SKP MAGAZINE / ISSUE#14 / BEIJING IN BLOOM

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FASHION WINTER 2017

ISSUE #14 ᔕₗ㐀䘡ห़

‫ק‬Ω ㈸⠆л 䌳

䐉़

BEIJING IN BLOOM 䑉٢ SKP















W W W.C E L I N E .C O M


















{ S K P } ज㐸䌈

щ₀℃䌈 As SKP Beijing prepares to celebrate another blooming anniversary, SKP

䔐䔲К≤ SKP ₇ⅲ䉂ট䊃䅢۱㒙ᡶ││֥䕱⢓ㅷ䔥

Magazine is extremely happy to present a special issue devoted to the

℉ SKP 䍴䕁หљջট䅢づ㤈۳К≤በ㠡ㅹԷ䈁⁑৯

flowering creativity of Beijing as a city. In the three years of the magazine’s

֥ห़b䎁䍴䕁Է़֥㊈⢓┢ 䒃㌷㑧㐸Ց㜃ጇ≦㦃

existence, this is the very first Beijing issue, prepared with loving care. True

䘳С֥К≤ห₀b䕡㐄䊇㠉ૌ㉓⁀‫ת‬㡆֥≦㍰ Чづ

to our East-meets-West ethos, we invited French photographer Jérôme

䍴䕁หљ䄲ㅶਔ‫م‬ᡵ㍖䉅㎉ Jérôme Galland ট֞

Galland to visit Beijing and immerse himself in the city’s contemporary

К≤ Ӧ≕䊇䒃䚔በ㐱֥֒ս䆈㑨ᙐ㝦䕙 䎙٠ਔ㑶

art scene, visiting some of the most exciting spaces and meeting some

۱ⁱᔘ㈸㦃֥ॢℵ 䌄㑶㞆䕙ᡵ‫פ‬₉䆈㑨℗‸૫ Ї

of China’s leading artists, including the great Qiu Zhijie, who opens the

ও䎁Чづ䍴䕁䕙㤵㠉ૌሩषញ䚒㐳ն❢֥䖙⠖䆈㑨

doors to his studio in this issue. The results, as you’ll discover in these

℗ㆂ䕁∡b䔐㉦⤉ⅲ䎁㤗ᡁ⡷㞕䕙㕦ु֥֞ 䒃㥖٠

pages, are truly special.

㠁䌄‸૫֥∦ᡶ㐢㎗ᙑ䈨㈸づր֥b

In another great East-meets-West spectacular, we are overjoyed to

ਸ਼䅢۱‫ת‬㡆ↈ㉓֥ૅᤔ㐀ख़ ㈰㠉ૌ㎗ᙑ㉒㦗ֹᦕ

welcome as our cover star international supermodel He Cong, who

䉂Чづᙣ૫⤧ 㦆aᡵ℉ ӑ⠢ ᤵՒ 㕰䎁 ∦ 㑱 㕰 ۱㈸

posed for our flower-themed story with photographer Thomas Schenk

ゖ≂㝩䔶䚃Ӯទ֥ᡵ℉㐀䘡ₗᥢ≇24㥈㐀 ⌀䌄㍖

barely 24 hours after finishing one of her most successful international

䉅㎉ Thomas Schenk ᤦ䚒㜹Ӯਔ㠉ૌՎՑ䆇ᦁ‫أ‬

fashion seasons to date – once again, the Hunan-born model ranked

㝩䖘 ี ֥ն 〙bՖ ⤙ 䍑֞µ ┕Է 㢇≓4 0ሢ ֥ ό ㈸

among the Top 10 most sought-after models, walking close to 40 shows

֥䙨 䀔℆♙ 䒃㞆ጇ㍹䊇ᥳ⡦֥⠢ ห䎀Ց 瑰㍦㈆ㆃ

between New York and Paris. He Cong’s unique beauty, both powerful

䚃㑃䘨⦘֥㎗ն⠢ห䔥ਙbᤵՒㄲն㈕→㉠֥ᔵห

and fragile, is the perfect expression of the "Blooming Odyssey" theme

ૅ ᜹ 㐢 S K P 䕱⢓ㅷ䖘 ีo䑉 ٢ S K Pp֥㜹ૅ ุ㤇

that once again mark’s SKP’s anniversary.

㉦ᡶ㒘ᤵՒ䚒㝩֒㢇䚃ऎսі㦙a䚃ᠡ㠱㈸㦃֥⤧

If He Cong is SKP Magazine’s choice as the most iconic and inspiring of the

㦙૫।㐢 SK P 䍴 䕁֥䁂 䐄 ⡘હЧ़䅓ջটਔّ䉈

female faces of the moment, this issue also brings a reflection of your own

⤉۱㈸㡱ι֥䁂䐄i iSKP 㐸∷ૅৡ㎅ᑷ֥⁔ⅸӁ

favourites, with the winning products of the very first SKP Beauty Awards. Our

〰bSKP ᠨग़㚇〤֥㑶ਈᤤ䕙ड़ᕃ۳㠉ૌ֥䘓℗〹㍲

specialist jury were impressed with the volume and relevance of votes from

㜂☡㢇ਔ㍧ख़֥䈰㤶 ⢆ૌ֥䁂䐄䅓ุ㤇䎁҂㙷ⅸ㤱

SKP customers, which are reflected in the choice of the different prizes.

֥⁔ⅸ⠖ֆ䕙b

May this growing relationship continue to bloom for many more special issues.

SKP MAGAZINE TEAM

32

䍇䒃ᙘ᠃㙷Ӯሥ֥ㅖ➅ᡁ㡴ℑ䀵䎁≂ᥢ֥۷‫؟‬ห₀ 䕙䑉٢b

SKP 䍴䕁щ₀㜂ᕔ



{ S K P } ⡆ᥢ㜂ᕔ

Maud Vantours и䅖䊇µ┕᝔֩䈵䉤䆈㑨䁈䍉 ESAA 䔦〰₃૫ਘ ㍡℅䘓䅖 ふᥢ₇Ӯ㝩䙗䉰㍡℅㎉bMaud 䆇䕀䑔䚒㝩䖘䅅Է䚒ᅣ ਘ Ґ䉤҂㙷֥ₕㅂ ⁕䑶⁕⅑ ⁕০䉤Ҫ‫ן‬㥔ᡶ 䑂㐓䕀ᅣ֥㝇䕥 ᙨㅴb㕰֥ᅤᦃ᤹␥Ф㤰䌣ᡵ℉֥〰⥑䘇䈁֞ Ӯ㝩⊁㤗㑃䄲䑂ጇ ֥ᕕ㤶b䎁Ч़ᤖ䕙 㕰∦ᤦ䑶䕀ᤤ䕀‫ג‬䆈㑨 䆇oᦁ‫أ‬p䚒㝩Է䚒 䌳㔳 ৳㐷≳㠸㍖䉅ն㎉յ䎙䖄Џն〙 䑂㤇≦䑈Ղ㑙֥ₕㅂᤤ⁸

Чづ䍴䕁⡆ᥢ㈸㠸ห㥧

᜘Է䈁֥䆈㑨ਲ᜹b 䚒㝩䆈㑨 Ⅹ䘅 ㍹⁑ᘦ㐒֩␠∲ਵ䌑֥℆䒀 Caroline Boudehen 䎁㌶ᢂ䒃䚔⁀₂ਔ㕰‫؟‬ᘦ㈵ㅴ֥በ㐱┢䑧֞ਔ৫䙲ׄb㝩ਔЧ ़oBeijing in Bloom 䑉٢SKPpห₀ 㕰ջਵ㠉ૌ䅢㙷ฐ䙢≤በ֥ ֒ս䆈㑨㐕∲ 䘓٠Їওㆂ䕁∡䎁⡷֥䆈ฆᙨ䍡㈸㠸 ਵ⚃ᥕ䘔ૅ 㑨ᡆ֥㤇ս‫ת‬ᘦ癈৯b㕰㝩 SKP 䍴䕁បᝠ䔥䊓 䐅䎁۱㈸㝡Ѱ〶㕹 ㌶г۶ğcarnetsdeshanghai.comb ી䉷㐁હ㍖䉅䖘ี⡨֤֚ Jérôme Gallandb䎁Ⅹ䘅㍡℅ ょंॢ ℵ ≳㠸 ૅ㐂 㥑㤴 ᙨ≱֩Їઅ㝇㤶֥ਵ䌑┢ 㕨ᔱ․㊂䙗㉦b䒃 㞆‫م‬ᡵ㍖䉅㎉䙥㐢ᔗ֤ᖙ․฿ᜐ 㕨֥㐄৯䅓䎁Чづ䆇К≤䚒㝩 䕙㦃䖘ี़֥ᤖ䕙֤֞⅘䔕bJérôme 㑃֞ Air France Magazine

҃≱㍡℅㎉ MAUD

VANTOURS

℆䒀 CAROLINE

l’Express Styles ֥㝴㉁ ᦖ䉵㐕∲۲ֹ≉㦕⥉㍖Б֡ 䉵┳ᡸㄈ㌘㝇

BOUDEHEN

㒑֥㕨ᕕᙨᡑ⠒ૉ֥Ѣ֛ㅴ䉷ᔵ䕢b 㐀㌷Ӂ䅖֥❱ 䔧䅖㍹䁷㐢ᙸթ䎁Ĥ䉷֥ĆConstance Féral ⌀㐢 䚃ᤔ֥䔕⠒bՖ㈆ㆃ㞖⠖֥ École du Louvreč♃ᚒភ䁈䍉Ďи䅖 ᥢđ㕰Ӯ㝩㐀㉁ Balenciaga Է䈁䙥ℱ֥ Nicolas Ghesquière ֥ ֤৯䘁㐷bConstance ᦘ≉㉰䔡⠖֥ Brachfeld ᡒѬ䌄ૂุ䕉䚒 ព㔇│⁦≨䄔 䔥ᥢ᤹␥⌀Ӯ㝩㐀㌷䙥щ Carine Roitfeld ሥղ㔓 ⢓֥㐸㡨䘁┠ 㤇䎁 㕰䌄 Peter Lindbergh Josh Olins ֩‫פ‬ ₉㐀㌷㍖䉅ն㎉➅ㅉᤦ䚒 䘓㝩‫م‬ᡵϱ ⠖০ሢ CR Fashion Book ₃ SKP 䍴䕁֩㐀㌷㈃㝙ૂุបᝠb䎁Чづ䕙 㕰㝩㠉ૌյ䎙ਔ 䅆䄀ᕨ⡐֥䖄Џն〙b

㍖䉅㎉ JÉRÔME

GALLLAND

䎙㦒㎉ CONSTANCE

FÉRAL

⁑䍓䊇⤙ 䍑䌄µ┕֥㉈Ч㍖䉅㎉ Kanji Ishii 㐢䅖⡷≳ 㠸 ㍖䉅 ㎉䕙֥䠂䠂䒀b䎁Чづ䍴䕁䕙 㕨หֹ㝩 SKP ૅৡ㎅ᑷ ห₀䕙 ֥sૅ䘢䒐䁂t䑕≶b〶㐀 㕨ફ䊇㝩 Chanel Estée Lauder 㐀 Kanji ‸ℨ㐐䙂㕨25䈱ኄሥ֥ Catalina ‫و‬ጧᦖ⤙䍑ᝐᤈ㦕⁕ 㐢ℨ㐐٦⁣ϊ㤥ড฿ Thomas Schenk 䆇ѽ䘴㒕ℵ֥ૅᤔ₃䙗㈢֥⁑৯‫ط‬㞖⠖ᡵ℉b㕨 㝩Чづ֥ᦁ䄰ᙣ૫ᠧ㐗䑕≶ 㝩ᤵՒ㕦㊑䈆֥䙗㈢ૅ≆㌶เᦁb䒃 㞆ሥづ㝩 Purple ₃ Details បᝠ ѩ䌄 Hermès ᤤ Saint Laurent ֩ ‫פ℗؟‬₉㐀䘡㠠ᤦ䚒֥ૅᡵ㐀㌷㍖䉅ն㎉đ⡐ㄗ‫ंק‬ύֹ০bጔ Վ䔥㜱 㕨ᦘ䕅৯䊇ᦖЌa䉡䀵≨䈹֥㜃ᔘb䅖䊓㐀ℵ 㕨䘓㦃⦀ဒ

㍖䉅㎉ KANJI

ISHII

㍖䉅㎉ THOMAS

₃䑰ᠨᢁ䙖 ু䎁ふ䕙b

SCHENK

34

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷Ġḡ $0-*/& #6)"/

YSL Harr y Winston ֩ᡵ℉䅢㤖〰⥑⁕䍴䕁≉㦕⥉㍖ ‫ط‬䀈ℤ



{SKP}MASTHEAD

# 14 ֻ㎗㔓づ WINTER 2017 ᔕₗ़

www.skp-m a ga zin e.c o m

N O . 87 , J I A N G U O

К≤ SKP S K P B E I J I N G К≤ᦃ৳ (S K P ) Ϥ⁘䉷㤕ព㔇 B E I J I N G H U A L I A N ( S K P ) D E PA R T M E N T S T O R E C O ., LT D . К≤㐱Ӕ䄥ㆉⅩᡵਫ਼ 87 ᤖ 䉱щ 100025 R OA D , C H AOYA N G D I S T R I C T , B E I J I N G 100025 , C H I N A ᒀᦉ T E L : (+86 ) 10 6530 5888 WWW.SKP-BEIJING.COM 䈹䅖㐀ℵ O P E N I N G H O U R S : 10:00-22:00

䖘ᡅ S U P E R V I S O R ≨ℂ㉈Б㍠ 䖘ပ S P O N S O R 䔕㈐㉈Б㍠ ጇϱֆ㞆 P U B L I S H I N G H O U S E 䆈㑨䌄㍡℅䍴䕁㍠䉷㤕ព㔇 ᡵ⡷㚄䅢़ᤖ N AT I O N A L S TA N DA R D C O D E : C N 11-3909 / J ᡵ℉ѓ䘳़ᤖ I N T E R N AT I O N A L S TA N DA R D I S S N : 1008-2832 䙥щ E D I T O R G E N E R A L ㄕ䖒 ᡒᝡ≨䈹䀤⎐䔕 A DV E R T I S I N G C E R T I F I C AT E : ≤㡆ញ㌳ᡒ䙙ֻ 8039 ᤖ

ᜨ⢗㍡℅ C R E AT E D BY MIXT(E) ÉDITIONS 22, rue Saint-Augustin 75002 Paris France + 33 (0) 1 83 95 42 08 Էပ㈸ F O U N D E R S Tiziana Humler-Ravera, Christian Ravera, Guy Guglieri 䍴䕁䙥≨┠ G E N E R A L

M A N AG E R A N D M A R K E T E D I T O R Tiziana

Է䈁䙥ℱ C R E AT I V E

DIRECTORS

䑆⚃ᠨ㠁 㤱⡐䙥ℱ S T R AT E GY 䖘щ E D I T O R

Humler-Ravera

Christian Ravera, Guy Guglieri

C O N S U LTA N T / P R O J E C T D I R E C T O R

IN CHIEF

Lili Chen

Nathalie Fraser

㐀䘡䙥ℱ FA S H I O N D I R E C T O R Franck Benhamou 㐀䘡䙥ℱ䘁┠ A S S I S TA N T T O FA S H I O N D I R E C T O R L oyc Falque ૅ㉖щ₀ B E A U T Y

Nathalie Desanti

EDITOR

ૅ㑨䙥ℱ A R T D I R E C T O R Fred Auniac ૅ㑨щ₀ G R A P H I C D E S I G N E R S Bérengère Marcé, Salomé Socroun ⥉㍖㚄ጀ≨┠ P R O D U C T I O N M A N AG E R Vanessa Perez 䁂∀䙥ℱ C A S T I N G D I R E C T O R Gwen Frechet @Amadeus Castings ㍖䉅 P H O T O G R A P H E R S Gilles Bensimon, Jérôme Galland, Kanji Ishii, Vincent L eroux, Thomas Schenk ℆䒀 J O U R N A L I S T S Catherine Ardouin, Caroline Boudehen, François Castrillo, Colette Marc 㞕σ䘖㥧/‫ي‬䈐㥐ᕕ C O P Y

EDITORS

㤱⡐䙥ℱ ᅥ㡀≨┠ P R O J E C T

/

T R A N S L AT I O N

DIRECTOR

/

Ling Monge, Wenfei Xu

F I N A N C E M A N AG E R

Patrick Hanzo

䕙ᡵㆉᡒᝡ䙥ս┠ C H I N A A DV E R T I S I N G R E P R E S E N TAT I V E 晡㌘ᡒᝡጦૂč㌶ᢂĎ䉷㤕ព㔇 C E S A N A M E D I A I N T L . A D . (S H A N G H A I ) C O ., LT D . 䙥ᅢ P R E S I D E N T ᘦ㔅ট Fausto Tatarella 䙥≨┠ G E N E R A L M A N AG E R ┡ ≤৯ Maggie Li К≤ B E I J I N G : (+86 )10 6588 0051 ㌶ᢂ S H A N G H A I : (+86 ) 21 3477 2472 ᡒᝡ䙥ℱ A D D I R E C T O R Arthur Sun ᝔₉ᡒᝡ≨┠ S E N I O R A D M A N AG E R Jason Yan ᡒᝡ㚄ጀ A D C O O R D I N AT O R S Emily Ji, Nancy Guo ᙑ㌀䕉ϱ R E P R O G R A P H I C S Wands, Paris ӵ䈰 P R I N T I N G C O M PA N Y К≤০‫پ‬䁸᝔ሥበ䈰㑹䉷㤕ព㔇

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TOURBILLON“POUR LE MÉRITE” 㢇㚓䉹䅢Ď㝩⒅ᝲ䊇1994⢓㜃ጇ֥㐸❇ ‫گ‬䍴ទ⡹㝈і ⦁С㜖٦⚅䌄䔖ઐ╗ጦ ᔘ∦᠐đふ13䈱ժሥ֥╗่䉐䉷636۱ ਬⅡ ㈆҆䉰㈸ញ䙸䘡b䎁2016⢓㉈⡷㜨 ֥᜘䆈㔂䕢і⥉છ‸㌶đ䅢❇ѳ≁␧䆇 243,800⤶䌳䆐㐷 䈆Ω341 b

֣㐒Ω䔲 㐕∲‫פ‬₉䕢і〰⥑

Ф䌣㝩֣ᡵ≓ս䕢і䔥᜕֥⒅ᝲ㢓㍹ 㕑ьष㐑ਔ䕢і䁈 㡩㍹䁷 䊇 ⢓ष㍡ਔ䙗ₓ֥䕉іញᘤb㕨҂≇ⅲព䕉 ҩਈѓ䘳䌄֒㐀䚃㝩㢓≉֥℘ញₕ㑨Ֆ䕉іᖙղֹㆉ䈨㉰ ֣ᡵ 㙷㐀ष㍡䁈㥐⥷䄩䕉і㈸ᅤb≨┳ਔጆづ֥ℹ⡨㕑䍗 ᥢ ᝲঘ㔰ᑦ҂≇Ӯ㝩ਔ֣ᡵ֥䕢і䔥ᔱ 㙷㐀䅓Ӯ㝩ਔ⤶䕳 䕉і䕧䒙䔥䅢b ⢓ ⒅ᝲ㢓㍹┘㐕 㕨֥ਆ۱‫ظ‬䙖 ┠Ұ ֣䌄η➀ 㒖০−ᡅਔព㔇 ѩⅲ〰⥑㜃㤵ਔ㐕∲㠱㕹 䎁Ӧ℄ਔ≓ ⢓ᥢ ⒅ᝲ℗䙴ֻ֥㔓ս㜨‫غ‬หc⒅ᝲ㢓㍹䎁 ⢓䀸҃⒅ᝲ⤈𔁡䕧㍹bӑᡸ ⢓֥ৣ≦㚓䕗 ≂฿֥ ⒅ᝲ䆄≨瑰㍦䊇㐕∲‫פ‬₉䕢і〰⥑䔥ਙ ֣ᡵ䕉䎙䌄≦➅䕉 і䎁㐀᝵န۱㐕ℒᥢ䎀Ց䉷ਔ枓ဖ

⁸ⅉ䌄䕄َ

⒅ᝲіી䉷ぷ䈑֥㜱㦓 䅓᤹⡨䑧֞ᕕ㜱֥॔㍐ᦃ䘡㐩 ₇ ь䉷䙂҂㙷֥㡴ਙ ⎐㕩ૌ㈕䉷䙂᝔ᕃ֥䅢䕅㦙 ы䍁֥䘀 㦒ุ॔ 䕱㍦䆇ঘ㔈յ⠤䀉㐩 䎀⦁䆇≶૫⥨ᡑ֥і㈁䌄ՙ 䘤֥і‫ ع‬ⅉֆ֥㤖่᠅ীጇ⒅ᝲ䙗䉷ᙨᝲ я㐅ᕃ⁸᝔ ⁣ 㥷㐢⁣㥨㝈і֥ਲ⁇ ⒅ᝲ≂฿֥ ⅴᥳֹ㞆 䖘䅅ᡘទ䊇 ᕕ⁣㥷䕄َ֥⎂ㆄ Ֆૄ䅢❇⚒㔈֥㍂ড ૄ䅢֡ℕϰ㌶֥‫ג‬ख़ ૄ䅢ጡш䍄֥ ≶૫յ⠤ ⡢䕄䅢❇⁣㥷֥ਆՑ䙸䘡 ⒅ᝲ䅧㈢䅢㔈҂᠇֥ 䚆䁔䙂Ϥ⢓ㄗ֥ↀ㈸≦㍰ 䅓䔐㐢䆇Վ㝩䌶ᔘ৯ Ֆ ⢓֞㤇䎁 ⒅ᝲ҂ᕐ㑹㦁䙂㠉ૌᕕ䊇㝈іૅ䁈֥㉂䔡đՖ ष㌘䔥䚒⒅ᝲ ᤖ‫ק‬䈄ਔ֣㐒〘㦃㍡℅ ֞ %"50(3"1) Ӯ 㝩㐷ᔘ℅㐀㝈і֥ૅ䁈ᑷᘙ 䎀֞ ; & * 5 8 & 3 , 䈨ਵ֥ 㝈і㑶䙙ᦈ㤅㐓Ӗੀ / &7 &3 45" / % 45 * -- b


ZEITWERK STRIKING TIME 㑶䙙ᦈ 㤅㐓㝈і

L A N G E 1 ⒅ ᝲ1ᤖ 㝈 і ⠖ਙ 〰 ⥑ 䕙䚃 ≨ ᑷ ֥㡴 ਙ 㝈 і 䔥䅢 Ֆ 1 9 9 4 ⢓ 䂒 䀵 䕄≂ づℵ䉐 䉷䕩‫؟‬ ֥ ห 㑉 ␧ 㐒 ᐠ ‫ ؟‬㑶 㝩 ۷   і ⥗ ֥ 㦓 㐒 b2 0 1 3 ⢓ ᜦ 㡴 ਙ 䕤 䊇 䉂 ট ਔ ⁣ 㥷 ֥ 㐸 Ց   ս ѩ 㝩 Վ 㜃 ጇਔG R A N D LANGE 1 “LUMEN” 䚒 㝩ℒ ⢗ 2 01 5⢓ 9䍗⤙ 䍑 ν ּ ᠢ ⚆ G R A N D L A NGE 1“ LU M E N ” 䈆 Ω122 Ӯↈ

DATAGRAPH UP&DOWN 㐷ᔘ℅㐀㝈і

GRAND LANGE 1 “LUMEN” 㤕ਈ䅠ᡑ㝈і

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֥Ӯ⁵ਔbਸ਼䅢ᘦ૫đ㝈і֥䐉䔲䎁≂ ฿㝔㝔䀙䅅₂も᤹‫؟‬䈗㔳đб㉦๔Ӂđ 㤕ਈđ‫פ‬₉〰⥑đᔵห֥ₕ㑨⁕┳㐆 ᠧ㐗֩b⒅ᝲ֥‫؟‬㑶㝈і㐢㤗ᕕЌ䔲 ֥đ‫ط‬䎁䐉䔲֥䒃۱Ҫ૫đ䔸䉷䅢㥖ห 㑉␧㐒ᅤ⎐䆇㐄㤇b 䎁≂฿đ⒅ᝲ䅧㈢㝱ት䙂ૄ⢓㑶ㄈ❇ 䆇⡷֥Ӂਈđ㜂ᕔ䆇䕉і㎉㝩䖘ุđु ҂֞け฿ᜰֹ֥ᡒᝡđ䅓䑧҂֞㒐㝩 ⒅ᝲ≉㦕ս䂓đ䎁␥∙䙩㐱ሢӖੀ֥ ֒㢇㐢ᢖ⅘֥b⌀㤴䕉іն㎉䅢‫ק‬䅅 ⡤֤䘆℄⠴đ⒅ᝲ㐢㕵㐄֥đν≳֥đ 㙷䄰đ䅓㐢䔲֤づր֥b


{SKP}CONTENTS 䒇㔈৵䅩㈠ PRADA. ґ䘢ิប GIORGIO ARMANIğέઑ⢄ ㅦᑹ≦ᦃᙖָ䅡aέઑ⢄䒐䕅䎙㦒ૅ杖᝕#04a έઑ⢄ㅦӮ刕ґ㔷杖䅡 #16aέઑ⢄㥈⥧‫נ‬㈥Հ䅡 #506. ㍖䉅 THOMAS SCHENK 䎙㦒 FRANCK BENHAMOU. ⠢ห HE CONG @ IMG MODELS.

