Shubham Anil Jain
Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Limited
Bangalore, India
Email: shubhamajain125@gmail.com
Introduction:
The body of a blouse or top—the clothing item worn on the upper body—is referred to as a basic bodice. Female basic bodice block is a foundation pattern used in garment construction. A basic bodice block can be used alone or in conjunction with a sleeve block to produce blouses, shirts, dresses, blazers, jackets, and coats. It’s a terrific place to start when designing limitless outfits. Most patterns involving your top half can be started with a simple bodice block; it can be used to create tops, dresses, and shirred tops when combined with a sleeve block. Out of this block, numerous designs develop. Therefore, a bodice block made to your precise proportions is an excellent place to start if you’re ready to start creating your own patterns. Female basic bodice block is one type of pattern for creating well-fitting bodices for women’s clothing.
Figure 1: Front and Back Bodice
How to Take Female Body Measurements?
1. Circumference for form and model measurements
a) Bust (1).
It is measured across bust points and back.
b) Waist (2).
It is around waist.
c) Abdomen (3).
Basically, three inches below waist.
d) Hip (4).
While measuring this, measure the widest area with tape parallel with floor. Pin to mark hip level at center front (referred to as X-point).
Figure 2: Circumference for form and model measurements
2. Horizontal arc for form and model measurements
Front
a) Across shoulder (14).
It covers shoulder tip to center front neck.
b) Across chest (15).
It is center front to 1 inch above mid-armhole (pinhead mark).
c) Bust arc (17).
It comprise of center front, over bust point, ending 2 inches below armplate at side seam.
d) Bust span (10).
To measure this, place tape across bust points; divide in half for measurement.
e) Waist arc (19).
Measure center front waist to side waist seam.
f) Dart placement (20).
Measure center front to side front (princess line).
g) Abdomen arc (22).
Consider center front to side seam, starting 3 inches down from waist.
h) Hip arc (23).
Center front to side seam on HBL line.
i) Hip depth (25).
Center front to HBL line.
Figure 3: Front-Horizontal arc for form and model measurements
Back
a) Back neck (12).
It consists of center back neck to shoulder at neck.
b) Across shoulder (14).
Consider shoulder tip to center back neck.
c) Across back (16).
Measure center back to 1 inch above the mid-armhole at ridge of pinhead.
d) Back arc (18).
Center back to bottom of arm plate.
e) Waist arc (19).
Measure center back waist to side waist seam.
f) Dart placement (20).
Consider center back waist to side back (princess line).
g) Abdomen arc (22).
Center back to side seam, starting 3 inches down from waist.
h) Hip arc (23).
Center back to side seam on HBL line.
i) Hip depth (25).
Center back waist to HBL line.
Figure 4: Back-Horizontal arc for form and model measurements
3. Vertical measurements for form and model
a) Side length (11).
Pin mark below armplate at side seam to side waist.
b) Shoulder length (13).
Shoulder tip to neck.
c) Side hip depth (26).
Side waist to HBL, on side of form being measured.
d) Bust radius (9).
Measure from bust point ending under bust mound to rib above.
Figure 5: Vertical measurements for form and model
Front and Back—Form and Mode
a) Center length (5).
Mark neck to waist (over bridge).
b) Full length (6).
Waist to shoulder at neck, parallel with center lines.
c) Shoulder slope (7).
Center line at waist to the shoulder tip (mark).
d) Bust depth (9).
Shoulder tip to bust point.
Figure 6: Front and Back—Form and Mode
Steps for Drafting Basic Bodice Block
A. Front Bodice Block
Step 1:
A to B = Full length (6), plus 1/8″. Draw the line and label.
A to C = Across shoulder, less 1/8″ (14) Square 3 line down from C line.
B to D = Center front length (5) Mark and square out 4.
B to E = Bust arc (17), plus 1/4″. Square out from B, and then square up 11 from E.
Figure 7: Front Bodice Block (Step 1)
Step 2:
B to G = Shoulder slope (7), plus 1/8″.
G to H = Bust depth (9). Mark on the G–B line.
G to I = Shoulder length (13). Square down from I to intersect with D line.
