Saigon/Hanoi - 20th Edition - 2018

20 TH KA ě ÝÇ ӳ їѕіѝ

HONG DUC PUBLISHING HOUSE

ANNIVERSARY 2008-2018

The most comprehensive information website for residents of HCMC Vietnam’s leading travel platform in English Promotions, events, listings, reviews, interviews and more.

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YOUR PREMIUM GATEWAY TO VIBRANT VIETNAM

E E SSAIGON ot sgniht

10 Reasons Why I Live in Vietnam There are 10 reasons why I have called Vietnam my home for the past decade, and why I’ll call it home for years to come.

editor's note

Let us begin with the people. The Vietnamese are their country’s greatest asset. Having lived here for 10 years, I know that most are Kind at heart. You only have to get onto the streets to know this – just walk and count how many open, honest smiles you share with passing strangers before you reach your destination. And then, the Vietnamese are Generous. My local family hosts us too often, and they love doing it. We never leave the house without receiving a gift. They always offer me the best piece of food – the nicest cut of meat, the freshest vegetables, the thickest spring roll. With generosity comes hope, and for most Vietnamese, life is better now and it will get better soon. There is hope in the eyes of every parent and child that we meet. This buoyant Optimism is rather contagious and those who don’t feel it won’t survive long in this country. You see for so many, life is hard in Vietnam, and without optimism life can be impossible. Hard Work is part of everyday life here – in the lives of the young and the old; of the farmers and the street sellers; of those who work 24/7 to feed their families. It is this iron work ethic that produces inner strength and Resilience. Vietnam has been invaded by some of the greatest and most powerful civilisations in history, their sovereignty threatened again and again, and every time they have come out as the victors. Yet they are humble and magnanimous about it.

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editor's note

A sense of family values gives way to a Respect for others, and this respect, especially for elders, is an essential part of Vietnamese culture. A Confucian value deeply rooted in Vietnamese society, true respect for elders and for teachers is both expected and celebrated in Vietnam.

things SAIGON to SEE

Possibly this attitude can be attributed to culture. The core of Vietnamese society is the strength of its Family Values, an intrinsic part of Vietnamese philosophy. It was in Vietnam that I discovered the true meaning of family values; here we learn to live with the family, by the family and for the family.

The Vietnamese also hold a deep respect for Education, and for the educated. People of all ages in Vietnam pursue their education as far as they can. My sister-in-law began her PhD at 40 and her husband, who is 47, just graduated with a master’s degree. Both have full-time jobs and they never complained about their lack of leisure time. Perhaps as a product of their respect for each other and for education, the Vietnamese people embrace Tolerance. There are 54 ethnic minorities in this country and different religions abound, all coexisting without conflict. Religious activities often span multiple belief systems. It is not uncommon to see a Christian praying at the Buddhist temple or vice versa. Finally, anyone who has lived here long enough will recognise that this country is Safe. Petty crime does exist due to poverty, but severe crime is rare thanks to a complete ban on arms, and thanks to a strong police force and army who do not tolerate disorder and violence. I hope these 10 reasons will inspire you to explore this beautiful country further, and help you discover your own special reasons why Vietnam is a place you’ll never forget. Patrick Gaveau, CEO & Editor-in-Chief saigon

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E E SSAIGON ot sgniht table of contents

front MATTER 7-12 introduction 7-8 24/48 hours 10-11 quick start 12 things to SEE 13-36 district 1 14-26 district 2 27 district 3 28-29 districts 5, 6 & 10 30-32 district 9 & 10 33 district 7 34 best of 35-36 where to EAT 37-54 local 38-41 local & international 42 international 43-49 further suggestions 50-53 special offers 54 where to DRINK 55-70 coffee 56-57 craft beer 58-61 bars & lounges 61-67 night clubs 68 live music 69-70 where to SHOP 71-86 souvenirs 72-76 food 77-78 fashion 79-81 malls & markets 82-83 shopping streets 84-85 further suggestions 86 where to STAY 87-92 introduction 88 hotels 88-91 further suggestions 92

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things SAIGON to SEE

things to DO 93-106 94-96 tours 97 entertaiment 98-99 spas & beauty 100-101 for kids 102-106 activities

119-129 120-121 122-123 124-125 126-127 128-129

where to VISIT table of contents

107-118 108 109-110 111-112 113 114-115 117 118

day trips mekong delta southern coast phan thiet & mui ne phu quoc con dao da lat

MAPS districts 1 & 3 districts 1, 5 & 10 district 7 districts 2 & binh thanh tan binh & phu nhuan districts

need to KNOW I-XXV II-III vietnam fact sheet IV price guide V climate VI-IX things to keep in mind XI visas and public holidays XII money XIII internet and phone XIV communication XV-XVI health XVII-XX travel XVIII-XXII embassies and consulates XXIII-XXIV visual dictionary XXV history

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contributors

EOUR E S otTEAM s g n i ht

Molly Headley-Benkaci Editor Molly received her B.F.A. from CalArts in the US, and a Master’s degree from the University of Oxford in England. She was short-listed for Fulbright scholarships in 2005 and 2006. Some of her favorite projects have included translating a graphic novel about Prince Albert I for the place of Monaco and writing about life in France for “The Places We’ve Been” travel anthology. Personal insight: Molly was a professional dancer before heading back to university.

Arik Jahn Content Writer German in origin, Arik developed a penchant for foreign languages early in life and followed his passion by studying French literature in university. After stops in Amiens, France, and Prague, Czech Republic, he first set foot on Asian ground in Ho Chi Minh City in 2015 and stayed to pursue a career in publishing and creative writing. Personal insight: Arik had never tried seafood before he came to Vietnam. Crab noodle soup is now among his favourite dishes. Hera Nguyen Design Manager A law school graduate turned self-taught artist, everything changed for Hera when she discovered the world of graphic design. From an interest in fashion, passion for graphic design bloomed. For Hera, life is an exercise in balance. When working, she likes to work hard. When not, you can find her cycling, walking or shopping. Personal insight: Hera is also a trained martial artist and enjoys practicing akido, one of the ancient Japanese martial arts. You've spotted a mistake? We've missed your favourite hidden-gem restaurant? Tell us at production@innovo.vn.

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thingsMATTER front to SEE introduction

Ho Chi Minh City’s History in a Nutshell Prior to the 17th century, Ho Chi Minh City was named Prey Nokor. It was a small port town under Cambodian rule until legendary army commander Nguyen Huu Canh led tens of thousands of Vietnamese to settle in the area in 1698. The town was renamed Sai Gon. The French initially came to Vietnam as traders and missionaries but eventually took over Sai Gon in 1859. They simplified the name to Saigon and made the city the capital of the colonial empire of Cochinchina. The city remained under colonial rule until France’s fall from power during World War II. In 1940, the Japanese occupied Saigon and remained until their surrender to the US in 1945. French troops

subsequently recaptured Saigon, triggering the First Indochina War. Brutal battles were fought between the French and their Viet Minh opponents until the International Geneva Conference in 1954, when North and South Vietnam were officially separated. Between 1955 and the Fall of Saigon in 1975, the city became the headquarters for US military operations during what is known in Vietnam as the American Resistance War or the Second Indochina War. On 30 April 1975, Saigon was recaptured by Vietnamese troops. A North Vietnamese tank broke through the gates of today’s Reunification Palace and became a symbol of victory for the Vietnamese People’s Army. The city was renamed Ho Chi Minh City in 1976. saigon

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front E E SMATTER ot sgniht introduction

Ho Chi Minh City: A Bustling Metropolis Holding onto its Past Today, the city boasts an official population of around nine million. The capricious southern weather—a blend of harmony and chaos— reflects life in the city. Traffic is dense and never-ending, while the street life (and street food) is some of the best in the world. Sit down and enjoy the show! Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam, but Ho Chi Minh City is its commercial heart and a magnet for foreign investors. The city is forecasted to become Asia’s second fastest growing economy by 2021. Today, new business ventures and ambitious development projects pop up at a dizzying rate. Progress aside, Saigon is steeped in tradition. Colonial architecture stands next to dilapidated, rickety 8

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homes and modern skyscrapers. Whether zooming by on a motorbike or sipping designer cocktails at a rooftop bar, there is something to explore for every type of traveller. Foundation Date: 1698 Founder: Nguyen Huu Canh Renamed Ho Chi Minh City: 1976 Total Area: 2,096.56 km2 Population (2017): 8.43 million Population Density (2017): 4,000/km2 Area Code: 028 Governance: Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee Chairman of People’s Committee: Nguyen Thanh Phong Districts: 19 Urban Districts, 5 Suburban Districts GRDP (2016): $45.3 billion GRDP Per Capita (2016): $5,430 Minimum Wage (2017): $165 Main Industries: Trade, Tourism, Finance, Software, Construction

things SAIGON to SEE quick start

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front E E SMATTER ot sgniht 24/48 hours

WHAT TO DO IN 24/48 HOURS? Day 1 Morning Had a long flight and can’t get any sleep? Head out to Tao Dan Park (p. 23) before sunrise and watch the Saigonese enjoying their morning fitness routines. Not an early bird? Start your day with a strong coffee at the hip L’Usine (p. 57) on Dong Khoi Street (p. 16). The Saigon Opera House (7 Cong Truong Lam Son, D.1) is just across the street. Once you’ve taken a picture or two, head north on Dong Khoi Street until it turns into Cong Xa Street. There you’ll see the iconic Notre Dame Cathedral (p. 15), currently under renovation. Another 19th-century landmark is right next to it: Saigon’s French colonial-style Central Post Office (p. 15). 10

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Craving a banh mi, pho (p. 38, 39) or just a smoothie? Join Han Thuyen Street on the other side of the Cathedral and look out for Propaganda Vietnamese Bistro (p. 51) on your left. Your next stop is the Reunification Palace (p. 16), legendary symbol of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam. After some sightseeing, grab a ca phe sua da at the outdoor cafe located in the back of the palace gardens. Afternoon If you’re hankering for a full meal, try some rooftop fine-dining at Fish Sauce Restaurant on Rooftop Level 6, Le Duan. The meal should give you strength for the intensity of the War Remnants Museum (p. 29). Afterwards, hop in a taxi and enjoy an artisanal hot chocolate courtesy of Maison Marou (p. 78). From there

Evening

The last sightseeing stop will give you a break from Saigon traffic. At the end of the cheerful hustle and bustle on Nguyen Hue walking street you’ll find the impressive City Hall (p. 17). If you still have some energy left, dance the night away at ITC Catwalk (p. 61). Day 2 Morning Start your day with a Westernstyle breakfast and artful coffee at L’Usine (p. 57). This time, take your time on Dong Khoi Street to browse and buy some souvenirs. For the fashion conscious pop into Metiseko (p.79) for clothing made from Vietnamese silk and organic cotton. Don’t miss Couleurs by Réhahn Fine Art Photography (p. 74) featuring selections from the famous photographer Réhahn. Get a Coconut Coffee at Ca Phe Co Ba (p. 57) while you make your way up to the Botanical Gardens (p. 23). Skip the animal cages and enjoy the greenest spot in downtown Saigon. If you feel inclined, check out the

Afternoon Walk to Belgo (p. 60) to get a great value Western three-course set lunch paired with cool craft beer or for some of the city’s finest seafood taxi to Son Ngu Restaurant (70 Suong Nguyet Anh, D.1). From there, learn about traditional Vietnamese medicine at the FITO Museum (p. 32). Ask them for a tasting of their healthy tea assortment after perusing the collection. As the afternoon heat subsides, explore Chinatown (p. 30), most notably the Binh Tay Market (p. 32) and the Tan Son Hoi Quan and Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagodas (p. 31).

24/48 hours

Grab a happy hour cocktail and stunning sunset views at Chill Skybar (p. 63), then appease your hunger in the secluded Mountain Retreat oasis (p. 41).

National History Museum (p. 18) that is also located on the premises.

thingsMATTER front to SEE

a quick walk up Calmette Street will bring you to the Ben Thanh Market shopping frenzy (p. 18).

Evening Don’t miss the incredible acrobats performing in the A O Show (p. 97) at the Opera House. You can buy tickets at all major sightseeing spots or at the Opera House itself. Have a late dinner complete with breathtaking views of the sparkling city at EON 51 (Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, D.1) or SOHY (74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.3). If you want to dig deeper into Saigon’s hip craft beer scene, Pasteur Street Brewing Company (p. 59) is the place to go. If you feel fancy rather than rustic, straighten your tie and get your infusion of electronic music and sterling cocktails at Qui Mixology (p. 68) to end your Saigon stay in style. saigon

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front E E SMATTER ot sgniht quick start

CONDENSED NEED TO KNOW Also see Need to Know on pages I-XXVI Currency: Vietnamese Dong (VND): $1=VND23,350 (Sep, 2018) €1=VND27,196 ¥1=VND213 £1=VND30,256 AUD1=VND16,843 RUB1=VND374 HKD1=VND2,991 CAD1=VND17,816 Visas: A visa is generally necessary. However, there are 15-day visa waivers for several countries. Check beforehand. If you need one, apply a month in advance through travel agencies or online visa services. If you’ll be travelling outside of Vietnam, check to see if you’ll need a multiple-entry visa. Money: ATMs can be found all over the city. Credit cards are widely accepted, but it’s always a good idea to bring cash. Dollars are not accepted. Mobile Phones: The most popular providers are Viettel, Mobifone and Vinaphone. Local SIM cards are cheap (starting from VND100,000 or $5 for data-only cards). You can buy them at the airport or any official mobile network store. Time: Indochina Time Zone (UTC+7 hours) Plugs & Adaptors: 220V, 50Hz.

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American type A plugs and plugs with two round pins usually work without an adaptor. Tipping: Not expected on the street, yet becoming common in fancier bar and restaurant settings. If there’s no service charge, leave 5 to 10% at international venues. Arriving in Saigon: Tan Son Nhat International Airport (SGN), only 10km from the city centre, is the largest airport in Vietnam. Prepare the written address of your hotel and choose one of these options: (1) Catch a Cab: You can’t miss the taxi stands. Look out for the white Vinasun, the green Mai Linh or the yellow Vinataxi cars. Say no to any other provider. A ride to your hotel in D.1 should cost VND120,000150,000 ($5-7). (2) Board a Bus: Walk out of the terminal and turn right to find the yellow shuttle buses to District 1. The bigger 109 line is cheaper (VND20,000=$1) and serves public bus stations in D.1. The slightly pricier and more comfortable 49 line (VND40,000=$2) drives along a special route to cover all major downtown hotels. Ask at the counter if they go to your hotel. (3) Grab: If you have a local SIM card and one of the apps on your phone, Grab is the cheapest options. Beware though, not all drivers speak English.

SEE

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things to SEE

things to

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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht district 1

District 1 (D.1) Profile District 1 is Saigon’s commercial hub and touristic centrepiece, the pounding heart of this sleepless city. The whole area is undergoing a dizzying evolution following the government’s plans to make it Vietnam’s ‘Little Singapore’. Nonetheless, street life continues to thrive and gives downtown Saigon a one-of-a-kind vibe. The colonial-era flair, together with the abundant choices of restaurants, bars and clubs, makes District 1 an urban jack-of-all-trades. Have your $1 noodle soup on a tiny plastic chair or an ambrosial cocktail on a designer stool on a 30th-floor rooftop – nothing is impossible here. Top Sights Reunification Palace (p. 16)

Top Restaurants L’Usine (p. 57)

City Hall and Nguyen Hue walking street (p. 17) Central Post Office (p. 15)

The Sushi Bar (p. 49)

Top Bars & Clubs Pasteur Street Brewing Company (p. 60) Chill Skybar (p. 63)

Mountain Retreat (p. 41)

Catwalk (p. 61)

Attraction Accessible for People with Disabilities

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things to SEE

Notre Dame Cathedral - Church

Cong Xa Paris, D.1 5:30am-5:00pm/Sunday

district 1

This twin-towered cathedral is one of the most prominent architectural marvels in the city. It was built in 1877, made 100% from imported French materials. The streets outside are always bustling with tourists, locals and street vendors. Although the décor is austere, the church comes alive during services. The only English mass is on Sundays at 9:30am. Free

Local insight: The Cathedral is fenced in due to renovation until 2019, but mass is still held normally. Saigon Central Post Office - Architecture Designed in beautiful French-colonial style by no-one less than Gustave Eiffel, the post office was built between 1886 and 1891. Generally filled with tourists, it is still a working post office. Get your postcards at Couleurs by Réhahn (p. 74) and send them off here. 2 Cong Xa Paris, D.1 Mon-Fri 7:00am-7:00pm/SatSun 7:00am-6:00pm Free

Local insight: Have a talk with famous 90-yearold letter writer and translator Duong Van Ngo, usually sitting in the back of the building. Book Street - Market Street The pedestrian book street has been open to the public since 2016. Most books are in Vietnamese but there is a small selection of English and French books. After browsing head to one of the cafés for some people-watching. Nguyen Van Binh, next to Saigon Central Post 8:00am-9:00pm/ Cafés 6:00am-11:00pm

Office

Local insight: Get your English books at the lovely Boa Bookstore (Room C26, 2nd Floor, 6 Cong Truong Quoc Te, D.3). saigon

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Dong Khoi Street - Walking Street

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Known as Rue Catinat during the French colonial days, this street was reborn during Doi Moi (p. XXIII) as the heart of Saigon’s commercial district. It has local boutiques, international brand outlets and restaurants housed in beautifully restored French colonial buildings, as well as historical venues such as the Grand Hotel and Hotel Majestic. It runs from Notre Dame Cathedral (p.15) to the river. Local insight: Most of the story of Graham Greene's world-famous novel “The Quiet American” takes place here. The Opera House - Architecture Great photo ops await those who seek out one of the city’s most prominent landmarks. The Opera House was built in 1897 by French architect Eugene Ferret and designed by ‘Mr Eiffel Tower’, Gustave Eiffel. Now classical concerts and operas are held here weekly. It is only open to the public during events, so be sure to check their current schedule. The prices are very reasonable. 7 Lam Son Square, D.1

Local insight: The critically acclaimed AO Show (p. 97) is performed at the Opera House. Reunification Palace - Architecture This grand building was designed by Ngo Viet Thu for South Vietnam’s former President Ngo Dinh Diem during the time of the American War. The official handover of power took place here on the 30 April 1975, and the palace became a monument to that historic date. 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D.1 7:30am-11:00am & 1:00pm-4:00pm VND40,000 (adults), VND20,000 (students), VND10,000 (5-17-years-old)

Local insight: Don't forget to watch the historical film on your way out in the dedicated cinema room. 16

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things to SEE

Nguyen Hue Street - Walking Street

district 1

Visit Saigon’s first pedestrian street at night and go all the way from the river to City Hall (p. 17) and the Ho Chi Minh statue. The glittering lights and cheerful hustle and bustle are sure to lift your spirits. If you're lucky enough to be in town during Tet, Vietnam's Lunar New Year, Nguyen Hue gets transformed into a massive flower street. Local insight: Watch the crowd from The Maker café on the third floor of the iconic 42 Nguyen Hue building. City Hall - Architecture At the top of Nguyen Hue walking street you’ll see the magnificent offices of the Ho Chi Minh City People’s Committee. Completed in 1908, the design of the former Hotel de Ville is based on the original in Paris. It’s one of the most stunning monuments in the city, especially when lit at night. Le Thanh Ton and Nguyen Hue, D.1 Interior is not open to the public.