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㍖䉅 Thomas Schenk

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㍖䉅 Gilles Bensimon

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40



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46

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≨ᑷ ㈢㦁㍹ ㈆㦁㝇Џ☧⠒㦆㡴ਙ㝈і 㝇Џ☧䕧㔷⠒㦆㡴ਙ㝈іđ䆇ᔵหa≦䕅a 䉡᥆֥㍡℅ᡕᘙ䕅≵䒃䅢〰⥑ѓ䕁㦙㝈і㡴ਙb㈆㦁⠒㦆㡴ਙ ਲ᜹䍃䙗Է৫䊇 ⢓֥ૅ⡤ᦃіӌ֥‫پ‬᜘䕉і≨䄔 ⅲ㉵㐔᝔₉䕉іጦ㚄䘇㉰㈆㦁䘓০䙗䕉‫گ‬䍴ទ⡹䔥䕙 䕅≵䙗㦄 ㅑ〰㞁ᔵऎ֥㝇Џ☧㦁⡧㈸


䍗㤗㝈і

䚆䁔⠒㦆㡴ਙ㍡℅ᡕᘙ Ч␧㝈 і䉐䉷䉦䁸֥ੁ䅗㦓䔵䒒 䈣Ϣ㌀ і⥗㐩䉷㝇Џ☧≨ᑷੂ∀Ϣ㦆慩 椂㚓σbふ㕨㍡℅㡷∙Їও 䄤Փ 㦓іᡃaํᡡ㐒ᙑ䕢ख़ᕃ㈁a䄥 ख़ᚒ‫ג‬Ď 䆇₃䍃䊇ૅ⡤ᦃᦒіѩ ≨䕧㦁㍡℅֥έঘѵ㑶䙙㐀ѓb

ֆф䀹ᚒ㜱䕆␱℧ 㜖٦⚅㝈і

㈆㦁㝇Џ☧⠒㦆㡴ਙֆф䀹ᚒ㜱 䕆␱℧㜖٦⚅㝈іč㤕ਈ ❇Ď 䑒 㤅 ≨ ᑷ ૅ 䁈 ㍡ ℅ጦ 㚄 đѩ ⅲ ᝔₉䕉іញ䆈ิ㎂䕄㈆㦁᝔ᕃđ 䔐㉦֒≂⢓ㅦ䅢ս⎂ㆄ㚒ぅa҂ ᕐ⥕֥֨≦㍰〰䕓b㈆㦁䘓০ֆ ф䀹ᚒ㜱䕆␱ ℧ 㜖٦⚅ ‫ گ‬䍴 䘡 䕆 㜹㈆䉰㝇 Џ ☧㝱 ঞ‫غ‬і ӌ֥ 䕉іն㎉┳≨㊈⢓䙗䖘䂉䕉 ≇ 㤕ਈ ❇ 䆇 Վ䕅≵䊇 ⢓ ᐣ㍹䙗㝱ঞ‫غ‬䒙֥㝇Џ☧іӌb

㝩ㅷ䘈⠒㦆㡴ਙ㠁㐕 䕱⢓đ㝇Џ ☧ጦӵૅ⡤ᦃ٤ُ᝔₉䕉іጦ㚄đ 䆇㈆㦁㐀℅䄂䈔〰⥑ѓ䕁㦙㝈і㡴 ਙđ㜃ጇ㉈┳䙗ᔘ㌶╗a䍗㤗₃ֆф 䀹ᚒ㜱䕆␱℧㜖٦⚅֩㑶␧㝈і㦁 〰đૄ䅢␧नձ⦁҂㙷і॔ᅣ䕓ᤤ ‫؟‬䕥і≷ኄժčՖ ᤒ➀䕄 ᤒ ➀Ďđ㠡ં㐢ញ䚒ሢᤦᦘ㐢䀈㤁㐀 ᡑđ㝩֒ս㦁⡧㈸۷เ䙗㦄a䙗䔡䌄 Ӯ㑙ᙨᕃb㈆㦁㝇Џ☧⠒㦆㡴ਙ㝈 і֥ૄ䅢ጡ㡷∙∓ุ㤇ጇ㝇Џ☧ጇ 䕩֥ૅ䁈㍡℅䌄∡ጇ֥䕉іₕ䆈đѩ 䆇㢕⠒֥ѓ䕁㦙㍡℅㈰⦂պ䒀≖㤅 ҂⌃䅢ᝲa≦䕅䉦䁸֥ᙨᝲ㖃ᕃb

〷∳‫ ҆ ؟‬䉦 䀔䉅 㐴䚒〰‫ط‬㍧ ㉰ ㈸㦃aС 㑃 䎅 䌣֥ 䄙䄤䌄 㝇 Џ☧㉶䈁Է㦁a҂ ᕐ⥕ ֨ ֥≦㍰㦓 㤶㜹ૅ をᤦđ䈗Վ㑃䄲 Ӯ㝩〰⥑ ն㐈b

㉈┳䙗ᔘ㌶╗㝈і

㉈┳䙗ᔘ㌶╗㝈і㐢Ч㡴ਙ䕙䚃 㝩Ղե֥䅢␧㐀℅ ℷऎ⠒㦆㡴 ਙ%/"֥ⅉ⠒㍡℅☕䒃␧㐀℅ 䉩㝩䉦䁸Ղե 㠡ં㐢ញ䚒ሢᤦ ᦘ㐢䀈㤁㐀ᡑ न㝩㝇Џ☧㦁⡧ ㈸䐉เ䙗㦄䌄Ӯ㑙֥ᔵห䍰㞁b


{ S K P } ㍡℅㎉ऊↆ

CÉLINE BIG BAG նЇ㦁≨ᑷ

䚒㝩䉦䁸ᑷᘙ֥ CÉLINE ᕕ䊇Է㦁 䙥㐢҂䅲䊓৯b䒃℗‫م‬ᡵ㐀䘡㠠䎁≂ ⢓ㆀᔕ㜃ጇ₂≨ᑷ䎙㦒ᤤ㐄䉤ទ⡹ 䊇䅢㍦֥㈆㦁Ї␧đ㈰㈸ડᦒづր

52


{ S K P } ㍡℅㎉ऊↆ

Céline 2017 ㆀᔕT㕹㌶≥䄃㈆ሢ֥⠩ᡸ 䊇䒃䅢䔸㉖ਈ ӑ նa】ᝰ㉠㉲aゕሢ㎗ 䙲֥ӑն㐷տi iBig Bagb䚒㝩〰⥑ ѓ䕁Ї␧ Luggage ֥≦ґэ䙩㆑ 㦁 ␧ Big Bag 䂒䀵ਔ≨ᑷ T 㦒∀Ӫ㍡℅ ձ ⦁ ѓ 䕁㦙 】ᝰ 㑱 ջ₃䅢 ุ㐒㐷ѣ㍡ ℅ 】ᝰш䍄หљ䚑㠡䉴шጡ┠đ㚒㤅 䒃䅢㡴ਙ㕇㦙҂枓֥ᙨᝲbBig Bag 㡴 ਙ䊇2018䎔Խ㡴ਙ㜃ጇ۷‫؟‬Ї㦒 ۷㐥 ᤦ䂀䕳⤧㦙֥㥈ᤖ₃ㅦ ь֥㒑㚁Ї ␧ 㐒 ਆ䕥␧㐒न䉷ℸջ␧⎐ប䁂䐄bЧ 䍗 Céline ⅲ䒃۱㈆䔀㉖ਊ㤗䅢ੌ䕙๖ 】ऎਢ㐀ᜨ⢗ᒃ ☕䘨ㆄ㐀㌷䌄〰䕓֥⤉ ੱ㢓Ӯ㝩ֻ䅢〃М䙂 Big Bag ㈀ញ䚒a‸ 䉸aⅢ㍦ᤤ੪㦕֥㐀癢㈸㐔b

BIG BAG 㐀䘡䕱∕⥉

MICRO LUGGAGE 㡴ਙ㐷տ

BUCKET WITH STRAP 㐷տ

BIG BAG 㡴ਙ BUCKET 㐷տ

&( /,1 ( ㈆ㆃ㐸℗ 】ऎ㤕㐀ᜨ⢗ᒃ ੱ㢓֨ሢ 㐀ℵğ 䍗 ㉈ 䍗 ㉈ ֹׄğК≤6.3䅢Ҫ䕙๖ BIG BAG 㡴ਙ㐷տ

53


{ S K P } ㍡℅㎉ऊↆ

RISING

STARS ⠒㉈䔥㦆

䕙ᡵ䆄䉠㤇ጇ䅢〃∡ጇ֥㦁㉶㍡℅㈸ᅤ 㕨ૌ䎁ᡵ℉䖘ੀ㍡℅նⅸ֥ ∀䖑䕙㜔䉆‫ط‬ጇ 䆙䎁⤶䕳֥㍥䑂㕹㌶ն٢䈑ґ SKP 䍴䕁䌄 䑔″㌘ᤤӧ䀩䔥 䒃ਆ۱䎁㐀㌷∲㢑ょѯন֥㦁≑㍡℅㎉ ≉㦕ਔᕕᦉ 䘖㞕 François Castrillo & Nathalie Fraser

54


{ S K P } ㍡℅㎉ऊↆ

〰 ⥑ Xu Z h i ֥䖘 ┠ ㈸ ӧ 䀩䔥ᤤ䑔 ″ ㌘⁕䀤㙷䄰 ⢓ ㅦ ᔱ и 䅖䙗⚆ ᕙ䕙 䄖 ㎈ઔ‫נ‬䁈 䍉 ㅑ䉷 䙂 㙷 䄰 ֥䕙ᡵ М≱ ᐠ ਆ ㈸ ֥㍲ૅ ㆙ 㞁 ㈕ 㐢 ն 㤗 ≷ ๖bㄗ 䒀 ֥ 䚒〰 ّ䉈 ጇ۷ ऎ 㐄 䄔 㦙 ‫ط‬㡥 ০ ֥㢓ᙧゕ 䕓bᕕՎ ふ䎁Է৫〰⥑ㄗ䐑㝩䆇Է䈁㞖⠖ ֥ Jonathan Anderson 䌄 Craig Green 㥔৯֥≨┳ទ҂⎐ ીĠᥢ䒀۷℘‫؟‬ґϪ斕a۷㝩㚐㤅⤧㦙ゕ䕓֥㍡℅ᙨᝲ ุ㤇ਔ 䎁µ┕䚃᜘㎅⠖֥‫פ‬₉᝔‫ק‬ញᘤ֥ញ䚒≨䄔ᕕふӁ㍹֥䉅㤩 㕨ૌ≖㤰ᢂ⡷㜱㐗䅖᠃㙷षᦁ֥Ӯទ㡱䍘 ҂≇㍧㑃′䄀ᔵऎ

ট䙗䕙ᡵ֥ӧ䀩䔥₃۱㈸〰⥑ XU ZHI ֥17/18ㆀᔕ 㡴ਙčЧ䅔₃䚈䅔䚈Ďb䚈䅔䉹䐅㝩䑔″㌘㜃ጇ֥ 17/18 ㆀᔕ㐀䘡䚒〰

֥ SKP ᠨग़₃ᡵ⡷⠖ੀ֥㡱ι 䅓ᡒ㝩ᡵ℉ૂุ䌄䅖⡷㈸㐔㕦㥹 ㌴bਆ㈸न䐑㉰㝦 LVMH ㍡℅նⅸิ⠖⠖ֆč䑔″㌘䊇2015⢓㉰ 㝦 ӧ䀩䔥䊇 2016 ⢓㉰㝦Ď ㅑ䑔″㌘䆄Ӯ㝩ぃऎ䉅㤩৯֥u㐀䘡 ㌳䅖〹ંv oBoF 500p㌶ဠ⠖㈸䔥䅢bՖ䒃㥖䒘‫ٹ‬㈸㦃֥⢓ㅦᅤ म㍦㌶ 䕙ᡵ㞕ᦈ䎁21㐕ℒ㈆ㆃ㐀㌷ਵ䌑䕙㕦ं֥ᤢ㦃ֹ㞆⎐⅘ 䅢Ϫb㈰㠉ૌ㐘⡐䆇րll

ӧ䀩䔥 ㍹䊇䕙ᡵ֥⢆㝩㐁હ䁂䐄䊇⚆ᕙ䕙䄖㎈ઔ‫נ‬䁈䍉⌀ᔶ⡵Ĥ䒃㕦 䆈㑨䌄㍡℅䁈䍉㐢ᙸ‫ژ‬ᤦ⢆֥䌧づĤ 㠉Ֆ㥈⌀ᕕ䆈㑨Է䚒᤹᜹㦐㆙b䔥ᥢ㠉䎁㍧倴֥䅢㕦䈱ᡵ䕙䁈 ⌀ᔶ ֒㐀֥䆈㑨֝㎉䎁㠉㍣ㅶն䁈㐀 ᠡৣ㠉䎁䒃ᘦ૫٢㐷䅢 㐵b҂ં㐢⚆ᕙᦘ㐢㎈ઔ‫נ‬ᔱ䍅䍅ӑጇਔ㠉֥䌧づ 䒃┢б㠉㤨 㤶֥۷䉷㍹ゕᤤ⁑৯b 㐢㐁હ䄰֥ᜨ⢗ᤤ≨┳㔷䎙ਔ⢆֥㐀䘡㍡℅㎉䔥❱Ĥ ⢓㍆㐀 㠉ᕕ⁃ᦆᤤ∦᠐֥㔷䎙۷᜹㦐㆙b㠉㤨ׄ㈣㠉㍡℅䔥❱ ֻ֥䅢㞆㍡℅㎉䈵ᜦ㐢 Alexander McQueen 㕨֥䚒〰㖂☕㈸ 䒗ᢘਔ 㝩㠉յषਔ๙㤵䑁㦁㐕∲֥ն❢b ⢆䐑㝩 Jonathan Anderson ᤤ Craig Green 㥔৯ ਆ㈸न䆇㍡ ℅㐷‫م‬ⁱ≉‫ط‬㞖⠖b⢆ᙑљՖ㝩㕨ૌញ䚒֥≨┳䕙䁈֞ਔ㐁હ 㠉䎁 J.W.Anderson ញ䚒㐀 LVMH ₂㜂㌷㝹㉰ᠦ 㕦䆇֒㐀֥㜂ᕔ 㤗ᕕ∈㥈 ᐠ∦᠐䆄≨㤗֒Ӯ㑙ਔbਸ਼䅢ш Craig 㐢۱㢖㡷⠉᜹

䈑b䅢㥖䖉㉦䎁㌀ґᤤኄ✆䁂䐄ᘦ૫֥ҵ䈑ぃ䔲֤䘇䈁b㐥ᤦ⤶

֥㈸b㠉㤨㠉Ֆ㕨㍦㌶䁈֞ਔ๙ᡸ㝩㕨㈸㍡℅ᚑ䘡≉㦕䀧㐗֥ऎ

䕳㐱ሢ֥ኄ✆٢֞䕙ᡵᠨग़䕙ॣ⥇⌀㦕҂๙ਔb֒㈢䚒㝩䅢۱䔐

ุ㐷‫م‬b⡐ᔸ䅢۱Է䈁┠⢗Ֆ䂉ᖙ∖ᕉ䅢ਫ਼Ӯ㝩Ӂ〰a䚃ᥢট֞

䎁ት䀵ᖙ䑂䘤ն֥⢓ㅦ〰⥑ 㠉ૌड़‫≖∤‸ק‬㈆৯ડ䙲㈆ㆃᠨग़

䕤ᕆग़ᦀ㐷䕙֥㈆ᡸӱ ᕕ㠉ট㒘㐢ぃ䉷∅䈅֥b

֥҂㙷䀙䅅 ิប☕㈸ડ䈁֥Ӂ〰b

⢆㐢ᙸ㉂㝩ᦃ㈸㍦ᙘ㝩⢆֥㍡℅ᘦ㐒ջটਔ㥖䀤҂㙷䔥ጡĤ

䎁㑶۱ᡵ℉䔡⠖㍡℅նⅸᘦ૫ ⢆न䉷㕦䐹⁔⁕֤֞ิ⠖ 䒃

֒㈢b㠉֥䔈۱㍲ૅุ㡴ᔱⅩ৫䎁㠉䎁䕙ᡵሥնᡸӱ䕙㕦⅘a㕦

㥖⁔ⅸ䌄ิ⠖≨┳ᕕ⢆㍧㉰ᖙ䑂䙗ₓ֥〰⥑䉷䙂䐈䄰֥ဘ䘁

㞖a㕦≨┳֥⁢጖䔥㌶b䒃㥖≨䄔䅓䉅㤩ਔ㠉આ₀㔅㝱֥ᘦ㐒

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷Ġḡ $-&.&/5 -"6$)"3%

㞗┠p䌄o૫ਘp㤅㈢㐢⢆㍡℅䕙֥ਆ۱ᤢ㦃䌳㔳bՎ㜱 ᕕ

⁔ⅸᤤิ⠖Ďᕕ䊇〰⥑‫ط‬䂓㐢٤ӈ䕧ն֥䔘ት䌄ड़‫ط ק‬⡹䎁 㐗䅖ጆづь⁔֤䒃䄰֥㉂⎐ 㠉ૌ㎗ᙑ᜹ⁱb䎁䒃㥖≨┳֥䘁 ৯㢇 㠉ૌ֤䆇ⅲ〰⥑∴㍉۳䕩‫؟‬䅖⡷㈸㐔䔡㥇 ҂ᡸ⡹᠒ջ

䊇 Xu Zhi ֥ᙨᝲ ⢆ᦘ‸䚒ᤥ‫ק‬䈄Ĥ ⡘㥖䈗㝩ਅᤔ֥䙗㠉㉂䔡‫ط‬₂㞓㉠䌄⠉᜹a䙗㦄䌄ㄲն䊇䅢㍦֥

ਵ〰⥑۷≉䅢҄ 䌄ᠨग़䔨−ᕕᦉ ᅤ㐢۷☕㠉ૌ㦐‫֥ٹ‬㐗ㅴ

⤧㦙 䙥⡹ջ۳㠉᤹նゑ㐓b䔐㉦ᚑ䘡֥㞗┠ 㕩ૌुょটգ㊀҂

ᕕ䊇−㢇ট֥ₑ⢓⢆䉷㐁હᖙ䑂ᘦ䒒Ĥ⢆֥⡐ѓ䊃㐢㐁હĤ২

ऽ ㈕㐢≨ᡸℲ㐄֥щ䔦䌄Տ䀖ᅤ䚃䕤Ӯ㦓b㠉ૌ֥⤧㦙㦓㤶䅓

㉦⢆㐢ᙸॉ੮ᡸ⌀㉁䖘ੀն〰⥑֥䆈㑨䙥ℱĤ

ℷऎ㙷䄰֥ห䕓b㠉ૌ㡖㝖 Xu Zhi 䖑ⅦӮሥ㝩䅢۱⡹᠒㈰㈸ૌ৳

−㢇ট㠉ૌड़‫ק‬䅅䚑֥ 㐢㝩㠉ૌ֥ᠨग़յ䎙䘓㑧֥⤧㦙㦓

㤨֞䒃䕥ห䕓֥〰⥑b

㤶 ѩ䌄㕨ૌ䑂ष۷℘۱㈸ᦈ֥ᕕᦉb㉁ᤥ䉷䘁㠉ૌղӮ䒃䅢⡐

⢆֥㍡℅㍧㑃㐕∲۲ֹ㐀䘡ᒃ֥㡱ι ҂ં䎁⚆ᕙᦘ㐢䕙ᡵ

ѓ֥㐗 㠉ૌᔱ‸₂䕙⁓৯㈀䚑b

ૅᡵᦘ㐢ְϨन⡹⅘֞㍦䉅b҂䔡⢆㐢ᙸ䘇䈁֞䎁҂㙷ᡵ℗⁕ www.xuzhi.co.uk

҂㙷ग़ᦀ㈡ุ䔥ℵaᕕ⢆㐀䘡֥〘ᤔ䉷ᤥҵ䈑Ĥ 䎁㞕ᦈᤤᙐ㝦҂㙷֥㥃㑂㐱ሢ䔥ℵ ㈘㐄‸ุ㤇ጇ٤ӈ㤅䖙֥ҵ

55


{ S K P } ㍡℅㎉ऊↆ

䑔″㌘ ⢆ጇ㍹䊇䕙ᡵᐠ⌀ᔶ䊇⚆ᕙ䕙䄖㎈ઔ‫נ‬䁈䍉b䁂䐄䒃┢֥䌶䈗 㐢㐁હĤ⚆ᕙ䌄㎈ઔ‫נ‬㐢ᙸ‫ژ‬ᤦ⢆֥䌧づ ⁕䒀㒘 㕩ૌ䌄⢆֥ 㤨㤶ҵए᤹նગĤ ㎗⢓ㄗ 㠉㉂㝩㈆㐕∲֥Է䈁৯ਈᔱট䙗⁸㍆㑶ֹㆉb㕇䙂䖑Ⅶ Ӯሥ 㠉ᕕ John Galliano ᤤ Alexander McQueen Ⅶ㍹䄧⡈ ѩ ष㐑❱㤨Ӯ㝩㤴㕨ૌ⡘䄰֥㍡℅㎉ ‫ط‬㕨ૌӑُ֥䚒〰⌀㐢䕙 䄖㎈ઔ‫נ‬䚃ᤔ֥ᡒᝡ 㕦䆇㤅㈢ 㠉䅅ট֞䒃┢ ҂≇≇㐢ㆄ䁈 ۷ 㐢䅅ุ䄔䒃㕦䁈䍉┢֥㍹⁑ 㐈䙗ₓ≕䈤䎁䒃Է䎙৯֥ᙐ㝦䔥 䕙 
㐸ᡸ㈀ 㠉⎐䆇ड़‫ק‬ㄗ㝔䈱ᡵ☡䁈䊇㠉㐢㎗ᙑ䔐㈘֥䁂䐄 䎁Ӯሥ֥ᡸӱ䕙đ⢆㐢㉦ᤥᖙडᕕ㐀䘡֥㦐㆙֥Ĥ 㠉䎁ㅥ֛ሥն 㕦䆇㐀㌷㐕∲䐑ए㠉㎗ᙑ䄸䍅 ㅥ֛ѩ҂㐢۱᤹Ӗ ੀ֥በ㐱 ᐠ㈕㐢۱㎗ᙑ䉸㌧㑓㐥ֹ֥ᘦ 䎁⡘‫⎐ظ‬䆇≖ㅴӇ㐵 ҂㙷֥㐗㠸 䎁䒃䕥ᙐ㝦䕙 㠉䅓֤䆇䙗䉰ֹ㔅ॉ ᕕ㠉‫ط‬䂓 㐀䘡 㐢䅢䕥䆈㑨㦓㐒 ⎐䆇㚉ᡸ㕩ⅹᠧ㐗۳љ㈸๐ ‫ط‬㤗∈䊇ふ㕨䆈㑨 ❢ো 㐀䘡䊃۷㉖䆐−≓ 䊇㐢㠉थ‫ק‬䆇㐀䘡㝩䌈䂓টіղ䙗㠉 ⢆ᦘ㐢䁈㍹㐀 ⌀Ф Delphine Arnault ㅔׄ≉㉰ Dior ញ䚒b⢆ Ֆ䎁Dior ᝔‫ק‬ញᘤញ䚒֥≨┳䕙䁈֞ਔ㐁હĤ 㠉㕦䉷֥᝔₉䕉䅩ₕㅂन㡩֤䊇Վ 䒃ᕉ≨┳䅓۳㠉᤹նゑᖙ 㠉֥и䅖㡴ਙь㐢ᕕ Dior ֥䅢Ց䕅≵ 㠉䚑ਔੂส᝔‫ק‬ড়ᚑ 㤇䎁

䕙ᡵ㦁㍹ս㍡℅㎉䑔″㌘䆇₃㉈ㄗᖙ֥҃ 2018 Խ㢉㐀䘡㡴ਙ

䆄Ф⚆ᕙ֥㝱‫؟‬০䂀䌄έ‫غ‬ѵหѰ㠸ᡆčV&A MuseumĎ䕙ᡵᡆ ⢆㐢ᙸ㉂㝩ᦃ㈸㍦ᙘ㝩⢆֥㍡℅ᘦ㐒ջটਔ㥖䀤҂㙷䔥ጡĤ

‫֥گ‬㈠䘡bु䙂ૄ۱㈸㉦ᤥ䁂䕙䅢Ⅱֆ〰aѩथ‫ק‬০䉤䒃Ⅱֆ

㠉䎁ૄ۱㡴ਙ䕙ᔱ‸玅ᤦ҆ᙑ䕙ᡵ䌳㔳 ᐠ㠉‸≖⎐⡹䉤֤≦䕅

〰䚑 ㎅䘡յϲ⁕㐢䙨䀈㤁ਫ਼㤖đ㐢Ⅱ٤ӈဣ֥㐗ㅴb㠉֥⦖

ㅂ⠃䅢㥖bई۱২䙖 㠉䎁㍡℅䕙‸䉤֞㑶䙙o8p 䒃㐢䕙ᡵ㞕ᦈ

䉸֒䕙 䀤‫؟‬㈸‸ጤ㠉㍡℅֥䅩ᚑ 㕦䆇㠉⡹㐶⁔᤹‫ّ؟‬ঌb㠉

┢֥㦗䍦㑶䙙b㠉ૌ䙥‸䕉䎙䒃䄰䅢㥖㥈㡷∙b㙷㐀 ૄ۱㡴ਙ

᤹᝔㦐⡹䌄⡘㥖䎁㍹⁑䕙㐄㐄䎁䎁ጤ䒃㥖䅩ᚑ֥㈸≉㦕ↈੀ

Мᥢᔱ䉷䅢۱㑃䕙ᡵ㞕ᦈゑְaᐠ䊃℘㉰Է㦁ㅂ㔅֥㜹䔈ᠧ㐗М

䎁㑶۱ᡵ℉䔡⠖㍡℅նⅸᘦ૫ ⢆न䉷㕦䐹⁔⁕֤֞ิ⠖b䒃

≱b㠉᤹㡱ᦕ⡔㞕ᦈ䌳㔳ট䚑㞕䑑 䉷㐀㠉ᕕ䕙ᡵ䌳㔳֥ҕॉุ

㥖⁔ⅸ䌄ิ⠖≨┳ᕕ⢆㍧㉰ᖙ䑂䙗ₓ֥〰⥑䉷䙂䐈䄰֥ဘ䘁Ĥ

㤇䎁٤ӈ≦㝡䔥ጡ 䉷㐀䐅⠒㤅֤‫؟‬b

㠉᜹֞㎗ᙑ㉒㦗bૄ䅢Ց⁔ⅸ ᔱ㉦㙷֞ղ䅢䚔┢ӱЗ ⢆‸䌕֞

⢆㔕ᥤ䎁Ӯ䅩㡴ਙ䕙䈵䉤ਔ䅢㥖᝔‫֥ק‬ₕㅂট䈹䎙⁸ऎ㉠ૅ⤧

۲㌀۲䄰֥㈸ 㕨ૌ‸ᕕ⢆㕦䚑֥㐗і㐓䎅䀤 ‫ط‬䒃䅓㐢⢆֥䚒

㦙ゕ䕓֥ক㦓b⢆‸㉦ᤥ‫ק‬䈄o䑔″㌘pᙨᝲĤ

〰䎀Ց⁔ّ֤ঌ֥ਅ⁣ ٤ӈ☕㈸㡱䍘

㠉֥ᚑ䘡㍡℅䆇⡘㥖⅘‫؟‬㐅ᡒaђ䉵㐕∲֥⤧㦙㝩䖘䅅ग़㈡

䚒㝩㍡℅㎉ ⢆䚃ⁱᔘ㈸㦃֥≨┳㐢㐁હĤ

䑔″㌘ᙨᝲp㐢㦙᜹a䉦䁸Ֆ㉖aѩջ䉷䅢㔈䉥⠱᜹֥ᙨᝲ ⢆֥㍡℅㍧㑃㐕∲۲ֹ㐀䘡ᒃ֥㡱ι ҂ં䎁⚆ᕙᦘ㐢䕙ᡵ ૅᡵᦘ㐢ְϨन⡹⅘֞㍦䉅b҂䔡⢆㐢ᙸ䘇䈁֞䎁҂㙷ᡵ℗⁕ ҂㙷ग़ᦀ㈡ุ䔥ℵ ᕕ⢆㐀䘡֥〘ᤔ䉷ᤥҵ䈑Ĥ ૄ㞆⤧㦙ᔱ䉷㑧䊇䙗ₓ֥䉦䁸b䉷㆙֥㐢 䉷㥖ઙ㐷⁕ᠨग़۷ 䘇䕧㉈ӈሢᤦ֥䎙㦒ձ⦁ ‫ط‬䉷㥖䐅䘓䘇䊇ሥড়ᚑ⁕㐢۷㝩َ

