The Octopus Haircut Is an Updated Shag—Here's How to Get It

Consider this hybrid style the "it" haircut.

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model Kaia Gerber with octopus hair
Photo: Miikka Skaffari/Getty Images

When Jennifer Aniston's character on Friends gifted us with the famous "Rachel" haircut, it quickly became an iconic style of the '90s. Now, The Rachel is back with a modern twist, and it's called the octopus haircut.

The hairstyle has been dubbed as such because of its plethora of choppy layers, said to resemble octopus tentacles. And while it's currently a popular choice, it's not entirely unlike other cuts that have been favorites. Hair experts share their advice on how to ask for the cut, plus they offer styling tips and the best products to use.

What Is the Octopus Haircut?

Like many newer hairstyles, the octopus haircut is an amalgamation of other classic cuts before it, namely the shag and the mullet. "It's a more modern take on the shag, with shorter layers throughout the front and concave, short to long layers throughout the back," explains hairstylist and colorist Jarrod Shinn.

He describes the octopus cut as "edgy, shaggy, and effortless, with cool-girl vibes." The finishing element? Bangs, either curtain style that hits above the brow or a longer, cheek-grazing fringe, adds Shinn.

Best Candidates for This Look

Ideal Hair Types

The octopus cut can be tailored to each individual, so it can flatter most face shapes, according to hair artist Gina Rivera. Plus, with plenty of styling versatility, you can easily tweak it to fit your personal look.

"Mostly all hair types can definitely get the octopus effect. However, hair that is more straight or wavy might not need as much styling as if your hair was on the curlier side," says Rivera. And while curly hair can absolutely achieve this look as well, it does work best on those with naturally smooth or slightly wavy hair, notes Shinn.

Ideal Hair Length

According to Rivera, while longer hair is easier to style, those with shorter hair can absolutely pull off the octopus cut. "I would use the same styling technique [with shorter hair]. If the crown is too short for a round brush, tip the head upside down to create volume at the root, and then with your finishing product, piece out your ends with your fingers," she says.

How to Ask for the Octopus Haircut

The main focus with the octopus cut is to ask for volume at the crown, says Rivera. Your stylist should know your hair and can recommend styling techniques for this cut (especially for curly hair types).

As with any haircut (or hair color, for that matter), always bring some visual inspiration start for you and your stylist to look at and discuss together. The big decision to be made is how long you want your bangs to be, notes Shinn, who adds that they can hit either above the brow, at the cheek, or even at the chin.

"Ask your stylist to connect your shorter fringe layers with face-framing layers, as well as your desired all-over length," he suggests. The face-framing pieces should be shaggier, with longer round layers through the rest of the cut and shorter layers in the back. Finally, keeping the ends textured will add to the overall piecey effect and keep the cut from looking too blunt.

How to Style the Octopus Haircut

The octopus haircut is a favorite for its ease of styling. Depending on how much time you have, there is the option of styling without heat and just relying on products or spending some time in front of the mirror with the blow dryer.

Without Heat

As far as styling goes, feel free to stash away your hot tools; air-drying complements the overall edgy, effortless vibe perfectly. Here's how to style without heat.

  1. Allow hair to air dry about 90 percent post-wash.
  2. Apply a leave-in product to help smooth down any errant frizzies and enhance your natural texture. Rivera recommends a mousse or a gel.
  3. Once the product is applied, Rivera says to "scrunch the hair at the root as it air dries." This technique will add layers to the crown. "Texturizing the mid-shaft ends will help achieve this look as well," she says.

With Heat

On the flip side, if you want to add polish and elegance to this cut, it's all about adding volume to the crown with mousse and a blow dryer.

  1. Air dry hair about 40 to 50 percent.
  2. Next, according to Rivera, apply "a quarter size of mousse to the palms of the hands and emulsify for even distribution through the crown."
  3. Starting at the crown of the hair, use a blow dryer and take the hair into small sections using a round brush. "Take the section straight off the head 90 degrees and rotate the brush to the scalp. Dry the hair around the brush and let cool," says Rivera. This step will give the crown the lift and hold it needs.
  4. To set the style, use a lightweight gel from the mid-shaft to the ends by "using your fingers as a diffuser; pulling the hair straight will keep the ends wispy," says Rivera. (For curly hair types, apply a small amount of serum to help straighten the ends).
  5. As a finishing touch, Rivera recommends spraying your fingertips with hairspray and twisting the ends.
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