Local insight: Marvel at the City Hall from the rooftop of the adjacent Rex Hotel (p. 89). Happy hour: 5-7pm. Ho Chi Minh City Museum - History Built around 1885, the beautiful French-colonial building is well worth a visit, yet the exhibits – archaeological artifacts, city maps and the like – are only averagely interesting. The building was once the center of the city government after Reunification Palace was destroyed by a bombing. 65 Ly Tu Trong, D.1 VND15,000

8:00am -5:00pm

Local insight: Beneath the museum is a network of tunnels that goes as far as the Reunification Palace. saigon

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National History Museum - History The National History Museum is devoted to Indochinese architecture. Definitely also pass through the Cham section, which includes some relics taken from Cambodia’s Angkor Wat. Note that you’re asked to pay VND40,000 extra to take photos in the museum.

district 1

2B Nguyen Binh Khiem, D.1 Tues-Sun 8:00amVND15,000 11:30am & 1:30pm-5:00pm

Local insight: Outside the rear entrance enormous bronze panels detail Vietnam’s history. Ben Thanh Market - Market It can be a bit daunting to make sense of this market with its more than 3,000 vendor stalls. Luckily, we laid everything out in an organised grid (see opposite page)! Put on a steely demeanor, as sellers here are particularly persistent with tourists. Go to the fixed-price area for some hassle-free souvenir shopping and check the night market after 6pm for a quick dinner. Intersection of Le Loi, Ham Nghi and Le Lai, D.1 5:30am-6:00pm

Local insight: Climb up the staircase hidden behind Shop 94 in the south corner and escape the market madness at the in-house shrine.

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things to SEE

BEN THANH MARKET MAP NORTH Le Thanh Ton Street Entrance

MEAT & FISH

FRUIT & VEG

ARTS & CERAMICS

DRIED GOODS

GIFTS

CONFECTIONERY

COSMETICS

CLOTHING

WEDDING MATERIALS

East Entrance (Phan Boi Chau Street)

EATERIES

district 1

West Entrance (Phan Chu Trinh Street)

MEAT & FISH

JEWELLERY

Le Loi Street Entrance SOUTH

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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht

Bitexco Financial Tower - Viewpoint

district 1

Opened in 2010, the 262.5m-high Bitexco Financial Tower was the tallest tower in Saigon until the Landmark 81 surpassed it this year. Bitexco’s design was inspired by Vietnam’s national flower, the lotus. The Saigon Skydeck, found on the 49th floor, offers breathtaking panoramas of the city for VND200,000. The building is also home to three bars and two restaurants on the 50th, 51st and 52nd floors. We recommend EON51 for a dinner with a view. 45 Ngo Duc Ke, D.1

9:30am-9:30pm

Local insight: The helipad on the 52nd floor was shipped to Vietnam in one piece from Korea. Rainbow Bridge - Architecture This pedestrian bridge was built by Gustave Eiffel in 1882. While it’s a great vantage point to marvel at Bitexco Tower (p. 20), the river view is obstructed by the current construction of a flood control system. Adjacent to Pasteur and the Thu Thiem tunnel D.1

Local insight: On weekends, the bridge is a favourite spot for betrothed couples taking wedding pictures. Huyen Sy Church At over 100 years old, this church is the oldest and second largest in Saigon. It was named after Huyen Sy, grandfather of Vietnam’s last queen. You can find the tombs of Mr and Mrs Huyen Sy off to the side of the nave. 1 Ton That Tung, D.1 Free 5:00am-5:30pm; Sunday, Mass is held at 5:00am, 6:30am, 8:00am, 4:30pm, 6:00pm, 7:30pm

Local insight: Go at night – the neon lights provide a unique and dazzling exterior. 20

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things to SEE

Jade Emperor Pagoda - Temple

73 Mai Thi Luu, D.1 8:00am-5:00pm

district 1

Built in 1909 by Saigon’s Chinese population, this atmospheric Cantonese pagoda features the Jade Emperor (heaven’s keeper), who keeps watch over the incense-filled rooms and their hidden chambers, altars and woodcarvings. One of the halls honours the most important deity of fertility, Kim Hua, while the second storey represents heaven and features the goddess of Mercy, Kwan Ying. Free

Local insight: The turtles in the pond next to the entrance are said to bring good luck. Jamia Al Muslimin Mosque - Mosque One of the 12 mosques serving the city, Jamia Al Muslimin Mosque was constructed for southern Indian worshippers. Muslims from all over the world now come here to pray, though the shaded veranda makes an ideal place for anyone to sit during the heat of the day. Dine at the compound’s halal restaurant, which offers cheap Indian and Malay food. 66 Dong Du, D.1

6:00am-9:00pm

Free

Local insight: Remember to dress modestly, covering your shoulders and knees. Mariamman Hindu Temple - Temple This temple seems out of place with its colourful facade that jumps out from its surroundings. Inside, incense fills the air, completing the tranquil setting. The temple was built by traders from Tamil Nadu and is named after the goddess Mariamman, worshipped for her miraculous powers, which include romantic matchmaking abilities. 45 Truong Dinh, D.1

7:00am – 7:00pm

Free

Local insight: Remember to remove your shoes before stepping onto the raised platform. ©citypassguide.com

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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht district 1

Park Culture in Saigon Parks are some of the most popular public spaces in Saigon. Some date back to the French colonial period, like Tao Dan Park (p. 23), the Botanical Gardens (p. 23) and Le Van Tam Park (on the corner of Dien Bien Phu and Hai Ba Trung in D.1). Locals who want to burn some calories come to parks in the early morning to exercise or for some impromptu dance classes. Young people venture here to study, hang out and practice English with foreigners. Just sit down on a bench and wait – you’ll have a local conversation partner in no time! If you’re out early enough, check out the bird café in Tao Dan Park where Vietnamese men, mostly the elderly, come to show off their prized birds, enjoy the morning air and chat over a cup of coffee. 22

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things to SEE

30-4 Park - Nature

This small, shaded park takes its name from Vietnam’s Reunification Day, 30 April 1975. Connecting the Reunification Palace (p. 16) with Notre Dame Cathedral (p. 15), it’s a popular meeting place for young and old Saigonese alike. Le Duan (in front of the Reunification Palace), D.1

district 1

Local insight: After a morning stroll, step into nearby Au Parc (23 Han Huyen) for a latte and croissant. Tao Dan Park - Nature This urban park covers 10 hectares with over 1,000 large trees and plenty of lush greenery. In early mornings the park is filled with people exercising to booming dance music, walking and practising tai chi. Look out for the replica of Nha Trang’s Cham Tower and the Hung King Temple, or wander around the many statues in the east side of the park. Truong Dinh (a five-minute walk north of Ben Thanh Market), D.1

Local insight: During Tet, Vietnam’s Lunar New Year, Tao Dan Park is the best place to go to see a live “dragon dance”. Saigon Zoo & Botanical Gardens Nature The gardens feature a wide range of animals including rare snakes, elephants, giraffes and birds, but beware – many animals look visibly uncared-for. We recommend you stroll through the lush botanical gardens for a retreat into nature or catch a theatre performance instead. Also, visit the butterfly garden! 2B Nguyen Binh Khiem, D.1 7:00am-6:30pm VND50,000 (adults), VND30,000 (children over 1.3m)

Local insight: Inside the main gate you’ll find the Temple of King Hung Vuong, built to honour the legendary founder of Vietnam. saigon

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Art Galleries - Saigon Definitely don’t overlook Ho Chi Minh City’s contemporary art spaces. Take a look at these art galleries and suck in all the creativity and calm they have to offer. Galerie Quynh (Nguyen Van Thu, D.1) is considered one of Vietnam’s leading contemporary art galleries and showcases drawings, paintings, videos and installations in temporary exhibitions. Head to Ben Thanh Gallery (7 Nguyen Thiep, D.1) for a peek at the works of some of the most celebrated Vietnamese artists working today. Apricot Gallery (5052 Mac Thi Buoi, D.1) is well-known for the diversity and the quality of its artists. This gallery features sculptures as well as paintings. The renowned French photographer 24

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Réhahn has also recently opened a gallery called Couleurs by Réhahn (1st floor, 151/7 Dong Khoi, D.1), where his most well-known pieces are displayed. Admire his many signature portraits of the country’s ethnic minority members. Fine Arts Museum - Museum Set inside an exquisite 1929 colonial villa, this museum is home to Vietnamese art from the seventh century to today, with a focus on works made during colonial rule. The quality of some exhibits can be debatable. 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D.1 Tues-Sun 8am-6pm

VND10,000

Local insight: Check out one of the first wooden elevators in Saigon, located at the main staircase.

things to SEE district 1

Pham Ngu Lao There’s no place in Saigon quite like Pham Ngu Lao. Somewhat endearingly termed “the Backpacker District”, this area in the lower half of District 1 lives up to its name. Backpackers fresh off the bus and ready to make merry flock to Pham Ngu Lao, and especially the infamous Bui Vien Street. Here you’ll find the city’s most affordable hostels and 2 to 3-star hotels, international cuisine, plenty of dubious and less dubious massage parlours and pretty much everything in between. Formerly a busy and anxietyprovoking thoroughfare for cars, taxis and motorbikes, travellers and locals can now enjoy Bui Vien as a walking street every weekend. Be sure to check out The View at

Duc Vuong Hotel (195 Bui Vien) for a very low-key rooftop bar experience. The Crazy Dutch (189 Bui Vien) is considered a goto place for expat English teachers who like to drink; and dozens of Vietnamese-run beer parlours line the streets. However, it’s not just about drinking here – travellers also delight in the wide array of food options in the area as well. For Indian cuisine, Baba’s Kitchen (p. 42) can’t be beat; if you fancy Thai, be sure to try Coriander (16 Bui Vien); and for Vietnamese fare? Seafood fans should try Five Oysters (234 Bui Vien), the best pho eatery is Pho Quynh (323 Pham Ngu Lao), and Bun Cha 145 (145 Bui Vien) has just the right food to accompany a beer or two. saigon

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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht district 1

Where Couples Meet in Saigon Just like everywhere else in the world, couples love enjoying romantic, private moments. However, the dating scene in Vietnam is definitely different from what Westerners are used to, mainly because public displays of affection are frowned upon here. So what do couples do when they need some romantic time out of public view? Hop on their motorbike and drive around town! Saigon has a few romantic spots that attract a fair share of couples at night. The roundabout at Turtle Lake (Vo Van Tan and Tran Cao Van Streets, D.3) is definitely a famous hangout for teenagers. Couples 26

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stroll hand in hand along the city canals as well – especially at Nhieu Loc Canal, which separates Phu Nhuan District from the city centre. A bit further away from downtown, the Starlight Bridge, part of the Crescent Walk (Tan Phu Ward, D.7), provides a great getaway spot for a romantic night. And if you’d like to have a meal and get to know one another, our pick has to be Secret Garden (p. 41). This is Vietnamese food done really well, and the atmosphere is warm and inviting. Afterwards, if all goes well, bring your date to SOHY (74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.3) for some afterdinner drinks and breathtaking views of the entire city.

things to SEE district 2

District 2 (D.2) Profile What used to be little more than a large piece of swampland on the east bank of the Saigon River is now where the future of the city is happening. The southwestern Thu Thiem Ward is set to become Saigon’s new central business district. Watch the construction frenzy from D.1’s Ton Duc Thang Street. The northwestern Thao Dien Ward has become an expat wonderland in record speed, boasting a plethora of top-of-the-range restaurants, hip bars, en vogue fashion shops, ritzy villa compounds and luxury apartment high-rises. Definitely taxi over (the metro is still under construction) if you’re out for Western-style fine dining. And be warned: this is also one of the most flooding-prone districts during the wet season. Top Restaurants La Villa (p. 47)

Top Bars The Deck (p. 66)

Top For Kids Bama Kids Cafe (p. 35)

Pendolasco (p. 52)

Buddah Bar (p. 65)

MAD House (p. 53)

L'escale (p. 47)

Saigon Outcast (p. 66)

Snap Cafe (p. 52) saigon

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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht district 3

District 3 (D.3) Profile Located right next to District 1 and its cosmopolitan hustle and bustle, District 3 has a more local charm. Street vendors, outdoor markets and open-air restaurants dot the streets wherever you look. Lift your head every now and then to awe at the colourful mix of time-honoured French-style villas, Vietnamese-style row houses and state-of-the-art luxury homes as you stroll to District 3’s sights. Upscale restaurants and international food and beverage chains have begun to take hold here, but it never takes more than five minutes to walk back into authentic Vietnamese street life. So go ahead and explore!

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Top Sights War Remnants Museum (p. 29)

Top Restaurants Hum Vegetarian Café & Restaurant (p. 41)

Best Bars Beer Craft (p. 60)

Xa Loi Pagoda (p. 29)

Au Lac do Brazil (p. 52)

Yoko Café (p. 70)

Vinh Nghiem Pagoda (339 Nam Ki Khoi Nghia, D.3)

Kobe Teppanyaki (p. 48)

SOHY (74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.3)

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things to SEE

Southern Women’s Museum - History A feminist gem in Saigon, this museum is dedicated to the accomplishments of Vietnamese women. The exhibition covers three floors and focuses on ethnic dress, handicrafts and women’s struggles and triumphs throughout Vietnamese history. 202 Vo Thi Sau, Phuong 7, D.3 Mon-Sun 7:30am-11:30am & 1:30pm-5pm

Free district 3

Local insight: The offered tour showcases the invaluable contributions made by women in the fight for independence. War Remnants Museum - History This museum is not for the faint-hearted, as it houses harrowing images from the American War. Established in 1975, it displays US armoured vehicles, bombs, infantry weapons and, most importantly, controversial pictures detailing the brutality of war. Not to be missed is Requiem, a homage to the photojournalists who lost their lives in the war. 28 Vo Van Tan, D.3 Mon-Sun 7:30am–6pm

VND15,000

Local insight: Visit the Cu Chi Tunnels (p. 108) just outside of HCMC first for a real-life understanding of the guerrilla military tactics. Xa Loi Pagoda - Temple This seven-tiered pagoda is home to a Buddha relic, a 32m-high bell tower and even a publishing centre. It played an important role in the American War, when 400 monks and nuns were arrested for civil disobedience in 1963. Thich Quang Duc, one of the monks who protested through selfimmolation, has a memorial nearby. 89B Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D.3 Free Mon-Sun 7:00-11:00am & 2:00-5:00pm

Local insight: A special Buddhist ceremony is organised every Sunday from 8-10am. saigon

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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht districts 5, 6 & 10

Districts 5, 6 & 10 (D.5, D.6, D.10) Profile - Chinatown District 5, more popularly known as Cho Lon – ‘Big Market’ – is Saigon’s Chinese epicentre. If you expect one of those condensed little Chinatowns with a quirky, brightly coloured entrance gate you’ll see elsewhere, get ready for a surprise. Cho Lon is nothing short of a city in a city. Explore the streets to take in the crowded markets and picturesque pagodas that stretch into the surrounding districts. It is also undeniably the best place in the city to explore by traditional cyclo. Cho Lon is also the place to learn more about the distinctive way the Vietnamese have made Chinese medicinal traditions their own. While Western medicine is now widely accepted, ancient remedies are still occasionally used today, such as chewing betel, teeth dying (which prevents tooth decay) and eating ginger to protect against malaria.

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Top Sights FITO Museum (p. 32)

Top Restaurants Ngan Dinh Restaurant (p. 46)

Best Shopping Binh Tay Market (p. 32)

Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda (p. 31)

San Fu Lou (p. 46)

The Garden Mall (190 Hong Bang, D.5)

Nghia An Hoi Pagoda (p. 31)

Orientica Seafood Restaurant at Equatorial Hotel (242 Tran Binh Trong, D.5)

Lantern Street (p. 83)

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things to SEE

Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda - Temple Built by the Chaozhou Chinese population, Nghia An Hoi Quan is noteworthy for its gilded woodwork. A carved boat hangs over the entrance and to the left you’ll see a large representation of Quan Cong, a deified Chinese general from the Three Kingdoms Period. 8:30am-6pm

Free

districts 5, 6 & 10

678 Nguyen Trai, D.5

Local insight: The statue of Ong Bon, keeper of happiness and virtue, resides in a glass altar to the right of the main sanctuary. Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda - Temple Built by the Fujian Congregation in 1839, this lively pagoda has retained its rich design. Located on a small and quiet street, it is dedicated to Me Sanh, the Goddess of Fertility, and is frequently crowded with women praying for assistance with conception. 118 Trieu Quang Phuc, D.5

6:00am-6:00pm

Free

Local insight: The vendors at the entrance sell live fish meant to be set free, which supposedly brings good luck.