56

ड़‫ק‬㐢⊒䍗ᙘ㠉ֻ֥䅢℗❢ᒃ䎁⚆ᕙ❦ห∕čMount StreetĎष 䑔֥⡘฿bӑ₉ဣ֥䅢฿Ć www.huishanzhang.com

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷Ġḡ $-&.&/5 -"6$)"3%

㐶䚒䉡⊐ᡆҟb㕦䉷䒃㥖≨┳ ᔱⁱৣਔ㠉Էပ۱㈸〰⥑֥थ㦃


❆ᡔ≁ 㤙 ᥕઑ戅a 䒅䖄⡃Нa䙹㎘㤱╗

#7-("3* Џᝲৡ %*7"4n%3&". 㡴ਙ #7-("3* Џᝲৡ䆇⤧㦙䉦䁸₃અઔૅ 䁈㝩ਲ᜹ ⅲ≨ᑷ %*7"4 %3&". 㡴 ਙԷ㦁䄂䈔 䆇㦁䉆㍡℅ᤤ㈆㦁㌀ґ ӯ㤇٤ُ֥㈆㦁 %*7"4 %3&". 㡴ਙ 䖄Џbড়䎅Џ㎘֥ᦃґ䔥ૅ 䕅≵≨ᑷ ֥㜹ૅ‫ג‬䘸 ㈆㦁֥ %*7"4 %3&". 㡴ਙ䖄Џᙨᝲ‫؟‬эa㌀䐆愢ৡ 䕓᜹᝔ ᡨ 㜹ૅ䄂䈔֒≂⤧㦙⎑㝖䎁҂㙷ሢᤦ 䕙҂≨䈁ੀ♓֥䉦䁸䌄癈৯b  ㈢䅢㦁֥‫؟‬૫㍡℅䑒㤅䙂 %*7"4 %3&". 㡴ਙ֥ᙨ㌷䍰ੰ ☕ૄ㞆⤧ 㦙㉦⤧㍰Ϯ我或ᕨ⡐b䉦䁸≦䕅 癈 ৯ㄗ㞑 ❷㈸㦙᜹ ӂ㐨ਔ֒ս⤧㦙䙗 㦄㊂㜔֥䒇㠉۱㦙b Վ㡴ਙ䉤Џ㎘֥‫؟‬䄰䔥㆙ ㌀ґ֥‫پ‬ ᜘愢ৡᤤ≨ᑷ֥≥䄃Է㦁 㜹ૅ䤇㐨 ਔ‫؟‬䄰ᔘ㈸֥䖄Џ Џᝲৡᔵห֥ᙨ

ᝲ癈৯䑒㤅ふ䕙 ኉ડ⁑৯֥㌀ґ䙸 ᤦ ն։љ䕅֥Џ㎘ㅉᝩᤤ⁸᜘Է䈁 ֥ᔵห㍡℅b ㈆㦁 %*7"4 %3&". 㡴ਙ֥Ϣ≁␧ Ֆ‫ז‬䘰֞㐷椳ᤤ‫ ᦖع‬䁂䉤Ϣ≁ᅣ䕓 ⁕➅㤙䙹㎘b䉷㥖䎁䕙䄖㤙ㄣ䅢॒㌢ 䅆֥䙹㎘ ≖ㅴ䑂㤇⤧㍰癈৯ 㤙䉷 䒅ᡨᢂডЏ㎘֥Ϣ≁㌩㦓‫ז‬䘰ᤤ∩ 䔵 㐢ᕕՂե֥⤧㦙䔥ૅ֥䕅≵䌄㔡 䄠 Ղ⊂㞀ড֥Џ㎘㉦䌃֯Ϯ䘰ઋ ⅲ Џ㎘֥䒐ૅ㍐ᦃᤤЏᝲৡ֥ᑷ䁸㉠ ૅ䑂㤇֤ਥৗ≖䕅b %*7"4 %3&". 㡴ਙ❆ᡔ≁㤱╗ᤤ 㐷椳㤙ㄣੀᡑ䈆ґ֥䙹㎘a⁸䕅䉦䁸 ֥䒅䖄⡃Нđ䌄ઑ戅֥㞓⤨㌀䐆㦓Ӯ ㄲਛᕕбđ昲昲㍹‥đ≖㤅ᐢ䁸䌄⤡ 䌓֥⦙䘣䔥ૅb

❆ᡔ≁㤙ᙖе憈a䙹㎘‫ᦖع‬

❆ᡔ≁㤙䒅䖄⡃Нa।㈙㎘∩䔵

❆ᡔ≁㤙ᥕઑ戅a䒅䖄⡃Нa䙹㎘㐷椳


{ S K P } 䀔ሢ䔨⁠

A CRUISE INTO HISTORY થ䉵┳㐆ᒇถ

ℑᠢêaְϨᤤ㐸‫غ‬䔥ᥢ KARL LAGERFELD 
ᡘᠢ㡖ছ㞕 ⠒ ᖙ҃ CHANEL 2018 䎔Խᕃℤ㡴ਙb≂⢓5䍗䊇ê┕ն―ភ૫ 㐕֥㡴ਙ䚒〰₃䀔ሢ҃≱ ₇ⅲ䎁11䍗䕙䆇ϤᙑϤ䌶ષ䕧㤇Ӯᔱ

䉡᥆֥ᠢ㞕⠒

䕆㍦㍰⠂䅲䔴䕙֥䀔ሢ

㈵䕣ѩ≦๙䆈㑨㐆֥ Karl Lagerfeld ㍧䔡ᠢ㡖ছ㞕⠒ᕕ䊇

䎁䘤ৡ֥ᠢ⒐㍰⠂җ䌴䕙 䅢䕩µ┕₃䕙ᡵ⠖ੀℓџ㑃䄲ㄗটᡄ

䖉‫؟‬㞕䆈㐀づ䆇₃⡘㥖㐀䕄≂㉈㉇㈢㐥䉤䔥㍲ૅѓ䘳֥䕧

ु䚃㦁䎔Խ㡴ਙbጔਔ䀆㝵֥৫䘀 ҃≱䕙ᦘЇওֹ䕙ᢂ䔩㠸a㡖

ն䉅㤩b‫ط‬䒃۱ᠢ㞕⠒䅓᤹㤅㈢ֹ䎁 Gabrielle Chanel ֥

ছ㞕ѓ䕁 ૄ䅢ጡ㡷∙ᔱ≨ᡸ㡗㦃ॉ⊆ 䔸㝩ⅲ㡖ছ㍰ᦉሢ≱

㍦㌶☡㢇ਔ҂⎐⠤⠅֥䈰℆ ҂ં㐢oCoco 䎁 Cambon ∕

ᦈӮ䒇 ӯ㤇䎁䕩㈸䄀ㄗb⠢ห䊖ᡐ㉰ሢ ᅧ䎁┲㎘ֹϰ֥ૄ䅢۱

䌥㕦┢㐶ҟ֥⡘䚅⎐䘨㔸䕄䅢㐕ℒ֥ᠢᑷ㝱⡠㔂‫ג‬㤴 ᦘ㐢

↘҄ᔱᜥ䔙䚒㤩 ՎՑ䎔Խ㡴ਙ䅢᠃㐨ጇ80۱ক㦓 ⁸ⅉ֥㤖่

1922⢓㕰㝩㈰cᠥक़‫؟‬čJean CocteauĎᜧщ֝䄂֥ᠢ㡖

玅ᤦᦃৡ֥䘡㐩 ☕㈸㠡҂㍰䚂㦃㝔b⠢ห㍦ጤ⤨㌀㡴ᤤ㚓อ䈰

ছИखuAntigonev㍡℅֥㡶ᚑđᔱุ㤇ਔ䒃㞆〰⥑Է㐑㈸

ᦁ֥㈠䘡₃ㅦ䉄〡䆖֥㌶䅩 ⦂պЏ㎘―ᡃᤤ۲㐒㤱╗a㐷ᦖ₃

䌄ᠢ㡖ছ㞕⠒֥㍧ᥠ䌱䍃b2018䎔Խᕃℤ㡴ਙ₇䆇Վ䚒㝩

㐸㐩 㝅㉦Ֆ㍰ᦉ䕙䙨㉰䒇㐄㐕∲֥䁸ᑷ⡙⤧㍰bหљ䔲֤ᡁ䘇

ゑᖙਲ᜹ ᠢ㡖ছ㞕⠒Ӯ㝩㍡℅≦㍰ѩㅑᜐ䌁ਔЧ㡴ਙ≦ґ

֥㐢ᡐጤ䔈۱䎔Խ㡴ਙ֥અઔဢջ㥙 ㉦㙷㐆㎔Ϯ֥ᚒ‫ג‬уᦆ䕙

֥ᠧ㐗㦙b

㕦ӯ㤇֥⡘Ϯb䒃㐢䅢ሢથ䉵␠䍒┳㐆䌄֒ս֥Ӯទն䀔

58

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷 ḡ 0-*7*&3 4"*--"/5

䘖㞕 Colette Marc


䚒㝩 .$. 䚃ऎ䉷սі㦙֥≨ᑷ㡴ਙ 1"53*$*" 㐷տℑӵਔ䍃䙗〰⥑ᑷ ҟ1"55: 㐷տ֥㜹ૅক㦓bՖ ⢓ᐣ㍹䕄≂ 1"53*$*" 㐷տ֥㍡℅ 䌙ᖙљऎ䅢ᝲ 䆇۲䕥⁸ऎ㐀ս᜹֥䆈㑨₃䈙ুੀ⥔㝩ਲ᜹ 䖑Ⅶ䄂эӮ ᜘䉷㐀սห㌀֥ㄗ㞑ѓ䕁 㐢 .$. 㤵ㄈ晥⤧㦙≦㍰䕅≵֥≨ᑷ䔥䚒 1"53*$*" 㐷տ㐩䆇ѓ䕁㦙䍗ᡥ䅗ᤤ.$. ѓ㐅 ۷⦁䉷⎐‫∙ט‬ℸջaջ䉷 㕥२֥ㄗ‫ي‬ᜰaਆ۱⡷҆᝵Ҫ ⡷҆ঘ╗१տa】ᝰ㐩шᤤЇㄐ Ӯ㝩㉈ӈ 㐈䉤ᤤձ⦁֥┠㤨䁂䐄b㚉ᡸ䕉䚒≦ਅ֥ 1"53*$*" 䘓㑧‫ק‬䕉㐷տ ᠨग़ ⎐䆇䅢ফ .$. ᔵऎↀ㦃֥䆈㑨䔥ૅ

1"53*$*"㐷տ 䀇ભ㤕‫␧ק‬

.$. 㔆㈸‫ק‬䕉ᚑ㡀 .$. 1"53*$*" 㐷տ⠒㦆∕⥉ğ 䅁Ӥč䚈㌶Ďaᝣ㐷 1*9*& -05 ㌶㚓Ď₃⤶䄥⡙⡙ 䚈㚓Ďb

֣ᡵ㍐ኃ〰⥑ .$. 1"53*$*" 㐷տ㔆㈸‫ק‬䕉㤕 㐀ᜨ⢗ᒃ㉈ㄗ䎁К≤ 4,1 ੈ䕧ष⡆ ѩ䎁䕙ᡵն ♠ֹㆉ㐸Ց㜃ጇ〰⥑≨ᑷ㐷տ 1"53*$*" 㡴ਙ 㔆㈸‫ק‬䕉ᚑ㡀 㤕㐀ᜨ⢗ᒃо⡆ᥢ ‫ק‬䕉ᚑ㡀ⅲ 䂒䀵䕄К≤ 4,1 ㊈Ҫ≦〰ᒃb

1"53*$*"㐷տ ੪㦕㤕‫␧ק‬ 㝩ਔㅷᤵ .$. 㐸Ց㜃ጇo."%& 50 03%&3p㔆㈸‫ק‬ 䕉ᚑ㡀㤕㐀ᜨ⢗ᒃđਆ␧䕙ᡵ㤕‫ ק‬1"53*$*" 㐷տ㒖㐡‫ط‬ ㍹đ⁢䊇〰⥑䖙⠖֥ "/*."- ;00 ₃੪㦕℗┠⢗đਆ␧ 㤕‫ק‬㐷տᙑљ䘡㐩ਔo䀇ભpᤤo੪㦕p䖘ี֥Տ䀖์〙đ ㈆ㆃ㤕ਈᖙ㦕đ䀇ભ␧㈆ㆃ≇ 䔸đ㈵ゕㆃ␧ 䔸b


{ S K P } ⠥֨ֆ〰

THREE KEY TRENDS ㊈նᡁ⅙ㆈ㐡

】Ҥ䌉㐩aᦁ″㚓σ䆇₃䄃ᥕ㌀ґᔱ㐢 Чₗ㐀癢⦁㐩֥䕧ׄ䌳㔳b SKP 䍴䕁㝩ᔶ䒀ਙጇ≂⢓ㆀᔕ҂⎐հᡸ֥㐀㌷䖘ี 䘖㞕 Colette Marc

䉰䚈‫ط‬䉹 17/18 ㆀᔕ㐀䘡㡴ਙ PRADA.

Տ䀖㐷տ₃ℸМЇ DOLCE &

60

GABBANA.

Чₗㆀᔕ㡴ਙক㦓 MAX

MARA .


{ S K P } ⠥֨ֆ〰

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ᥕ㌀‫م‬䐅 1957⢓ ְύ㢓㍹䎁⠖㝩 Christian Dior et moi ֥䙗ጦ┢หљㄲ‫ט‬㐀 䘡䀔䕙oหঘ‫℘غم‬㈠䘡p Robes Trafalgar ֥䕧䅅㦙b䒃㥖㈠䘡䈗 ふ ᔵหক㦒ᤤ㐴तነ⁠‫ط‬䎁۲ն 䍴䕁ᙣ૫ᤤ㐀䘡ն〙㌶ㄳ≖ᙨ㚈 䒃㞆㐀䘡 ն ㎉ ㌤䊇Վ 䕥ক 㦒㍡ ℅ 䅓 ≨ ӈ ∦ ᤦ 㢕 ⁑ ㌀ ґ Է 䎙 ㌢

uੳ䅑㢔䙢v㐢1939⢓㌶䉈֥ᤷϢᒀ䉅 〙䕙⤧䖘 ∀ JUDY GARLAND ↘㌶⡘㒈ᥕ㌀ਊ〙ՙ۵㥙䆄≨Ӯ㝩 Ѱ㠸ᡆᑷҟ䒐〰b

ਊ ᕨ ⡐ ֥ 㥔 ᡶ b㐗 㐄 ㌶ 䎔 䎁 㕨 䊇1947⢓ 㜃 ጇ ֥o N ew Lo o k 㦁 ᙨ ષp㡴 ਙ䔥䕙 ‫␧؟‬䆇oRouge Scream ᥕpյ䎙֥ক㦓⌀䆄≨ᙨ

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷 ḡ *7"/ -"556"%"Ġ*/%*(*5"-*."(&4 $0.Ġ-"63" +0)"/4&/Ġ"-%0$"450-%*

❵㍥䑂㕹 Ӯ㝩㝇䕩䖖⡐֥ↆׄb 70⢓ᥢ֥≂฿ 䅢䕩㐀䘡㍡℅㎉ᙒ ᙒ 䘕ᥕ 䎁ক㦒ᤤ⦁㐩㌶ᔱ䆇ᥕ㌀ ն䚑 㞕䑑 䉰 Ka r l La g e r fe l d ᤤ Sylvia Venturini Fendi ᠃㙷ਵ㢙 ֥ Fendi 㜃ጇਔ䆇ਊᥕ䚑㝩䖘㌀֥ 㐀䘡䀔 攷䔣ᥕひ】ሥ䁆۷㐢㡑䈨 ਔ䕩㈸⡐ᡑbふ㕨㐀䘡㠠䅓҂奲‫؟‬ ㈰ 㝩≨ᑷ␧㐒㜃ጇㄳ䄀֥ᥕ㌀㦁 ␧ ২㉦ Louis Vuitton ֥ Twist 㐷տ ᤤ Chloé ֥ Drew ֆℸЇb 䎁ᒀ䉅‑≁⢓ս ⌀≨ӈ⎐⅘ᥕ㌀ ⦁㐩ջট֥㐴त䒗ᢘ ২㉦uੳ䅑 㢔䙢v┢ลু允↘㢇ᅧ䙂֥⡘㒈ᥕ 㥙 1939⢓㌶䉈 ᒀ䉅䕙䌶ϱᥕ㥙⡐ ㄗ䉰㐆➅㌂䁈‸Ѱ㠸ᡆ㐶ҟĎ ⁕ 㐢 ᥕਫ䄃v䕙 Moira Shearer ጤ ֥ᥕ㌀㠱㥙 ᔱᔵऎᦆ☧ׄ≡䔥⠃ ≂⢓ㆀᔕ ҂ં㐢 Saint Laurent ֥ ְ㔂॓ᙨᝲᦘ㐢 Miu Miu ֥㑔⤧ਫ਼ 㤖 ᥕ㥙ᔱ䉷ਔ䑁㦁䤇㐨 Ӯ㝩‫؟‬۱ 㐀䘡㍥䑂㕹㌶֥㦁ਊׄb

䉰㌶‫ط‬㢇a䚈‫ط‬䉹 〧㌀ሥ䁆 CHANEL. ᘦ२ֆℸЇ ROGER VIVIER. "SOFT BALLERINA"᝔۵ 㜩䁆 CÉLINE. PÉNÉLOPE SOFT 㡴ਙ䉱ҵЇ LONGCHAMP. ひ】〶ָ㥙 DIOR. ╗่લ‫ף‬ℸМЇ DOLCE & GABBANA. ㆀᔕ㐀䘡㡴ਙ FENDI.

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َᦁ㎅ष

䂒䀵ㄗₑₗ֥㎅ঃ ᦁ″䎁≂⢓ㆀ ᔕℑ䀵䑉٢ 䑉٢p䖘ีⅲ䆇䈰ᦁ Տ䀖㍴䕄㦓㤶䆈㑨֩҂㙷㦓㐒䂒㍥ ֞⦁㐩㡴ਙ Demna Gvasalia ⅲ ℗ं䔦〰ᤤᠤՌ䕙ӈ⅘֥䐗ᡑ䈰 ᦁ㚓σ㉓㉰Їտ₃㐷ᦖ֥㍡℅ ӯ 㤇ጇ⌀৵㕨 Ч㈸ᔱ䈁㤨҂֥֞শ થ ㅴ ᦒ Dolce & Gabbana ᤤ Louis Vuitton 䐅䁂䐄ਔ۷℘⁑あ‫؟‬ ґ֥ᘦ㐒䤇㐨 ‫ط‬Gucci ₃Dior 䉤 ㅂ㐷䀖ញ䎁瑵䁆ᤤ⠩व㦀㥙૫㌶ ն䑂ᦁ‫֥ظ‬㎔䈁⠦৯b

SMALL BASKET OF FLOWERS JUAN DE ARELLANO 1671 и‫غ‬A‫ش‬Ѱ㠸ᡆᡆҟ ᦁ″㝩䒃㞆A✀क़㐀づ㡆ϫ䁳≳㠸ն㎉֥Է䚒䖘ี 䅓㐢Чₗ㐀㌷⦁㐩 ֥䖘䅅㍡℅䌳㔳䔥䅢b

䚈⥐㌶‫ط‬㢇 ֆℸЇ₃瑵ջՙ۵㥙 DOLCE & GABBANA Տ䀖䕙㚃㜩 GUCCI. 䉹⥐㌶‫ط‬㢇 Տ䀖瑵䁆 DIOR. 17/18ㆀᔕ㐀䘡㡴ਙ PRADA "PALAZZO EMPIRE"㐷տ VERSACE.

42

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷 ḡ 6 . # & 3 50 ' 3 "5* / * * / % * ( * 5" - 5 7 ) 6 -50 / " 3 $ ) *7 &Ġ'* / & " 3 5 * . " ( & 4 ) & 3 *5" ( & * . " ( & 4 ( & 5 5 : * . " ( & 4 ) 6 -50 / " 3 $ ) *7 & ( & 5 5 : * . " ( & 4

)/2:(5(' 83


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䚈㚓 17/18ㆀᔕক㦓 COACH. Ч⥐㌶‫ط‬㢇 "ETIQUETTE"⅑䄣ર㐷տ PRADA . ሥ䁆 MARNI. 】Ҥશ MIU MIU. 䌉㐩᝔۵ਂ㥙 PRADA. "SAILOR"⅑䄣ર㐷 տ KENZO.

‫ج‬અ㔂】Ҥરશ㝩䎙 㦒〶เ᝔ᡨশ થ ゕ 㡕 䅓 ㈰ᒀ䉅u㉈㜨ᝥ䅤㍹v 1965㌶䉈 䕙Їও GERALDINE CHAPLIN 䎁⡷֥䅢䕩⤧㦆瑰㍦㐀㌷㈸㠸䔥ਙb

7+( )85 $1' 7+( )($7+(56 】Ҥ ₃䌉㐩

】Ҥ ᤤ 䌉 ર⎐䆇㒘 㐢㐀㌷ ᙨ Ӗ ⁉ձ≦㍰p֥⁸䕅䄂䈔 ␗䑔֥䄃 ㌀㈸ 䎙 】Ҥ ۷ 㐢㐸䁂č䉷㥖㐀䘡 㠠㍴䕄ⅲ䒇】ҤϲӮℤ】ҤĎ ㈆ ㆃ㐀䘡 䕱֥㍥䑂㕹㌶ न⎐⅘֞䆇 㕩 ૌ 䙸 ᠐ ֥ ᦃ ૅ ⦁ 㐩 bC o a c h ֥ ਝ ㈸ શ aM i u M i u ֥ ≦ ਲ ર શaValentino ֥ર Ҥ ਂ 㥙 ᦘ䉷 Roger VivieraTod’s ₃ Kenzo ֥】 ҤЇ Sonia Rykiel ₃Lanvin ֥䌉㐩 ‫ᦖع‬䆇₃ Prada ֥ᦃৡ᝔۵㥙 ۲ ℗㐀䘡㠠ጇぷ䕉㎇ 䉤】Ҥᤤ䌉ર ⦁㐩㝩⤉䘢ׄ≂⢓ㆀᔕb

63


{ S K P } 䖄Џ

PAPER SCISSORS STONE Џ㎘❷ភ

㍖䉅 Kanji Ishii. 䎙㦒 Constance Féral. ҃≱㍡℅ Maud Vantours

64


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BVLGARI BVLGARI㡴ਙ "CATENE"Ϣ≁䙹㎘㝈і BVLGARI ᝔₉䖄Џ MOSAIC 㡴ਙϢ≁㤙䙹㤱╗ DE 䚈䅔 GLYCINE 㡴ਙ挹挅㎘Ϣ≁㤙䙹㤱╗aMEHNDI 㡴ਙϢ≁㤙䙹‫ ᦖع‬BOUCHERON.

65

BEERS.


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᝔₉䖄Џ SNOWFLAKE 㡴ਙϢ≁㤙䙹‫ᦖع‬₃∩䔵a᝔₉䖄Џ OLYMPIA 㡴ਙ "NEW OLYMPIA"Ϣ≁䙹㎘㤱╗ VAN CLEEF & ARPELS. 䉹䅔 SUNNY SIDE OF LIFE 㡴ਙЏ㎘Ϣ≁㤙䙹␦㐷椳₃Џ㎘Ϣ≁㤙䙹‫ᦖع‬aROSE PASSION 㡴ਙ䙵⡃ੳϢ≁䙹㎘∩䔵 PIAGET.

66


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67


{ S K P } 䖄Џ

68


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᝔₉䖄Џ ROSE DIOR BAGATELLE 㡴ਙ❆ᡔ䎙㦒Ϣ≁㤙䙹㤱╗₃∩䔵a᝔₉䖄Џ ARCHI DIOR 㡴ਙ "DIORAMA"Ϣ≁䙹㎘㤱╗ DIOR. 䚈䅔 CHAMPS DE LUMIÈRE 㡴ਙ㡒ধডЏϢ≁㤙䙹㐷椳aJOSÉPHINE 㡴ਙ "AIGRETTE IMPÉRIALE"䙵⡃ੳϢ≁䙹㎘㤱╗ CHAUMET. ㍖䉅䘁┠ UEDA DAIKI GABRIEL BOSC THOMAS LEVY 䎙㦒䘁┠ MARIE CHEIAKH.

