tops, labels,loungewear/sleepwear, outerwear/coats, pants/bottoms, polo shirts/shirting, scarves/shawls,socks/hosiery,suiting, sweaters, swimwear/resortwear, ties/ascots,T-shirtsand work wear. VenUe I Jacob K. JavitsConvention Center deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I NewYork,USA febrUArY 2022 74THNATIONALGARMENT FAIR February 1 to 3, 2022 CMAI’sIndia’sMost Popular Spring/SummerApparel TradeShow willbe held from February1 to 3, 2022 at Hotel JWMarriot MumbaiSahar,NearChhatrapati Shivaji International Airport, Andheri (East)Mumbai400 099. VenUe I HotelJ WMarriot, Mumbai Sahar deMOGRaPhy I National CITy I MUMBAI,INDIA
  • 49. TRADE AFFAIRS APPAREL I November 2021 I 47 THEMOSTINSPIRINGNORDICINTERIOR& DESIGNFAIR2022 February 3 to 6, 2022 TheMost Inspiring Nordic Interior&DesignFair isaplatform to experience creative, unique and visuallystrong trend zones filledwith inspirationfor attendees and theirstore. It willprovide aplatform for attendees to explore products likelighting, sustainable products, garden and outdoor, diverse textiles,wellness, branding articles,kitchen and tabletop, homeaccessories,shop furniture,gallery, festival, fashion accessories,and much more. VenUe I MCH Messecenter Herning, Herning, Denmark deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I Herning, Denmark PROJECTLASVEGAS 2022 February 14 to 17, 2022 Representing what’s new, now, and next in men’sand women’s contemporaryapparel, footwear and accessories,PROJECTLas Vegasiswhere domestic and international buyers go to be inspiredby higher-end brands, find margin-buildingproducts from relevant mid-market labels,and connect with likemindedindustrythought leaders and fashion insiders.Through afusionof community, education, media,and experiences, PROJECT Las Vegaspropels the next season’stop trends, generates global awareness, and ultimately, drives commerce. VenUe I Las VegasConventionCenter deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I LasVegas,USA PRINTWEARANDPROMOTIONLIVE 2022 February20 to 22, 2022 Printwear and PromotionLivewillfeature around 150 suppliersfrom all sectors of the garment and product decoration market, includingaround 60 clothing brands and distributors,as well as all the majordecoration equipment and accessories supplierscoveringdirectly to garment,transfer, sublimation,screen printing, and embroidery. VenUe I National Exhibition Centre, Birmingham,UK deMOGRaPhy I International CITy I Birmingham, UK CMAI’SFABSHOW–FABRICS, ACCESSORIES&BEYOND February22 to 24, 2022 Thisone-of-a-kindtrailblazer of ashow isbeing launched by the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI)to bring the entire apparel industry, and its complete supplychainunder one roof. Thiswillbe a unique platform for all participants to showcasetheir products or services. It will facilitateanyapparel manufacturer to sourceall inputs required –from fabrics to accessories,services, and machinery and beyond. VenUe I JioWorldConvention, Centre G- block, Bandra Kurla Complex,Bandra (East),Mumbai 400051 deMOGRaPhy I National CITy I Mumbai,India For moreinformation,log on towww.fibre2fashion.com In lieu of the ongoing Global Health Emergency due to COVID-19 & travel restrictions imposed on various countries, we request you to check the actual status of the event directly with the organisers first.
  • 50. Forinformationonsubscriptionand advertisingpleasecontact: 2ndFloor,PeninsulaSpenta, MathuradasMill Compound,Senapati BapatMarg, LowerParel,(West)Mumbai400013, T el.No.: +9124811010Ext No:1031/1024 circulation@spentamultimedia.com It’stimetogift yourselfagoodread. Astheysay… WHENEVER Y O UREADAG O O D MAGAZINE SOMEWHEREIN THEWORLD ADOOR OPENS T OALLOWIN MORELIGHT SEPTEMBER 2021 V 9 PA OLUME 60 ISSUE GES 38 r60 ORGANISATIONAL DESIGN AREVOLUTIONARYTRANSFORMATION T H EWINNINGF O R MU L A StéphaneJGG ir od P U T‘DESIGN’IN T OA C T IO N D rPennyPullan Subscribe Now