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Binh Tay Market - Market

districts 9 & 10

This is the central market of Cho Lon, Saigon’s Chinatown. A mix of French and Chinese architecture, this market, built in 1928, is the largest in town and has a smorgasbord of items for sale. The building is famed for its intricate facade, reddish-brown tiles and dominant yellow clock tower, along with its (practically) hassle-free shopping. Great spot for photography. 57A Thap Muoi, D.6

8:00 – 17:00

Local insight: The market deals in bulk. Many businesses haggle for the best wholesale here. Ao Dai Museum - Fashion Since its emergence in the 18th century, the bodyhugging ao dai (p. 81) has remained Vietnam's traditional dress. The cosy museum in District 9 tracks the development of the ao dai over the centuries. Be aware, it’s far from the city center. Our tip: choose the gallery in D.1 at 77 Nguyen Hue Street. 206/19/30 Long Thuan D.9 Tues-Sun 8:30am5:30pm VND100,000 VND50,000 (students)

Local insight: Visit the Si Hoang Show (p. 97) to experience the story of the ao dai told. FITO Museum - Traditional Medical This intriguing museum gives you the unique opportunity to see how Vietnamese traditional medicine has evolved over the years. Its collection of medicinal root slicers, apothecary’s mortars, lime pots, ceramic teapots and other instruments transport visitors back in time. If you want to compare these with the Chinese counterparts, check out the Chinese Medicine Market on Hai Thuong Lan Ong Street in District 5 (p. 30). 41 Hoang Du Khuong, D.10 Mon-Sun 8:30am - 5:00pm VND120,000 (Aduls) VND60,000 (Children) 32

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things to SEE districts 9 & 10 Binh Dong flower floating market (District 8) saigon

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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht district 7

District 7 (D.7) Profile Located in the south of Saigon, District 7 is a distance away from the hustle and bustle of District 1. This is where expats and the more affluent Vietnamese call home with a wide range of high-end apartments, as well as mansions and bungalows in the Phu My Hung area. There are a few shopping malls here, including SC VivoCity, Lotte Mart and Crescent Mall for your shopping needs, with plenty of restaurants serving international fare too. If you’re looking for a nice, peaceful spot for a picnic, the Starlight Bridge and the adjoining Ho Ban Nguyet Park are perfect venues. District 7 is also known as “Koreatown”, as a high proportion of Korean expats live here.

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Top Activities Starlight Bridge & Ho Ban Nguyet Park (p. 34) Saigon South Golf Club (p. 103)

Top Restaurants The Sushi Bar (p. 49)

Top Fun for Kids IMAX Cinema (p. 101)

Pizza 4P’s (p. 48)

Artinus 3D Art Museum (p. 100)

Golden Lotus Healing Spa World (p. 99)

Q.itchen Factory (p. 52)

Sky Park (p. 101)

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Watch where history unfolded at Reunification Palace (p. 16). The ultimate must-visit. Notre Dame Cathedral (p. 15) still remains Saigon’s iconic architectural landmark.

Best Museums At times polemic and definitely shocking. The War Remnants Museum (p. 29) is a Saigon must. What happened before the American War? The National History Museum (p. 18) has all the information. Mortars, pestles and a tea tasting – learn everything about Vietnamese traditional medicine at FITO Museum (p. 32). Best Pagodas You like atmospheric places and the smell of incense? Get both at the Jade Emperor Pagoda (p. 21). Pray for fertility and take in the ornamental figures at the Tam Son Hoi Quan Pagoda (p. 31). The Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda (p. 31) is a richly decorated sanctuary of peace and photo ops. Best for Kids Grab a ca phe sua da and let the kids run loose in the small sand park

best of

Sightseeing and postcard sending – the Central Post Office (p. 15) is a two-in-one attraction.

& cafe behind the Reunification Palace (p.16). Kids can pull up a plastic chair and listen to some free live music most every Sunday at 8am in front of The Opera House (p.7 Cong Truong Lam Son, D.1). Pop into L’Usine (p.57) afterwards for breakfast. Side-by-side restaurants, Propaganda (p.51) & Au Parc (23 Han Thuyen, D.1), have an extensive kids’ menu as well as a dedicated 3rd floor play zone.

things to SEE

Best Historical Sights

Bama Kids Cafe (41 No. 41 St., Thao Dien, D.2) is unlike other typical noisy play centres. Tranquil colours and good food make this a great space for kids under 6. Best by Night Since you can’t go in, you should see City Hall (p. 17) when it’s most imposing: sparkling when the sun goes down. The Saigon Opera House’s flamboyant style is naturally most impressive at night. See a show! Ben Thanh Market (p. 18) morphs into a street market after 6pm. Best at Sunset Ritzy drinks and a sunset view? Head to Chill Skybar (p. 63). Have a cocktail at The Deck (p. 66) at around 6pm and you’ll be rewarded with gorgeous sundown river vistas. Have your sundowner the Quiet American way on Majestic Hotel’s (1 Dong Khoi, D.1) rooftop. saigon

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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht best of

Best up in the Sky Look down on the city from its tallest tower. Chill Sky Bar (p. 63) also has a top-notch food menu! Ask for a table with a view at Sorae (76A Le Lai, D.1) and you’ll have something to talk about during dinner. Dance the night away next to majestic views at the perfectly located Social Club - Hotel des Arts (p. 70). Best for the Photo Album

Covered under tropical trees, Tao Dan Park’s (p. 23) provides true peace. Best enjoyed in the early morning. Best Points of Retreat When you find yourself downtown, take a rest on the veranda of Jamia Al Muslimin Mosque (p. 21). Tan Xa Palace (180 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.3), Saigon’s oldest building, oozes history and calms the senses.

Nguyen Hue (p. 17) typifies the wholesome weekend nightlife of many Saigonese – and boasts the City Hall as a stunning backdrop.

Escape Saigon’s bustling streets at Ngoi Nha So 7 (7 Ngo Thoi Nhiem. D.3). Soothing and authentic cafe.

Take in the spiritual life and smell the smoke of incense at Thien Hau Pagoda (710 Nguyen Trai, D.5). Take a picture of the ceiling!

Best out of Downtown

Go to Binh Tay Market (p. 31) early and impress friends at home with ‘no way you can carry that on a motorbike’ shots.

Ho Ban Nguyet Park (Tan Phu, D.7) shows that Saigon is a multifaceted city: enjoy an almost-Singaporean retreat!

Best Local Tip

Best Local Tip

The Thu Thiem Bridge linking Binh Thanh District and District 2 boasts stunning views of the Saigon skyline. Drive across after some dinner in District 2.

The Buu Long Temple (81 Nguyen Xien, District 9) is a beauty of a pagoda and a sanctuary of peace. Stop by this gorgeous mix of Vietnamese, Thai and Myanmar traditions on your way to the Ao Dai Museum (p. 32).

Best Central Green Spots Go for the zoo, but stay for the Botanical Gardens (p. 23). Central Saigon’s greenest spot! The gardens of the Reunification 36

Palace (p. 16) are perfect for a late afternoon stroll.

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Lush and local and only 30 minutes from the centre – Binh Quoi (p. 54) feels like the countryside!

Get an unusual history lesson at 287/70 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.3. The caretaker will gladly show you the Former Northern Vietnamese Hideaway in the cellar for a small tip.

EAT

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things to SEE

where to

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w EE here S ottosgEAT n i ht

Restaurant Price Guide (per meal) $ - up to VND199,000

$$ - VND200,000-499,000

$$$ - VND500,000 & above

local

Southern cuisine relies heavily on spices, herbs and fresh vegetables. If you want to sample the whole range of local specialities, head to the food court at Saigon’s new underground Sense Market at 23/9 Park (4 Pham Ngu Lao, D.1) on Pham Ngu Lao Street or the newly opened Food Street (Nguyen Van Chiem, D.1)! Banh Mi

Yes, this is the local take on a submarine sandwich, but brought to flavoursome perfection by the ingenious mix of pâté, pickled veggies, sliced cucumber, cilantro leaves, soy sauce, chili and of course the meat of your choice. We recommend grilled (Banh Mi Thit) or roasted pork (Banh Mi Heo Quay). Price on the Street: VND15,000 Where to Try It: Banh Mi Huynh Hoa, 26 Le Thi Rieng, D.1; Banh Mi Ngoc Xuyen, 41 Tran Quoc Toan, D.3

Banh Xeo

These savoury pancakes are made with flour, egg and salt, then fried. They come stuffed with pork, vegetables and prawns with a side of herbs and fish sauce. Price on the Street: VND40,000 Where to Try It: Banh Xeo 46A, 46 Dinh Cong Trang, D.1

Bun Mam

A rather pungent vermicelli noodle soup made with everything but the kitchen sink thrown in. It includes shrimp paste, aubergine, squid and more. Price on the Street: VND35,000 Where to Try It: Bun Mam Nem Co No, 19/13 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.1

Local insight: Most street restaurants offer chopped lemon. Use it to clean your chopsticks and spoon before eating. 38

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things to EAT where SEE local

Bun Thit Nuong

Hu Tieu

This dish is made of vermicelli noodles topped with fresh greens, peanuts and grilled pork. Some suppliers will even throw in a fried spring roll.

Long, thin rice noodles are served with ground pork, shrimp and fish. The common elements of celery and sauteed garlic help to maintain the distinctive taste.

Price on the Street: VND35,000 Where to Try It: Food Stall, Corner of Le Loi & Nguyen Trung Truc, D.1

Price on the Street: VND40,000 Where to Try It: Hu Tieu Nam Vang Nhan Quan, A67 Nguyen Trai, D.1

Com Tam

Pho

Literally translated as “broken rice”, this hearty dish is served for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It comes with many different meat options but the most common is a delicious barbecued pork chop, marinated in sugar and fish sauce. Price on the Street: VND30,000 Where to Try It: Bui Sai Gon food stall, 100 Thach Thi Thanh, D.1; Com Tam Tu Quy, Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Huu Cau, Binh Thanh D.

Traditionally, pho consists of beef broth, the distinctive broad rice noodles, herbs and meat, but there’s also a chicken and even vegetarian version of it. The real deal is Pho Tai with thinly sliced rare beef that is cooked straight in the bowl. Price on the Street: VND40,000 Where to Try It: Pho Hoa, 260C Pasteur, D.3; Pho Le, 413-415 Nguyen Trai, D.5/303-304 Vo Van Tan, D.3 saigon

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w EE here S ottosgEAT n i ht local

Northern Vs. Central Vs. Southern Food

Geography plays an important role in Vietnamese cuisine because the climate and the tradition affect the availability of certain ingredients and spices, and thus the cooking style within each region. The flavours of Northern food are usually light and balanced, and the most used ingredients are those made from rice. In mountainous areas, where the climate can be cooler, cooking methods like stewing are popular. People in the central region cook with a lot of chillies and they have many kinds of mam (sauce or paste made from fermented fish, shrimp, squid, crab…). The warm weather and fertile soil of Southern Vietnam create an ideal condition for growing a greater variety of produce. As a result, the flavours used are more diverse than in the North. Soy sauce and sugar are added to food in the South more than in other regions. Desserts are also more popular in the South. Street Snacks & Beer

Vietnam is the number-one beer consumer in Southeast Asia. How do they do it? They put ice in their beer, fair enough, but most of all: drinking always goes together with eating! If you want to try out the concept without the street food hazard, we recommend barbecue at 5ku (p. 50). The Vietnamese delicacy of choice for eating-whiledrinking is oc or snails. Be warned: it’s a messy business. The daring venture to District 4, central Saigon’s most Vietnamese district, and seek out Vinh Khanh Street. It’s an electrifying experience at night with tons of seafood restaurants crammed one next to the other, all chock-full with locals. Get your hands dirty at famous Oc Oanh (534 Vinh Khanh Street), but remember to bring a Vietnamese speaker: no English spoken here.

things to EAT where SEE local

Cuc Gach Quan Family Restaurant

Mountain Retreat $$

Peaceful setting in a French colonial house on the outskirts of D.1 (15 minutes from Ben Thanh Market). The simple presentation is a little bit at odds with the high prices but the taste is great. 10 Dang Tat, D.1 $-$$

Visiting a friend in Saigon? They’re likely to bring you here for dinner. Secret Garden offers consistently good Vietnamese fare with a modern touch in a "hidden" rooftop garden. Book a table, this place is popular! Top Floor, 158 Pasteur, D.1

$-$$

Same owners and same concept as Secret Garden, but with a more impressive city view and a slightly more traditional, Northern-style Vietnamese menu. Here too, the unpretentious setting is a draw. Decent wine list. 36 Le Loi, D.1

Secret Garden Rooftop Restaurant

Rooftop Restaurant

Hum - Vegetarian

$-$$$

Whether or not you’re a vegetarian you’ll love their delightfully prepared Vietnamese recipes. Choose one of their three tranquil locations. 32 Vo Van Tan, D.3, 2 Thi Sach, D.1, 32 D10 Street, D.2 saigon

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w EE here S ottosgEAT n i ht

Where to Eat Halal/Vegetarian/Vegan

local/international

Vietnam is heaven for foodies. But admittedly, it is a country of meat and seafood lovers. One or often both of them are literally in all Vietnamese signature dishes. But fear not: there’s religion. Most Buddhists eat vegan every 1st and 15th of each lunar month. Hence there’s a need for vegetarian and vegan food! And Halal meat? Cosmopolitan Saigon doesn’t let you down. Vegetarian/Vegan

There’s no better and more atmospheric vegetarian and vegan fine dining in Saigon than at Hum (p. 41). Period. Stroll around lower District 3, close to the War Remnants Museum (p. 29) and further west, to find some lovely hidden vegetarian/vegan eateries, such as yogi-style Prem Bistro and Café (204 Nguyen Dinh Chieu), down-to-earth Mani (291/2 Vo Van Tan) or strictly organic BioGarten (155A Nam Ki Khoi Nghia). Those not afraid of street food slurp one of the best vegetarian pho in town at Pho Chay Nhu (54 Truong Quyen, D.3). Loud and colourful, that is, authentically Vietnamese Loving Hut (38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D.1) and far-off insider tip Here and Now (89E Nguyen Cong Hoa, Phu Nhuan D.) are other great options. If you’re into Indian food, nothing beats Tandoor (p. 43). Halal

The percentage of Muslim Vietnamese is rather slender. So Indian and Malay food is your best bet. For Indian Halal food, choose Tandoor (see above) or Baba’s Kitchen (164 Bui Vien, D.1). Get your Malaysian and Singaporean Halal fare in a casual setting at Kampung Pandan Restaurant (53 Thu Khoa Huan, D.1). They also serve Halal versions of Vietnamese dishes, just like The Daun (194 Le Thanh Ton, D.1), unarguably the best place to try Halal pho in Saigon! For some street cred, have your morning pho at Pho Muslim (505 Tran Hung Dao, D.1). 42

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things to EAT where SEE

Tandoor - Halal Indian

$-$$

A sophisticated venue right off the Nguyen Hue walking street, Tandoor boasts a welcoming staff and delicious foods. Specialising in halal food from Northern India and clay-oven-cooked kebabs, they also offer Southern Indian cuisine and one of the largest selections of vegetarian options in the city.

international

39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke, D.1 028 3930 4839 10:00am-11:00pm tandoorvietnam.com

Local insight: Looking for a filling meal? Try the Tandoori Grill, which includes chicken, paneer, seabass and mutton grilled in a tandoor oven. Why’s My Steak So Expensive?