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{ S K P } 䀔ሢ䔨⁠

25 ⢓ট ALEXANDRE DE BETAK 㤵۲ն〰⥑䙗⅓ѩㅑӮទ䌄㕨ૌ ৳㐷 䉤Է㦁㔅㝱҂ᕐ‫׀‬ᜉ㐀䘡䀔֥ጦ㚄 Ӯ㝩⠖ᜈふ㐄֥ 䀔ሢ⠖֝b㕨≓づጇϱਔ⠖㝩 FASHION SHOW REVOLUTION ֥ᦃૅ 㑖Ҩ 
ᠨ㉰㦕䆇ট֥ᡁ⅙㐀ख़ ∑♓Ӯទ㐀䘡ն䀔֥䕧䅅䌳㔳b SKP 䍴䕁㝩ᔶ䒀䘓٠ਔ䒃㞆で㍦⡆ᥢ֥ध㐕ぷᅤb

‫ع‬ચ㐢 ALEX ANDRE DE BETAK 䔵֝ѩ 䑕㠒㐀䘡䀔㐀֥䕧䅅⦁С 䅓Ӯ㝩 㕨ញ䚒㐀֥сС䘡ϲ ㌶ 㚓 䉰 A L E X A N D R E 䅢 㐷 Ҧ ᦇ ֥ DIOR 14/15 ㆀᔕ᝔‫ק‬㡴ਙᖙ҃‸

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㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷 ḡ " -5"*."(&

䘖㞕 François Castrillo


THE MAN BEHIND THE SHOW

㐀䘡䀔ሢ֥⡆ᥢ㜃㐷 71


{ S K P } 䀔ሢ䔨⁠

A l exa n d re d e B eta kऎСӮ ទ⠖֥֝ห䕓ᤤᅤ⡹ 㐈 㕨㉒⁔o㐀㌷∲ᙆ┢ ⢄p֥ᙣᤖb҃≱㍡ ℅֥䘓䅖М≱ ㈰㕨 㙷 㐀 䉐 䉷 Ⅹ 䘅㍡ ℅ 䈙ু щ 㠱₃㐴 त ห 㥔 ֩ ‫ ؟‬䌳 ֥䆈㑨ጠ∀bAlexandre 䊇1990⢓Է৫ Bureau Betak ㍡ ℅ Է 䈁 ញ䚒 㐳 ᕕ ૄ 䅢 ₗ 㐀䘡 䀔 ֥ і 㤇 㐷 ‫م‬҂ ᕐ 㜃 ӧጇ㦁 䆇 ᚑ䘡㝩䕙㦃 յ䎙 㦁฿ ֹb҂ં㐢ᦃৡն 䀔ᦘ 㐢㔆➅㎅‸ 㕨ᔱ⡹ ᠒ㅦ㔘ℨ䌩bA lexa nd re ֥‫؟‬૫㈆ ᅤ㈰㕨䌄㈆ㆃ 䚃ऎ ㈃ 㝙֥㐀䘡㠠ֿ∦ਔሥ ⊐֥䍄ᙑ ጔ ਔ㐢 J o h n G a l l i a n o ᡸ㈀ ሥ ղ15⢓֥䌘䉤䀔֝ 㕨 ᦘ 䌄 DioraHussein ChalayanaViktor & Rolf ₃ Rodarte ֩〰 ⥑Ќትሥづᤦ䚒bAlexandre de Betak 䎁│⁦ਔㄈ䊓ሢ֥ 㐀䘡䀔ሢa䘡䕆䆈㑨₃㎅䄒⁑ᔘ֥≨䄔䔥ᥢ 㚉ᡸ Fashion Show Revolution 
ᠨ۱㈸䔧䅖㍹䁷b䒃Ч≦䘡㑖 ҂ᐠ᠅ ীጇ㕨䊇90⢓ս㐀䘡䀔䘕㦒㐀づք㉁֥ᡁ⅙∀㌀ 䅓ӯ㤇 ਔ㐀䘡䀔֥䕥䕥сС䌳㔳 ২㉦ሢ㕦a҃䕆a֧ᡑa䄂ጇ֩ 㐥㐀䈵㡀֥ Alexandre 䅓≦䑈ጇ㌀ֹ䉂−ਔ㑶✆㐀ս֥㦁 ็䑆bဒ㕇㦁㑖૫㐱֥ᦘ䉷䅢۱љष㍹૫֥㍡℅䑂 䑂㐓 Їও‫⁣ع‬a℅㐀✆іaચक़ᙨᤤ T 䀱֩㆙㞁φ㈢֥㍡℅䚒 〰bAlexandre ⅲ㐀䘡ᖙ҃‸ ᦈ㝩Է䈁㐵䄔ሢӯ㤇䊇䕩 ㈸䄀ㄗ 䉤ਸ਼ো֥ᘦ㐒䕧㦁䤇㐨㕨֥ញ䚒 䅓∳Վ 㦖㦁㍹ սᕕ㐀䘡䀔ሢ䆈㑨֥㝕㎅ᤔぷ㦃b ⤉ᕕ䊇℗ऎ㍡℅₃㠱㕹㍡℅֥㈵ㅴՖᤥ‫ط‬টĤ 㠉⢓ㅦ㐀֥❱㤨㐢Ӯ㝩㍖䉅㎉b㠉⢓ℒ᤹㥈֥㐀ᥡ⌀ष㐑 ㍖䉅 ᝔䕙㐀づ 㠉ᦘ䌄䅢㥖䍴䕁㍠Ќትᤦ䚒ᡁ㡴 Ֆ‫ط‬ฐ㕤 ਔᡸ㈀㜹㈆҂ਔ∧֥㐀㌷∲b㐈㠉᜹㦐㆙֥ 㐢Է䎙㐴त䉅 㤴b๙ᡸ℗ऎ㍡℅ᤤ㠱㕹㍡℅ 㠉ⅲ㐴त䉅㤴㔓㝱ᦈ ‫ط‬䒃 㥖䉅㤴҂≇ᡕ⠢۷ն ᦘ۱۱ਲᔘ㢕⁑b ⤉䊇80⢓⠨≉㉰䔧ሢ ‫ط‬䎁Վㄗₑ۱㎅նॢㄗ֥ᖙ҃‸ष ゑਔ㐀䘡䀔֥㦁㐀սbㅶซซ䒃䕥䑁㦁֥ပ䀔⠢㐒ᕕ⤉㉈ ᥢ䚒〰֥䉅㤩 ֥㈘ 㠉㐢䎁 GaultieraAlaïa ᤤ Mugler ֩㐀䘡㠠䖘֥֝⢓ ս 䉩ふ㐢⡘㥖☕㈸⡨䆇䕆㦄֥㐀䘡䀔䕙ሥն֥b㠉㉂㝩 ᤹с㈢ 㠉㑃֞䒃㥖኉ડ㡶खᦈ֥ն䀔֥䙉䄩b㍴䕄֞≂ ฿ ⡘۱⢓ս㉇䎁䉅㤩㐀䘡ᖙ҃‸֥㦓㐒b㠉䒇䔐㉰㦕֥㐀 ᥡ ҂ᙑ⡧⤧֥䕙㦙ᙨ₃‫ת‬䄤ᙨष㐑ᖙ䑂䘤ն ᐠ㠉ᦘ㐢䆇 80⢓ս֥ն։ᚒ␗≦㍰Ⅹ᠐۱㈸㐴∀b㠉䚃䎔֥ₑሢ㐀䘡 ᖙ҃‸㐢∦᠐䖘䈄֥⁸ⅉᙨᝲ 䔥ᥢᅤ㤵ᦃৡ䘤ᡄ֥ᙨᝲ ᖙ䑂b‫ط‬㤇㉦≂㐀䘡ᖙ҃‸䆄≨҂թ䎁ᡕ䐅 ပ䀔֥⡐֥䅓 䌄Ֆㄗ㜹㈆҂㙷ਔb ⤉䚃㦁ጇϱ֥㑖ҨऊↆӮទ㐀䘡䀔֥ᡁ⅙䌳㔳 㐢ᙸ᜹त 䆄≨䑕㠒֞oᔵ❢➁物pĤ 㐢䅓҂㐢bふ㐄 ી䉷㐁હ㕦㞈֥oᔵ❢➁物pb㐀䘡䀔㐢䅢 ۱с䀢䌄㐀ऒ≉ѩㅑЌት㦁㢕䉷㆙a㈰㈸ት䀵᝔ᕃᡁ䘇֥ 〶㕹b㉦≂ 㑶䙙ᦈ۷㐢㈰㈸⅘䔕aุ䄔֞䒇㐄֥ᜧэb䅢ሢ Ӯទ֥㐀䘡䀔㐢۲䕥䌳㔳ᤤញऎ֥℘Ӱ ֒㠉㔢㌶⠸۱ิ σ㐀 㠉с䀢䉐䉷㜹䔈∧㡅ิσᜨ⢗֥⡹৯ ∧㐨㠉ᕕ䊇በ 㐱aֹׄaᙐ㝦䈹䎙a֧ᡑ㍡℅ᤤ䈙ুձ⦁֩䁂䐄֥┠䉰b 㕅㈢ᜨ⢗ᘦσᔱⅹ֤ጇ֡┠ট ᐠ㐢ふ䕙䉷᤹ն䅢҆ᙑᦘ 㐢ট䙗۱㈸֥䔨तᤤㅴ᜹b 72


㚓〙ট䍃 ḡ "-5"*."(&

ALEXANDRE 㝩 ANTHONY

VACCARELLO ۱㈸〰⥑յ䎙֥

2012ㆀᔕ㡴ਙ㐀䘡䀔b

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䎁䔧䅖㍹䁷䕙 ⤉҂ᐠ⅘䔕䅓ҕ䌄ਔ㐀㌷∲‫؟‬۱ऍն֥䘕 эb૫ਢ㑶䙙ᦈᝰ⠗䆇₃㍠ↈ㝓✂֥㦐ょ ⡹ซซ䀙䅅૫ ᕕ֥㦁็䑆ગ 㠉֥ပ䀔ᘦ㐒䆄≨┳≨ਔ䕧ն֥эᝰb≂฿ ⡘㥖ᖙ҃㐀䘡 䀔䉅㤴֥ૂุᡕ⠢҂֩b䅅ㆄ֥㐀㥔㦙䅓҂㙷 㐀䘡䀔䅅ㆄ ₇㐀ᖙ㔢 ㍴䕄㙷҄䔨Ѭᅤӫ֤㌶₃㐀bᡄ䀔㈡䕩֥づր䅓 㤗֒‫؟‬䌳 㡖㝖⡹Ӧ≕䎁⡹䌄㕨㈸᠃⠔ุ֥䄔֒䕙b㕨ૌ䁗 ㆄ䒇㐄ᤤ₇㐀b㠉૫ਢ֥็䑆 㐢Է䎙ጇ⡘㥖⡹䈨ょ㤇ሢ ᡄ䕩䆇₃㤖㌶ᡄ䕩᝔ᕃ᠃⠔֥㐀䘡䀔b㠉ૌ⁑䎁䅢۱኉ડ 癈৯֥㐀ս 㠉㉂㝩㝹ট֥䀔ሢ㍡℅ⅲ‸䉷۷‫؟‬䌳ᦈ֥ᖙ 䑂 ‫∳ط‬䘁䚃㦁॓ₕ֥㈆ᘦ㞆Ӧ≕㐒ุ䄔ⅲӮ㝩ᔵ℗᝔ᕆ ֥䀔ሢㆈ㐡b ⤉䎁㑖┢ิ֞䎁㖂ॢ䕙ईပ㐀䘡䀔֥㤨‫م‬b⤉㉂㝩䒃۱❱ 㤨㐢ᙸ䉷Ӕ䅢㉈⡹᠒㐄㤇Ĥ 㠉त֤㐢⡹᠒㐄㤇֥ 㠁ี㐢҂䔡֡o⡕䅢฿p㐄㤇b䙥 䔥 㠉ᦘ㐢ᕕՎ㍧㦄҂䅶 ѩづրӮ㝩㐸㞆㐄㤇䒃ሢ㐕ℒն 䀔֥֝䄂b Fashion Show Revolution, Alexandre de BetakaSally Singer, Phaidon ጇϱ㍠đ2017


㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷 ḡ"-5"*."(& 30."*/#"44&//&

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ૄ䅢ሢ䉰 BUREAU BETAK ㍡℅Է䈁 ញ䚒 㐳 Ҧ ᦇ ֥ ☕㈸≥ 䄃 ֥ 㐀䘡 䀔Мᥢ ᔱ㐢䅢۱⥤ն֥䕉䚒㤱 ⡐ ২㉦ DIOR ֥ 2015 Խ㢉㐀䘡䀔 Ч䅔 2015 Խ㢉᝔‫ ק‬㡴ਙ ᖙ҃ ‸ 䚈䅔㌶ 䆇₃㝩 B ER LUTI ㍡℅ ֥䆈㑨䘡䕆䚒〰č䚈䅔㢇Ďb

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Another brick in the wall ᝔㄰⡷֥ᥕ䘔

ᥕ䘔ૅ㑨ᡆ㍧ҟ䎁➉ሥ֥㜱㄰䔥⡷ 㕅㈢֮‫ט‬㈕㔈ᤒ ҟ҂䘆㕩֥❷㈸ゕ㡕 ⅲ≓䅢㝇〶➀֥䑂ফॢℵ ն㜵 ᡑ䉅䉵㡶֥䍁㦓खሢ 䆇₃䅢䚔䕧㤇‫ת‬ᘦ≦㍰֥ⅴ⡦ 䌹ਟ 䒃䚔ૅ㑨ᡆ㝩㈸ջট኉ડ晢䈁ਲᔘ֥䆈㑨䔥੪ 䘖㞕 Caroline Boudehen. ㍖䉅 Jérôme Galland ㍡℅ਲ᜹ট䙗䊇䍁㦒खሢ֥ૅ㑨ᡆն๏b



{ S K P } 㞕ᦈ㐴∲

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{ S K P } 㞕ᦈ㐴∲

ૅ㑨ᡆ֥䖘ุⅩ䘅⡷ЇᢑਆҪ֥䑂ফॢℵđ㚓䕙㝩ᝄ䊇㉈ㄗ䍁ડ∦㑱֥ㄗづ䑂ফu㢓֝i֣ᡵ٤‫ק‬㦓䆈㑨vb

79


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䉰坦㐔∡ᤤң઼ᙹᜡ᠃㙷Էပ֥ᥕ䘔ૅ㑨ᡆ䊇2014⢓૫㤵ព䕩ष ٢ 䒃䚔䑅ֹ૫⁦䍑ਆ㝇〶➀֥֒սૅ㑨ᡆ৫䙲䊇К≤㐱‫ת‬К∀֥ 䅢ᤖֹᡵ℉䆈㑨ㆉb䔈䚔ૅ㑨ᡆ䆇ᥕ䘔ん䎙‫ط‬Ӯ 䒃䕥ጦ㚄Ⅹᅣ҂ ᐠᜐ䌁ਔふᔵ䅢㠡ᖗ֥૫ષ 䅓㐈ふՖ䅢䕩㞕䆈ॢℵ䕙㜔䉆‫ط‬ጇ ᥕ䘔ૅ㑨ᡆ֥Ⅹ䘅㍡℅‫׀‬ᜉਔጦ㚄⠢㐒 䉤ᥕ䘔յ䎙玅ᤦਔ㐱↉ᙨ ᝲ֥Ⅹ䘅ุ ⅲ䕙ᡵጦ㚄Ⅹ䘅䌳㔳㉓㉰㤇սⅩ䘅‫✆ژ‬b䎁␦ሩᡒ খaҐᡑ኉䙲֥ॢℵ┢⎐䆇ु֞䍁ᘦ䔥ℵ֥䎙㦒䍦䉤 ็᝔֥҃अ ๙ᡸᡑ䉅۷เ㚉㐴≱㍧ ‫ط‬䒃䕥ᡑ䉅䉵㡶䎁ᡆ⡷۷㐢㠡㕦҂䎁b ᥕ䘔ૅ㑨ᡆ֥䖘ุⅩ䘅ЇᢑਆҪ䆈㑨䑂๏ 䆇₃㞆䊇ֹ㢇㐳֥٢䉈 ๏b䖘ุⅩ䘅㍦ᥢ䐅㐢䚓䉐䔈䚔䌹ਟ㒑≱֥‫؟‬ទ⡹๏₃oᥕ䘔䍉 䙖p‫گ‬ᤦ㐒Ҕ๏b䒃㥖㞆䊇ૅ㑨ᡆⅩ䘅ุᤤ‫ת‬ᘦ䌹ਟ䔥ℵ֥⦁ส㍡ ㎒ ᘱᙷ⌀㐢֒ս䆈㑨ᤤጦ㚄≦㍰֥ↈ⁀䔥㕦 㝩≤በ㞕䆈㈸㐔ิ បਔ䅢۱٤б䁗ӈ֥ሢ㕦b ᥕ䘔ૅ㑨ᡆ֥⡷҆ᤤ㜱҆ॢℵↈ䔦㉓ᤦ ૄ䅢ᘦժ䔥ℵᔱ㔓䈆 䙂ਲ᜹ 㐢㜹ૅ֥䑂ফֹׄb䎁䒃┢đ䆈㑨℗ૌ䉤۲䙗֥ᘦ㐒䍦 䉤ॢℵ ӯ㤈㕨ૌ㤨㤶䕙֥Է䈁㐕∲b䂔━aक़┢㔂‫נ‬cঞ ⠱Շ Christian Lemmerz ύঘᙹcή০䂀㔘 Olafur Eliasson જक़c ঊ‫ ض‬Michael Kvium ᤤ㜓⢄cύ㔂ী Tony Oursler ֩ট䙗㈆ㆃ ֥ᡵ℉䔡⠖䆈㑨℗ ҂≇䎁Վईပ䆈㑨䑂ফđ҆ᙑ䚒〰䅓Ӯ㝩ૅ㑨 ᡆᑷҟbύঘᙹcή০䂀㔘䊇ֻ50∷㝙⢄㔂㒈⢓䑂㝩օચᡵ℗ᡆ Է䚒֥u✩๕v The Blind Pavilion ⌀䎁䌹ㆉ⡷䑧֞ਔで㍦䔥ֹ

ૅ㑨ᡆ⡷ᔵऎ‫ת‬ᘦ䈁㤶֥㤇սਟ䌹b



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㒑ดԼੁa㎗ば।ㄸ₃䍁Գ֩㍡℅㝩ᥕ䘔ૅ㑨ᡆ䌹ㆉ۷เ晢䈁b

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{ S K P } 㞕ᦈ㐴∲

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{ S K P } 㞕ᦈ㐴∲

䒃Ⅱն㦒䘡䕆䚒〰Ч㍦䎁䊇䁗䑧๕⡷ᤤ๕㜱a㐄䌄䀠֥ᕕᦉ ն㜵 ₑᤥ㚓␢ᤤᡑ䉅䉵㡶b䒃䈰䔕ਔᥕ䘔ૅ㑨ᡆ䎁䕅৯䊇䕙ᡵ֒ս䆈 㑨ᖙ䑂֥㙷㐀 䅓⁦⁸ҕ䌄ᡵ℉䆈㑨℗֥ↈੀb 䒃䚔ૅ㑨ᡆ㙷㐀ᦘ㐢䅢㡴ਙ∅䌢㦙䕓⁑ᔘ֥ईပֹׄbጔਔ‫ק‬づ 㜃ጇห䑂₃҂ᕐ‫پ‬᜘䆈㑨㐶ҟ䔥㜱 㕩ᦘⅲ䁈㑨∅䌢䂉⊆a㑖Ҩጇ ϱ֩щ㉰⢓ᕃ⁑ᔘ℅ᦇ 㙷㐀䅓Ҧᦇ۲䕥ព䕩⁑ᔘb ҂ં㐢ᥕ䘔∖ะ ᦘ㐢ૅ㑨ᡆ䖘ุᤤ䌹ਟ㒑ด䔥ℵ֥爒䂐๙֡a㕐 ㎘㥈≷₃㎗ば।ㄸ 䌹ㆉ⡷ጡጡᔱҟ䙂≥㡱bᥕ䘔ૅ㑨ᡆ䉤ᔵห֥ Ⅹ䘅䌈䂓 յ䎙ጇ䅢۱䈨ᖙԷ䈁֥䆈㑨㐕㜱ล䍃b㌀ґ䎙㦒ᤤ㍡℅ 䌳㔳ℵ֥᥸Ҁ䉵㡶㠡㕦҂䎁 ‫ڤ‬㎙∓㐢bᥕ䘔ૅ㑨ᡆ҂䔸㐢䅢۱ᘱ ᙷ㈰㐀ᡑ๔䔶ੀ䘕֥љ䕅ॢℵ ᦘ㐢䅢ᘦ㈰㈸㝗ㅴ䘉䙲֥฿ֹb Чづห䑂ğօcᝲূ‫ر‬⡂čDan GrahamĎ≦䁂₀ 䑂ফ㉈づğ2017⢓11䍗7㉈䕄2018⢓2䍗25㉈ www.redbrickartmuseum.org



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A PASSION FOR CHINA

Ֆ60⢓սष㐑 FRANÇOIS DAUTRESME 䎁䅢㐷Է৫֥ COMPAGNIE FRANÇAISE DE L’ORIENT ET DE LA CHINE ⅉӫCFOC ᒃけ┢㤵‫م‬ᡵն䕩䑂㤇䕙ᡵ֥ጦ㚄㍹⁑䆈㑨₃㉈ӈ䉤〰b 㕨㈵䕣䊇䕙ᡵ⤢ը₃Ϥ䀀㞕ᦈđ䉤ふ㔆㈸㐶ҟյ䎙‫ط‬Ӯ֥ 㥈㦒Ѱ㠸ᡆp Ф㐴㝩䒅ᡨ֥┳㐆
䈃♙b䒃㞆䄀ᡑᔵ֥֞㐶ҟ㢓ᙧषখਔ䅢䕩 ᥢ㐕੪㦕℗֥㦃䀃㐴䅑 SKP䍴䕁หљⅲふ㞕㠸ᑷҟӯ㤈䊇ᔶ䒀૫ㄗ 䘖㞕 Catherine Ardouin. ㍖䉅 Vincent Leroux

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㚓〙ট䍃 ḡ $0635&4: 0' '3"/$0*4& %"653&4.&

‫م‬ᡵ㈸֥䕙ᡵ㦃


䚈䅔 FRANÇOIS DAUTRESME 䎁 㞆䊇 POISSONNIERS ਫ਼㌶ ֥ CFOC ҝ९ ㍖䊇70⢓սb Ч䅔 ۲䕥䖒щ䊖☹ᤤ぀ᙨᔱ 㐢 FRANÇOIS ֥㐶ҟ䖘ีb


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㕨֥䄀ᡑ⠉㉶٤ُ 㤗⁣Ֆ҂┘㐷b㕨֥䙲⁰ђ҃䕙ᡵ ҂ં㐢በ㐱