J to K = Bust span, plus 1/4 ” (10). Square from J at center front through H to K.
D to L = One-half of D to J. Mark down from D.
L to M = Across chest, plus 1/4″ (15). Square a guideline up and down from M.
B to F = Dart placement (20) Square down 3/16″ from F.
Figure 8: Front Bodice Block (Step 2)
Step 3:
I to N = New strap, plus 1/8″. Draw line from I to intersect E line.
N to O = Side length (11).
N to P = Mark 1 1/4 inch out from N.
O to P = Side length line is directed to P, and ends when equal to N to O. Draw line from P to F.
Figure 9: Front Bodice Block (Step 3)
Step 4:
Completing waist measurement:
P to Q = Waist arc (19), plus 1/4″ ease, less B to F.
Dart legs: Draw a line from K to F and measure. Draw dart leg from K through Q equal to K to F. Label R.
Dart point: Center a point 5/8 inch from bust point. Redraw dart legs from this point to F and R.
Draw slight curved lines from B to F and R to P.
Figure 10: Front Bodice Block (Step 4)
Step 5:
Armhole: Draw armhole curve with rule touching G, M, and square line. Do not follow curve past square line.
Neckline: Draw curve from I to D passing inside the angle line by 1/8″.
Figure 11: Front Bodice Block (Step 5)
B. Back Bodice Block
Step 1:
A to B = Full length (6)
A to C = Across shoulder (14) Square 3 inches down from C.
B to D = Center back length (5) Mark and square out 4 inches.
B to E = Back arc (18), plus 3/4 inch. Square up from E.
Figure 12: Back Bodice Block (Step 1)
Step 2:
A to F = Back neck (12), plus 1/8 inch.
B to G = Shoulder slope (7), plus 1/8 inch.
F to H = Shoulder length (13), plus ½ inch. Line may pass G. Square down from F to D line.
B to I = Dart placement (20).
B to J = Waist arc (19), plus dart intake of 1 1/2″ and 1/4″ (ease).
I to K = Dart intake. Mark center and label L.
Figure 13: Back Bodice Block (Step 2)
Step 3:
J to M = Square down 3/16 inch.
M to N = Side length (11).
L to O = Square up from L 1 inch less than M to N.
Draw dart legs from O, 1/8 inch past I and K.
Draw slightly curved lines from K to M and from B to I.
Figure 14: Back Bodice Block (Step 3)
Step 4:
F to P = One-half of F to H. Mark.
P to Q = Draw a 3-inch line in the direction of point O (indicated by broken line).
P to R = 1/4 inch. Mark.
Draw dart leg from Q 1/8 inch past R and connect to F. Mark 1/4 inch from P. Draw other dart leg from Q equal to dart leg Q–R, and connect to H.
D to S = One-fourth of D to B. Mark.
S to T = Across back, plus 1/4 inch (16) Square up and down from T, as shown.
Figure 15: Back Bodice Block (Step 4)
Step 5:
Armhole: Draw armhole with the French curve touching H, T, and N. The curve should touch square line.
Neckline: Draw a 3/8-inch angle line from the corner. Draw neckline from F, angle line and ending close to D.
Figure 16: Back Bodice Block (Step 5)
Conclusion: The basic dress foundation draft serves as the first step in the pattern making introduction process. The fundamental pattern set serves as the dress’ representation and it has all the essential form dimensions. The fundamental clothing serves as the basis for pattern development, fit, and design. A front and back bodice, a front and back skirt that hangs straight from the hip, and slender full-length sleeves make up the basic dress’ five separate components. Without shaping the hollow sections, the dress follows the model’s outermost features. The bust, abdomen, buttocks, shoulder blades, and elbow bulges are all targeted by a sequence of seams on the dress. Female basic bodice block serves as a starting point for designing and adjusting different styles of tops, blouses, and dresses to fit individual body shapes.
References:
Patternmaking for Fashion Design, 5th Edition by Helen Joseph Armstrong
Founder & Editor of Textile Learner. He is a Textile Consultant, Blogger & Entrepreneur. He is working as a textile consultant in several local and international companies. He is also a contributor of Wikipedia.