Meat in Vietnam is actually spectacularly cheap. That’s how $1 street lunches become profitable. However, go to a local wet market and you’ll see why: the processing of the meat does not quite live up to international standards. Cold chain? Never heard of it. At best, you kill the animal, you cut the meat up, you cook it and you eat it. Upscale restaurants have a simple reaction to this: they import their meat. So your juicy rib-eye steak is indeed imported from Australia, the US or Japan, where meat is properly stored, hung and dry-aged to make it tender and flavourful as it lies there on your plate. The price you pay for this quality is… well… high: international rates plus shipping cost plus import taxes. So don’t do like the Vietnamese and order your steak well-done. You’d spoil the extra value you paid for. The prime location for a prime cut of beef is the New York Steakhouse (25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.1). Perfectly cooked everytime. Or for a culinary journey head to Prime XXI (33 Le Duan, D.1). Here you can choose not only your cut of meat but also the type of salt and sauces to go with it. saigon

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w EE here S ottosgEAT n i ht international

Best Place for a Business Lunch

Sorae (76A Le Lai, D.1) is a highend Japanese restaurant located on the 24th and 25th floor of AB Tower in District 1. The restaurant also comes with Japanese-themed private rooms for more intimacy. With 3 outlets across Saigon, including a brand new location on Le Thanh Ton, L’Usine (p. 57) is a high-concept establishment and a popular spot for those working out of home and of course, Westernstyle business lunches due to its quiet ambience and abundance of natural light. Housed in what was once an opium factory in District 1, The Refinery (74 Hai Ba Trung) has a classic 44

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interior with a large front terrace and high-quality Western fare on offer. Located in District 1, The Racha Room (p. 54) is a sophisticated restaurant that serves reinventions of PanAsian street and hawker specialties. Featuring copious set-lunch specials, this is an ideal place for productive discussions. For vegetarians who love Vietnamese food, the best option is Hum (p. 41). With three branches across the city, the branch in District 1 is perfect for business lunches as the garden themed venue, both peaceful and inviting, makes it a conducive environment. La Villa (p. 47) in District 2 is ideal for the client that you want to impress. The tranquil environment and world-class food make this the perfect location to close a deal.

things to EAT where SEE international

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w EE here S ottosgEAT n i ht international

Chinese Dumplings For lovers of Chinese cuisine, and especially dumplings, there are a few places in Saigon where you can have your fix of extremely juicy xiao long bao. Ngan Dinh Restaurant (p. 46), located on the fifth floor of Windsor Plaza Hotel in Chinatown, serves authentic Cantonese cuisine and their dumplings are top notch. Another restaurant to check out is Dim Tu Tac (5 Nguyen Tat Thanh) at District 4, just beside Saigon Port. The restaurant has a nice ambience and their dumplings are great. Other notable restaurants are Dynasty (New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D.1), located at the ground floor of New World Saigon Hotel, which also hosts buffet specials, Sheraton Hotel’s in-house Li Bai Restaurant (88 Dong Khoi, D.1) and San Fu Lou 46

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(p.46) with several locations across the city. On Sunday nights, try The Racha Room’s dumpling special (12 Mac Thi Buoi, D.1). Phat’s Dumplings (111 Xuan Thuy, D.2, 44 Dong Du, D.1) is an excellent choice as well. Ngan Dinh - Cantonese

$$

Dim sum is best had in Chinatown (p. 30), and this is the premier restaurant for it. At Windsor Plaza Hotel. 18 An Duong Vuong, D.5

San Fu Lou - Cantonese

$$-$$$$

The food at this late night Cantonese favourite is given superb balance because of the freshness of the ingredients and the contrast of flavours and textures. Ground Floor, 76A Le Lai, D.1; 195-197 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan; 101 Ton Dat Tien, D.7; 24 Ba Thang Hai, D.10.

things to EAT where SEE

La Villa - French

$$$

This tucked-away restaurant offers Michelin-quality French cuisine in a beautiful colonial-style villa. Dine in the serene courtyard or refined interior, served by experienced and polite waiters. Twenty minutes from the city centre, La Villa is the perfect choice for guests who are looking for true fine dining.

international

14 Ngo Quang Huy, D.2 028 3898 2082 Mon-Sat 11:45am-1:30pm last order & 6:30pm-9:30pm last order lavilla-restaurant.com.vn

Local insight: Try their Cheese Trolley, French Blue Lobster or The Seasonal Chef Menu. Le Corto - French $$$ A modern, high-end restaurant offering a large selection of fine French cuisines and an impressive international wine list. Try their excellent set-menus for a lunch that you won't soon forget. 5D Nguyen Sieu, D.1

L'Escale - French $$$ This restaurant is all about exquisite French cuisine created by Michelin-starred chef Thierry Drapeau. 90 Quoc Huong, D.2

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Kobe Teppanyaki - Japanese

$$-$$$

This is Saigon’s first restaurant specialising in famous Japanese teppanyaki and premium A5 Kobe beef. Teppan meaning "table" and Yaki meaning "grilled", the chefs at Kobe know how to put on a show. The staff here takes you through an authentically Japanese dining adventure.

international

13A Tu Xuong, D.3 10:00am-10:00pm

028 3932 0187 - 028 3932 0189 sales.teppankobe@gmail.com

Local insight: Kobe Teppanyaki offers The Tursan Red Wine from 3-star Michelin Chef Michel Guerard, best matched with imported A5 Kobe beef. Little Tokyo Saigon is host to a sizeable population of Japanese expats and it’s no surprise that there is a section of the city dedicated to them. Just like Chinatown in D.5 (p. 30) and Koreatown in D.7 (p. 34), the Japanese have their own Little Tokyo right in the heart of D.1, along a stretch of Le Thanh Ton Street. As you enter 15B Le Thanh Ton, you will be greeted by a little maze right in front of you featuring a whole range of sushi bars, ramen restaurants, izakaya bars, Japanese hostess bars and the likes, there are also a number of massage parlours which tend to get “popular” after the sun sets. Some notable establishments in the area would be Gyoza No Teiou (15/7 Le Thanh Ton) and Sushi World Buffet (15/1 Le Thanh Ton) and outside the little quarter, just a short walk away, there’s Pizza 4P’s if you don't feel like Japanese food. Pizza 4P’s - Pizza & Pasta

$$-$$$

This Japanese-owned pizzeria has homemade cheeses. Heavenly burrata pizzas. Also, try the four cheese pizza with honey. 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, D.1 / 8 Thu Khoa Huan, D.1 / 151 Hai Ba Trung, D.3 48

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things to EAT where SEE international

The Sushi Bar - Japanese

$$-$$$

Enter The Sushi Bar and you’ll feel you have been transported to Japan. The sushi is made with fresh fish and there is a dizzying selection to choose from. The house special Sushi Bar Roll is a treat with no less than nine ingredients. Pair your sushi with sake or opt for green tea for authenticity. 179B Hai Ba Trung, D.1 - 028 3823 8042 1st Floor, Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, D.1 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.1 2nd Floor, Saigon Court, 149 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.3 Ground Floor, Capri Residence, Lot C6B-02-2, D.7 Hikari, Ly Thai To, Binh Duong New City, Binh Duong Lot 3-A5.6, Bac Tuong Dai, Hai Chau D., Da Nang 11:00am-11:30pm (last order: 11:00pm) Reservation & Delivery Hotline 028 3911 8818 / 028 3911 8618

Local insight: Grab a seat at the bar to watch them prepare your dishes in front of you. saigon

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Vietnamese Restaurants 5ku - Vietnamese Barbecue

$-$$

When in Rome‌ drink beers and eat barbecue on little wooden chairs! Always busy thanks to its great food. Prepare to sweat a little. 29 Thai Van Lung, D.1

further suggestions

Bep Me In - Traditional

$-$$

Good place to get to know traditional Vietnamese dishes, with a rustic ambience to match. Service is excellent. 136/9 Le Thanh Ton, D.1

Di Mai - Traditional

$$-$$$

Head to the base of Ben Thanh Tower for a feast in a vintage-nostalgic atmosphere. Di Mai translates to Aunty Mai, the perfect name for the home-cooking style of this restaurant. 136 Le Thi Hong Gam, D.1

Bun Rieu Nha - Traditional

$$

Step away from that bowl of pho and try something new. Bun Rieu Nha will serve you up a steaming bowl of rice vermicelli noodle soup with whole freshwater crabs for an excellent price. 93 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D.1

Hoi An Sense - Traditional

$-$$

If you are looking for a glamorous restaurant with traditional but gourmet Vietnamese recipes, look no further. Don’t miss their live dance and music performances. Rooftop 12 Phan Ke Binh, D.1

Quan Bui - Family Restaurant

$-$$

Authentic Vietnamese cuisine at reasonable, though not cheap prices. Three restaurants across the city. 17A Ngo Van Nam, D.1 / 39 Ly Tu Trong, D.1 / 55A-55B Ngo Quang Huy, D.2 50

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things to EAT where SEE further suggestions

Vietnam House Restaurant Fine Dining

$$-$$$

The decor in this two floor fine dining venue is best described as grandiose. Vietnamese classics refined with international ingredients. Never tried pigeon? Now’s your chance! 93-95-97 Dong Khoi, D.1

AnAn Saigon - Modern

$$

Banh xeo taco? Snail Pizza? Vietnamese dishes have gone internationally here – and it’s delicious! Contemporary decoration. 89 Ton That Dam, D.1

Noir - Modern

$$-$$$

Start by choosing a Vietnamese or Western menu and then dine in the

dark! Blind waiters will guide you through this memorable experience in taste. Perfect for a romantic evening 180D, Hem 178 Hai Ba Trung, D.1

Propaganda - Modern

$-$$

Vietnamese classics with a modern twist. Propaganda art on the wall. Taste their bun thit nuong. 21 Han Thuyen, D.1

Wrap & Roll - Modern

$

Several branches across the city. Pick the classics from the menu or create your own delicious rolls. Do it yourself fun! 62 Hai Ba Trung, D.1 / 11 Huynh Thuc Khang, D.1 saigon

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International Restaurants May Restaurant - International $$ A warm, welcoming staff and great food make this ambient restaurant a lovely place for dinner or drinks.

further suggestions

56-58 Bui Thi Xuan, D.1

Mekong Merchant - International $$ One of the first upmarket restaurants in D.2. Locally sourced food and a great outdoor seating space in the courtyard. Casual vibe. 23 Thao Dien, D.2

The Elbow Room - International $$ Big portions for big appetites. Hearty portions of burgers, pasta and pizzas. Try the Lumberjack Breakfast to start off your day right. 52 Pasteur, D.1

Q.itchen Factory - International $$ In the middle of D.7, this restaurant offers masterfully cooked Vietnamese tapas in an ultra-modern, openkitchen dining layout. Lot 9, Road 7, Tan Thuan Dong, D.7

Trois Gourmands - French $ $ $ Upscale French food in a Parisian bistro. Book a table on the terrasse and enjoy their homemade cheese. 39 Tran Ngoc Dien, D.2

Al Sham - Syrian $ You wouldn’t expect to find a Syrian restaurant in the centre of Saigon but Al Sham is the real deal. Fantastic bread and hummus. 300 Vo Van Kiet, D.1 52

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BENARAS - Indian $-$$ Healthy and gourmet Indian food in a comfortable setting. Try their street food menu for some Punjabi dishes that will delight your palate. 5A Nguyen Sieu, D.1

Ciao Bella - Italian $$ Centrally located Italian favourite with a warm atmosphere. Good wine list. Pick a pasta dish! 11 Dong Du, D.1

NAMO Tuscan Grill - Italian $$-$$$ More contemporary and less cosy than others in the city. Upscale prices that match the location. Good food though! 146-148 Pasteur, D.1

Pendolasco - Italian $-$$ An award-winning pizza chef combined with lush garden seating. Your best choice if you’re looking for an Italian trattoria ambience. 30 Tong Huu Dinh, D.2

Snap Café - Family Restaurant $-$$ A huge outdoor space with a playground, a pool table and several shops. Burger Day with two free drinks on Wednesdays! 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, D.2

Au Lac do Brazil

Churrascaria Barbeque

$$

A traditional all-you-can-eat Brazilian-style barbecue restaurant – go there hungry! 238 Pasteur, D.3

11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, D.1

Sorae Restaurant & Lounge

168 Vo Van Kiet, D.1 $

For a refreshing treat on a hot Saigon day, seek out Greenie Scoop’s Italian gelato. You can have your pick of 18 fruity flavours, including strawberry, coconut, melon, ginger, durian and even calamansi. Plus, each scoop is 100% naturally produced, and no chemicals are added! 52 Ngo Duc Ke, D.1

Gyumaru Hamburg & Steak Burgers $$ Japanese-style burger restaurant in Little Tokyo (p. 48). Don’t doubt their expertise! Excellent burgers. 8/3 Le Thanh Ton, D.1

MAD House - Steakhouse $$-$$$ Calls itself a steakhouse, but it’s best for breakfast on a weekend

$$-$$$

Top Japanese food served on top of Saigon. Ask for a table by the window! Smokers should also check out their Cigar Club. AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, D.1

Sushi Ko - Sushi $ Local residents love this place since the quality is good and the prices sensationally cheap. Look for an extremely non-descript building down a side-street in D.4.

further suggestions

$$

Widely recognised as the best BBQ in town, this restaurant celebrates everything meaty and delicious. The meals come with local craft beers from the top local brands. Greenie Scoop - Ice-Cream

6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, D.2

Japanese

Quan Ut Ut Barbeque, Burgers, Beer

morning. Beautiful garden setting with a pen filled with real live bunnies. Great for children.

things to EAT where SEE

Arirang BBQ - Korean $$-$$$ Korea is the home of barbecue in Asia. Arirang BBQ’s meat selection is excellent and the side dishes are delicious and plentiful.

122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, D.4 / 26/1 Le Thanh Ton

Yen Sake & Sushi - Japanese $$-$$$ One of the city's best Japanese restaurants with sushi and sashimi imported from Japan. Pair their excellent oysters with a bottle of sake. 92 Nam Ki Khoi Nghia, D.1; 8 Dong Khoi, D.1; 15A Le Quy Don, D.3; 123 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D.3; 185 Nguyen Duc Canh, D.7

TukTuk Thai Bistro - Thai $-$$ Best Thai restaurant in the city, with good service and sleek interior designs. The yellow curry with crispy egg noodles never disappoints. 17/11 Le Thanh Ton, D.1 / 38 Ly Tu Trong, D.1 saigon

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Sunday Specials Sunday Dumplings at The Racha Room

$$-$$$

special offers

The Racha Room is a sleek bar and restaurant that offers Pan-Asian cuisine. While you get 50% off their cocktails during happy hour from Monday to Saturday, 5pm to 8pm, the real deal is their food special on Sundays: a plateful of any kind of dumplings for a mere VND60,000! Every Sunday from 4pm to 12am 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, D.1

Sunday Brunch at InterContinental

$$$

Quite frankly, those in the know do the Sunday brunch at InterContinental Saigon (p. 89). Their in-house restaurant Market 39 has an amazing weekly spread with free-flowing champagne. Best to concentrate on the seafood, and leave some space for the chocolate mountain! They also have a live band. Every Sunday from 12pm to 3pm Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D.1

Binh Quoi 1 - Vietnamese Buffet $$ Vietnamese food, even in just a single region, is so varied that it’s often hard to make a choice. If you want to sample the Southern specialities, head out to rural Binh Quoi 1 (p. 108) on Friday to Sunday afternoon for an extensive buffet in a lush oasis. Here, you’ll get it all at once, from spring rolls to sweet soup, and it is the perfect family destination, just half an hour away from bustling downtown Saigon! Binh Quoi 1 Tourist Village Fri-Sun 5:00pm & Sun 11:00am VND270,000 (adults), VND150,000 (children)

Binh Quoi 2 - Vietnamese Buffet $$ On Saturdays and Sundays, you can sample an extensive seafood buffet. Hours and prices are the same as Binh Quoi 1. 1147 Binh Quoi Street, Binh Thanh D. 54

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where to

DRINK

saigon

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where E E StooDRINK t s g n i ht

Clubs, Bars & Cafés Price Guide (per drink) $ - up to VND99,000

$$ - VND100,000-199,000

$$$ - VND200,000 & above

coffee

Coffee Culture in Saigon Coffee was introduced to Vietnam in 1857 by the French but only began to develop as a major agricultural export following the American War. Production skyrocketed at the end of the 20th century and today, Vietnam is the second-largest global exporter of Robusta and Arabica beans after Brazil. Vietnamese ca phe, enjoyed black or with condensed milk, is something that every traveller must try at least once. The classic is ca phe sua da: iced milk coffee. Roasted in butter and sometimes fish-sauce, Vietnamese coffee is thicker and sweeter than what you’re probably used to. Grab a coffee to go in a plastic cup, or join local women on their lawn chairs drinking it from glass mugs. Where Vietnamese Drink Their Coffee One thing that Saigonese are proud of is the diversity of their city’s coffee shops. There is a café for everyone and every style. Middle-aged and older locals love to sit in sidewalk coffee shops with newspapers in their hands to start a day. Young people gather in the areas around the Notre Dame Cathedral (p. 15) for ca phe bet (literally ‘coffee on the flat ground’) or flock to independent coffee shops like Thuc Coffee (try 182 Pasteur, D.1) and Sai Gon Oi (42 Nguyen Hue, D.1) to enjoy the good coffee and free, fast Wi-Fi. Fancier coffee shops like Trung Nguyen Coffee (try 7 Nguyen Van Chiem, D.1) – the Vietnamese equivalent of Starbucks with a chain of cafés spread across the city – are popular among teenagers who come not only for coffee but also to socialise. For specialty coffee, people head to high-end coffee bars like L’Usine (p. 57) or Cafe RuNam (p.57).

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things to DRINK where SEE coffee

Cafe RuNam - Coffee House

$-$$

Upscale café with several branches across the city. For a more glamorous experience try RuNam d’Or in D.1.