㍹⁑≱㤶֥┳㐆䑰〙b o๙ᡸₑ≨㐀ℵ㜃䅳 㠡㦃Ҭੁ㕦⥉㢇֥䑰

ᦘ㐢㤤ℵ 䔸㝩㔦અ۲䕥⠆ℵ㍹⁑䉤〰b㕨䅓䐑≨㒘ᡸ o⤢⠆䉐䉷

〙 㠉ᖙ㤇⡘㥖₇㐈㍹⁑ℹ㦀 ㈕䙥㐢㥓╖䉂㈸aᕙᥠᤔぷ֥䕙ᡵ⤢

Է䚒㐄䉤ゔऎ֥䆈ↀૅ䁈 ゔऎ≦ૅ֞㈰㈸䆇㝩㐢㝩ਔ㦐㆙䆈㑨‫ط‬

⠆ૌѩ҂㑃ጦ㚄㑱‫⁕ں‬䈗䁔⊖䕉 㕨ૌ㐢䉣䊇䘨ㆄэᝰ֥ 䒃㥖㐗

䚑bᡉᜱ㡴㚄a焣└aᖗ㎗㔓∙ゕa䅄Ҥa儙ઐ҃aщ䔦থ␩a⁩ 㐂

䔕ጡጡ⎐⅘ ҂ં㐢⤢℗฿≩䕙a❢૫㜱ᡄ㌶aᦘ㐢䎁⁒ᘨ๏ถ┢

ぢaҤ㥙a㕙䅩a䕀ԳaϢүaЇ䘡ᅣਘaыքa㠠╣∦᠐llՖ㠡֞

François Dautresme 䞗䞗‫ط‬ซ⠸㞆䕙ᡵ㐶ҟ℗䎁䅩ᡦ┢յ䎙֥䒅

䉷 ⤢⠆䉤ㅂ㔅Է䎙ਔ䕥䕥֥ᖙ⠒bp

ぷ㐕∲ ㌘㒑ᦆ㚓σ䎀㤇֥㎘㚈aષ㔕ᔘ㠸ุ㖃֥㑰۴a䙒㒑≢䄀

François Dautresme 䊇1925⢓ጇ㍹䎁µ┕䅢۱㡱ι䈙ুᤤૅ㑨֥

≶a㌕ᥦ㌀㔈ጂฬщશa䖒䂅ᔦ₃䂅ᤧ䙸aန૫⥨ᡑ䌐㎘aϤ⢓ਲ

㑖㤠❢ֻb䙗㥈 㕨⌀หљ㈵ι㍖䉅䆇₃┲㎘a‫⚀ث‬㎘ᤤ㑰】֩ն䙗

䔖a⡉‫ג‬ਲ䔖aড㌀ઐ҃≦䘡г℆Чaㄈ䕥ᦆ䖒∅ᅣ㐷Ҩa㒑ઑ戅 㐷

㈢䕙㕇㐷⎐㎙֥㠸〰b20㕑⡘⢓ 㕨थ‫ק‬䕙ᕐѩ٤㦐㆙㕦䎁֥‫ੰم‬

ញ䀖䕉ѓ䌈ਬㄕЇ֩​֩ 㠡ぷ҂䉷b䕙ᡵ㈸㐢᤹㡱ᦕ François ֥ ₇

䘓䅖 षਔ䅢℗㥈ᡕ⠢֥ព㔇 䘓㝩㌳℗ิប䆈㑨䘡㐩֥ᚑ㡀 䁂䉤ն

ь㕨ѩ҂䤩䕙㞕b㕨ᡸ㈀䎁䕙ᡵ੪㦕㐀 䙥㐢䉰䅢㞆䕙ᡵㅥ⢓ք㉁

䙗㈢㔳ᅣ䘡㐩ᠨग़֥ገԳᤤ❢૫b

ֹ⦀ 䒃㞆⢓ㅦ㈸䅓∳Վ䕧㦁㉂㐅ਔ䙗ₓ֥㞕ᦈb1995 ⢓ 㕨䎁µ

1963⢓ François 㐸Ց䎙٠䕙ᡵ 䕤䊇㐄㤇ਔք㉁䍅䄤ᤈ㤖ጧሥ֥

㊆અ⡘֥➀અ⁢≁‸ईပ㐸Ց㔆㈸㐶ҟ䑂b䔥ᥢֻ֥ᖗ۱㐶ҟ䑂

㑒㑒ᡸ㈀䎁㕨㦃䕙щ䔦֥䕙ᡵ❱b䒃䅢٠ ㈰㕨ᕕ䕙ᡵ䅢⅘ㅨ㦃

䆇䖒䙖㝩ี 䎁‫م‬ᡵ⢄㔂䂀䕳䆈㑨Ѱ㠸ᡆ䑂ጇb1999⢓ ᠧភ㍴䕄

Ց⢓ François ∦㐅ਔᥢটӮ㝩㜱ↈ҆ሥ֥ Jacques Duhamel ѩ

䌄㕨ᤦ䚒㜃ጇਔㅰսភ๓Ї䘡䆈㑨֥䑂ফb⠸㈸֥䅢ओᦉ۷㐢㍧

−㑃 ᥢ䒀֥䔵⥔ ᜗䐃Ҧᦇ䅢ሢ₇ⅲ 䎁 К≤ईပ֥॓ ₕ 䑂b㕨

㍧ጠᔘਔ㕨 o䉰䅢㞆㜱ᡵ㈸䎁䕙ᡵ㚘ֹ㌶ᖙ䄠䕙ᡵ㞕ᦈ 䒇㐢☕㈸

۷䉷┠䉰ᦒ䙂ડㄨ㈵䁑 ⥳ђ۲ֹ㐱₂ ᖙ㤇ฐ㕤⡘㥖₂♆⁓Ղ

䈁㜱bpFrançois Dautresme ҂≇㝩㈵ㅴ‫ ㍹ط‬䅓䕤䊇㈵ㅴii㕨

ㅥ ₕ 㑨 ᤤ 䉦 ૅ 䎙 㦒 䊇 䅢 ㍦a⁕ 䖒

䎁ㅖਢ㎈Ќઅ䖘ትն㦒䆈㑨䑂ष⡆

䕉a⁕ ศ Ռ 䊃 ⁕ 㐢 ≁ 㑧 ᅣ 䕓 ֥ ញ

ᑷড়֥֒㝂 㝩76㕑֥㈸㍹ᦆ㌶ਔओ

ऎ ᤤ㉈ӈ䉤〰 bFra n ç o i s 䅓 Ֆ Վ

ׄb㕨䈗Վ㠡‫م‬䎁 20 04 ⢓䕙‫م‬ᤦ

ष 㐑ਔ۱㈸ 㐶 ҟ 䒃 㥖 ҟ 〰 ㉈ ᥢ

䚒֥o䕙ᡵ㞕ᦈ⢓p⡘⢓ ㅖ䄀⅘֞

䎁 ⒐ ᙷ 䅐 Ϥ⁘ ₂ 㜂 ֥ 䄲 ㅶ 㢇Ӯ 㝩

㍹ㄗ㈆㦃㚇㉰ጀပ֥䚃ᥢ䅢۱䑂ফ

Le carnet d ’un voyag eur en

䊇ѯ‫؟غ‬㎅ն∑⡆b㊈Ⅴग़≇թ֥

C h i n e v䆈 㑨 䑂 ֥ 䖘 ∀ bᕕ 㕨 ‫ط‬

Françoise 㡖㝖䕧㔷〰⥑㦓㤶ᤤ❢ᒃ

䂓 ট ֞䒃۱ 㦁ᡵ℗ᘱᙷ 㚇 ㉰䅢۱

㍡℅ 䈗Վ䊇 2011 ⢓ⅲՎ䕧䐃ն㉁ↈ

㦁㦄䄧b1966 ⢓ 12 䍗 Fra n ço i s

ᜓ㦁㉁ᔖ㐗b㕰ᤤ⤧‫ظ‬ઑৡ᠃㙷−

Dautresme 䎀Ցট֞䕙ᡵ ѩथ‫ק‬Է

䑕ਔ䒃㥖٤ُ㐶ҟ ⅲ㕩㡗㦃䒅ҟ䎁

৫‫م‬ᡵ‫ת‬ᘦ䕙ᡵព㔇 Compagnie

㞆䊇µ┕≓↉ Saint-Denis 㐱֥ញ䚒

française de l ’O rient et de la

㐳նੌ┢ 䅓づր䙂䆈㑨䙇䘁㈸⁕Ѱ

Chine ⅉӫ CFOC Ď षゑਔਸ਼䅢

㠸ᡆ㄃䁖㐶ҟ㐗䅸b

۱੪ӱ ⦀ဒ㕨㕵㌶੪㚕֥ᦘ䉷ਆ

䒃䚔㥈㦒Ѱ㠸ᡆᔵ㑰䅢䕇֥䑂㐓ᘦ

㞆ถֽૈbถૈ Françoise ጔਔ᜗

㐒䉰䌶Ч֥䖘㈸ François ㈘৫ ο䑰

䐃 Ҧ ᦇ 䑂 ফa䘖 㥧 㞕ᝠ 䔥 㜱 䅓㍡

䖘ีᙑোӯ㤇 㝅㉦ऍ㡷❵䅲֥ӧਙ

℅䔦〰ᚑ䘡Ġ㉦≂䆄҂䎁㈸㐕֥ถ

㐳b450〶➀ն֥ॢℵ┢ 䑂㐓䙂Ї ও䀕䒅䂉⠤⁣ ᠢᔖ㐷㜃Ӛ䎁⡷ӑᡸ6000Ⅱ㠸〰 ⥐ਙ䔈も֥ष٢

ֽ Gérard 䐅䘓䔧㌳䅖䈹㥃֥҆ᙑb㊈۱㈸㝅㉦牰㦕㊈Ⅴग़ 㐙ⅲ 䕙ᡵ⠆ℵ֥ጦ㚄ញ䆈ᖙ䄠ᡑն ព㔇Է䅖ጆづ֥㥈ᒃけ䎁 Saint-

㐒Ѫৰᡦᘱᙷ䅢֡​֥֡㞕ᦈ∕㤲 ㈰㈸થ҄ふ䕙 ㌴⅕䖒щa⤢ऎ

Roch ਫ਼㌶ 㕇ᥢព㔇♠䀵䎁 Saint-Germain ն֡ष㍡ਔₑ℗ᙑ

ᠢ㜵a䖄Џa㔈ጂaᠢ₁ ひゔaศՌa䌐㎘ll㚉ᡸᚑ䘡⦁㐩֩㐶

ᒃ ᥢট䁂‫ ק‬Haussmann ն֡㌶䅢۱䉰 Ruhlmann 䊇30 ⢓ս㍡℅

ҟ ㈸ૌ֤䆇㉂㐅ਔ∧㞕㈸ᡂ ₃‫ظ‬㚀֩҂㙷֥㍠‸∖Ҫ㦓㖃 ふ

֥❢ᒃ৫䙲bㅂᤦ֥㐢 䒃㞆䘡㐩䆈㑨ն㎉䅓䌄‫ת‬ᘦ㞕ᦈ䉷ᡸห㑉

䕙ᡁ䊇⤢⠆֥㐶ҟ۷㐢䑅ਔ㤗֥֒б䕧b㐶ҟ〰⡷҂‫ك‬᜘ᢑ䌥䈁

䍄ᙑ 䐑≨䊇䘆㕦−ր⠸㞆䂀䕳ᠢᔖ䘓℗‫؟‬⢓b

֥ᔘ㠸䎙㦒 ২㉦ᙑљ㤶䔄⁷㤦aᅥ᜘aጦ䙣−ս֥ㅥ㜥a㊈䙲≁

‫ת‬ᘦ䒅ҟ

ᙶ‖ᤤ฿㍹䅢ᕕ֥牄版ᤤ㥈⤀bጦ㚄䕙䅤֥㤗ᡁ㐶ҟ䅓Фᙑ䚒䅢 ো Їও⡘㥖䎁ը䘠┢С㑃䚅≵֥䕙䅤㎉a䅄㎉䉤ট㉰䅄֥Җ⅂

CFOC ᤹␥⌀㑃֞㐀㌷ᤤ℗ं㍡℅䍴䕁䎙㦒㎉ૌ֥ㅥ杗 㞆䊇 Poissonniers ਫ਼֥ҝ९۷㐢䕩㈸ㆈ䔥㉹榕֥㈵❢ֹׄb䎁⡘┢ ฿

㌕ᥦ۴aऍ㦒熖煦aу᥵a㍒োa䒅䖄aਲ䔖a⤖‑a䅑⡀օ۴֩䅄

≩䕙๖ᕒ‫ן‬䙂ડડ֥ํᡦ⡉㤡 ┢㚈䘡䙂Їઅ㝇㤶a҂℅ふ㑶֥䒅

ᅣbFrançois Dautresme ㍴䕄ょਔ۱䕙㞕⠖䙙oᕀ䐆ਟp ㈸ӫo⒐

Џbईُิথa㝓㌓a⤀☰a牄版☰a䖒щ䊖☹aศゔՌ⥗aᡳ㝀〣⦅

ᕀpb㢇䕄⤢⠆ ㌶䕄ᡂ  䕙ᡵѰն≦㍧֥㞕ᦈᔱ㐈o⒐ᕀp㍧᜹㦐

֩ ᔱӮ㝩㍖䉅ն〙֥⡷㉖ ѩㅑઔ㌶㡑䈨ਔ‫م‬ᡵն䕩֥⡐ᡑ

㆙ 㕨䅓Ӯ㝩⠖ᜈふ㐄֥䕙ᡵ䘓℗ 䆇 François ᕕ䕙ᦃ㞕ᦈ֥㈵ιᤤ ਔ∧ ጇϱ䕙ᡵ㞕ᦈՍᑷ֥㈸䁂٤㕨⠩㑧b

҂ં㐢〶㉈ं㕦a㉈ӈ㍹⁑䉤〰 ᦘ㐢⡘㥖䌄ᦖ≴㡕㡕㤗ᡁ֥㠸 Ⅱ 䒃㊈㎗⢓ট 㠉㕦䄀⅘䔥㠸ᔱ☕㈸䎅ฑ҂䆄 p㕨㉦Վ㒘֡b㕨䅓 і㐓䙗ₓ㠡‫م‬㤨㤶䕙ᡵ㈸‸䚑ጇጄ♁֥‫ת‬㡆 䈗㝩㐄䉤֥㠸〰₇䉷

≁ㆀ10䍗10㉈đA┕】έ㊃čPIASAĎ⥉છ㦕㑃㜓ईပਔ FRANÇOIS DAUTRESME ֥㐶ҟ⥉છ‸ o⒐ᕀpⅲ䒃ᙘᕕ䊇䕙ᡵ㞕ᦈ֥㈵ㅴ 䌄ふ㕩㙷ᤔҟ℗ᙑ㤰đ㈰䒃㥖㞕㠸ℑ䀵С㑃䒅ҟb

䅢‫֥ק‬䕓᜹ ‫ط‬䉷䅢‫ק‬䕓᜹֥㠸〰₇㐢ૅ֥b1976 ⢓ 䕙ᡵष㐑ᕕ 㜱ष٢ François 䘐≅⁣‸ㄗ㝔ふ㕨㎄ᙘ ☡㢇ਔ䊕㔓㝇䑔℆♙⤢ը

88

㚓〙ট䍃 ḡ $0635&4: 0' '3"/$0*4& %"653&4.&

牖ᤤ㔓↘牖熘 ᦘ䉷䌐Ҽ で㡕ᡙ™㌶֥㢔ᤴ 䆇₃սі㤦㉵ᤤ㥦֥


1963ё, FRANÇOIS ۰

ᅣᦈ㔐Ѕн񂤥ဗϣ㔐, ўј цЅнϣኒ㕲К񂤥” Ч䅔ğট䙗䕙ᡵ֥ศ䕉ゔ⠈đ‣ড㌀‫֥ט‬ 䊁ґэᦈ‫پ‬᜘b䚈䅔䕙㚓 FRANÇOIS 䎁㞆䊇 SAINT- ROCH ਫ਼㌶֥㐸℗❢ᒃ☡䉅b


On the map ᦆֹӮ㚓

₂ૅ䍉∅㑁a䚒℗aҦ䑂㈸aѰ㠸ᡆᡆሥ֩‫؟‬䔧䊇䅢㍦ ‫؟‬䌳␠∲ 䆈㑨℗ㆂ䕁∡㤇㝩ᡵ℉䆈㑨㠱㕹㌶֥ↆׄ㈸㠸b 䒃㞆ӑ䍒ุ㡴ᤤⅵ∲֥䆈㑨℗䎁ㄲ‫ט‬㈸㞕ᡁᦒ֥㙷㐀㍧۶䊇㍠‸ ѩ䆇ֹ㚓䚒㝩Է䚒ᘦ㐒 䕧㦁㑈┠ᤤ‫ק‬㞆۲䕥Ω䔲㔅㝱b 䘖㞕 Caroline Boudehen. ㍖䉅 Jérôme Galland ㆂ䕁∡䌄ふ䚒〰अ҆ห㥧č䕀㌶㒑⠰Ďb



{ S K P } ➁≴ฐ䙢

ㆂ䕁∡㞆䊇К≤֥ਆ۱ញ䚒㐳ॢℵb


{ S K P } ➁≴ฐ䙢

䆇ጦ㚄㒑⠰䚒㝩Է䚒ૂ∴֥ㆂ䕁∡đ㌧䉤ѩᖙ․ふ㑖ᦆָ䍧b


{ S K P } ➁≴ฐ䙢

䙗㠉‫ק‬㞆 㠉㐢䅢۱ Mapperbpㆂ䕁∡䒃Ϯ‫ק‬䈄䙗ₓ 䄀㍰⊃⊃ѩջ䙂′ḇ ֥㝡㥓bMapper 䅓⌀㐢ֹ㚓֥䕉㚓䍀b䎁ㆂ䕁∡⡘䚔㞆䊇≤በ‫ת‬ К∀֥ញ䚒㐳┢ ㈘㐄ᕒડਔ۲㐒۲䄰ֹ֥㚓b䒃㥖ֹ㚓 ⁕์ડ㄰ ૫a⁕〶ข䘷㌶ ⁕䆄㜹Ӯa⁕≉㦕䕙 ⁕ᤷϢa⁕ґ㌀ ふ䕙䉷㥖㍴ 䕄ᦘऎ䉷㍹⠗֥ਲ㦙b㕩ૌ҂ᐠ䑅ऌਔញ䚒㐳֥䉷㦓ॢℵ 䅓䑅ऌਔ 䆈㑨℗֥㠡㦓㈸㍹b ㆂ䕁∡Ֆ 2010 ⢓ष㐑㚇㍦ֹ㚓⁃䕉b䕄≂ 䒃㞆㤇⢓48㕑֥䆈㑨 ℗䅧㈢䉤ડㄨ㈵䁑҂ᕐֹᕕ㕦ጡ֥ᦖ≴ิጇّ㔅 ѩ䁂䐄ਔℷ㉖ ѩЇa᜘ᢑ‫ژ‬ᤖ֥oֹ㚓pট≉㦕Է䚒b䒃䕥Է䚒ᘦ㐒㜹䔈ֹّ䉈 ਔ䆈㑨℗֥㔅㤨 ӯ㤇ጇ㕨ᕕ䊇㍠‸䔑䕗a䑷䁈㔅㤨֥㐕∲ᡄ 䅓 㐢ਸ਼োֹ䤇㐨ਔ㕨ᕕ䊇┳㐆a㈸ো หљ㐢䆈㑨֥┠∧b㕨䎁ㅖ㐷 Ӓ䎙֥䕀㌶ 䆇⠰㒑ᦆ㢇⡘㥖㚉ᡸᒀ⡱㐶₂‫ط‬ট֥㦄㡕b‫ط‬䒃۱ 䚒㝩㕨Է䚒ញऎ䔥䅢֥ᒀ⡱⌀ν䕆䎁䔐䎁≉㦕䕙֥䚒〰⥥ ৵− ᡐጤ䙂ਆ۱҂㙷֥㐀ℵׄ 䅢ᕆ㐢㤇սii㍴䕄㐢ӑ㤇ս ਸ਼䅢ᕆ 䐅㐢ᡸ㈀ᤤጦ㚄b ㆂ䕁∡䚁┢㢙䙂䂅 ҂๔ֹট
䊇ᦆ䚒₃぀⡆䔥ℵ ᘱᙷጤ㕠䉵䅳 䎁䅢่㠡㦓֥㐀ℵ䕶㌶ ㅨ㦃ⅲ㝓✂ᤤԷ䚒㐕∲ᤦᖗ㝩䅢bᐢ‣㌀ ‫ֹ֥ט‬㚓㌶ ㍧ㄠ⠰ґ᠅ীጇ≦㈘֥ⅵ∲ ՙ㡷҂㙷֥гጠ⁕䎁ѓ ℆∙ׄ ⁕䎁૭⁃҂㙷ӱᕃ֥ㅴ䀴᜹ᔘb䅢䑔䑔ֹ֥㚓䍅ӑ䍒ਔ䆈 㑨䚒〰֥ᘙኖ 䒃䕥ᡄҳ㐕∲֥ᔵห㐴∀҂ᐠ㐢㕨֥㔅㝱⠢㐒ᤤ 䍹ุ 䅓㐢㕨ᕕᦉ㔅я֥ሢ䌑ॢℵ ۷Ӯ㝩ਔ㕨∅㑁֒ս䆈㑨֥∅ ᅣ ㆂ䕁∡㤨䅅∅㑁䁈㍹֥⡷㉖ध٤⡘㥖䀙䅅㔉℆䉇М֥㍧ύ┠ ં ‫ط‬㐢䈨ਵ㕨ૌᄄ䔕㔅ॉ ᠡৣ㕨ૌⅩ᠐۱㈸֥㐕∲ᡄ 㑈┠㔅䀴 ₃㉈ᥢ֥Է䚒℅ᦇb ᕕㆂ䕁∡‫ط‬䂓 䆈㑨℗䅓㙷㐀ӵքਔ㍠‸㢓ᙧ֥㍦ᙘb㉦ᤥ䎁㔆➅ 䌄ពषa㝡ᡄ䌄ᥓᡄ֩ᖗ䌳㤗ᕕ㐗㠸ℵ䑧֞〶᥅ 䒃䅢㠁ี㤅֤䉩 㝩䕧䅅 䒃䅓㐢㕨㍦ℷ䆈㑨℗a∅㑁₃Ҧ䑂㈸֩‫؟‬䌳㍦ᙘ㐀֥㦕㝩 ۴ऌbጔਔ㑖‫℗م‬aᦆ℗a‫ג‬ख़℗a♙㤴䆈㑨℗aҦ䑂㈸a㍖䉅㎉a㦕 㝩䆈㑨℗֩㍦ᙘ㜱 ㆂ䕁∡㙷㐀ᦘ㐢ૅ㑨ᡆᡆሥ ֹ㚓֥ᜨ⢗㈰㕨֤ 䆇ⅲ㌶㑩۲䕥ਵ䌑₃㐄⅖ᘦ‫م‬ᤤ฿ֹ㝇㠸䥐⠵㤗৵ 䅓㈰㕨ⅲ㐀ℵ ॢℵᦈb䅢Ϯն䕩๙ӈФᔘֹ−㑃᥸৳㝓㕦ջট⁕ㄲ℘֥٤ᑷ㦒 㦙㐀ℵ㦙 ‫ط‬ㆂ䕁∡҂ᐠड़‫ק‬䒃䕥᥸৳㝓㐀ℵ㦙֥թ䎁 ۷䖘ᔘ䌄䔥 ᠃թb㕨㉂㝩 ᥸৳㝓षԷਔ䅢۱㦁֥㠡ㅹ㝱ᕃ 㝓✂৳−b㕨ℑ䀵 Ҁ኉֡ o㤇䎁 ն℗䎁㝓㌶㔦㕤۲䕥䔡㐅 ۴ऌ۱㈸ᡄׄ䕧䙸ᤤⅩ᠐ 㦄㡕 ㈕㈒㍆ਔᕕ㐕∲䔈ุ㚓≱֥㉂䔡b㐕∲⌀㤴䅢䙸ऍ㦒〧㚓 䎁 䒃䄰䅢䕥䔈ุ֥␱℧㢇 㕐〙ᦈ֥䔡㐅ᅤ⡹Ф䙸䔦ょটbp䈗Վ ㆂ 䕁∡๙ᡸֹ㚓ট℧᠐䔈ุ㚓≱ 㐵㚓䕧Ⅹ۲䕥䔡㐅∙ׄ䔥ℵ֥৳− 䈁䈄b

䆈㑨䔥ਫ਼ 1969⢓ ㆂ䕁∡ጇ㍹䊇ᚔⅩ䑓䕲 Ֆ㥈䁈㡩㑖‫م‬b䒃㐢㕨ฐ㕤㉂㐅֥ ֻ䅢۱䆈㑨ૂ∴ 䅓㐢㕨ֻ䅢Ց㡩֤㎉㍹⚆┠֥㚕≷b㑖‫م‬㐢䅢❢ ㈆૫㦙֥䁈㡩 䍦гₕㅂaᔵ❢दㅈa䆈㑨ӯ㤇aᙑ㤰ጦ㑁 䒃㥖䈗㔳 䔥ℵ㦓Ӯਔㄲն֥⤙ջ৵∦bㆂ䕁∡䅓ⅲՖ䒃㤱ጦ㚄㞕ᦈ┢ਵ⚃ ֥֞∅䁈┠⢗㒖㐀э๙ ѩՖՎ㦓Ӯਔ㕨۱㈸֥∅䌢䑷䁈bՎ㜱 Ֆ 㑖‫م‬䕙⁔֤֥Ω䔲ุ㡴֥䉅㤩䅓ӯ㤇䎁ㆂ䕁∡֥Է䚒֒䕙b㒑⠰㑖 ‫ م‬䒃۱㑧䊇䕙ᡵ┳㐆ᤤጦ㚄֥㑖㥧㦓㐒 ֞ਔㆂ䕁∡֥㐷┢ь ᦈ Ӯ䒇㐄֥㞕ᦈ‫ ✆ژ‬ѩ∳Վট㔅ᄄ⡘㥖㝩┳㐆ੀጦ䕄≂֥㍠‸ѓ䘳 ֥䕧䅅㦙bરг Ӯ㝩ㆂ䕁∡ӂ㑩䙗㠉֥ញऎb

94


ㆂ 䕁 ∡ ֥ ញ䚒 㐳 䅢䌀b䚈䅔 䆈㑨 ℗䆇 㤇 ս ㉓ ᤦ ጦ 㚄֥Է䚒ᘦ㐒 ӯ 㤇䆈㑨㔅㝱


{ S K P } ➁≴ฐ䙢

ϣ‫ צצ‬с֘ᔵսօϦਵभӑጄ ㅔ₧ ဗᅙᥲ㐅 ኙᐢ ᤖ‫ا‬ᕄⅅϤጀϥј ᜥᜳথᡄф՚Մ Їϥ јцҦᜥ喔 Կ㕔ᔱҾ񂤥” ֹ㚓䚒㝩ㆂ䕁∡֥䆈㑨і㤇ᘦ㐒 䅓ّ䉈ਔ㕨Ч㈸֥㔅㝱⠢㐒ᤤ㐕∲ᡄb



{ S K P } ➁≴ฐ䙢

1992 ⢓ ㆂ䕁∡Ֆ䒄ⅴૅ㑨䁈䍉ϱᦆ㡴и䅖bՑ⢓ 㕨㑃䄲ҕ℘䊇 ᤅ䁸䀶ᦆ⒃₃㤠ᝐ䆈㑨䕙㦃䁙
䑂ጇ֥oᥢ 89 䕙ᡵ㦁䆈㑨䑂p 䒃 㕄㐢㕨֥㐸۱䕧䅅ն㦒䑂ফbㆂ䕁∡֥⤶䕳䆈㑨㍹䁷䐅㐑䊇 1999 ⢓䊇⚆ᕙ֒ս䆈㑨䂉⊆䍉ईပ֥oК≤䎁⚆ᕙp৳䑂 2007 ⢓䊇 ⤙䍑䔡⠖֥ㄗѯᦆ⒃ईပ֥۱㈸䑂ফ䐅㈰㕨֤䆇䎁ᡵ℉䆈ฆ㌶䅢 䑂ᥓ㚓b 㐗㐄㌶ 2005 ⢓ 㝱‫؟‬০䂀ᤤέ‫غ‬ѵหѰ㠸ᡆčVictoria and Albert Museum ⅉӫ V& AĎईပoBet ween Past And Future: New Photography And Video From Chinap㍖䉅♙㤴䆈㑨䑂㐀 ㆂ䕁 ∡₇䆇u㞗㍦㡴ਙv㍸⠖ն䎘b䑰〙┢䆈㑨℗Ч㈸ኅઊ㌶㍦㉰≴ ㍦ ㌶㥧䙂㢕ᥕ㦖⡐֥o҂p䙙b๙ᡸՎ䚒〰 䚒䒀㤨䅅ฐษ䎁ૂุ㐀 ս㢇 㞕䙙‫ژ‬ᤖ㐢㉦ᤥ䖘֝۱㈸֥b֒㍦㆒㐢Фᔘ−㑃㞕䙙֥䍹ุ 㐀 㜱䎁ᦖ≴৯ਈնᡸ䙗㠉 䌶Ч㔆➅֥⡷䎁䅓Фぇっᡑb2005 ⢓ ֥u㞗㍦㡴ਙvषゑਔㆂ䕁∡ᥢ䀵֥䅢㡴ਙԷ䚒 ⅲ㍦ุ䘕ᦈ㝩‫ژ‬ ✆ ㍴䕄Ӯ㝩㤶䔄bጔਔ㤶䔄‫✆ژ‬ᤤ㜱䎁䁦৯֩ีᅣ ᡢ癈a┳㐆₃ 㐀ℵ֩ᜨ⢗䅓‫؟‬Ցጇ㤇䎁ふᡄ⢗㍖䉅ᤤϱᦆ䚒〰┢ 䚒㝩㕨षԷ

␠∲䆈㑨℗ㆂ䕁∡㍦ℷ‫؟‬䔧 ጔਔ䘓䘇䊇䆈 㑨Է䚒 䅓㐢䅢⠖㈸㞕㐄⅖䒀b䉹䅔 㕨㞆 䊇К≤֥ញ䚒㐳㉰१䅢≱

ֹ㚓㡴ਙv䔥ㄗoᡸᕄ㐀づp֥Է䚒䖘ีb Ֆ 1990 ⢓ょ ㆂ䕁∡৯㦕䊇䤇㐨㈆ㆃ኉ኇ֥✷‫؛‬䌄ነ㚒 ѩ䆇ㄗ㞑 䆈㑨℗֥䙈㖃⁑䍓䊇ᡵ℉䆈ฆb㈵ι≨ᑷ㎔Սᤤ䑷䁈ѩ䆇‫م‬ᡵ䑷 ㈸㈰ Ќઅc㊃หčJean-Paul SartreĎ㝩≦㍰֝㎉֥㕨 ⁦⁸ҕ䌄㐀 սэㄉ ѩᕕo֒ս㐕∲֥ᡕᘙ䌄䙗䉰pa o۱㈸䌄㜂ุp₃oጦ㚄䌄 㤇սp֩Ω䔲ิጇ䕓䅶ᤤّ㔅b

㈸㞕㐄⅖ 㤇䎁 ㆂ䕁∡䎁К≤㍹⁑ᤤញ䚒 ᢙ㞑䕙ᡵ֒ս䆈㑨֥䕧䅅㦙ᤤс 䅅㦙b⊆ふ䌶䈗 㕨㉂㝩 䕙ᡵ䚒㝩㐕∲նᡵ 䙗㈢ᕕ㈆ㆃӁ㍹䙂䅢 ‫֥ק‬䉅㤩৯bᡸ㈀㑶㎗⢓ট ≨ℂᤤ㞕ᦈҪ૫֥㈆ㆃᦈ㤇㤶䎙Ӯ䕙 ᡵ㍠‸֥␥㔴эㄉ 䒃㥖ᕕ㕨֥㔅㝱⠢㐒ᤤԷ䚒ᘦ‫م‬ょਔ㤗䈵֥䉅 㤩 ␠㞕ᦈ᥸ᔘ䅓䎙⌀ਔ㕨ញ䚒֥䅢ն҆ᙑӮᡶbㆂ䕁∡㍦ጡ䕙ᡵ ᤤ㡆ᘦ֥ↈ⁀ጡ 㤶䔄ਔਆᠦ㐀սᥒੀ֥ↈհb㕨ⅲ‫ת‬ᘦጦ㚄䆈㑨 ᘦ㐒č২㉦㑖‫م‬ĎӦᒆԷ㦁 䎁֒ս䌈≴䕙䕧㦁䤇㐨b㕨Ֆ㝹ⅲጦ㚄 㐴㝩ӧ⊖ᡸ㐀 ّ‫֒ط‬䚒≂㉈㐕∲㔅㤨ุ㡴֥䍦㦕䔥֡bㆂ䕁∡ᜐ 䌁ਔ䆈㑨℗䅢۱䕧䅅֥䔧䐃ii䆈㑨℗䀢ⅲᥓն㔅㝱ᤤ㈵ㅴ≦㍰ ऎุᦈ 䆇Վটᕕᦉ֒ս㐕∲b 䔐䈗㉦Վ 㕨䎁䘓䅖䁈㑨∅ӱ䕙䕅৯㜃ᔘo䙥ุ䆈㑨p 䖘䑔䆇㞕ᦈ 䂉⊆㝩⁢጖ 䆇㈸֥䙗㠉〃⥡ᤤ㈆૫㔷䎙㝩ᤢ㦃 䘇㉰㍹⁑≨䄔ᤤ ㍠‸ᡁᦒ ѩิጇ䆈㑨ᘦσbㆂ䕁∡㤨䅅๙ᡸo䙥ุ䆈㑨p֥ᜨ⢗ট 䔕⠒ 䆈㑨⎐䆇䚒㝩ㄲ৯䈨ㅱ ՜≉䕙ᡵ㍠‸ጦ㚄䌄㈆ㆃᦈ㤇㤶֥ᤤ 㥦㤗㉓b ᡁ䊇֒ս䆈㑨 ᦘ䉷䅢ᕉҬ㆑b֒ㆂ䕁∡֤䔡⠸㞆䕙ᡵҟ℗䆇㌶䆓 ฿Ω᠑㉰㞕䆈‫گ‬㦐㐀づ䔡⠖䈁ն০ᦆ℗֥䚒〰㐀 㕨֒㢇㦃䕙֥ 㤨‫م‬㐢o䒃㞆ҟ℗䆇㙷䄰䒃гㄕ ⎐䆇㐶㢇㎗‫؟‬㞆Ч㚘䆈㑨℗֥䚒 〰 ѩ∳Վᕕ㕨ૌิប㐄䕓֥䔘ት 㕨ふ㐄㐢䉷⡹৯㝩䕙ᡵ֒ս䆈㑨 ֥ᖙ䑂䚑ጇ᠂㤈֥bp ㆂ䕁∡ ҂ᐠ㐢䅢㞆‫؟‬૫֥䆈㑨℗ ᦘ㐢䅢㞆㈸㞕䖘䈄㐄⅖䒀b֒ Ф㠁֞䉐䉷‫؟‬䌳䆈㑨ጠ∀֥㕨䎁䆈㑨ਵ䌑䕙㐢ᙸ䉷㝹㍙ਝ֥㦕䅖 㐀 㕨ᜓ䔥䅢㥓㒘 o䆈㑨≨㥃㌳bp ㆂ䕁∡䐑ጇϱu䉅㤴䌄ᥢ㤇սva u۳㠉䅢۱૫ऎva 䙗䉰֥䉷㤕㦙va u䕧䅅֥㐢㤇ሢva u㍖䉅䔥ᥢ֥㍖䉅v₃ 䙥ุ䆈㑨ંv֩䆈㑨┠ં䖙䚒b