The Loft - Café $

A coffee shop with just the right amount of vintage style. Try their marinated rice paper salad with beef jerky and a coconut and calamansi juice to change things up. First floor, 2 Dong Khoi, D.1

Mockingbird Café - Local

$

Probably the most popular indie café among expats. On the 4th floor of a ramshackle apartment building. 4th floor, 14 Ton That Dam, D.1

Ngoi Nha So 7 - Local

$

A student favourite, hidden in a rundown colonial villa. 7 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D.3

$$

Cosy ambience. Try to find a table on the terrasse to look down on Dong Khoi Street. 223/2K Pham Viet Chanh, D.1

Bistro: 202 Pasteur, D.3/ Café: 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D.1/d’Or: 3 Cong Xa Paris, D.1

Ca Phe Co Ba - Coffee House

The 1985 Café - Japanese-Inspired

$-$$

A relaxed place for a coffee on the 1st floor of one of D.1’s hip apartment buildings. 26 Ly Tu Trong, D.1

The Workshop - Café $$ International drinks and food in a coworking space environment. Centrally located with a separate meeting room that can be privatised. 27 Ngo Duc Ke, D.1

L’Usine - Coffee / Shopping

$-$$

The epicentre of Saigon's coffee shop scene. They serve Lavazza coffee! Their three locations are also known for their indie-cool shopping and great food. 151 Dong Khoi/ 70B Le Loi/ 19 Le Thanh Ton, D.1 saigon

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where E E StooDRINK t s g n i ht craft beer

Saigon’s Craft Beer Scene We certainly wouldn’t have written this five years ago, but recently the craft beer scene has exploded in Saigon. The credit for this rapid proliferation must go to the brewmasters who have put their skills to the test. Pasteur Street Brewing Company (p. 60) is undoubtedly the granddaddy of craft brewing in Saigon, and should be your first beer destination. These dedicated brewmasters have several awards under their belt, including a World Beer Cup award for their Imperial Chocolate Stout. We also recommend the Passion Fruit Wheat Ale. 58

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Winking Seal Beer Company (50 Dang Thi Nhu, D.1) is another fixture in the craft beer community, and with good reason, thanks to exquisite beauties like the summery Mekong Mashup ale and the hopinfused IPA. In the 6 months since it opened, East West Brewery (p. 59) has made a huge impact in Saigon's craft beer scene. Try a beer tour to see how the almighty brew is made. Honourable mentions definitely go to Belgo (p. 60), Tê Tê Craft Beer and Fuzzy Logic Brewing – to be tried at BiaCraft (p. 60) – and Heart of Darkness (p. 60), where great beer comes with great pizza.

things to DRINK where SEE craft beer

East West Brewing Co. - Craft Beer In the heart of District 1 just one block away from Ben Thanh Market sits one of the most formidable entries to Saigon’s craft beer scene, East West Brewing Co. Since 2017, the microbrewery has offered a selection of craft brews including a wide variety of classic craft beer styles, some of which use local ingredients. The brewery’s event portfolio is what make this a standout venue, whether it be Keg’s N’ Eggs Sunday Brunches or Brewery Tours throughout the week. With the brewery’s homemade food and superior service, you can’t miss this place. 181 - 185 Ly Tu Trong, D.1 091 306 0728 Sun-Wed 11:0am-12:00am Thu-Sat 11:00am-1:00am eastwestbrewing.vn booking@eastwestbrewing.vn

Local insight: Still feeling your Saturday night on Sunday morning? Recharge with the brewery’s bottomless craft beer brunch. Eat and drink to your heart’s content. saigon

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Pasteur Street Brewing Company - Craft Beer $-$$ Since it opened in early 2015, Pasteur Street Brewing Company has become the premier venue for craft beer in Saigon. Enjoy their unique brews such as the 2016 World Beer Cup Winner Cyclo Imperial Chocolate Stout. Don't forget to check out the rooftop terrace of their Hem Taproom!

craft beer

144 Pasteur, D.1 028 3823 9562 11:00am–11:00pm pasteurstreet.com cheers@pasteurstreet.com

Local insight: Get their Sampling Flight with 175ml glasses of six different beers to find your personal favourite. BiaCraft - Craft Beer

$-$$

After-work go-to place in their D.3 location. They have beers from all major craft brewers. Perfect for a comprehensive beer tasting! 1 Le Ngo Cat, D.3 / 90 Xuan Thuy, D.2

Belgo - Craft Beer

$$

Belgian beer expertise in upper D.1. Convivial atmosphere and great hearty food. Ask for their in-house brews! 159A Nguyen Van Thu, D.1

Heart of Darkness - Craft Beer

$-$$

Cosy D.1 location, despite the name. Their quality beer creations come with food from Pizza 4P’s (p. 48). 31D Ly Tu Trong, D.1

Local insight: One essential factor of local beer drinking culture is the idea of drinking together. The local version of “cheers” is “dzo”, and often follows a countdown of “1, 2, 3...” or in Vietnamese “moột, hai, ba…dzo!” The first Vietnamese phrase that most travellers will learn, and one that fills the city’s backpacker strip every night. Go local at Saigon Xua va Nay (37 Nguyen Trung Truc, D.1) 60

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things to DRINK where SEE bars/lounges

Catwalk - Club / Karaoke

$$-$$$

Catwalk is hosted by the International Tourist Club (ITC), conveniently located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City in the annex wing of New World Saigon Hotel. Opened in 1995, this modern nightlife centre spans three floors, and features a live band and DJ zone, 14 private karaoke rooms, a karaoke bar and a great lounge area to round off your evening. Looking to organise a social or business party? A graduation or holiday party? Catwalk has something for everyone. Come enjoy your favourite cocktails and sing your heart out at Ho Chi Minh City’s premier nightspot. International Tourist Club, 76 Le Lai, D.1 7:30pm-2:00am 028 3824 3760 itclubsaigon.com.vn

Local insight: Jam out to Catwalk’s DJ beats or their live bands, who play international music in a variety of languages. saigon

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where E E StooDRINK t s g n i ht bars/lounges

Saigon’s Rooftop Bar Frenzy Saigon loves its sky-high emporiums of lounge seating and premium cocktails. These are the places to see and be seen, while perched high above Saigon’s restless street life.

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D.1). Good news is: you can always join the party next door at MGallery Social Club (63).

For the ritzy of the ritziest, there’s no beating Chill Skybar (p. 63). Cocktails and vistas are equally top-of-the-range.

Those who want to delve into Saigon’s rooftop underground culture (yes, it does exist) can do so at hidden Mary Jane’s The Bar (85 Nguyen Huu Cau, D.1). Take the elevator to the top floor, then walk up the stairs. Note: nomen est omen here.

A more mature location perfect for people who might want to enjoy a cappuccino instead of a cocktail lies in Shri (72 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,

Sky XX is the best place to touch the sky with a well-crafted cocktail in your hand. Join the party at 33 Le Duan, D.1

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Broma: Not a Bar - Rooftop Bar

things to DRINK where SEE

$$

Hidden on the top floor of a random building. Finding it is half the fun. Ambience is great, the views only average. Good, but too loud music. 41 Nguyen Hue, D.1

Chill Skybar - Rooftop Bar

$$-$$$

bars/lounges

The city's original skybar is still the premier spot to mingle. International DJs often man the turntables. Be sure to try the house bartender’s spectacularly balanced cocktails. AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, D.1

Local insight: From 5:30pm to 8:00pm, happy hour drinks start at VND90,000 and snacks at VND70,000. Glow Skybar - Rooftop Bar

$$-$$$

This sophisticated D.1 rooftop bar is a favourite among the more glamorous expat crowd. Good music selection (EDM and house), attentive staff and amazing views of the city. 93 Nguyen Du, D.1

MGallery Social Club - Rooftop Bar

$$-$$$

Glitzy party location on top of the Hotel des Arts in D.1. Packed with well-to-do people dancing to pop music on weekends. 76-78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.1

OnTop Bar - Rooftop Bar

$$-$$$

At the Novotel Hotel in D.1. Usually rather tranquil, with a good drinks list and cheese selection. “Buy 1 Get 1 Free” happy hour from 5:30 to 8pm. 23A Tran Cao Van, D.1

Air 360 Sky Bar - Rooftop Bar

$

One of the top spots to have a drink in the open-air. Trendy house music and poolside dining complete the package. Ben Thanh Tower 136-138 Le Thi Hong Gam, D.1 saigon

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Best Places for a Date/Tinder

bars/lounges

But what happens when you match with that special someone and plans are made to bring your infatuation into the real world? Where best to start that first date? First, be warned: many bars and some coffee shops will simply be too loud to carry a conversation, even outside. Try these venues instead.

Dating has a new name in Saigon, and its name is Tinder. Almost ubiquitously used by anyone who’s single (and some who aren’t), the infamous dating app is pretty much de rigueur if you want to meet up with a local without using or listening to creepy pick-up lines in the bar.

Vung Oi Mo Ra (17 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D.3), tucked away on the first floor of a run-down French villa in a dead-end alleyway, is both a romantic and original cafe for a first date. Come early in the evening to have a drink before the regular live acoustic performances start. If a boutique lounge is more your style, check out Small Vacancy (178/4b Pasteur, D.1). It's a bit hidden away, and when you enter its like stepping into a posh gentleman's club. Snuffbox Lounge (first floor, 14 Ton That Dam, D.1) is another chic spot. This cosy, upscale, 1920s-themed place complete with smooth jazz and soul music sets just the right mood for a date. Or if you want to skip the talking, head straight to the party at Lush Bar (p.68) or Catwalk (p.61) for some get-to-know-you dancing. Local insight: It is customary for the man to invite and that Vietnamese, even on Tinder, are often genuinely out for love, not for hook-ups. 64

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things to DRINK where SEE bars/lounges

Care for a drink? You’ll find no shortage of options in HCMC, a city as famous for its beer gardens as for its rooftop bars. Saigon is the nightlife capital of Vietnam so regardless of whether you prefer to have a sip in a swanky riverside cocktail lounge or to cheer on your favourite team in a rowdy sports bar there’s something for everyone. Here are our top picks to quench your thirst. Cheers! Sports Bars and Pubs Phatty’s - Sports Bar

$-$$

A great place in D.1 for sports enthusiasts to catch the game on

any of their seven screens. Attentive service. 48 Ton That Thiep, D.1

The Dublin Gate - Irish Pub

$-$$

Best Irish pub in town, expensive but good food. Live music on weekends and a pool table in the back. 19 Thai Van Lung, D.1

Buddah Bar - Sports Bar Open in Thao Dien since 2011, the Buddah Bar has a following for its bar food and good drinks. 5 large screen TV’s show the latest sporting events. 7 Thao Dien, D.2 saigon

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Bars and Lounges

bars/lounges

Saigon Outcast - Outdoor Bar

Layla - Cocktail Bar

$-$$

An Australian-owned bar in D.1 with cool industrial design. Well-made drinks, good music selection, great venue! Check out their patio. 63 Dong Du, D.1 $-$$

Beyond doubt this is one of the must-do institutions in Saigon’s bar scene. Spacious, open-air indie setting, includes a climbing wall! 188 Nguyen Van Huong, D.2

Small Vacancy - Lounge/Restaurant

$$-$$$

Dining and drinks in a hidden location. Moody and intimate in the style of a vintage speak-easy. 178/4b Pasteur, D.1

The Deck Saigon Cocktail Bar / Restaurant

$$-$$$

Top spot for sundowners in D.2. Mingle with the in-crowd during happy hour from 4 to 7pm and relax with river views. 38 Nguyen U Di, D.2

Whiskey & Wares - Whisky Bar

$

It’s all in the name: the place to go for affordable, high-quality whiskey, liquors and craft beers. Laidback atmosphere near Bui Vien. 196 De Tham, D.1

Xu Restaurant Lounge - Cocktail Bar

$$

Great to get your night going with reasonably priced cocktails and booming music. Close to the opera in D.1. No shorts policy. 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D.1 66

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things to DRINK where SEE

Nightlife in the City

bars/lounges

Nightclubs in HCMC will please even the most demanding party-goers, though be prepared the music will be played at top volume. Trendy venues will not look very different from the places you could visit in Europe or the US. They will play the latest music, as well as the mainstream club hits. Prices are generally low: a cocktail rarely costs more than $10, even in trendy venues. Most nightclubs will close around 3am, but you can keep the party going until the early morning in several after-hours drinking holes. Considering the wide variety and diversity of bars and clubs spread across the city it’s never a difficult thing to find one that you like. Clubs Apocalypse Now - Night Club

$-$$

A Saigon nightlife classic with affordable prices. Go to the 2nd floor to avoid escort girls mixing in the crowd. 2B Thi Sach, D.1

Blanchy’s Tash - Dance Bar

$$

Classy, centrally located bar. Less conversation, more action. Ladies’ night with free drinks on Wednesdays! 95 Hai Ba Trung, D.1

Emergency Room - Afterhours Bar

$-$$

Less shady than it looks from the outside. Shots come in syringes and guests can play their own music. Fun in D.1! 59 Huynh Thuc Khang, D.1

Envy - Night Club

$$-$$$

This glamorous nightclub hosts spectacular light shows and acrobatic performances in its art-deco setting. 74-76 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D.1 saigon

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Lush Bar - Night Club $-$$ When you arrive at Lush, you know you've come to a party. At the cutting edge of Saigon nightlife for years, the stylish graphics, comfortable lounge seating and great variety of Western dance music is sure to offer something for everyone looking for an unforgettable night out.

night clubs

2 Ly Tu Trong, D.1 028 3910 4199 8:00pm to late lushsaigon

Local insight: Lush gets jumping on Ladies' Nights (Tuesdays) and now they are bringing on a new themed party with Latin Night on Thursdays. Piu Piu - Night Club

$-$$

Piu Piu has three different floors: a dance club (mostly hip hop), a pool bar and a rooftop with pop music. Come after 10pm. 97 Hai Ba Trung, D.1

Qui Lounge - Club Lounge

$$-$$$

Qui Lounge is a posh restaurant and bar that gets crowded on weekends thanks to great DJs. If you’re out in a group, order one of their huge “flowing bowl” party cocktails to share. 22 Le Thanh Ton, D.1

Local insight: Qui Lounge is located in the Japanese quarter (p. 48). Stroll through the alleys before partying! The Lighthouse - Night Club

$-$$

This is a rather recent addition to Saigon’s party scene. There are two floors and many different areas here to dance and relax. Prices are fair, cocktails are amazing and the DJs put on a wide range of tunes. Entrance is free before 10pm. 6th Floor, 104 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D.1

Local insight: It’s called The Lighthouse for a reason. Grab your drink and go up to the top! 68

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things to DRINK where SEE live music

Best Live Music Admittedly, Saigon isn’t the best city in the world for live music, but if you look hard enough, you can still find some good stuff. International acts don’t come to HCMC often – although this is changing – so your best bet is to see a local band or open mic night. Yoko Café (p. 70) in D.3 is the unofficial ruler of live music in the city. This venue hosts a bit of everything, so check their wellupdated Facebook page to see what’s on. Music at this hotspot ranges from reggae to jazz to punk, so it’s really a toss-up as to what you’ll get. Chances are it’ll be good, though! Hard Rock Café (p. 70), also in D.1, is another option for music lovers. Bands of all types hold court here in the newly renovated

and spacious lower level. Expect good prices on cocktails and beer 24-hours a day. Jazz lovers will be best served at SaxN’Art (28 Le Loi, D.1). Latin music also has a home in Saigon, thanks mainly to the efforts of two established nightspots: Cuba la Casa del Mojito (P. 70) in D.1 and Indika (p. 70) in the Da Kao neighbourhood of D.1. Both of these venues host latin nights -- the former much more loudly than the latter, which focuses on acoustic musical stylings. For crazier nights out with live entertainment, keep in mind that Chill Skybar (p. 63), Blanchy’s Tash (p. 67) and Lush (p. 68) all regularly embrace guest DJs and live performances. saigon

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Cuba la Casa del Mojito - Dance Bar

$$

If you feel like dancing to (mostly) live bands playing Latin rhythms combined with the city’s best mojitos, this is the place to go. 91 Pasteur, D.1

Hard Rock Café HCMC - Music Bar

$$

live music

Regular live music covering everything from rock to the hottest DJ's in town. The prices are surprisingly reasonable. Best snack? The Hard Rock Nachos. Located inside MPlaza Saigon. 39 Le Duan, D.1

Indika Saigon - Indie Bar

$

Another, more centrally located expat favourite in D.1. Cheap beer, graffiti on the walls, a chilled-out vibe and regular art/music events. 43 Nguyen Van Giai, D.1

Maxim’s - Live Music

$$-$$$

A restaurant during the day, Maxim’s turns into a fun, upper-class live music and ballroom dance club after 7pm. Founded in 1925! 13-15-17 Dong Khoi, D.1

Purple Jade - Live Music

$$-$$$

If you want somewhere to sip an expertly crafted cocktail while enjoying the occasional saxophone or piano performance, this place will delight you. InterContinental, Corner Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D.1

Social Club - Restaurant

$$$

Wine lovers should try the Wednesday night wine and cheese special at the Hotel des Arts. A live band plays jazz and pop standards. MGallery Saigon - 76-78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.3

Yoko Café - Live Music

$$-$$$

Experience alternative Vietnamese youth culture in D.3. Reasonably priced beers, friendly staff and local bands of different genres. 22 Nguyen Thi Dieu, D.3 70

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SHOP

saigon

things to SEE

where to

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Shopping Price Guide (per main item) $ - up to VND299,000

$$ - VND300,000-499,000

$$$ - VND500,000 & above

Porcelain & Ceramics

souvenirs

After Chinese rule, ceramics developed over time to become distinctly Vietnamese. Traditionally, cobalt blue and white are the most common colours, though there are others available. Prices vary with quality. A beautiful tea set and tray can start at VND250,000. Local insight: Nguyen Thong and Le Quy Don Streets, both in D.3, are famous for cheap and exquisite porcelain. Bargaining is expected and careful inspection is a must. Marble

Long held to be the most luxurious stone, souvenir shops now sell marble at fairly cheap, yet still overpriced rates – bargain and compare prices! Bamboo

Popular bamboo products include vases, trays and platters. Test the quality of the bamboo: there should not be any splinters. For design lovers, well-crafted trays can be found at Sadec District (p. 77). Buffalo Horn

A few Saigon-based jewellers work with buffalo horn. It is used in products like jewellery, eating utensils, pipes and hair decorations. They say that the horn contains the buffalo spirit, and the power is transferred to those who wear or use it. Collecting buffalo horn does not require the animals to be harmed or slaughtered. Try Duy Tan - Saigon Artisan (84 Le Loi, D.1). Local insight: Lighter shades of horn can cost up to three times the price of darker shades. 72

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things to SHOP where SEE souvenirs

Minh Long - Ceramics

$$-$$$

Centrally located, this is one of the largest porcelain showrooms in Southern Vietnam. It is a shopping paradise of porcelain products including tableware, jewellery and souvenirs with unique designs rich in Vietnamese culture. These designs mix national identity with exotic patterns and traditional daily life. Beautiful landscapes and historical monuments remind visitors of Vietnam’s origin. The work succeeds in bringing Vietnamese culture to the world, which is Minh Long’s declared mission. 17 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D.3 9:00am-9:00pm 028 3930 2634 4th Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D.1 10:00am-9:00pm 028 3821 8268 Minh Long also has multiple locations in Hanoi minhlong.com sales@minhlong.com