98



{ S K P } ➁≴ฐ䙢

IN HIS GARDEN 䎁֬ᡵ䍃֥ᦁ䌹┢

҂ં㐢⁃ᦆᦘ㐢䘡䕆䆈㑨đ֬ᡵ䍃㐑䕤Ⅎት䆇䙗㈢㝩䕙㦃䖘ี֥ іղᘦ㐒 ฐษ䎁۲۱㐀ս㈸䌄䙗㈢a䙗㈢䌄䆈㑨a䆈㑨䌄㈸䔥ℵ֥ᡁ㡴 㕨֥䚒〰ӯ㤇ਔ∴䊇㍰ぷ䌄ᠹᐣ䔥ℵ֥֒㢇㐕∲ 䘖㞕 Caroline Boudehen. ㍖䉅 Jérôme Galland

100


䆈㑨℗֬ᡵ䍃䌄ふ䚃㦁ն㦒䘡 䕆䚒〰u⤴䂀ᦁ䌹 IIvb


{ S K P } ➁≴ฐ䙢

֬ᡵ䍃֥䎔づ䚒〰ᤤ䀤‫؟‬㙷Л䆈㑨℗䅢䄰 㐵㚓∦ᤦጦ㚄䌄㤇սb㈢‫ ط‬Ֆ ㌶㐕ℒ90⢓ս䆇oᦁ䌹p㝩䖘ี䑂षԷ䚒㐀ょ ֬ᡵ䍃㈰ጦ㚄ૅ䁈䆇䅢䕥۷ ℘㢕⁑ᝄⅢ֥ᘦ㐒䌄֒㢇㤗䌕b֬ᡵ䍃֥ਆⅡu⤴䂀ᦁ䌹vն㦒䘡䕆㡴ਙ 䚒〰 㝅㉦㢔≴bふ䕙u⤴䂀ᦁ䌹 IIv䊇2016⢓䎁㦁℘ぁᡵ℉㒈⢓䑂䑂ጇb 䒃ਆⅡ䚒〰ऎ䉷ㄲਛ֥㤶䔄䈁䈄 䆇₃䀤‫؟‬⡤㈸䁗㞁֥㝡⠃㡷∙bᦁ䌹┢֥ 䅢㌘䅢㎘ 䅢ᦁ䅢Ҥ ᔱ䉷ふᕕ䈵֥㞆䕆ᤤទ⡹ 䐤ु䔥㢇 㔕ᥤ᠐Ӯਔ䅢۱ᤤ 㥦֥䔈ุb҄㉰u⤴䂀ᦁ䌹 IIv ㉦㙷≉㉰ਔ䅢۱㌢ਊa‫؟‬ґa≥ぷϤጇ֥㐕 ∲b⁑ᔘ㐒䘡䕆㜹㈆䉰≶䙖䙸Ӯ 䎁℘ㄲਔॢℵ㠡㤕䂒㍥㥔ᡶ֥㙷㐀 ␰㈵ ֥᜹त䅓᜹㈥ਔ䎁ᦁ䌹┢o䉵㜵p֥㈸ૌ ㈰㕨ૌӦ≕䎁䒃䅨ᒂ䌹䕙b慉ᙒ ‫؟‬ґ֥䔩㠸a㦓㦓㌀㌀֥หնᦁ‫أ‬aᡣ㦓ᠹ䘥֥㌘㎘֩​֩ Ҫጇ҂ㅹ֥≥㡱 ㈰䉵ग़⡐҂㢃−bᡄ䕩㔕ᥤ䕆㍦व✀‫֥غ‬⠖䖙 uιৡ㔈થ䉵㢔≴v䕙 㕦䉷 ֥㠸〰aᔘ䔩㠸aᦖ≴ᔱ⎐䆇҂ᕐэ㦓b

Ω䔲
ᡘ 䎁֬ᡵ䍃֥䘡䕆䚒〰䕙 㐀ℵ٢ᦙਔ↘҄ 䎁≶䙖䈨ょ֥ᦕু⁉⚁ሢ૫〶㡕 ᥢ 䉵ग़䙨㉰䅢䚔❷ភ ष㐑䉤䄀≡䙓㡷ᡄҳ䚒〰֥㡷∙b䘡䕆┢૫ૄ䅢䙸 䔩㠸ᤤ㖂ᥳ㎘֥ϥ٢ᔱট䙗ᠢս⁃ᦆ ҕᡄ䒀⡹ㅰ㡉ֹя㉂ጇ䍃䙗ጦ㚄⁃ ᦆ֥ᔵห䎙㦒 䌄Վ㙷㐀 䅓‸䘇䈁֞䉤䊇ᙖ㐩֥ੀ㦕㌀ґ 㐗㐄㌶ ն҆ᙑ 㕦㞈o䙗㈢p֥㌘a㎘a䔩㠸ᔱФ㚖㌶ਔぷห֥㌀ґ ⤴䂀ᦁ䌹v䘡䕆┢૫ ٢֥㐢䒇㐄䅳䍵֥䔩㠸 ‫ط‬u⤴䂀ᦁ䌹 IIv┢૫㈆҆Ґ䉤㑰䔣䕉䚒֥䔩㠸 ঐኑᤤ㎘㚈 ѩ⦄㚖ਔ゘Ӛ㚖ਘč㤇ս㍠‸֥㠘㈥䍃䔥䅢Ďb䒃۱ᦁ䌹㤴㐢 ㈸ো䚃ᥢ֥≦㍰฿ถ 䎁ૅ❱₇ⅲэӮ䜆❱a㢔≴₇ⅲэӮ䒇ℤ⁉䍴䔥≴ ֥ᡁ⅙㐀ख़ 䈨ᖙҕᡄ䒀֥䘨㠁ᤤّ㔅b㈸ૌ㎐㈀ਔҕ䑰䚓ѓč≶䙖㐈ॢℵ э֤հ䙤❷┘Ď䆇₃ૅ֥ᜨ⢗č㢕䄃֥㌀ґं㈢㐢ញ䅖㚖ਘĎ 㚒㈢䈁㐅֞ 䙗ₓ䎁㥹㌴䅢۱ℤ㤶 䒃㥖䔩㠸ᔱ㐢ℤ֥b䒃⌀㐢֬ᡵ䍃֥Ӯទ䔥ጡğ㈰થ ҄䊇ᦁ䌹䕙֥ҕᡄ䒀䈁㐅֞䄀ㄗ䔐䎁≉㦕֥䘕э 䈁㐅֞䎁㐕∲۲ֹ ㈸ো ⁑ᔘᕕ䙗㈢Ӂ㍹֥䉅㤩 ញ䅖ᦈᕕᦖ≴䎙Ӯ֥эᦈb㈸ૌ䅢㞁䘨ㆄ䚃㐀㦐֥ 㐗㠸 ㈕⥨゗ਔᡸ㈀䆇₃㡃㉈֥⁢጖bᦁ䌹㈘㐄㐢㈸োᤤ䙗㈢֥᠃䉷ֹ だ 㐕᠃๙ ૄ۱㞕ᦈᤤૄ۱䙣∅ᔱᜐ䌁ふㄲਛ֥㤶䔄䈁䈄b֬ᡵ䍃㈰㐕㈸
ᡘ Ч䍃 ᐠ㐢䒃۱ᦁ䌹䆄≨Ф㝹ট㠘㈥ਔ ‫ط‬㈸োс䀢㝩Վ᜗䐃b䒃Ⅱ䚒〰㐢 㡖㝖㈸ૌ๙ᡸّ㔅 Ֆ‫ط‬Ϝ㠒ᜧэ㝹ট֥㐷ᕉᤤ⁣‸b㠉ૌ҂㐢䎁⤴䂀ᘦ䕰 ┢ ‫ط‬㐢䎁⤴䂀ᦁ䌹┢ 㠉ૌ⎐䆇䎁䒃␢㠓㚘㌶Ⅹ㍡۷ૅᤔ֥㝹টb䒃۱㐕 ∲ી䉷Фᥒ㒑䂆ી 䅧㈢թ䎁䘕э֥⎐⡹㦙b 䎁฿≃ጇ㍹a㍹⁑ᤤញ䚒֥֬ᡵ䍃㐢䆈㑨℗ 㙷㐀䅓㐢฿≃ૅ㑨䁈䍉䍉ሥᤤ ∅㑁b2002⢓ 㕨䎁฿≃ૅ䍉Ⅹ৫ਔ䕙ᡵֻ䅢۱㐄䄔䆈㑨䁈॓b䄀ᡑӑㄗ ֥֬ᡵ䍃֒㈢҂‸⌃⢃䊇ጦ㚄㑁ज़ᘦ㐒 㕨㡖㝖ゑᖙ䁈㍹֥㤨㤶৯ᤤԷ䎙 ৯b䈗Վ 㕨≨ӈ҂䎁ज़㐳┢㌶ज़ ‫ط‬㈰䁈㍹֞ᦆ㐳⡐ᔸ㕨֥Է䚒ᡸӱbጔਔ 䎁฿≃ૅ䍉 ֬ᡵ䍃ᦘ䐑≨䎁֣ᡵᕀ㊆‫ᙹ؟غ‬䁈㡩b 㕨㐀ӈ㝔ْ䊇䕙ᡵᤤ⤶䕳䔥ℵ 䆇ьջ
䅢㥖㦁֥Է䈁ਲ᜹b㕨㤨ᜧ㥧 䁈㥐p֥‫ק‬䈄 㜃‫ي‬οԷ䚒ૂᅣㆉᙑ䁈֥॓ጦ㚄 յぅ‫┖ه‬b㕨㉂㝩㕦䉷 ֥䆈㑨℗ᔱ㐢㙷䅢۱ն℗๖֥䅢ᙑ䙖 ⎐䆇ᙑ㤰䔡㐅b֬ᡵ䍃㐢ㄗ㞑䆈㑨 ℗ 㙷㐀䅓㐢ጦ㚄Ω䔲ᡄ֥㐹᥷䒀bᕕ㕨ট㒘 ᦁ㐀ℵСүրग़ᤤ∅䁈 Է 䚒䅢䄰䕧䅅 ᔱ㐢㤰㑃ૄ䅢۱֒㢇㐀ख़֥ᡸӱb䒃㐢㝩ਔַ㥄㤇ս㍠‸ᡸ ␥֥↘҄Ĥ㠉ૌ㠡‫م‬䔕㐄b㠡ં㉦ᤥ ֬ᡵ䍃֥ᦆ㐳ℇ㐢хᙨᝐ 䊃㐢ញ䚒 㐳 䘷a䆁ᤤԷ䚒ញऎ⁉䎁䅢ょ ㍹⁑ᤤញ䚒ી䉷⠒㤅֥ㆉ᝵b 䎁䒃۱䑅ऌਔញ䚒㐳ն҆ᙑॢℵ֥u⤴䂀ᦁ䌹 IIv┢ ֬ᡵ䍃㚉♓ਔ㕨֥㝹 ট℅ᦇĒĒu⤴䂀ᦁ䌹 IIIvb o㦁䚒〰ⅲ⠗⠖㝩u≶䌹vp ㆖ᅣ䙗㔰䕲㔓ն ⠖䌹䚃ૅ֥҆ᙑ 䑅ֹ30ពㅵđЇও㒑ቷa⎐䆇ّ䉈฿ॢ֥〢ᚒ֥≶䙖 䆇₃ ᔘ㠸 㕩ⅲ㤴䅢۱❱≴ 䅢۱䒇䔐֥ℤᦁ䌹b⡘㠉ૌ⌀㤗䍑㊈⢓ᥢ ฿≃⅘

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䆇ն䙗㈢ᤤញ䅖ᦈ㍠‸֥ᡁ㡴䚒㝩ّ㔅䈈ี֥ն㦒䘡䕆䚒〰u⤴䂀ᦁ䌹 IIv₃䚒〰㡷∙b


ART FINDS A HOME

䆈㞕䔥℗


䆈㑨8 䉰‫م‬ᡵ䑷䁈℗ CHRISTINE CAYOL Էပ 2012⢓ㄉ䔴䊇‫ת‬በㆉ 䕙‫م‬ն䁈⊖䔴đ⠖ਙ䕙ᡵ㐸ᔱ֒ս䆈㑨ਵ䌑֥ㅅጕ䔥䅢b 䘖㞕 Caroline Boudehen. ㍖䉅 Jérôme Galland Ч䅔 ㄗづ䘉ֹ䆈㑨℗ JULIEN

DES MONSTIERS ⠖㝩 LES RÊVES DES AUTRES ֥䑂ফb䚈䅔 䆈㑨 8p֥㉰१ն๏䅢≱b


䕙㞕⠖㝩№ ֥ Christine Cayol ㍦ℷ∅㑁a䑷䁈℗ᤤ㈆ㆃ䔡⠖䚒 ℗bՖ㕰2002⢓㐸Ց䎙٠К≤ょ ⌀㝹䐑䕙ᕐᡸ㐄⅖o䆈㑨8p䒃 ۱৳∦ጦ㚄䌄㤇սa䕙ᡵ䌄‫م‬ᡵ֥㤱⡐ 䕅৯յ䎙䅢۱㙷㐀ડ䙲㉈ ӈ㍹⁑a㞕ᦈↈੀᤤ≦㍰ጦӵ֩‫گ‬ᤦទ⡹֥ሢ㕦 䆈㑨8䎁㉦Վ֥ ⁑৯㈵ㅴᤤ┠㤨А᜗䔥㢇䈵䍦‫㍹ط‬b䒃⠖Էပ㈸ᜐ䌁䆈㑨8֥䍇≱ 㐢 䒃㐢䅢۱Աょਆ۱ᡵ℗aਆ䕥㞕ᦈ֥ॢℵ 䎁䒃┢ 㐀ℵᘱᙷ๔ 䔶ੀ䘕 ᡵ∲䆄≨҂䎀ㅰ㡉b№ 㐢䎁䈗䍄℉‸㢇ট֞К≤ ‫≤ط‬ በ҂ᐠ䉤‫پ‬᜘┳㐆ᤤ㈸㞕ᡑᦖਖ਼⁔ਔ㕰֥㦃 䅓Ӯ㝩ਔ㕰ֻ֥ᖗ ᠧ㤤b㕰❱㤨ⅲ㈸㍹䕙֥ਸ਼䅢۱㈵ㅴiio䆈㑨p䌄䒃䚔㕰䉐䉷᠃ ⠔֥በ㐱㤗∦ᤦb䆈㑨 䅢۱ⅉ∥䉷৯aℷ㉖ѩЇ֥Ս⁀ 8 սі㠡 ㅹ 㤶䔄㍹㍹҂㡕֥䁔ᦖ 㙷㐀䅓㐢‫ת‬ᘦ㞕ᦈ䕙֥㦗䍦㑶䙙b䆈㑨8 䉳㉦䆈㑨∲֥ᚂᦈӗ 䅓㤴ប۳䄩ᙑ֥㠓㈧bᡸ㈀֥䕙‫م‬ն䁈 ㉦ ≂䆄Ӯ㝩‫م‬ᡵ䆈㑨Է䚒֥৫䙲ׄb䎁䒃┢ ‫م‬ᡵ㦁㍹ս䆈㑨℗ⅲӦ ≕䊇䕙ᡵ㞕ᦈ䕙 ≉㦕㝩づ㊈۱䍗֥䘉ֹↈੀԷ䚒đѩ䎁Վईပ䆈 㑨Ӯᡶ۱䑂b 䆈㑨8֥Ⅹ䘅㍡℅䅓ጡጡุ㤇ጇ䕙‫م‬ᤦ戙֥ᜨ⢗ 䖘๏֥䅢ш㐢䘓 㝩〰兘ү㤠‫ط‬㍡֥‑㌀㌈☧đ㤶䔄䕙ᡵ ਸ਼䅢ш㐢㍡䉷ごฤ⊓ϔ֥ ᥕ㌀㌈☧ սі‫م‬ᡵb۲๏㐳䆇Ϥ⢓┳㐆ᦁ䌹㝩䕙㦃҃अ 㐳⡷኉ 䉄䙂䙗㈢Ґᡑ ㄰㌶ᠵડਔㄗづ䘉ֹ䆈㑨℗֥䚒〰 䒃㐢䅢۱㈰㈸ ᡸ⡐⡨㝗֥ॢℵb䆈㑨8⡳䕙㆖≳ ₇ь䚓ઋ䎁䀷㥂֥К≤㐱䕙㦃 ≅ਣᠧភѰ㠸䍉 ᙐ㝦㈕㐢㉦Վ֥≳䤷㤦ᤤb䒃䅢ׄ䅓㐢Էပ㈸ №

֥Ⅎት 㕰㉂㝩Է䈁ᤤԷ䚒֩䆈㑨ᡸӱ⌀䈵ᜦ䎁በ㐱㦃䎇

҆㞆 㜃ᔘ ‫ط‬҂ᜦ 㤴҆ᙑ㤇ս䆈㑨 ⁣ ᠐䅢䄰㝔 ш䍄ᦈᖙ 䑂b䆈 㑨8䎁Է৫䔥ጆ㐀䁂䔴䊇㌳䅖ֹᕉ ₑ‫ى‬䑀䘕ᥢট֞≤በ֥┳㐆 ₃㞕ᦈᤢ㦃ᖙ䍃ֹ䐓۴b o֒ս䆈㑨䈵ᜦ䅅㉓㉰㍠‸ ‫ط‬҂㐢䌄 㜱∲᝵ध №

㉦Վㄲ‫ט‬b䆈㑨8㐢䅢۱䉐䉷䉧⊐┳㐆a‫پ‬᜘ָ

䍧֥䍉ઋ ⅲ㕩ᜧ 䎙㝩֒սԷ䈁֥ᚂᦈ㐳 䔹䎁䂒䀵㞕ᦈ ≦㍰ 㞕ᦈ㌈☧a䆈㑨䑂 ๏aᖗҪ֥䆈㑨℗ ញ䚒㐳֩㦁҃अ㝩ᡸ㈀֥ ն䁈㥐䌹յ䎙ਔ䑁㦁֥૫ષb䆈㑨8㤱⡐ ҂≇䕧㤇ਔૅֻぷљ㑴 čVilla MédicisĎii䉰‫م‬ᡵ䔑ᜅ䎁㌶㐕ℒ䊇અઔ᠑䕆㍡৫֥䆈 㑨⁢ֹii֥≦㍰ ۷㝩䚔ซ‸a䈙ু‸֩⁑ᔘิប䑂䄂ॢℵ ҂ 䅲䊓৯ֹ㤵ព䕩㜃ᡒ㈸㞕ↈੀb 2011⢓ 䆈㑨8㥠‸৳ᤦµ┕ᡵ℉䆈㑨በčCité des ArtsĎ₃‫م‬ᡵ┢ υ㐱䔑ᜅ㍡৫ਔ䆈㑨8‫م‬ᡵㅥ⢓䆈㑨℗ⅸ Ӯ㝩䙇䘁䆈㑨Է䚒֥〶 㕹 䅓㝩‫م‬ᡵㅥ⢓䆈㑨℗Ⅹ᠐䆈㑨㍹䁷๋֥ϰ ิប㐄䕓㌶֥㥠 䘁bLionel SabattéaClaire Tabouret ֩‫؟‬⠖‫م‬ᡵ㦁㉶䆈㑨℗䎁┳ ≨䆈㑨8֥䙉䄩ᥢ 䆄≨䎁ᡵ℉䆈ฆ䉐䉷䅢㡨䔥ֹb№ 㝖㤵Ч∷ 䐧֤‫م‬ᡵⅸᡥᡃ֥ Timothée Dufresne 㥓䙂㒘 o䒃㐢䅢۱⎐䆇ᜧ э䆈㑨℗㝹ট֥ⅸ㤱 ֤ⅸㄗᥢն҂㙷 䒃㞆ᕕᤅ䙙ᤤ㎔Սㅴ䉷ᔵ 䕢֥‫م‬ᡵ䆈㑨℗ ㉰䘆䆈㑨8ញ䚒㐳ᅤ≇≇ਆ฿ ⌀䆄≨ડ䍹ਲ᜹ 㕨䔥ㄗՖ㝹টᡸК≤ 䅓㝹䐑㕵㌶䕙ᡵਵ㚘b㉦≂ 㕨֥ૄ䅢҄ ᔱ䈨ਵ䙂㕨䙨㤵㈆㦁֥䆈㑨䔥 ਫ਼b2013⢓ょ Վ㞕ᦈↈੀⅸ㤱 䌄 CAFAč䕙䄖ૅ䍉Ďषゑਔᤦ䚒ᡁ㡴 ૫㤵䕙ᡵ㦁㍹ս䆈㑨℗ ㍡ ৫ਔ䆈㑨8䕙ᡵㅥ⢓䆈㑨℗ⅸb㉦㙷‫م‬ᡵⅸ 䉰∅㑁a䆈㑨℗a䆈〹 ℗䙸Ӯ֥䘓℗〹㝴‸䒈䁂ጇ䉦䀔֥䕙ᡵㅥ⢓䆈㑨℗ 䙇䘁㕨ૌট ֞䒃۱䕙‫֥㉓ↈم‬䍉ઋ ≉㦕䘉ֹↈੀ₃Է䚒b №

ᕕ䊇䚃ጆַղК≤㐀֥㦃≴᜹㑃ᦘ℆䈃䉳㦁b㕰䉤ᢂ䕙֥

夈㠇ট㦓㉖䒃䚔㙷㐀䆇ਆ䕥㔴ᕃ䍦㦕֥በ㐱b㕰䘓❢ᦁਔ䅢ᕉ㐀 ℵ 䉤䆇ᡄҳ䌄ᠧ㤤ն㤗≷๖֥К≤㕦ᔵ䉷֥በ㐱∙䙩 ૫ષ₃奒 ㈢҂㙷֥ᦖ≴ᙐ㝦 ᅤ֤䆇Ֆ㉖Ӧ≕ふ䕙b㕰ष㐑䁈䕙㞕ᥢ ᤹␥ ⌀ι㌶ਔК≤ ι㕩֥ᙐ㝦 䅓╘㌶㕩֥ਲ⁇bι㕩֥Ⅹ䘅 䅓╘㌶


䆈㑨 8p֥㜱ᡄᠢ㌀ᠢ㤠 ‣䘔 ㄰䘀㌶֥❢૫䑥⥑ 䚈䅔㌶ ㎗ ᙑⅉֆ֮‫ט‬b䍉ઋ⡷ጡጡӯ㤇 ᠢᑷԳ抇ᤤᚃ㐷֩‫ת‬ᘦ䈁㤶



㞆䊇o䆈㑨 8p䅢Ҫ֥ᥕ㌀㌈☧㤶䔄 ‫م‬ᡵb䚈䅔ğ䆈㑨℗ញ䚒㐳䅢䌀



ไ ใ จ 8pแ าชึฅไ จึกใ ทใ ไ ไ ใ ฉไ ใ จิทไ ึฅไ ใ เฅขโ ต ไ ไ ใ ไ ไ ขาชึฅโ ึ ีถเน


ਵभ 8 ⁒䄡᥂ᙵЇᕦᕦՄѴп Ѕׁ֛脧 ยᡥ: Ұ㉸ ϣᔨϥ֠ Ћጄ牄 ᠵґ᥂ ∲ա⠇़; Ⅎϣ ᔨϥ᥂ϩ㠉㠩ᠰщ ᝂա⠇़񂤥”