Local insight: Since 1970, Minh Long’s ceramics have spanned over four generations. saigon

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Couleurs by Réhahn Fine Art Photography

$$-$$$

Réhahn’s stunning fine art portraits and landscapes take us on a journey through the most beautiful and remote areas of Vietnam and the world. His work is highly sought after by collectors, making this gallery a must-see for any art lover. Prints are available for purchase in various mediums including postcards, coffee table books and high-quality, limited edition art prints. He also has a second gallery in the InterContinental Saigon. Floor 1, 151 Dong Khoi, D.1 08:30 - 21:30 saigon@couleurs.gallery 0868 894376 Couleurs by Réhahn Fine Art Photography www.couleurs.gallery

Local insight: Réhahn’s gallery is located in a charming and antiquated French-colonial building filled with artsy cafes and shops such as L’Usine. Don’t forget to explore further. 74

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things to SHOP where SEE

Mekong Quilts $$-$$$ Mekong Quilts is a social enterprise specializing in high quality, hand crafted quilts and accessories. The Indochine inspired quilts use patchwork, piecing and intricate stitch detail to create a contemporary aesthetic.

souvenirs

68 Le Loi, 1st floor, D.1 / 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem / 136 Tran Phu, Hoi An, Quang Nam mekongquilts.com sales.marketing@mekongquilts.com 9:00 – 18:30

Local Insight: The quilt you buy here supports jobs with fair wages and benefits for hundreds of Vietnamese women. Antiques

Le Cong Kieu Street is packed with more than 60 antique shops. Be aware that most goods are reproductions and keep your receipts for customs. Wood Carvings

A thriving craft, local wood is carved into trinkets, figurines and burl furniture. Find them at Authentique Home (p. 113 Le Thanh Ton. Q.1). Lacquerware

Vietnamese lacquerware is famous for its beauty and durability, and is applied to everything from tableware to furniture. Shop at Hanoia inside the Ao Dai House on 107 Dong Khoi, D.1. Local insight: Look for air bubbles in the lacquer, a sign of poor production quality. Lacquer Painting

Nowhere in the world is the diversity of lacquer arts more evident than in Vietnam, ranging from museum pieces to holiday ornaments. The 2,000-year-old art form combines the traditional Asian and European styles. Local insight: For the perfect piece, check Dong Khoi and Mac Thi Buoi Streets in D.1. saigon

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Contemporary Art

The limited number of contemporary art spaces in HCMC (p. 24) is slowly rising. Note that finding original pieces can be difficult, since there is a roaring trade in knock-offs, but the mostly hidden art scene still provides some stunning creations at low prices.

souvenirs

Local insight: Be sure to check out Galerie Quynh (p. 24) on 118 Nguyen Van Thu, D.1. Traditional Art

Vietnam’s local artisans produce stunningly ornate work, be it block prints, silk paintings or calligraphy. The ancient practice of embroidery has expanded to depict majestic landscapes, animals and traditional Vietnamese flowers. Local insight: Browse the shops around Dong Khoi and try XQ (106 Le Loi, D.1) for a vast selection of embroidery. Propaganda Art

In Vietnam, Propaganda Art truly came into its own during the American War. The socialist style now has a colourful retro feel and can be found on old posters, T-shirts and handbags. Local insight: Saigon Kitsch (43 Ton That Thiep, D.1) has a collection of Vietnamese propaganda articles printed on all types of accessories. Zippos

Once a faithful companion to US soldiers during the war, these enduring lighters can be found throughout Vietnam. They are priced according to the year, design, quality and condition. Get them at Yersin Market (p. 83). Local insight: Most Zippos sold are copies – even the one Martin Sheen had in “Apocalypse Now” wasn’t real. 76

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things to SHOP where SEE souvenirs/food

Culinary Gifts

Artbook - cookbook store

No matter where you are in the world, the classics reign supreme. Coffee, tea and alcohol themed gifts will never lead you astray. Get your coffee and filter at one of the many Phuc Long shops spread around town (try 63 Mac Thi Buoi, D.1). For a tea tasting, check out the collection at newly opened Nguyen Shack (6/15 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D.1). They also have herbal spirits and rice wine on offer. For stylish local wines with a twist, seek out The Bloom (2 Thi Sach, D.1). We recommend the passion fruit version.

This is the place to find beautiful full-colour books about Vietnam. If you’re searching for a perfect gift or souvenir to bring home check out their cookbook selection. They have everything from extensive recipes for banh mi to the an encyclopedia of pho.

And for that uncle who loves to cook, why not choose what’s best in Vietnam: Phu Quoc fish sauce? Get it on the island (p. 114) – or at L’Usine (p. 57). Phu Quoc is not only famous for fish sauce: some of the finest pepper in Southeast Asia grows there. Buy it at Annam Gourmet Market (16 Hai Ba Trung, D.1).

Come to this well-stocked store for their ethereal ceramic collection but stay and explore their cookware, bamboo baskets and cutting boards handcrafted from Southeast Asian wood. Check out their brand new location in calming D.2

$-$$$

1B1 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.1; 43 & 158 Dong Khoi, D.1 46 Le Loi, D.1, 28 Vo Van Tan, D.3 (War Memorial Museum)

Sadec District Ceramics and cookware

$$-$$$

91 Mac Thi Buoi. D.1 63 Xuan Thuy. D.2. saigon

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Maison Marou Saigon - Chocolate

$-$$

Since its start in 2011, Marou has grown to be Vietnam’s premier chocolate institution. Their internationally acclaimed chocolate bars are all made with Vietnamese cacao. In addition to the well-known Single Origin dark chocolate range, you can discover the exclusive Maison Marou bars made and sold at Marou’s café/patisserie/ chocolate factory. Sit down, take a break from your busy tour of Saigon and pick one of their many fresh pastries, all made with their worldclass chocolate. It’s also the perfect place to find a gift for friends with a sweet tooth. 167 Calmette, D.1 028 7300 5010 Mon-Thu 9:00am-10:00pm, Fri-Sun 9:00am-11:00pm we@maisonmarou.com maisonmarou.com

Local insight: Make sure to try Maison Marou Saigon’s hot chocolate and eclairs. You won’t find any better in town. 78

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things to SHOP where SEE fashion

Metiseko

$$-$$$

Metiseko is a French-Vietnamese apparel boutique focusing on creative and luxury fashion. The brand traces their roots back to the ancient town of Hoi An, with inspirations from local traditions and landscapes. Metiseko creates their unique patterned fabric using organic cotton and sustainable mulberry silk from ethical sources that respect both social and environmental principles. 101 Dong Khoi, D.1 028 38238481 157 Dong Khoi, D.1 028 39158826 Metiseko corner @ Snap Café, 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, D.2 8:30am-9:30pm info@metiseko.com metiseko.com

Local insight: If you’re planning on continuing your travels up North to enjoy the cooler climate, don’t forget to lay your hands on Metiseko’s popular scarf collection. saigon

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Fashion & Tailors

fashion

Saigon is fashionable, yet design preferences can differ from the international trends and larger sizes can be hard to find. While you should check out Saigon’s boutiques, tailors are often a great alternative. A made-to-measure men’s shirt can easily come in at under $30! Bring your favourite blouse to copy or come with a clear idea (or photo) of what you want. There are plenty of shops around Ben Thanh Market (p. 18). Try stall no. 500 in the market hall or have your dream in silk woven at Thai Tuan Silk (222-224 Le Thanh Ton). Do invest some time - a suit made in one day will lack finesse. Local insight: The American tailor Kenn Smith is Saigon’s bespoke suit expert. Call 090 841 98 79 for an appointment. Hidden Boutique Shops in Saigon A number of Saigon’s ramshackle ex-apartment buildings have been turned into hip-looking coffee shops, workshops, co-working spaces and fashion boutiques in recent years. The core of these indie-cool meccas, and what sets them apart from the retail chains, is their individual and sometimes bespoke attention to detail. A run-down building located on 42 Nguyen Hue in District 1 offers nine-storeys of independent shops and cafés. Check out The Maker (1st floor) for stylish clothing and accessories. They also have a café on the 3rd floor. The close by three-storey house on 42 Ton That Thiep has turned into a hipster paradise of trendy boutiques. BeUnique (2nd floor) caters to young people who love fashion but don’t want to break the bank. Last but not least, the timeworn building on 14 Ton That Dam is best known for its cafés but it’s also a great spot to shop for the latest clothing trends. Worth exploring!

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things to SHOP where SEE

Paris With Style Céline, the Saigon-based French personal shopper and image consultant for men and women, can change your look and your life by helping you choose new clothing and shop new trends. 90/5 Quoc Huong, D.2 01652230055 pariswithstyle.com; facebook.com/pariswithstyle/

fashion

Therese - Jewellery This reputable jeweller is a favourite of the Saigon expat crowd, unique pieces with top-quality materials. 9 Nguyen Thiep, D.1

Ao Dai Translated from Vietnamese as “long dress”, the form fitting but flowing ao dai is the Vietnamese national dress and the statutory uniform for high school girls. Adults now mostly wear these long tunics worn over silk trousers on the occasion of festivities and traditional ceremonies. There’s even a fairly fashionable men’s version. Have yours customised by famous designer Si Hoang (3rd Floor, 77 Nguyen Hue)! Local insight: Body sizes vary, but it usually takes about four metres of fabric to make an ao dai. Conical Hats Created out of necessity to give shade without adding heat in Vietnam’s tropical climate, there is no more iconic souvenir than the Vietnamese non la, or “leaf hat”. This distinctive headpiece has become a national symbol representing the hardworking spirit of Vietnam. The conical hat is fashioned out of bamboo, with coconut or palm leaves hand-sewn into the frame. The non la can be found in most local markets, tourist shops and on Vietnamese people everywhere, especially in rural settings. It shouldn’t cost you more than VND100,000. Local insight: Look inside the hats to see designs cut into the leaves. saigon

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where E E Sto otSHOP s g n i ht malls/markets

Malls The Saigonese aren’t as mall-crazy as their neighbours in Singapore, but HCMC still has its fair share of malls. It’s also a great way to beat the heat. Central Ho Chi Minh City’s best mall is, arguably, Saigon Centre (65 Le Loi, D.1), offering topnotch international brands and food. Fancy Japanese chocolate, designer clothes or Cantonesestyle dumplings? Get them here. Vincom Center B (72 Le Thanh Ton, D.1) is great for high street brands. Diamond Plaza (34 Le Duan, D.1) combines upper-class shopping with a bowling alley and movie theatre. Impressively designed SC VivoCity (1059 Nguyen Van Linh) in Koreandominated D.7 should also be noted. 82

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There you’ll find lots of entertainment options, such as a children’s play area and a CGV IMAX theatre (p. 101). Parkson Plaza (39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D.1; 184 Le Dai Hanh, D.11) has convenient locations throughout the city. Great for quality kitchenware and appliances. Saigon: Mecca of Markets Saigon has a market for every need. The rule of thumb for haggling is: start at half of the stated price and stay friendly, but don’t expect most vendors to accept your first price! If you don’t want to bargain, look out for fixed-price areas at Ben Thanh Market (p. 18) or Sense Market (23/9 Park, Pham Ngu Lao, D.1). At Saigon Square (77 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia; D1, 179E-181-183-185 Hai Ba Trung, D.1) or Taka Plaza (102 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D.1; Sense

things to SHOP where SEE malls/markets

Market), you can find knock-offs and some overstock of designer brands for reasonable but not dirt cheap prices. Expect to pay VND150 300,000 for a T-shirt. The Russian Market (328 Vo Van Kiet, D.1) has similar prices but also includes thick jackets and clothes for cold weather. Nice quality coats can be found at VND1,000,000 ($43). If you‘d rather go to a tailor and buy your fabrics yourself, get them at Tan Dinh Market (300 Hai Ba Trung, D.1) or for fixed-prices head across the street to the row of fabric shops lining Hai Ba Trung. Chinatown (p. 30) is not only home to Binh Tay Market (p. 32) but also to the city’s Flower Market (p. 120) and to a plethora of market streets, such as Lantern Street (Luong

Nhu Hoc, D.5) or the Decorations Market (31-33-35 Chau Van Liem, D.5). D.1 has a nice selection of themed streets as well. Visit Antique Street (Le Kong Kieu, D.1) for a decorative keepsake, Huyen Tran Cong Chua Street for Sportswear or the Ben Thanh Night Market (Phan Chu Trinh, D.1) for food and souvenirs. And you may not need war surplus or camping gear, but quirky Yersin Market (104 Yersin, D.1) is definitely fun. Last but not least, Wet Markets are deeply rooted in Vietnamese culture. The most central is on Ton That Dam Street in D.1. Vuon Chuoi Market (428 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.3) and the surrounding area contain a meandrous system of streets full of foods of all kinds: smelly, messy, authentic and delicious. saigon

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Shopping Streets

Stores with the same products are often bundled together, whether it’s a row of places selling safes or a strip of snail restaurants. Listed below are the streets where specific types of products can be found.

shopping streets

DISTRICT

1

84

LOCATED BETWEEN

STREET NAME

PRODUCT

NO.

Ton That Tung

IT Appliances

7C-145

Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Nguyen Trai

Thi Sach

Hotels, Bars

7-15C

Le Thanh Ton Tran Hung Dao statue

Nguyen Cu Trinh

Computers

20-74

Tran Hung Dao Cong Quynh

Ly Tu Trong

Fashion

75-213

Truong Dinh Thu Khoa Huan

Huyen Tran Cong Chua

Sporting Goods

Whole street

Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Nguyen Du

Le Cong Kieu

Antiques

1-27

Pho Duc Chinh Nam Ky Khoi Nghia

Hai Ba Trung

Fashion, Restaurants

137A447

Tran Quang Khai Nguyen Thi Minh Khai

Huynh Thuc Khang

Housewares, Perfume

1B-75

Ben Thanh Market Nguyen Hue

Mac Thi Buoi

Fashion, Restaurants

33-97

Hai Ba Trung Nguyen Hue

Ham Nghi

Banks

79A-99

Ben Thanh Market Sai Gon River

Le Thanh Ton

Boutiques, Restaurants

1-245

Ton Duc Thang Ben Thanh Market

Thai Van Lung

Restaurants

9-29

Mac Thi Buoi Le Thanh Ton

Ton That Thiep

Restaurants, Bars

3-49

Nguyen Hue Pasteur

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PRODUCT

NO.

Mac Dinh Chi

Bars, Cafés

11-59C

Dien Bien Phu Le Duan

Le Loi

Souvenirs, Art

15-121

Ben Thanh Market Dong Khoi

Dong Khoi

Souvenirs, Boutiques

1-211

Ton Duc Thang Le Duan

Le Thi Hong Gam

Shoes, Wallets

2-78

Calmette Pho Duc Chinh

Nguyen Trai

Fashion, Restaurants

1-147

New World Saigon Ton That Tung

Luong Huu Khanh

Signs, Signboards

Whole street

Nguyen Trai Bui Thi Xuan

Bui Thi Xuan

Mid-Range Hotels

1-59

Cach Mang Thang 8 Le Thi Rieng

159373

Nguyen Thai Hoc Cong Quynh

201269

Pham Ngu Lao Tran Hung Dao

1-207

Tran Hung Dao Cong Quynh

Pham Ngu Lao De Tham Bui Vien

3

LOCATED BETWEEN

STREET NAME

Travel Agents, Cafés, Restaurants, Souvenirs, Bars

Ly Thai To

Old Vespas

7-105B

Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Le Hong Phong

Le Van Sy

Fashion, Cafés

311B351

Tran Quang Dieu Pham Van Hai

Cao Thang

Fashion, Restaurants

1-169

Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Ba Thang Hai

Nguyen Dinh Chieu

Fashion, Restaurants

131567

Truong Dinh Nguyen Thien Thuat saigon

shopping streets

1

things to SHOP where SEE

DISTRICT

85

where E E Sto otSHOP s g n i ht further suggestions

When the average tourist thinks Vietnam, they think cheap. And yes, if you want to find that quirky “iPho” t-shirt for a couple of dollars, you will. However, Saigon has grown up to be regional business hub and has become the favourite playground for both the big retail players and the indie boutiques. Home Décor NGA Art & Craft House Wave and Funitures

$-$$$

These quality Vietnamese furniture and housewares are handmade by skilled artisans, blending innovative modern art with traditional styles. 91 Le Thanh Ton, D.1

Hanoia

$$-$$$

Artful home décor, jewellery and lacquer silk full of Vietnamese character. 107 Dong Khoi, D.1

Fashion Le Saigonais

$$$

Bright and airy cafe and chic 86

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boutique with clothes by designer Dieu Anh. On the first floor of an old apartment building. 77-79 Ly Tu Trong, 1st floor, D.1

Metisekko

$$$

Beautiful garments made from quality Vietnamese silk and organic cotton. The brand is proud of its socially responsible practices and "Made in Vietnam" identity. 157 Dong Khoi, D.1 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, D.2

Toan Thinh Silk

$$-$$$

Silk fabrics naturally dyed into vibrant colours. Great for a gift or to source fabric to use for a bespoke garment. 195 Ly Tu Trong, D.1

Libé Workshop

$$-$$$

Two venues full of minimalist Vietnamese fashion. A local institution. 1st Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, D.1 1st Floor, 52 Nguyen Trai, D.5

where to

STAY

Renaissance Riverside saigon Saigon

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where E E S to ot sSTAY g n i ht introduction

Airbnb in Saigon

Hotels

Airbnb’s business is booming in Vietnam, with the number of listings increasing by the thousands each year. This is mostly due to Vietnam’s tourism industry being on the rise. Unlike hotels, that are mostly in the city centre, the listings are spread throughout the city, often resulting in accommodations in a more local setting. The added benefit of choosing Airbnb is you’re more likely to get local insights for the best places to eat, drink, and visit. If you’re lucky, your host may even show you around. Make sure you read the reviews of the listing before you book.