⡘㥖䙸᠐በ㐱ᔘઝ֥㐱⠆b№ 䉩 ふ䅧╘⡘㥖ӯ㤇┳㐆₃㈸োᡡ ⁰ֹ֥ᘦ 䔐䈗㉦Վ 㕰䁂䐄ਔ䒃ℵㄗ㍦㝩ն䁈֥⊖䍉ઋটյ䎙㕰 ֥o䆈㞕䔥℗p ≖⎐⡹ֹх૧⡘㥖㕰П᜹㠡╳֥oϢ৫ᘦčwhite cubesĎp㐒֥㤇սૅ㑨ᡆ⠢㐒b㕰і㐓 o䑂㐓䚒〰֥ॢℵ䈵ᜦ 㐢ऎ䉷㍹⠗ᤤ㐈⠗᜹֥bpᕕ㕰‫ط‬䂓 䆈㑨䎁Ч䕓㌶䌄㍹⁑㡕㡕㤗 ᡁ ➅҂⎐ᙑb䎁ॢ㠡䅢㠸֥∥Ϣॢℵ┢䑂㐓ᦆ䚒 䆄≨㐢҂ᤦ㐀 䅸֥ਔb䒃䕥䑂㐓⠢㐒㈒㍆㈸㞕㞓ᕃ 䅓㈒㍆ਲ⁇≦㍰b㈸ૌ䀙䅅 ᜹㑃֥㐢㍹⠗৯Ć㍹⠗ᤤ৵−䈗ՎӮ㝩䆈㑨8֥Է㍡≦㍰b۴ऌ䒃 㞆Էပ㈸֥㒘‫ م‬䆈㑨8㐢䅢۱o䕙‫م‬㞕ᦈ֥⁀ऊↈੀֹp ᤢ㦃Ω 䔲㝩o㍹⁑䆈㑨aԷ䈁≦㍰ᤤ㐄⅖Է䎙bp 䆈㑨8㙷㐀ӵքਔ∅䌢ጦӵ֥䐃㉁bЧ䙂䂒䀵ふㄗ㍦䕙‫م‬ն䁈֥ ∅䌢≦㍰ 䆈㑨8ิប૫㤵ព䕩ष٢֥䙗䉰ज़ӱa䂉ษ‸₃䄂ⅹ֩ ‫؟‬ো⁑ᔘb㌈☧ᦘ䄲ㅶ⡘㥖㡖㝖ᙑ㤰䁈㑨䂉⊆ᤤਲ᜹㤨‫֥م‬۲∲ ≦䈱 ईပն㎉ⅹ䚔b 䆈㑨8䅓ӵ䍹ਔo䘨Ч㔸䍃p֥㉤℗㔅㤨b₇ь‫م‬ᡵ䆈㑨℗䎁Վ䁗 ֥ѩ٤㑧䊇Ч㍦a㢆䈄֥o۴䍃p ㈕∳Վ䚒㝩㔅яaↈੀᤤ㐄⅖֥ ีᅣ Ֆ䕙䁈㡩㉦ᤥ䌄┳㐆₃㞕ᦈ≉㦕ҵ䈑ᕕᦉ ≉‫ط‬Ֆ㉖ℨ䌩䒃 㥖ีᅣ ѩㅑⅲ䒃㥖ᕕᦉ㉓㉰Է䚒b 䒃㐢䅢۱䉷ᡁ❱㤨֥ᠧ㐗 ๙ᡸ䆈㑨8䒃䄰䅢۱ᔵหֹ֥ᘦ㈰❱ 㤨䚃䕤эӮ㤇㐄bՖᢁิ㐀սょ 㠉⌀❱㤨䉐䉷䅢䚔ᘨ䙖 㕩㈵ㅴ ष٢ ㈰㍦ጡふ䕙֥䆈㑨℗ᤤ㦓㦓㌀㌀֥㈸ૌ䉷䙂џ䕄㉦ᡘ֥᜹ 㑃 䒃㐢䅢䚔㝩Է䚒Է㦁ᤤጦӵↈੀ‫ط‬թ䎁֥Ⅹ䘅 ㉦≂ № ֥ ❱㤨䆄≨Ӯ䒇b Christine Cayol № ք㉁䑷䁈∅㑁đ 㙷㐀䅓㐢‫م‬ᡵ䔡⠖ゐ䅖≦䈱⥷䁢⁣᠐㥹֣㦁㔅 Synthesis ֥ Էပ㈸ ѩጇϱਔ䆇㢇‫؟‬Ч䖙䚒ğ ु 㐢䅢䕥䆈㑨 㐕∲ըጇϱ㍠ 2003b 䕙䈐Ч2008⢓䉰㌳㡀䈰㑖ᡆጇϱb ❦⡙ৡ㌄䄀䕙֥䕙ᡵ㈸ 䌄㠧ᤅն䁈㠥堠愵∅㑁ᤦ䖙đ Tallandier ጇϱ㍠ 2012b 㝩㐁હ䕙ᡵ㈸䉐䉷㐀ℵ Tallandierጇϱ㍠ 2017b www.yishu-8.com


ᥕ㌀㌈☧㍡䉷ุ㤇‫م‬ᡵ㞕ᦈ֥⊓ϔb 䆈㑨 8֥Էပ㈸ CHRISTINE CAYOL 䚈䅔㌶ ₃Ч∷‫م‬ᡵㅥ⢓䆈㑨℗ⅸ֤䖘 TIMOTHÉE DUFRESNE 䚈䅔㢇



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BEAUTY IN FULL FLOWER ᦁ䄰⢓ᦃ 癈৯䑉٢

㕰⠖ਙ֒≂㈆ㆃ㐀㌷∲䚃㑃䘨⦘֥⠢ห䔥䅢 䅓⁔֤ SKP 䍴䕁֥ ㅥ杗Ӯ㝩ЧづoBEIJING IN BLOOM 䑉٢ SKPpห₀֥ᙣ૫㈸㠸b Ч़ᤖหљ䘓٠䒃㞆ᝄᝄ∦㑱≅䑔َફ֥㐀䘡䕱㦕ӱđ С㑃䖖⡐֥㦁䅢ս䕙ᡵӑ⠢iiᤵՒb ㍖䉅 Thomas Schenk. 䘖㞕François Castrillo & Nathalie Fraser

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㎐ㅖᤤ৯ 䙗㦄䊃ㄒ䁤֥۱㦙 䅢҄​҄જ㤵㐀㌷∲b䐑≨䙗

♂兖ↇ 䒃㐢٤ӈ䉷䉤֥ 䉷㐀ᥡ㠉Ϝ㕩֒䚒䅢䕥᥷‫ڑ‬㒇 ᦘ

䂓㉦ᡶી䉷҄㉰㐀䘡㈁ ⅲ‸Ֆ㐗䊄∅ញ䚒֥㕰 ㉦≂≉㉰

䉷૫㒇 㕩҂ᐠЌ㎓ទ⡹٤ӈᤔ ‫ط‬ㅑ䕓ֹ҂䐶b֒䄀≡ᚒ䕦

䕙ᡵ㦁㍹սӑ⠢㦕ਙ ㍴䕄䆄≨֞ղਵ㢙ֹ֥㞆b䎁Ч़⡷

㐀 㕩ᦘ⎐䆇䉤䚒䄀㒇b

䉰 Thomas Schenk 䑕≶⥉㍖֥ᙣ૫㐀㌷ᠧ㐗┢ ᤵՒ䎀Ց䔕

ጇ䊇ᕕ⤉۱㦙หׄᤤӮទ≨┳֥㥹㌴ 㠉ૌ䉷㦗䄲ㅶ⤉Ӯ㝩

⠒ਔ㕰֥⠢ห฿ᜐb

Чづ SKP 䍴䕁֥ᙣ૫㈸㠸b⡹䌄㠉ૌซซ ᕕ⤉㈸㍹Ӯሥ֡ਫ਼ 䉷㕦ゑᖙ֥⤧㦙ဠ䄰ગĤ

ᔵ℗䘓٠

ड़‫ק‬㐢㠉֥⡃ㅖb㕰ᕕ㠉䈁䈄䕧ն ۳䌁ਔ㠉᤹‫؟‬䔘ት ѩ㤵

⤉ᝄᝄ∦㑱o㐀䘡䍗p㔓ն㐀䘡䕱֥㦕ӱ ㅶ㠁䎁Վづℵ䉷⡕

㠉䑂㐓ਔ⤥৯ញ䚒㐢‫؟‬હ֥䕧䅅b㠉ⅲ۷⤥৯ֹញ䚒 ѩ㡖㝖

㥖䚃յᔘ⤉֥≦ґ㐀ख़Ĥ

ⅲট䉷۷‫؟‬۷ᤔ֥ញ䚒Ć

ૄ䅢۱㐀ख़ᔱ᤹ဣ 㠉㤰㑃ૄ䅢ሢ䀔 㠉֥≨ℒព㔇ᝄᝄᝡ

SKP 䍴䕁㐢䅢Ч䉰 ┕䘓䅖㜂ᕔ䌄К≤ SKP ᤦ䚒㜃ጇ֥䍴

㕀㠉 䎁䒃Ց㐀䘡䕱┢ 㠉䙨䀔֥㑶ਈ⥐ֻ㠨b㠉䒇֥᜹᤹֞

䕁 㙷㐀䅓㐢䅢ሢ䕙㡆㞕ᦈ⁀ऊ֥≦ґ䔥੪b䚒㝩⡐ㄗ䕙ᡵ䚃

↑ό 䅓᤹㦗䍦b

䔡⠖֥⠢ห䔥䅢 ⤉䌄䕩‫؟‬ᡵ℉㐀㌷㈃㝙〰⥑≉㦕ᡸᤦ䚒 䒃

㠉ૌਔ∧֞㐀䘡䕱֥ញ䚒㤗֒➅₂‫َط‬ફ ⤉㈕㉇䀙䅅䎁᝔

䄰֥ញ䚒≨┳㐢҂㐢ᕕ⤉aᕕ⤉֥۱㈸ᖙ䑂䉷㕦䉅㤩Ĥㅶ䌄

ㄲᕃ֥ញ䚒㢇Ќት䚃№䘥㖃b䎁䍦ᔘⅢ㍦a䈦㐂ᤤૅ㉖֩ᘦ

ᔶ䒀ᙑ㤰䅢㢇⤉֥᜹㑃b

૫ ⤉䉷㐁હ㉈ӈℲት֥㍹⁑㡩ᡈ⡵Ĥ

㠉㉂㝩䎁ᢂ㜱a䉩ふ㐢䎁㡆ᘦញ䚒 ҂ᐠյषਔ㠉֥㐴䅑 ‫ط‬

㠉≖ਈ䎔㒒 ≖ਈЌት䔐ӈ֥䈦㐂㐀ℵ 䈗㝩ញ䚒֥ᡁ㡴 Ϣ฿䉷

ㅑᜧэਔ㠉ुր㐗㠸֥ᘦ㐒b㈢‫ ط‬㕩ૌ䅓ิ㦖㠉 㠉֥䂀䕳

㐀҂⡹᤹ᤔ֥ӹ‫ת‬㡆 㝂Ҕᕕ㠉ট㒘᤹䕧䅅 ҂㐢ӹ‫ ؟‬۷㐢ӹ

Ω䔲ᡄᤤጦ㚄֥䕧䅅㦙 䒃㥖Ω䔲ᡄᤤጦ㚄थ‫ק‬ਔ㠉䎁䒃۱

ᤔ ᤹㤰㑃֥ӹᤔ ֒㈢㠉䅓‸䎁ૄ۱በ㐱㈀䑧䕙ᡵҔ๏ӹᘢ

㐕∲㠱㕹㌶֥㍦ᙘb

ጔਔ䎁㐕∲۲ֹ੪㦕֥㐀ℵ䔥㜱 ⤉䖘䅅䎁⡕┢㍹⁑ ⡹۵㠉ૌ

⤉䐑≨㈀ᡸК≤ SKP ગĤ⤉䚃㡱ᦕ֥〰⥑䉷⡕㥖⡵Ĥ

㦓㉖⤉ ㉈ӈ 䅢฿֥㦕ӱν⥐ગ ⤉㡱ᦕ㈀⡕┢ 㡱ᦕ䚑㐁હ

㠉≨ӈ֞К≤⥉㍖ ն 〙 䈗Վ䅓 ≨ӈ㈀ К≤ SKP 㠉≨ӈ

⤙䍑ᤤ䕙ᡵb㠉᤹㡱ᦕᤤ㠉֥⦖䉸℗㈸䅢ょ㊑҄ ⥁‫غ‬䅓‸䅢

㈀ SKP ֥Céline ≦〰ᒃ 䒃㐢㠉䚃䕢ㅴ֥㐀䘡〰⥑䔥䅢 К

۱㈸֞ጡ䙨䙨 ᤹٢㔘b㠉҂⡹䎁䅢۱ֹᘦշ㖂⊐ 㡱ᦕᤤ㠉

≤ SKP 䉷䀤‫؟‬ᡵ℉〰⥑ᦘ䉷ᡵ⡷㍡℅㎉֥〰⥑b㠉㡱ᦕᡓ҂

֥⦖䉸ᤤ℗㈸䅢ょጇ㈀b

㙷֥ᒃ ҂㙷㐀ℵ㈀⎐䆇ว֞䈁㤨҂֥֞‫ת‬㡆 б㉦ Prada ֥

֒⤉Фᖙडѩष㐑⠢ห㍹䁷㐀 ֒㢇ֻ֥䅢ّ䈵㐢㐁હĤᕕ䒃

㥙 Cé l i ne ֥ն䅩 B u rb e rr y ֥㔈∸ Cha ne l ֥㐷 տ䆇

ᙘញ䚒䉷ᡸ䐈䄰֥づ䀤Ĥ䒇䔐㉰㦕ᥢ 㐄℉֥ㅴঃ㐢҂㐢‫ژ‬

₃ Chloé ֥㈠䙖 㠉٤ӈ㥹㌴ Clare Waight Keller 㕰҂ᐠ䉦䁸

ᤦ䚃ጆ֥づր⡵Ĥ

ૅৡ 䅓኉ડ䔡㦙 㕰ㄗ҂⊐ᅤᝄᝄ℘㉰Givenchy ֥㦕ਙ 㠉

᤹㦐‫ ٹ‬䒃㐢❱㤨Ӯ䒇Ć㠉٤ӈ㈵ι㠉֥ញ䚒Ć

䆄≨ぇ҂₃ր㈀㐵ጤ䁂᠑ Givenchy ㈆㦁֥2018 Խ㢉㡴ਙਔ

COACH

LANVIN

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

CALVIN KLEIN


FENDI

DOLCE & GABBANA

PRADA

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷Ġḡ .0/*$" '&6%*

CHANEL

BALMAIN

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

GIVENCHY

MISSONI


wild rose 䅑❆ᡔ

ᙖᥕ㌀‫ט‬aᦁ‫أ‬䈰ᦁllЧづ֥ᙣ૫㐀㌷ᠧ㐗䉰䕙ᡵ㦁㍹սӑ⠢ᤵՒ䄂䈔đ 㝩㠉ૌӯ㤈≂⢓ㆀᔕ֥oᦁ䄰䑉٢p㐀䘡Ӗੀb ㍖䉅 Thomas Schenk. 䎙㦒 Franck Benhamou 㝓㌉Տ䀖৵䅩㈠ FENDIđ䌉㐩㔈ጂਂ㥙 PRADA.



䒇㔈䈰ᦁ৵䅩㈠aᐤ৯ ॰ 㜩 a䒇 㔈 䈰 ᦁ ᝔ ۵ 㥙 BALENCIAGA 䚈䅔 ㈸ 䎙】Ҥն䅩a䒇㔈㒈愑 ৵䅩㈠ MIU MIU.




⤶۴㌉Տ䀖৵䅩 ㈠ 㔈㉗‑㙸 ≲㐩₃ ∩ 䔵 DIOR 䌉㐩㔈ጂਂ 㥙 PRADA 䚈䅔 】Ҥ 䒇】㜱ส ALEX ANDER MCQUEEN.



⤶۴㌉䈰ᦁ৵䅩㈠ CHLOÉđ 䌉㐩㔈ጂਂ㥙 PRADA.


ਊ〙Տ 䀖㔈㉗ ৵ 䅩 ㈠ SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO 䚈䅔 】Ҥ

㎗䙙䀖ৄ㔈ᔦ⦔a‑㙸 㒑䙹―ᡃaศՌ䒅䖄‫ع‬ ᦖ DOLCE & GABBANA.



䒇㔈䄣ર〧−৵䅩㈠ ⡷ձ䒇㔈⁉١㌡ LOUIS V U I T T O N 䌉 㐩 㔈 ጂ ਂ 㥙 P R A D A 䚈 䅔 ਊ 〙Տ䀖䒇㔈৵䅩㈠ CHRISTOPHER KANE.



ৄ㔈㒑䙹㔈㉗৵䅩㈠ GUCCI . 䚈䅔 㔈ጂ䈰ᦁᔦ⦔㐒৵䅩 ㈠ VALENTINO. ㍖䉅䘁┠ LOUISE REINKE 䎙㦒 䘁┠ LOYC FALQUE ᖙ㦒 OLIVIER LEBRUN @ CALL MY AGENT ґ 䘢 LLOYD SIMMONDS @ AGENCE C A R O L E ґ 䘢 䘁 ┠ S A M U E L RUFFIN - HENDRIX ⠢ห HE CONG @ I M G M O D E L S ҃≱ ㍡℅ PIERRE GLANDDIER ! GLOW PARIS.



䅗ઋㆀ㍧

㍖䉅 Gilles Bensimon. 䎙㦒 Caroline Christiansson

AUTUMN LEAVES


➀㌀⥔क़ն䅩a⡷ձ䒇㔈㌡a㥈䄣】ဢջ〶ָ㥙 CÉLINE.


ᥱ┗રն䅩 LOUIS

VUITTON.

䉹䅔 䒇】⁣Ӛℕक़aө㌡a䒇】ሥ॰ TOD'Sđᥠָ䍦ᔘ㥙 HOGAN.




Њ㌉ᐤ৯৵䅩㈠ VERSACE. 䚈䅔 】ҤՏ䀖㉲⡵ն䅩a䒇㔈န㈠a〧−䒇】ሥ䁆a㤱╗ PRADA.



ᤷ㌀䔐䘡 PORTS 1961. 䚈䅔 䄣㉗ն䅩a䄣ર৵䅩㈠ AGNONAđ䒇】ᕇ䁆 CHURCH'S.



】Ҥ‫ي‬ਵ䄣રն䅩a㌶䅩a䒇㔈န㈠ COACHđّરひ】ሥ䁆 LONGCHAMP. 䚈䅔 䄣㉗ᔦ⦔₃⡷ձ᝔ਵ㌡aひ】ร䄣રሥ॰ BOTTEGA

VENETA ひ】⠩व㦀㥙 LONGCHAMP.


䄣㉗ঘ╗৵શℕक़ LORO

PIANA .

䉹䅔 䄣㉗䄣રն䅩a⡷ձ愑ጂМ㦃㜱สa⡷ձৄ㔈㌡a䒇】᝔۵㥙 GIVENCHY.



ᥕᤷᝲ㞗䄣ર㜱ส MONCLER. 䉹䅔 䄣】ひ】⥔क़ն䅩 YVES SALOMON 䄣㉗န㈠ SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ≁㑧᜹】㥙 CHURCH'S. ㍖䉅䘁┠ CHRISTOPHE SCHUMACHER FRED BARLET. 䎙㦒䘁┠ RUFUS ᖙ㦒 ALESSANDRO REBECCHI @ ARTLIST PARIS. ґ䘢 LLOYD SIMMONDS @ AGENCE CAROLE. ґ䘢䘁┠ SAMUEL RUFFIN - HENDRIX. ⠢ห SUSANNE KNIPPER @ ELITE PARIS. 䉅㤴ጡ┠ JEREMY ZAESSINGER.

KELLMAN.




сЇќСЅЁ , " / + * *4 ) * СјЎсдњ 4 6 ; : ,* .

THE WINNERS ARE...

РЂћРЁИСњђсљбll








{ S K P } ૅৡ㎅ᑷ

ALL ABOUT BEAUTY… ૅৡ䕄㌶

≨ ᡸ 㑶۱䍗ҩ㐵‫ט‬Ұaૅ㉖䘓䅖 ㈸㐔䆇 ₃ S K P ᠨग़ ֥ㅖ㍦ ุ 䄔ᤤ〹䁂 S K P 䍴 䕁᤹ ㉒㦗䎁 Վ㤵۲ 㞆 ∑ 㥇 ֻ䅢 ∷ S K P ૅ ৡ ㎅ ᑷ ֥ ⁔ ⅸ 䒀 ⠖ ֆ b⡕ 䅢 ␧ 㤠 ᙐ 䚃 ❷ ㈸Ĥ⡕ 䅢䔸 Հ ᝕ 䉐 䉷 Ў ડ ֥ ㌀ ‫ ט‬䊃 ⡹ ⦁ ᤦ ጤ ձ Ĥ⡕ 䅢 ␧ ᙖ ָ ⡹ յ 䎙 㠡 㢃 䘢 ָ Ĥ⡕ 㥖 䊃 㐢 䚃 ऎ 䘶 㥔 ֥ ≦ ᦃ 䅡 Ĥ䆇 ㌶ 䒃 㥖 㠁 ี ֥ ճ σ ⅲ 䅢 䅢㝩 ⤉∑㥇b๙ᡸ≳ 㠸㍖䉅ն㎉ Kanji Ishii ֥≶㚈䆇 ₃ 䘓䅖㜂ᕔ֥Է䈁 ㅂ㔅 䅢 ⅡⅡૅ 䘢 Ӂ〰 ⅲ䆇☕㈸ 䈁 㤨 ҂ ֞ ֥ 䆈 㑨 ᘦ 㐒 ӯ 㤇 䎁 䕩 ㈸ 䄀 ㄗ b⤉ 〹 䁂 ֥ Ӂ 〰⁕䀤䆄≨ ֨ ㌶⁔ ⅸ⠖ֆ ‫ط‬䒃 㥖⁔ ⅸ Ӂ〰⁕䀤₇ ⅲ ֤ ֞⤉֥ㅥ 杗b䚃 䕧 䅅֥㐢 㐶 ₂ ѩ䔘 ት ⡘ 㥖 ⤉

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷

䕢 ㅴ ֥ ૅ 䘢 Ӂ〰 㝩㢇䅢 ∷ ֥ ૅ ৡ ㎅ ᑷ 䚑 ᤔ 䘳 С

152



{ S K P } ૅৡ㎅ᑷ

MEET THE JURY 䌕⅘〹㝴㜂

㐸∷ SKP ૅৡ㎅ᑷ֥䚃䕤〹䁂ն‸䊇9䍗25㉈ई㦕b ૅ㉖䘓℗ᤤ䅖∲㈃㝙䒒ᕕ≉㉰थ䁂֥㈆㦁㌶㐱₃≨ᑷ㈵㥃 Ӂ〰 ≉㦕ↈੀ〹‫ק‬ᤤ䒈䁂b 䘖㞕 Nathalie Desanti

К≤ SKP 䊇㉈ㄗ㜃ጇֻ䅢∷ૅৡ㎅ᑷ⁑ᔘ 㡑䈨ਔ䀤‫؟‬ᠨग़a㤖㌶

㐢ձ⦁ふ㕨१ᥕ 䈹䎙‫پ‬䉄䊃҂ᡸᕃ⤡ᥠ֥ґ㌀Հ䘢 Հ䘢Ӂ〰

ᙖ㔈ᤤᔶ䒀b㕰ૌㅖ㍦㐵䉤〹бጇਔ䅢㡴ਙ≦䁂ૅ䘢Ӂ〰b㠉ૌ

䕙 㕰ਸ਼䅢۱㤨䌄ᔶ䒀ᙑ㤰֥㦃㚈ᤔ䐅㐢 Giorgio Armani ֥έઑ

หֹⅲ䒃㥖≦䁂Ӂ〰ӯ㤇۳ૅ㉖᥷┠〰ਵ䌑֥䂉ᖙ䘓℗ᤤₕ㑨ᠨ

⢄䒐䕅㔈㉗䁹ᡑՀ䊁b o㠉त֤᤹㉖䆐㌶㐷 䅓᤹㉖䆐न䍣㌶㌀b

㠁 Gérard Redziniak 䉰㕨㝩ᔶ䒀≉㦕䘓䅖∧㡅b䒃㞆ᙑ䙖㍹㠸䁈

㕩ґᕃЎᤤ 䂔㌀㢕⠒ ‫ط‬ㅑ䘢㥔ት⊐䊃҂‸ջ۳Հ҆⁨‫ڑ‬㖂‫؟‬᜗

Ѱ㐔ѩ҂अ㤕䊇㐵䄔∦ᡶ ۷ু䊇䌄㕨㈸ᙑ㤰㕨ᕕૅ㉖Ӂ〰֥㈵

ք Givenchy֥Հ᝕㡴ਙ䐅䈗ऎС䉦䁸㌀‫ט‬ᤤሥ㥔ት⊐֩䉦ׄđ‫ط‬

ㅴ 䅓∳Վ㡖㝖䌄ն䕩ᙑ㤰䔐㈘֥ૅ䘢㖃ᕃbSKP ૅৡ㎅ᑷ≦䁂⠖

⁔֤㕰֥ᘥ㦃bMarie ㈵ι۲䕥㌀ґ ᐠᦉี䅢䘕֞ᙖָ 㕰䅓㙷䄰

ֆ䕙֥‫␧؟‬Ӂ〰䅓㈰䒃㞆॓䁈㈸㐔Ӂ㍹᠃⠔b২㉦ᕕ䊇 Origins ‫گ‬

㦐䕅⤡ᥠ oGiorgio Armani ֥έઑ⢄ն㎉䎙㦒ᙖָ㉨⠖ᜈふ㐄 㐢

⁑Ҥ㒑㉸䀉᥷≦ᦃ㔳 㕨䒃䄰〹ં֡ o 㕩䍧ᢑট䙗㌈⠳֥‫⁑گ‬Ҥ

ն㎉₉Ӂ〰b㕩҂≇䕓ֹ㉠ᤤ 䂒䑂㦙ㄲ ⡹䁥㔴ᜠ䙂】‫ڑ‬іҪ ‫ط‬

≦եb䒃䕥䔩㠸⡹᠒㒖䈵۲䕥⁸ふ䂈भ֥㍹ሥ่Ⅱ ₇ьᜲ४‫؟‬

ㅑ〸㍦֥㍡℅䅓᤹䉷䕓᜹b㌶㜹ᙖָᥢ֥⁨‫ڑ‬䅧㈢Ќት⁑৯ ҂㤅

㐀 䔸䅅㡑㆖֞㒑ᙑ₇⎐䁥 㔴‫⁑گ‬bOrigins ⅲՎ䕥䔩㠸 ֥ห㦙

ᥠ䕧 ҂ં㐢㉈ӈ㍹⁑ ᦘ㐢䎁㍥䑂㕹⁕㐢ᒀ䉅⥉㍖֩䘓䅖ሢᤦ 䒃

䍦 䉤䎁Ќ ㎓≦ ᦃ 䅡 ┢ 䒃 㐢 ‫؟‬હဣ ֥

␧ᙖָ ㉨ᔱ⡹ ડ䙲㠉֥䅅ㆄ 㐢յ䎙

㤨 ‫ م‬pЌ ㎓ Ӂ 〰 ᕕ 䊇 ۲ 䕥 ো 㦒 ֥ ⁨

㜹ૅ䘢㉖֥䚃№ဒ੩b㠉ㄲ ਛ 㜃⅓

‫ ڑ‬㑧䊇㉈ӈ֥⁢Ч䀙ㆄb‫〰㉖ૅ℗؟‬

Antigone Schilling 䅢ซょ㤠ᙐ 䅓ੀ

⥑䅓 䕅 ৯䊇䘶㥔 ॆ ⒐Ӂ〰 ֥䂉ᖙbᕕ

♓ጇ㤗㙷֥㈵ㅴb㝇ਲօ धᕕ㌠ㅴa

䊇 Gérard ‫ط‬䂓 刉㆖ᢂ䄤䕙֥≦ᦃӮ

䒅ᡨ૫㌉a 㦖ll㕰҂ᐠ ት䉷ਸ਼ো

ᙑ䉤䆇յ䎙ॆ ⒐Ӂ〰۷ 㐢㔈ᤒ҂☕㈸

֥ 䌈⁀ ᦘ 䉐 䉷ᦃৡ ֥ 㞕г b䒃㞆℆

䈁㜱b㕨 і㐓 o ᢂ䄤֥Ӯᙑ㐢䚃㉖䆐

䒀㈵ι㞕ᦈ䆈㑨a䘡㐩㍡℅ᤤ㐀㌷֩

㈰⁨‫ڑ‬㡑㐶֥bLa Prairie 䍦䉤畸䊖䙖

‫؟‬۱ਵ䌑 㕰䆇㤠 ᙐ䚒㝩䖘 ี 㕦䘖 㥧

ิ╙ጇ】‫ڑ‬䀙䅅֥䙉䄩≦ᦃ La Mer 䐅

֥ 㞕 䑑 䐑 ≨ ‫؟‬Ց ⁔ ֤ ૂ ุ 䅖 ∲ ϯ ᖙ

刉㆖ᢂ䄤䕙֥⁑㦙ᙑ䙖 䒃㥖mᢂ䄤n

֥ Prix Jasmin 㞕䁈ⅸbᕕ䊇Ֆ SKP ᠨग़

ૅ㉖Ӂ〰 ㈘㐄 䉐䉷٤ُ 䘶䍒 ֥㥔 ᡶ

ૌ〹䁂∦ᡶ䕙㜔䉆‫ط‬ጇ֥‫␧؟‬ᔵห㤠

㕨䔵ጇП㑃㥄ᙆ䒀ιպ֥ Sisley 䕩‫؟‬

ᙐ 㕰і㐓 o 㠉ᕕmְύ㥈∨n䒃␧㤠

Ӂ〰䕙֥⦁ᘦ㈘㐄㤗֒ጇ㌀ 䅓㤗֒䎅

ᙐ㎗ᙑ㑙㡗b㕩֥㤠ゕ㍧ख़ㅑ⤡ਛ ⁉ ᤦਔնઔ㐔ᝰᤤᝲঘ㔂ਆ䕥❆ᡔ֥㤠㞁 ᥢ㞁䕙֥ᙷ㐷᜵aᙖᥕᥩ ↄ䐅ิׄጇ䅢㔈 典ᡶnゕ㡕 㝩ふ〶เ☕㈸҂⎐䙗 ֥䊂⁖癈৯

ጇ֥oゕᑹᙖָp֩㦁Ӂ〰䕙 ु֞ґ䘢∲֥ૅᤔ䍇≱b㕨㉂㝩ゕᑹ

䘓℗〹 㝴 ૌ ᙒ ᙒӦ ≕ 䎁⠒㦆 ૅ䘢 Ӂ〰 ֥㐕∲䕙 ᙑ㤰۱㈸ ᡄ ׄ

ᙖָऎ䉷≦ㅂ䎙㦒a䘓০ᖙ⠒ᤤ㥢ջᘦь֩‫؟‬䕥䉦㐡 䚃㦁᥷‫⦁ڑ‬ᘦ

₃᜹㑃b≨ᡸ䘓䅖〹㍲aⁱਛษં₃㚇〤 䚃䕤㈘‫ק‬ጇ⁔ⅸӁ〰

֥เ℘ 㐡с⡹Ӯ㝩ґ䘢∲֥⠒㦆Ӂ〰đ২㉦ Yves Saint Laurent ㉈

㤇䎁 SKP 䍴䕁㝩ᔶ䒀ૌ∑ष䒃14Ⅱ⁔ⅸӁ〰֥㍰➁૫㌉

ㄗ䅢૫㐕ь⁔֤۲∲ᤔ〹֥⠒ґㅦᑹᙖָ䅡b и䅖䊇 Avant-Scène 䘓䅖ґ䘢䁈䍉֥ Marie Duhart 㐢䔡⠖≨ℒ ព㔇 By Calliste ゃ㢇֥䆈㑨ґ䘢㎉b㕰䅓Ф⠖ֆ䕙֥‫␧؟‬ґ䘢Ӂ 〰㍧㍧㡑䈨bᕕ䊇 Dior 㦁㜃ጇְ֥ύ癈⁖Հ᝕ 㕰㒘 oⅉֆ㒘 㠉 ٤ӈ㡱ᦕb㠉䎁䘓䅖ґ䘢ᡸӱ䕙䉤㕩յ䎙䙗㈢≓ᥤઊ㌀֥Հ䘢 ⁕