With more than five million tourists visiting Saigon each year, the city caters to a wide range of travellers. You can find everything from highend luxury hotels to cosy guest houses and backpacker hostels. Set your budget, pick an area and enjoy the choice!

Tomato Projects (facebook.com/

tomatoprojects) is the most popular host on Airbnb in Saigon with 6 listings in the city. 88

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Local insight: Many of the fivestar hotels in District 1 do a booming business in Sunday buffet brunches that are open to the public. Luxury ingredients and free-flow champagne make it worth the rather expensive price tag. Top brunch picks are at Hotel des Arts (76 78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai), The InterContinental (82 Hai Ba Trung, D.1), Park Hyatt (2 Lam Son Square) and the historic Hotel Caravelle (19 - 23 Lam Son Square).

things to STAY where SEE

Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon Stylish hotel, conveniently close to the airport. Free shuttle downtown and breakfast until 11:30am. 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan D.

InterContinental Saigon

hotels

Only minutes to the cathedral (p. 15) and the post office (p. 15). Award-winning comfort with a sumptuous buffet. Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D.1

Le MĂŠridien Saigon A sophisticated hotel geared towards travellers with a penchant for new tastes and new cultures. Enjoy the saltwater infinity pool on the 9th floor. 3C Ton Duc Thang, D.1

New World Saigon In-house bars and eateries are some of the best in town. No need to go out! In renovation until 2019. 76 Le Lai, D.1

Pullman Saigon Centre New hotel catering to both business and leisure travellers, including a top-notch 24hr business centre and meeting rooms. 148 Tran Hung Dao, D.1

Rex Hotel Built by the French in the early 20th century and refurbished in 2013, the Rex Hotel is part of the cultural heritage of Saigon. 141 Nguyen Hue, D.1

Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers Equipped with 401 guest rooms and 84 suites in a prime location in the heart of the city. Great inhouse options for dining and drinks. 88 Dong Khoi, D.1 saigon

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Sofitel Saigon Plaza Sophisticated design and decor in a prime location. Great city views from the rooftop. 17 Le Duan, D.1

The Reverie Saigon

hotels

The tallest hotel, with the highest standards. Have a drink at in-house R & J Italian Lounge and listen to the live jazz vocals. 22-36 Nguyen Hue & 57-69F Dong Khoi, D.1

Villa Song This French-inspired hotel fuses beauty and tranquillity with views of the Saigon River. Resortlike feel off the city centre. 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, D.2

Alagon Saigon Hotel & Spa Lovely small hotel and spa in one of Saigon’s busiest areas. The afternoon tea is complimentary! 289-291 Ly Tu Trong, D.1

Bay Hotel Ho Chi Minh Opened in 2016, this 4-star hotel located in a quiet downtown street caters to business travellers. 7 Ngo Van Nam, D.1

ibis Saigon Airport Skip the city noise and choose this 4-star hotel just five minutes from the airport. A complimentary shuttle will take you to your room where friendly staff, 24h dining service and a beautiful rooftop bar await. Whether you’re staying for a week or several hours, ibis Saigon Airport is willing to assist you. 2 Hong Ha, Tan Binh D. h9468-RE1@accor.com 028 3848 5556 ibis.com/9468

Local insight: Here on business? The hotel’s four meeting rooms and business center are available to keep you moving. 90

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things to STAY where SEE

A&EM Hotel Group A&EM has 9 hotels of 2, 3 and 4 stars to cater to both business and leisure travelers. All hotels offer complimentary daily buffet breakfast and wifi. Several hotels feature rooftop pools, bars, spas and apartment style facilities. Located in the heart of District 1 and within walking distance to major dining, shopping and tourist attractions.

hotels

39-41 Thu Khoa Huan St, D.1 info7@a-emhotels.com 028 3823 9292 aemhotel.com

Local insight: Visit the hotel's Lamenda Café for great atmosphere, coffee, food and entertainment. Hotel Nikko Saigon Perfect for lovers of minimalist design, Hotel Nikko Saigon is a five-star hotel nestled within Saigon’s business district and nearby tourist attractions. Hotel Nikko Saigon's warm Japanese hospitality and cuisine will please even the most refined guests. 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D.1 028 3925 7777 hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn reservation@hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn

Local insight: The hotel also features complimentary drop-off shuttle service to Saigon’s main tourist landmarks. PARKROYAL Saigon

This sleek atrium-style hotel in Tan Binh District excels at providing guests with a no-fuss stay near the heart of the city, without the District 1 traffic. Besides its convenient location near the airport, travellers here will enjoy tastefully decorated and spacious guestrooms, delicious international cuisine, a beautiful private pool and an award-winning spa. 309B-311 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh D.

028 3842 1111

Local Insight: Being a GHA Platinum or Black Member entitles you to their local experience activities, such as taking a Vietnamese Cooking Class, enjoying the Water Puppet Show or visiting the War Remnants Museum. saigon

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Hotel Continental A beautiful and historic 4-star hotel right next to the Saigon Opera House. Immortalised in the novel, “The Quiet American”. 132-134 Dong Khoi, D.1

further suggestions

Liberty Central Saigon City Point Modern downtown hotel known for its great inhouse cinema and a top breakfast buffet. 59-61 Pasteur, D.1

Norfolk Hotel 104 classy, yet functional hotel rooms in a central location with high service standards. Good choice for business travellers. 117 Le Thanh Ton, D.1

Silverland Sakyo Hotel & Spa Japanese-style boutique hotel in Saigon’s ‘Little Tokyo’ (p. 48). Spa treatments on the rooftop and vibrant nightlife all around! 10A Le Thanh Ton, D.1

Hotel L’Odéon Charming hotel in calm and spacious D.7. Amazing value for your money if you don’t mind a 30-minute drive to the city centre. 63-65 Le Van Thiem, D.7

Ma Maison Boutique Hotel Attractive French-style in a familial atmosphere. The hotel is surrounded by local life and eateries. Only 12 rooms. 656/52 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D.3

Paradise Saigon Boutique Hotel & Spa The decoration won’t blow you away but you’ll get comfort in a convenient location, making it easy to explore the city on foot. 288 Le Thanh Ton, D.1 92

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Si Hoang Show saigon

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Activities Price Guide (per visit) $ - up to VND299,000

tours

Walking Tour

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$$ - VND300,000-499,000

$$$ - VND500,000 & above

Total distance: 4.7km Duration: 2.5-3 hours (without stops) Starting point: The Majestic Hotel Ending point: Bitexco Financial Tower

coffee at Au Parc at 23 Han Thuyen.

Head through the park to the historically significant Reunification Palace (p. 16) at the west end of Le Duan. Facing the palace, turn Begin your journey at the French- right on Nam Ky Khoi Nghia; dodge colonial Majestic Hotel at the the coconut street vendors before beginning of one of the city’s main making a left on Nguyen Thi Minh shopping streets, Dong Khoi (p. Khai. After a five-minute walk, you’ll 16). Walk up the glitzy avenue to see Tao Dan Park (p. 23) on your left. take a peek at the various souvenir Venture through the park, then walk stores, fashion shops and Art down Truong Dinh until you reach Le Galleries (p. 24). The Opera House Thanh Ton again. Turn left. After a (p. 16), designed by Gustave Eiffel, short walk, you’ll reach the fruit and will appear on your right. The flower section of Ben Thanh Market Continental Hotel (p. 92) next door (p. 18). In the evening, look out for has been immortalised by Graham the night market on Phan Chu Trinh. Greene in The Quiet American. Turn Turn right onto Phan Boi Chau, then left onto Le Loi to reach the Nguyen cross diagonally left to Huynh Thuc Hue (p. 17) walking promenade. Khang on the roundabout; you’ll Now turn right and head to the City likely see plenty of construction Hall (p. 17), making sure to take here – this is where Saigon’s main a look at the Ho Chi Minh statue metro station is being built. Follow in front before heading on. Hang the road past the local market on a right on Le Thanh Ton when you Ton That Dam and turn right onto want to explore further. Ho Tung Mau. Walk a bit further, Continue north. After one block and you’ll see Bitexco Financial you’ll see the iconic Notre Dame Tower (p. 20) soaring skyward on Cathedral (p. 15) to the right of the your left. Get a refreshment at The 19th-century Central Post Office Nest Café on the second floor, then (p. 15). Turn back to the cathedral venture to the Observation Deck to and tour 30-4 Park (p. 23). If you take in the jaw-dropping views of feel like a break, sit down for a the city. citypassguide.com

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Ethings E S ot to sgn DO i ht tours

City Tours Explore the metropolis like a local and hop on the back of a Vespa Adventures bike (169A De Tham, D.1). Wild horses can’t drag you onto a motorbike? Then get in a vintage car with Saigon 2CV Tour (15th floor, 2 Vu Tong Phan, D.2). Classic and comfy, cyclos are Vietnam’s traditional means of transport. But beware the scammers. Ask your hotel receptionist to arrange a Cyclo Tour for you. For those who like the active life, bicycle tours can’t be beat. Vietnam Bike Tours (26 Dinh Bo Linh, Binh Thanh D.) are the undisputed champs. Water Tours Saigon Boat Company (8A/11D1 Thai Van Lung, D.1) is the place to catch a sunset on a boat. Drinks and snacks included with a live band and a magician. Have dinner 96

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on the Saigon River with Bonsai Cruise (Nha Rong Port, 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D.4). Cu Chi (p. 108) is a must for Saigon visitors. Avoid the crowded tourist buses and get there by boat with Les Rives. Cultural Tours Tour through galleries, cafés and contemporary art spaces with Sophie’s Art Tour (0933 752 402) Learn the art of calligraphy from a local master with Saigon Street Eats’ Calligraphy and Coffee Trail Tour (0908 449 408) Fun Tours Explore Chinatown while you solve a mysterious murder case. The Urban Tales Tour (362 Tran Phu, D.5) can be combined with a dim sum buffet! Book a customised Photo Tour (0913 236 876) and capture the soul of Saigon in pictures with Vietnamphotoadventures.com.

things to DO SEE

Diem Mot Thoi - Si Hoang Show

$$$

Experience Vietnamese culture through the story of the ao dai, accompanied by traditional Vietnamese music. The dazzling 90-minute show highlights the development of the ao dai over 300 years and features some beautiful ethnic costumes. After the event, you can order your own ao dai on the 3rd floor.

entertainment

2nd Floor, 77 Nguyen Hue, D.1 8:30pm-10:00pm 0901 394 779 / 028 6683 2740 (Mr. Vu) sihoangshow.vn

Local insight: Why not come early and visit the adjacent ao dai gallery for free while you wait? AO Show - Cultural Show

$$$

Shown in the Saigon Opera House (p. 16), AO Show is an acrobatic mix of bamboo circus acts, live music and gravity-defying stunts, all of which capture the essence of Vietnam, from its peaceful hamlets to its vibrant cities. Saigon Opera House, 7 Cong Truong Lam Son, D.1 012 4518 1188

Cai Luong - Folk Opera

$

A traditional form of folk music, cai luong is similar to Western operettas. Performers are adorned in ornate costumes while they sing and dance their way through comedic and dramatic storylines. Tran Huu Trang Theatre, 515-517 Tran Hung Dao, D.1 028 3837 5398

Water Puppets - Cultural Show

$

Originating in the flooded rice paddies of the Red River Delta, Water Puppet Theater depicts Vietnamese folklore and culture using a shallow pool as a stage. The artistic convention is an important part of history. 55B Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.1 028 3930 2196 6:30pm & 8:00pm

Local insight: The puppets are controlled by long bamboo rods in the water. saigon

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Hair Salons

spas/beauty

Pamper yourself at one of Saigon’s numerous hair salons. At most of these spas, VND130,000 will buy you a hair wash and a head massage. You’ll also find many street-side businesses willing to do quick, cheap cuts – look for a sign that says hot toc (hair cut). However, if you’re willing to pay a little more, the city’s luxury salons employ experienced hair gurus who make magic happen. Q Spa (31 Ly Tu Trong, D.1) and Concept Coiffure (48 Tran Ngoc Dien, D.2) are both trusted venues. Local insight: Don’t say "yes" to every question or you will have to shell out for additional services. Nail Salons It seems like people in Vietnam paint their nails more than any other country in the world. Standards are high and prices are extremely affordable. Manicures and pedicures include cuticle cleaning, nail trimming, filing and polishing. Prices range from VND215,000 for a 30-minute manicure to VND320,000 for a 45-minute pedicure. Local insight: Near Ben Thanh Market you'll find a row of nail salons down a small alley (136 Le Thanh Ton, D.1). While your polish dries grab a French lunch at the end of the street at Cocotte or Vietnamese cuisine at Bep Mi In. Massages & Spas Massage and spa culture is constantly evolving in HCMC, offering a large range of options with prices to suit all budgets. Particularly charming are the spas adorned by antique décor repurposed in old villas. Prices will vary depending on the quality of the venue and the treatment. Tell your masseuse how much pressure you want beforehand – some don't ask. Local insight: It’s customary to tip your masseuse after your session; we recommend 10% of the total bill.

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things to DO SEE

Sen Spa $$$ A beautiful interior within walking distance of Dong Khoi Street. Calm your senses with a panoramic view of Saigon and a first-rate, specialised treatment: care for your mind, body and soul in an exquisite setting. For those looking to unwind in the heart of the city, this is the place to do it.

spas/beauty

26-28 Dong Du, D.1 028 3910 2174 9:00am-11:00pm (last appointment: 10:00pm) senspa.com.vn rsv@senspa.com.vn

Local insight: Try their Total Pain Release Massage, ideal to sooth away the strains of daily life. Golden Lotus Five spas across town. The one in D.7 has a Korean-style jjim jil bang with several hot and cold saunas. 139 Ton Dat Tien, D.7

028 5410 7171

L’Apothiquaire Expert treatments and a zen atmosphere in a beautiful colonial villa setting. 64A Truong Dinh, D.3

028 3932 5181

Luxury Spa Rejuvenate and refresh both your body and mind. A stone’s throw away from the airport. Tan Son Nhat Hotel, 202 Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan D. 028 3842 0268

Q Spa Housed in a beautiful French villa, this is one of the most luxurious spas in Ho Chi Minh City. 31 Ly Tu Truong, D.1

028 3507 3787

Sen Trang Spa Tucked away down a quiet tree-lined street near the French and American consulates. This spa is clean, calm and has excellent services. 7/2 Phung Khac Khoan Street, D.1 saigon

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Ethings E S ot to sgn DO i ht for kids

For Kids Travelling with kids can be an exercise in patience. Luckily Saigon is full of places specially designed for the endless energy of little humans. Head to a park to let off steam and follow it up with some family-friendly food. Happy kids mean happy parents. Shows & Activities How do you make Generation Selfie happy? With one-of-a-kind photo ops! Take them at Artinus 3D Museum (p. 100). After a morning on Saigon’s feverish streets, there’s no better way to cool down than by ice skating (p.106). Thirty minutes at the Jump Arena (p. 100) are enough to burn off all excess energy. In Nature A foolproof way to please vivacious children: Dam Sen Water Park (p. 101) or head to the playground at Tao Dan Park (p.23). Eateries Snap Café (p. 52) is alfresco amusement at its best: great burgers and a large play area with a sandbox, swings and slides! Want to introduce your children to Vietnamese cuisine? Join Binh Quoi Buffet (p. 54) on weekends for the food as well as some nature and games. Sense Market (p. 38) unites the classics of Western and Asian cuisines under one roof. Local insight: Parents who need

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a quick fix for over-excited kids should keep an eye out for nearby Malls (p.82). They almost all feature affordable, air-conditioned play areas and game zones. Artinus 3D Museum Interactive Museum

$

If you’re a fan of creative photo shoots, don’t miss out on the Artinus 3D Art Museum. Divided in different sections, this interactive museum invites you to become one with the fantastic 3D backdrops. 2-4 No. 9, Him Lam, D.7 artinusvn.com Mon-Fri 9:00am-6:00pm Sat-Sun 9:00am-8:00pm

Local insight: Families can combine the trip with a visit to Vietopia next door (p. 102). Dam Sen Water Park - Water Park

$

Beat the Saigon heat! Dam Sen includes several pool areas, 30 water games and the mildly terrifying Twister Bowl. Enjoy the carnival rides, animal shows, lake outings and quality peoplewatching. There’s an attraction for everyone. 3D Hoa Binh, D.1 damsenwaterpark.com.vn Mon-Sat 9:00am-6:00pm Sun & Holidays 8:30am-6:00pm

Local insight: For those who are more into relaxation than stimulation, try out the natural wave pool. Gentle waves and clear blue water mimic the feeling of a beach vacation.

$

Saigon’s only IMAX Cinema is located at the SC VivoCity mall (p. 82). Check the movie schedule beforehand at cgv.vn/en. Level 5, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, D.7

Jump Arena - Trampoline Park

$

63 Xa Lo Ha Noi, D.22

KizCiti - Educational

$

Catering to kids from 3 to 15 years old, KizCiti is a mini city where kids can pretend to be working adults and earning ‘kizo’, the KizCiti currency. The staff speaks decent English. In the Khanh Hoi area at the end of Hoang Dieu, D.4

Vietopia - Educational

$

For mini-professionals in training check out Vietopia. A huge indoor kid city with fun educational activities that mirror real world jobs. 2-4 No.9 street, Tan Hung, D.7

Sky Park - Playground

Free

This wet and dry playground on the rooftop of SC VivoCity (p. 82) gives kids plenty of opportunity to run, jump and climb. Rooftop, SC VivoCity, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, D.7

Feel like a round of bowling? Head to Diamond Plaza Bowling on the fourth floor of Diamond Plaza for a modern, noisy and fun alley experience. Climbing Push Climbing (188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D.2) offers free climbing on their outdoor wall on Wednesdays (ladies) and Thursdays (gents) from 5pm to 10pm. And the best part: it’s inside one of Saigon’s hippest bars, Saigon Outcast (p. 67)!

for kids

It’s all about trampolines here, in a venue that includes a climbing wall and a basketball rim to practice your slam dunks. Perfect for active kids.