154

㚓〙䚈ょğSKP 䍴䕁䙥≨┠ Tiziana Humler, ℆䒀Antigone Schilling, ૅ㉖䂉ᖙ䘓℗ Gérard Redziniak, ૅ㉖щ₀ Nathalie Desanti, SKP 㦓㤶ᡒᝡ䙥ℱ Fabien Mouillard, Է䈁䙥ℱ Christian Ravera, 㐀䘡䙥ℱ Franck Benhamou.

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷

㌴ Guerlain 䌘๓ধᦁ䘶⡹ ⁑૫㒇ふ∦ᤦ≁ধ≦ե֥䙉䄩⦁ᘦ Gérard Redziniak 䅓䎁䆇ᙖָ䅡㝩⁢጖a∦ᤦᦈ䘢➇ᜨ⢗ Է㦁㜃








GIORGIO ARMANI ѥ㌙֠р०を৸

᠃㥸᜖ѣ Ћӌ‫ח‬Ӹе έઑ⢄ૅ䘢ㄘ㦃䂉ᖙゕᑹ䘓㑧ᔵԷ⦁ᘦđ䆇≦ℳ֥॓ₕđ⁀₂ָ䘢≦㕉đ䆇䘶 䍒֥䑵戄৯䌄ध№֥์‫ڑ‬ᕃđᜐ䌁⁨‫ڑ‬㉦㡷㔈ጂᕑϮ֥ᡑҐđ㙷㐀ሥղ 㥈㐀 ሥ㥔䙉䄩đૅ‫ڑ‬۷᥷‫ڑ‬b ふ㜱ᡄ㉓ᤦέઑ⢄᝔‫ק‬㐷Ї㍡℅ਲ᜹đ䆇≨ᑷᥕᤷ⦁㌀đ⡷䕆ᔵԷ‫ק‬䕉₉ᙖ ぐđ㐈⤧㦙䎁ई㐷㚇䙲䔥ℵ䉦䁸≖㤇đӮ㝩㐀癢⤧㦙҂⎐⁕㈒֥㐀㌷ֆ〰b 㦁㐀ս⤧㦙ऋध㜠㥠đᕕ᝔㥔ጇ䕩֥䘢㥔a㠡䌄⚆б֥㑓㐥ᕃ䌄䕓᜹㍐ᦃ֥Ї 䘡đᔱ㤨䅢ᤧ≖㤰b㈆㦁έઑ⢄ㅦᑹ≦ᦃᙖָ䅡֥㌶㐱đⅲゕᑹӖੀ≉䅢҄㜃≉đ ㈰ૄ䅢㞆⤧㦙₇㐈䔸䉤䔵ℳㅦׄ૫҆đ䅓⡹⁔֤䅢㉦ґ䘢ն㎉Ϯָ֥䘢䘢㥔b

᜖ज़ဠ㌙ इ㤰ᑸԹ έઑ⢄ᕕ䕓ֹ֥⁸䕅䘨ㆄđ䂒㍥䕄䒃␧‫؟‬ទ⡹֥䄀䉅 ᝕bふᘩ㒑⡈㔂⦁ᘦđձ⦁㒈䕧䕓ֹ䘕 ॓ₕ 㒇䘥䕄 䅡㖃a䅡㖃䘕䕄ᙖ⠨䘥ᠩ㖃đ㕇₇☕䄀杖᝕ጠ‫ڑ‬㒕ℵ 䘕ᦈ㝩䅡ุđ֒䉴ᙘ․ᖙᥢđ䘕䕄ᙖ⠨䘥ᠩ㖃đᔵห㌀ 䐆䌄㌢ਊ䒅䖄㝡৬☡䊇⁨‫ڑ‬đ䎙⌀ት⊐䙗㈢֥䘢㥔b

ㄠ䉐ᑹ䘦 ℸঋա₁ ㅦ Ӯ刕ґ㔷杖䅡đ䅖∲㐸Ց㐈䉤䘓০ᝰ㦁⦁ᘦđ㒈 䕧䘕 䕓ֹ☕䅡㖃䄀䉅ጠ‫ڑ‬㒕ℵ䁥㔴䘕э㝩ᙖ⠨䘥 ᠩ㖃đⅉֆ␥㔴㌶䘢đት䘢ղ 㥈㐀䔥⊐đ䎙⌀҂㈥ 䘢a҂⁦㤖֥䄀҆䘢᜹đӞָյぅ䄀䘢յ䎙֥ᠩ䉷ᡕ 䐅b䅢⠧đ刕ґ䑉٢đ䆙⎐ҪҪ‫℘ן‬đ㕇㦃᠅ীਲᔘ ≦䕅֥䄀㤖đյ䎙䙗㈢๙㚉֥ઊ䘢đ䆙⁕≥䄃ᦃৡ֥ 䂅䁓䄀䘢b㕇䙂ᡑ㤖֥҂㙷đ㌀ґ愢ৡэ b ␧恉 ૅ‫ק‬䕉ᦃᚑ֥㌀ґđӮ⌀ㅨ㐕㒈杖b

‫ق‬ա䥗₁嘹ᑹธ䤆ฎ䝸䁥⁹䦑 ㌀䐆⤡䌓đㅦ䉄㠡䕧đյ䎙 ӑ䍒㐀㌷֥㜹ૅት⊐䁹 ᡑՀ䘢b₇ख़㌶䘢đ㊑ᖙ☕㈸⡨䆇㝗ᦒ֥⁸䕅癈৯b 䎁㉓刉ት䘢䈗䙖֥䘁৯㢇đ䐉ㄲ㤅㌀ᕃđղ֞㕥㌀ទ 㥔đ䘢㥔ት⊐ሥղ 㥈㐀b 䉰䚈‫ط‬䉹ğㅦᑹ≦ᦃᙖָ䅡a䒐䕅䎙㦒ૅ杖᝕a ㅦӮ刕ґ㔷杖䅡aት㌀⤒ґ䁹ᡑ㈥Հ䅡b


{ S K P } ૅৡ㎅ᑷ

THE BEST OF BEAUTY ૅ䘢䒐䁂

ֻ䅢∷К≤ SKP ૅৡ㎅ᑷ֥ጆ䁂⠖ֆ䉰37۱〰⥑a䅢᠃63Ⅱ Ӂ〰㕦䙸Ӯ 䎁┳≨㑶۱㦆づ֥㤖㌶㚇〤ᤤ㉈ㄗईပ֥䘓℗ 〹㝴‸〹䁂䔥ᥢ ۲〰ো֥ⅸ㤱֤䖘䕤䊇₇ⅲ∑㥇 14۱ᡥᡃ֤䖘֥Мᥢ 䅓㕀㒘䙂14۱ᔘ㈸֥ૅৡᠧ㐗 ㍖䉅 Kanji Ishii. ૅ㉖щ₀ Nathalie Desanti. 㚄ጀ Alexandra Bednarek

ૅϢ≦ᦃ

SISLEY 䔩㠸 Ϣ㠡戄≦ᦃ䅡 䍧ᢑն‑≦եa㝱㍹㔳 C ֩⁑㦙Ӯᙑ֥ Ϣ

≢刉‫گ‬ᤦ㠸 ⡹᠒䉷㥔ᐢᦈϪׄ 䕧㤇⁨‫ڑ‬ᡑ䐆

162



䄀㒇

LA MER ᢂড䔥❸⤡㕢䀉᥷䄀҆≦ᦃ㒇 Վ␧≦ᦃ㒇䍧ᢑᔵ℗⦁ᘦ֥ᢂ䄤⁑㦙≦刉

ᢑ䉷ห㑉⦁ᘦ֥㡷䕅䕓ֹ۷㐥ᤦ䄀䕱→㉠֥⁨‫ڑ‬

૫㒇

LA MER ᢂড䔥❸≦ᦃ૫㒇 ‫پ‬䉄֥䕓ֹ䆇₃䌄㙷㡴ਙ䄀㒇䕙᜘ᢑ֥ᢂ䄤⁑㦙≦刉

ጔਔ㝩⁨‫ิڑ‬ប䅢Ҫ䙉䄩Ќ᥷⠣ ᦘ☕㕩≅㐄a㉠⡸a䉷ᡑ䐆


Հ᝕

GIVENCHY

᝔‫ק‬㤠挣฿‫㉗ث‬Հ᝕ ∦ᤦᤷ㌀】ᝰ䌄䈣䕓≁㑧֥ᡅ㍦đ㈰䒃␧Հ᝕㝅㉦䅢Ⅱ㕇㍦䖄Џb㕩䉐䉷㉠ᤤ䕓ֹᤤት⊐䘢㥔đ ㉠ᦅㅦ䉄đᜉᜰ㥔ᡶध№㈕Ќት֮‫ט‬đЎᤤ֥䁹ᡑ㌀䐆ሥ㥔ት⊐đ㝩㒈Հյ䎙㜹ૅ֥Հ䘢b


૫㒇

GUERLAIN 䌘๓ধᦁ䘶⡹ ⁑૫㒇 䍃䙗㈆㦁o㡷Іᥣ㡑p॓ₕ֥䌘๓ধᦁ૫㒇đ䍧ᢑਆ䕥䒅㡔ধᦁ≦եđ

ጔਔַ䌘⒐ᦈ㤇㤶đ䅓䘶㥔
㔸≅䕅⁨‫ڑ‬b


䄀䉅

TOM FORD  癈㔓㌀䄀䉅⥗ 䉐䉷11䕥≦䁂⦁㌀đ₂ਊґa㌢ਊa㝡ᡑᤤ䁹ᡑ㔓䕥㍐ᦃ㥔ᡶ䊇䅢ᤧ֥䄀䉅⥗b

䒃␧䄀䉅⥗֥ᔵห䔥ጡĤ䅅㑧㕩֥㡷䕅䕓ֹᤤ㌀ґ䙸ᤦb


Հ䊁

GIORGIO ARMANI έઑ⢄䒐䕅㔈㉗䁹ᡑՀ䊁 ⤡䌓֥㌀ґ㉓㉰㔈㉗䕓ֹđՎ␧ᥕᡅՀ䊁ᔵऎ㙷োӁ〰䕙㍆⅘֥ਊ䐆㥔ᡶb

Ч㡴ਙ䅢᠃㜃ጇ 25 䕥Ўᤤ䂔㌀đิប‫پ‬᜘֥㌀ґ䁂䐄đ㈰㈸۷℘ᡑґ䑰㈸b


หљⅸ㤱

SISLEY ㈆⡹㉨䅡 䘓䅖〹㝴㜂䅢䕅๙ᡸЧ∷֥หљⅸ㤱ⅲϯ䌁ӈ⢓⠒㦆㌳〰i i SISLEY ㈆⡹㉨䅡b

䒃␧䍧ᢑ䔩㠸≦ե֥㉨䅡㙷㐀ऎСЌ㎓䙉㉸a䀉᥷⁑ᦈ֩䘶㥔ទ⡹b


ゕᑹᙖָ

YVES SAINT LAURENT ㎈અধ⠒ґㅦᑹᙖָ䅡 ऎ䘶㥔ᤤ㐄䉤ទ⡹֥䅢␧ゕᑹᙖָđ

ㅦ䉄֥䕓ֹյ䎙ጇ㜹ૅᚑ์aት⊐㠡᜗ք֥䁹ᡑ䘢ָb


ॆ⒐≦ᦃ

LA PRAIRIE 䊖䙖≦ᦃ≅䂔䅡 䒃␧≦ᦃ䅡᜘ᢑ䊖䙖≦ᦃđ䉷㥔ิ㎂≅䕅⁨‫ڑ‬ទ㥔b

䕧㔷⁨‫֥ڑ‬㥔ᡶ␥㔴‫ط‬ㅑ㤅䖙đ㙷㐀䉷䘁䊇ሥ㥔≅䕅đ㈰⤉㉖ᡑ ᖙb


Հૠ

DIOR ְύ癈⁖Հ᝕ 䔸䀙䅅ㅦㅦ䅢⠧đ㕩⌀㈰㒈Հ䑉㤇㉠ᡑਊ䐆đӯ㤇‫پ‬䉄㥔ᡶbְύ癈⁖Հ᝕֥

䘓㑧⦁ᘦ㈰㕩䎁㝩Հ䘢䐉เ䙗㈢ᡑґ֥㙷㐀đ䅓҂㝗䙉㉸㒈Հb


ᙖָ

GIORGIO ARMANI έઑ⢄ն㎉䎙㦒ᙖָ㉨ 䒃␧ᙖָ㉨֥䕓ֹ㔈ᦅ㡷⢈䊃ㅦ䉄㑓㐥đ䎁䑵戄ᜉᜰ৯ᤤ䂒䑂㦙ᔱ䉷㤗֒䅆䄀֥і㤇b

⁸ⅉᙨᝲ㍡℅֥〸㍦㈰Ӂ〰۷㤅ᡨゕb


удасЩР

DIOR ╓░╧НуеИтИиудасЩР фТГуРвфЕвтРзрдО╨б╒╢╓ЙувХтБС█▒ужЩ╓етдзудаbчОЕсджсЭ▓ржШуФВтВГ╒╢ркФуРФсЭ░риЖфХетЭЖсбФ╓есжБудатБвтАл╫ШтАмфХЩ─С

сжШфЙРфЙ╖фЕвтазрд╡ржШ╥ГтФвфВАсЩ╖уР╖сЬ╡╓еуЕ░ужБ─СтАл┘ЕтАмуСзсбЦфВАтбШуД▒хЙ╡тбЙсддтШбтвДуЭЙ╓ЫсЩЦсеХсейтЖД╓еужАржЬфЕУуЭйуХй╒╡фОЩриФсФ╡р╕луВХфН░b


Ќ㎓≦ᦃ

03*(*/4 ‫⁑گ‬Ҥ㒑㉸䀉᥷≦ᦃ㔳 Վ␧Ќ㎓≦ᦃ᜘ᢑ䅢䕥‫⁑گ‬Ҥ≦եđ䒃䕥䔩㠸㐥䈵۲䕥䂈⎂֥㍹ሥᦖ≴đ

䊃Фӫ㝩䅉০ᝢ֥❆ᡔđ⡹᠒䁥㔴㒑㉸㍷㚉ᜲ䐂⁨‫ڑ‬b ㍖䉅䘁┠ UEDA DAIKI GABRIEL BOSC, THOMAS LEVY.


{ S K P } Է䈁⁒ဒ

DREAMLIKE DESIGNS ❱䔥≱

⠖ਙ㈆ㆃ҃≱㍡℅ն㎉䔥䅢֥ HERVÉ SAUVAGE 䘓㝩䚃 ‫פ‬₉㈃㝙֥㐀䘡㠠ᤤ䚃ऎ㍸㝖֥䍴䕁㍡℅❱ ҃≱bЧ़ 䕙 㠉ૌหљᕕᦉ䒃㞆ሥづ䌄 SKP ᤦ䚒a㝩ૄ䅢づᡒᝡն〙 յ䎙䆈㑨ሢ≱֥฿ᅤ ≉㉰㕨֥Է䈁㐕∲b 䘖㞕 François Castrillo

㤗㦄㕦䉷֥㈸ᔱ⅘ᡸ䒃㞆҃≱䆈㑨℗֥䚒〰 ₇ь㠡‫∉م‬ጇ㕨 ֥ն⠖iiHervé Sauvageb䒃㞆҃≱฿ᅤ䌄 Sølve Sundsbø Jean-Baptiste Mondino ᤤ Guido Mocafico ֩䔡⠖㍖䉅ն㎉ ৳㐷 㐢⥉㍖㤇ሢ֥⡆ᥢទӡ䔥䅢b≓ 20 ⢓ট 㕨䌄 Hermès 㝩 VogueaHarper’s Bazaar ᤤ Numéro ֩䕩‫؟‬㐀㌷䍴䕁ⅲ䅢 ⡆⡆㝅㉦❱≴֥㍡℅ ᦈ㝩䒇㐄ሢ≱ ⤉㐢㉦ᤥӮ㝩҃≱㍡℅㎉֥Ĥ 䒃䅢ㅉ⎐䆇㒘∓㐢⥁㈢b㒘䒇֥ 㝹㉰㦕ㄗ 㠉۴Ч҂ਔ∧䒃 ۱䔧䅖b㠉֥䘓䅖㐢䆈㑨㐆 ᥢট≉㉰ Nina Ricci ք㉁ገԳ ҃䕆֥䔧㡀ᤔₑ⢓b−䙂 㠉ᤤ㐀㉁ Balenciaga Է䈁䙥ℱ ֥ Nicolas Ghesquière ᤦ䚒 ᜗䐃ገԳ㍡℅䆇₃㐀䘡ᖙ҃ ‸֥҃≱ձⅩb֒㐀 ㍖䉅ն㎉ Satoshi Saï kusa ₃㐀㌷⥁ 㤴 Isabella Blow ਆ㈸䔐䅅৳㐷㝩E┕ϱ Vogue ⥉㍖䅢䙸ն 〙 㠉䎁䈗䍄℉‸㢇㑃䄲℘㉰㜂ᕔք㉁҃≱㍡℅㎉b䒃䅢䙸ն〙 ⁔֤ਔऍն֥
㤩 ՖՎ 㠉֥ញ䚒䄲䍑҂䐑๔ᡸb

176

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷Ġ&%8"3% )&/%3*$,4 ḡ )&3.& 4

Dior Louis Vuitton ₃ Van Cleef & Arpels ֩≨ᑷ〰⥑ᤦ䚒 䅓


䚈䅔 С㑃۲∲ 〰⥑֥ㅥ杗 ⁔䄲ᤦ䚒 㕨҂ᐠ㝩 ‫م‬ᡵ≦〰䕀䅖 ARJOWIGGINS ᠐㔅 㦓㤶ᡒᝡ 䚈䅔㌶ 䅓㝩 HERMÈS 㦁℘ぁゃⅣᒃᔵ℗յ䎙 "THROUGH THE WALLS" ℗ं㐩〰䑂 Ч䅔 HERVÉ SAUVAGE


{ S K P } Է䈁⁒ဒ

ㅶ䌄㠉ૌซซ⤉֥Է䈁ਲ᜹ট䍃 㠉֥ਲ᜹㐸㢓ট䙗䊇ӑ㤇㐄䖘䈄䆈㑨℗֥䚒〰 б০㐀ᦆ℗ઔ ᝲ০หčMagritteĎ֥Է䚒㐕∲۳ਔ㠉኉ᙑ֥䙉䄩b֤䔡㕨䐑≨ Ֆ㐗ᡒᝡ㍡℅ 䅓㈰㠉᜹֞㤗֒≥㡱bਸ਼㜱 ⡹ᜐ䌁㠉ਲ᜹֥ ᦘ 䉷҂ᕐᝰ㦁֥㐀սᙨӖb㠉㡱ᦕ䌄⢓ㅦ㐕ս㤗ጡ −ጠ䚃㦁॓ ₕbи⊀ 㠉֥ញ䚒҂≇≇䌄䆈㑨㤗ᡁ 䅓с䀢∦ᤦₕ㑨b҃≱ ㍡℅֥ញ䚒ӈӈ䀙䅅૫ਢ䅢㥖ₕ㑨㌶֥⑐⡨ ২㉦㉦ᤥձⅩ҃ ≱₃㉦ᤥ䍦㑑֥㠁ีb ⤉䊃㐢㉦ᤥ㝩ૄ䅢۱҂㙷֥҃≱㤱⡐䑧֞㜹ૅ┠㤨֥֡ऎ֥ 㠉䙥㐢֞ጡo䁗Џ 䅓䌄⠸㥖E┕䆈ↀᤦ䚒 ふ䕙䅢㞆ጇ㌀֥ ձⅩ㎉۷㐢㠉ሥづ֥ᤦ䚒⁒ဒb㠉䅓۴ऌૄ䅢۱㤱⡐㒖䈵‫ט‬ 䔈b㠉֥ញ䚒㦙䕓б∈ห㑉 㠉ѩ٤䆈㑨℗ 㠉㐢㝩⠸㈸⁕⠸ ۱〰⥑ิបᚑ㡀 ₇ь䚒〰䕙䙥㐢⎐⅘㠉֥Է䈁іղᤤ۱㈸ᙨ ᝲb㤇䎁 㠉䉷㦗㝩Їও Hermès 䎁⡷֥⡘㥖۳䌁㠉䒇䔐䙗䉰 ᕃ֥‫פ‬₉〰⥑㥔৯ ⁕㐢䌄䆈㑨℗ૌᤦ䚒 ২㉦‫م‬ᡵ֒ս䆈㑨 ℗ Valérie Belin 㝴㜓㠉㝩㕰≓づ₇ⅲईပ֥㍖䉅䑂յ䎙҃≱b ㅶ䌄㠉ૌᙑ㤰⤉ᤤ SKP ֥ᤦ䚒≨䄔 ২㉦o䑉٢ SKPp䒃䅢䖘 ีն〙 㠉٤ӈ㡱ᦕ䒃۱ᤦ䚒㤱⡐b䈗㝩㕩ऎ䉷㤗֒‫็֥؟‬䑆đ২㉦с 䀢क़ᚑ䅢ㅉ⑐⡨ Ϝ㕦䉷֥҃≱֡ऎϬ䍦֞㌈⠳䔥䕙b㠉䅓᤹ ㈵䕣䌄Է䈁䙥ℱ Fabien Mouillard 䅢ょញ䚒 䈗㝩㕨ᕕ䊇ૄ䅢 ۱㤱⡐䙥㐢䉐䉷ऎุ⠒㈘֥㤨‫م‬đ䒃䅢ׄ㐢䊗␥ᤦ䚒֥⁢጖b ⤉᜗䐃յ䎙֥ሢ≱๙ӈ䔸թ䎁䊇ն〙⥉㍖づℵ ⥉㍖㜹Ӯᥢ

Ϣᒅᝓਵभр ϢϥЋ℘Ϫ ‫℘ڈ‬ϭጄन٤ㄔ‫ע‬ⁱ񂤥

㕇₇ҷ㐶b⤉㐢ᙸᕕՎ᜹֞उ㊔Ĥ ҂‸ 䈗㝩䒃㐢䅢۱ᡸӱb㠉䆄≨㡩ᡈ䎁≅₄ㅴঃ䕙㜹Ӯ㤱 ⡐ 䉤䚃␥֥㔴ᕃ䕉䚒ሢ≱֡ऎb㠉ૌ䙥㐢䎁᤹ᕇ֥㐀ℵ⡷ ≅䑔ញ䚒 䒃㥖҃≱䌶Ч⌀҂㐢㝩ਔሥ⊐թ䎁‫ط‬䕉䚒 䒃䅓䔐 㐢҃≱㍡℅֥ু㆙㕦䎁b䙥䔥 䒇㐄䈰䎁⡱ᢂ┢֥ 㐢⡘ૅᤔ

‫م‬ᡵ≦〰䕀䅖 ARJOWIGGINSč䚈㚓 HERMÈS Ч⥐㌶㚓 㢇㚓 ₃‫م‬ᡵᤈॢ AIR FRANCE Ч⥐䕙㚓 ᔱ䌄 HERVÉ SAUVAGE ֿ∦ᤦ䚒ᡁ㡴 ৳㐷յ䎙Է䈁㤱⡐

㚓〙ট䍃 ϱ㈃㕦䉷 &%8"3% )&/%3*$,4 ḡ )&3.& 4

㒕ℵ֥⠦৯b




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