Bowling

things to DO SEE

IMAX Cinema - Film

Cooking Classes Culinary prowess is the perfect souvenir. And now that Vietnamese cuisine has been taking over the world, you can take a class and show off your skills when you get home. Secrets and techniques passed down through generations are taught in most large cities and can include a trip to the market to get your fresh ingredients. Saigon Cooking Class located at Hoa Tuc Restaurant (74 Hai Ba Trung, Q.1) is an institution. Reserve in advance. If you want to dig deeper, HCM Cooking Class (hochiminhcookingclass.com) takes you to the nearby countryside. You can combine it with a visit to the Cu Chi Tunnels (p. 108)! Local insight: Be sure to ask about Western alternatives to the ingredients that may only be found in Vietnam. saigon

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Dancing

Fitness

The dancing scene in HCMC is vibrant – you can bust a move at numerous locations around the city! Try La Habana (152 Le Lai, D.1) on Wednesdays at 8:30pm for a free swing class, or check La Salsa's (212 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.3) schedule for their group classes. Maxim’s (13-1517 Dong Khoi, D.1) also hosts live music and dancing every night. If you want to start your own dance circle, there are plenty of live music venues (p. 70). Just pick your musical style.

Want to stay fit during your holidays? Most 4- to 5-star hotels have an inhouse fitness centre – check at reception. An equally cheap option is to join the Saigonese during their morning workouts in the park – before sunrise! If neither of the two options works for you, pick one of Saigon’s many budget to high-end gyms, the fancier ones equipped with cuttingedge equipment. Vincharm Health Club at Vincom Center B (p. 82), for instance, is a modern gym spread over 2,000m2.

Local insight: Dance classes are great occasions to meet the local expat crowd. They’ll know where to have a drink after! 102

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Local insight: To set up a home gym find free weights and other fitness equipment on D.1’s sporting goods street behind the Reunification Palace - Huyen Tran Cong Chua.

things to DO SEE

Golfing

activities

Vietnam has excellent golfing options including international-level courses. If you want to fit in a round it’s as easy as calling up the golf course and booking directly. On weekends, slots fill quickly and courses run a strict tee-off schedule, so arrive with time to spare. Alternatively, you can book a spot using an agent. You’ll find that renting golf equipment for a day is affordable. Visit vietnamgolf.vn for more information. Saigon South Golf Club This nine-hole, par-three course in D.7 is a good option for those looking to play a quick round. Nguyen Van Linh, D.72.3

Long Thanh Golf Club Get away from the busy streets at this 36-hole course, about 30km north of Ho Chi Minh City. Xa Lo Ha Noi, Tan Mai II, Phuoc Tan Village, Bien Hoa

Vietnam Golf & Country Club Located 20km north of the city centre, this was the country’s first 36-hole course. Enjoy its natural layout and design. Long Thanh My Ward, D.9

Song Be Golf Resort Just 22km north of the city, this 27-hole course features lakes, tree-lined fairways and undulating greens. 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An D., Binh Duong

The Bluffs at the Grand Ho Tram Strip Besides being a pristine beach area, Ho Tram boasts what might be the best golf course in Vietnam. Private buses can bring you straight there in two hours. reservations@thegrandhotram.com Phuoc Thuan, Xuyen Moc Ba Ria Vung Tau saigon

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Chats E Gaming Center

$$-$$$

The International Tourist Club (ITC) sits at the annex wing of New World Saigon Hotel and features the Chats E Gaming Center and the Catwalk next door. Chats is full of International gaming machines, accessible at any hour of the day. Try your luck at digital slots, baccarat, blackjack and roulette. For the high-rollers, the exclusive VIP rooms offers some truly highstakes thrills. Stop by Catwalk next door for live bands, a pumping dance floor, or sit back and sing the night away at any of their 14 private karaoke rooms. Be sure to check out the Chats Rewards Program, which offers exclusive members benefits and privileges. International Tourist Club, 76 Le Lai, D.1 24/7 028 3824 3760 itclubsaigon.com.vn

Local insight: Entry to Chats is restricted to holders of current foreign passports. 104

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things to DO SEE activities

Club V e-gaming Club V is an upscale electronic gaming lounge located in the basement of Pullman Saigon Hotel. The electronic games consist of up-to date slot machines, blackjack, baccarat and roulettes. Club V is known for the best service in town. Free drinks and snacks are provided for all Club V members. Exciting promotions and events happen daily for high rollers and those who just want to try their luck. Make sure to check out Club V’s mystery progressive jackpots and membership rewards, which offer many attractive benefits. B1 Floor, Pullman Saigon Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao, D.1 24/7 0903747088

Local insight: FREE $20 FOR NEW MEMBERS (Foreign Passport Holders Only) saigon

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Gaming & Casinos

activities

Until recently, casinos in HCMC were few and far between. Now, gambling is alive and well, but generally only available to those with international passports. Along with independent venues, many top hotels have gaming rooms attached. Most of the cards are dealt by unregulated machines, but you can still take a spin to see if Lady Luck is on your side. Local insight: What many call the best casino in the country is at The Grand Ho Tram, a two-hour free shuttle bus ride away from Saigon. Ice Skating Ice skating in tropical Saigon? Yup – be an ice queen (or king) at Vincom Mega Mall (159 Xa Lo Ha Noi, D.2). Karaoke The Vietnamese take singing seriously, so if you’re a keen wailer check out some of the karaoke bars around town. Prices for a room average around VND100,000-150,000 per hour, depending on the size. Drinking a few beers during a singing session is near-obligatory; the staff will make sure you never run out of refills. Make sure your karaoke venue has English songs beforehand to avoid any disappointments. Even if there are English options, most choices will likely be from the 1990s and on. Expats often opt for King Karaoke (31-33 Hai Ba Trung, D.1) or iBox Karaoke (135 Hai Ba Trung, D.1). If you don’t mind spending a bit more, check out Catwalk (p. 69). Pool Many Vietnamese men love their pool games and billiards. The city is dotted with cheap local pool parlours, and many bars have a table. Try Dublin Gate (p. 66) or The Orient Bar (24 Ngo Van Nam, D.1).

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where to

VISIT

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Day Trips Saigon is not only Vietnam’s most thriving metropolis but also the perfect starting point for day trips aplenty. If you’re into history or local culture, nature, beaches or golfing - the ideal excursion is just a short jaunt away. Can Gio Mangrove Biosphere Reserve

day trips

Little more than a one-hour drive from Saigon, this reserve is all about nature, animals and seafood. Perfect for bird-watchers, as well as fans of crocodiles. It’s best to book a tour. Try Les Rives (98 Nguyen Hue, D.1) for luxury and comfort. Local insight: Visitors should beware of the aggressive monkeys! Cuchi Tunnels Explore the vast network of underground tunnels from the 1940’s that were expanded to 121km by guerrilla Viet Cong forces during the American War. The tunnels have now been widened to cater to larger frames, but are still a tight fit and not for the claustrophobic. It takes 90 minutes to get there by bus, or you can take the scenic route by fast boat. Ap Phu Hiep, Phu My Hung Ward, Cu Chi D. 7:00am - 5:00pm VND90,000.

Binh Quoi 1 + 2 Eight kilometres north of District 1, lush greenery and serenity can be found at Binh Quoi Village. Binh Quoi 1 features gardens, lakes and quality Vietnamese restaurants. Stop by for dinner at a riverside restaurant or rent a boat from Binh Quoi 2 to see the contrast between spacious villas and stilt houses. 1147 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh D. 9:00am - 11:00pm Free

Local insight: Explore the area – it has villages, rice paddies and a very rural feel to it. 108

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things to VISIT where SEE

The Mekong Delta The Mekong Delta typifies the Vietnam of our dreams with its exotic landscapes and animated river life. My Tho and Ben Tre are the closest options, at about two hours from Saigon, and are equally beautiful. My Tho

mekong delta

My Tho is one of the most popular trade and tourism hubs in the Delta. It’s also a perfect springboard for day tours of the surrounding tributaries, rivulets and islands because of its close proximity to Saigon. What to Do: The capital of Tien Giang Province is a real charmer and remnants of French architectural influences are still present. The Vinh Trang and Cao Dai Temples display this region’s unique cultural past. My Tho’s economy is based around tourism, fishing and agricultural products. Don’t miss out on the Dong Tam Snake Farm, where you can learn about many rare species of snakes. For some luxurious relaxation stay at The Island Lodge (theislandlodge.com.vn). Can Tho Can Tho, located on the southernmost tributary of the Mekong, is the Delta’s largest provincial capital city and commercial hub. Along the busy pier, thousands of locals in conical hats bob and weave as exotic fruits and dong notes change hands. What to Do: Visit the buzzing central market on Hai Ba Trung, but go early to catch it at its peak. Afterwards, join the sampan boat traffic jams around the three floating markets of Cai Rang, Phong Dien and Phung Hiep. The best way to see the Mekong and Can Tho is by boat, so be sure to book one to join in on the festivities. Local insight: The Can Tho Bridge, an engineering wonder, is the longest cable-stayed bridge in Southeast Asia stretching nearly 2,750 metres. saigon

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Bassac

$$$$

Welcome aboard the Bassac, three authentic wooden cabin cruisers that will take you to discover life on the river in the Mekong Delta. Spend the night on the river in a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere. Built according to local tradition, without compromising safety or comfort, the Bassac is the ideal size to navigate remote areas and offer wide living spaces open to the surrounding scenery. Learn about the local culture of the Mekong Delta and taste specialties cooked afresh and served by a caring crew. Take in the ambiance of the Mekong as you go by. 142-144 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City 0292 382 9540 transmekong.com bassac@transmekong.com

Local insight: When in Can Tho, be sure to take a short cruise to a Khmer pagoda in the countryside. 110

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things to VISIT where SEE southern coast Imperial Hotel Vung Tau

The Southern Coast Vung Tau Vung Tau has long been a popular tourist destination for local and international travellers alike. During the American War, the Vung Tau peninsula was populated by American soldiers on shore leave. The best way to reach Vung Tau is by ferry boat from Ben Nha Rong Port (check greenlines-dp.com). The excursion will take about 1.5 hours. What to Do: The two beaches, Bai Truoc and Bai Sau, offer a broad range of hotels, bars and restaurants. During the weekend the beaches are awash with

Saigonese taking a break from the city, so go during the week for a quieter experience. The top place to visit is the 32-metre statue of Jesus on Mount Nho. Another great vantage point is the Old Lighthouse. The seafood here is first-class and centred around fish, crab, shrimp and lobster. The best restaurants can be found on Vung Tau’s southwestern shore or in hotels such as La SIRENA in the Imperial Hotel or Lan Rung resort. Ganh Hao at 3 Tran Phu is a favourite among locals for affordable, yet high-quality seafood. Local insight: Need a great place to stay while you're in the city? Try Pullman Vung Tau, a 5-star hotel. saigon

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Long Hai

southern coast

Travel to Vung Tau by hydrofoil, then take a relaxing cab (or Grab) ride to Long Hai, 40km from Vung Tau. Situated on and around a small mountain range that overlooks the ocean, the area benefits from a microclimate that keeps it relatively rain free. Long Hai offers the slowpaced lifestyle of a small Vietnamese fishing village, except on weekends when the urban population flocks to the sand. Local insight: Local taxis are not available near the beach area. Book your return in advance or ask at a nearby hotel. An Hoa Residence Looking for a place that is both luxurious and private to relax? Come to An Hoa Residence in Long Hai to enjoy a private beach. All villas are spacious and include a private pool, sauna-jacuzzi and a fully-equipped kitchen. An Hoa Residence is a perfect destination for team building, seminars and family events. Road 44 , Long hai Townlet , Ba Ria-Vung Tau province 0903 905 805 - (0254) 3663310 anhoaresidence.com info@anhoaresidence.com

Local insight: The friendly staff will help you to enjoy your fresh seafood BBQ at the poolside

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things to VISIT where SEE

Phan Thiet / Mui Ne The Phu Hai/Ham Tien/Mui Ne coastline is 20km east of Phan Thiet, and is a popular destination for tourists and Saigonese looking to escape manic city life.

phan thiet / mui ne

The hotels are great for family vacations and feature clean beach areas where visitors can enjoy a more private swim than at the neighbouring public beaches. What to Do: Phan Thiet has a lot to offer for adventure lovers. Although, there’s nowhere to snorkel or scuba dive, this area is extremely popular among the kitesurfing and windsurfing circle. It’s not uncommon to see dozens of kitesurfers and jet skiers zipping by on any given day. There are over 20 kitesurfing schools in the area with classes for all levels of experience. For an experience unique to this area, head about 10km beyond the main resort strip to Mui Ne’s famous sand dunes. Local children with friendly smiles selling “sandboards” are everywhere, or you can ride an ATV to the top to check out the stunning views of the coast! While you’re here, head North about 5km to Hon Rom. The deserted beach is almost an island, since it is only connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of sand. It’s definitely worth a visit. Those looking for a more relaxed experience can take advantage of the various on-site spa services available at most resorts. The area is also known for restaurants serving unique delicacies, so foodies with an open mind can try something new here. Case in point: Muc Mot Nang (halfdried squid). Local insight: Phan Thiet is Vietnam’s grape and dragon fruit capital. You won’t find more flavourful – and cheap! – fruit than here.

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Phu Quoc

phu quoc

Over the past 10 years, Phu Quoc has become a popular destination thanks to its pristine whitesand beaches and tropical landscapes. Located in the Gulf of Thailand and only 12km south of the Cambodian coast, this tropical paradise is a quick 50-minute flight from Ho Chi Minh City and boasts an international airport. Since the rainy season is from June to November, the best time to explore Phu Quoc is December to May. With the Phu Quoc National Park spanning more than 50 percent of its area, much of the island is still protected against construction to help conserve its natural beauty. However, this is likely to change soon due to the commencement of the ‘Phu Quoc Development Plan’, which will have an enormous environmental impact over the next 15 years. Now is the time to see this paradise. What to Do: Phu Quoc is perfect for a quick weekend getaway, where visitors can experience a variety of watersports including snorkeling, scuba diving, fishing, jet skiing and windsurfing. For a more low-key visit, indulge in spa services provided by the hotels in the area, or take a peek at Dinh Cau Rock (Cua Temple) or the Cao Dai temples. Well-known for its famous fish sauce (nuoc mam) and organic black peppercorns, Phu Quoc also boasts delicious seafood. Browse the Duong Dong night market and try out local eats. A unique must-see is the Phu Quoc Prison. One of the most visible historical landmarks left from the Vietnam War, it was South Vietnam’s largest prisoner camp in 1973 and is a moving experience for all visitors. Local insight: For those looking to get their scuba certification in Vietnam, this is the place. Phu Quoc’s unusual warm water boosts coral growth, making for a worthwhile underwater visual experience.

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things to VISIT where SEE phu quoc

Fusion Resort Phu Quoc Occupying a secluded ocean and river-front location, Fusion Resort Phu Quoc takes relaxation to a whole new level. While the private pool villas at this 5-star resort are spectacular, Fusion is known above all for its all-inclusive spas—that’s right, daily massages, facials, body wraps and scrubs are included at no extra cost. If you can pry yourself away from the spa, three unique dining destinations serve up local and international cuisine, and a variety of outdoor activities and nonmotorised water sports are guaranteed to keep you entertained. Hamlet 4, Vung Bau Beach, Cua Can Ward, Phu Quoc 0297 3690 000

Local insight: Check out their special all-inclusive wellness voyages. For a set price, they’ll take care of every detail. All you have to do is decide how long you want your voyage to last. saigon

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things to VISIT where SEE con dao

Con Dao Con Dao may be the most pristine spot in Vietnam. This archipelago of islands situated off the country’s southeastern coast has not yet been overrun by tourists. Flights are less frequent and more expensive than to other destinations, but the extra money is worth it! Con Dao is located at a point where cool and warm ocean currents converge and create a localised climate. This weather pattern allows swimming, snorkelling and diving all year round and Con Dao has arguably the best underwater seascapes to explore in Vietnam.

Beside the beauty of the area, there is plenty to see if you’re a history buff. The French used Con Son, the main island to isolate anticolonial prisoners and the South Vietnamese continued the practice, sending political dissenters to the 11 prisons during the American War. What to Do: The main island is home to a coastline of steep, rocky hills and long sweeping coves, boasting some excellent spots for swimming and snorkelling. Con Son is largely mountainous and offers ample opportunities for jungle hiking. If you’re looking for adventure, you’ve come to the right place. saigon

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where E E S to ot VISIT s g n i ht da lat

Da Lat Around 300km from Saigon, in the middle of the Central Highlands and reachable by plane, Da Lat is a hilly haven to escape from the heat of Saigon. The weather in Da Lat is more pleasant than the rest of tropical Vietnam, warm by day and cool at night. The high altitude allows for the growth of pine trees, flowers, fruits and vegetables not found in other parts of the country. The French discovered Da Lat in the early 20th century and turned it into “Le Petit Paris” with the addition of colonial architecture, most notably the St. Nicholas Church (locally known as the Rooster Church), the Domaine de Marie, Da Lat Train Station, and the Pedagogical College of Da Lat, formerly the Lycée Yersin. The small town is surrounded by pine forests, lakes, waterfalls, farms 118

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and plantations, making it one of the most romantic destinations in Vietnam and an obvious favourite for artists and newlyweds. It is also an ideal destination for hiking, running, and mountain biking. What to Do: Visiting Da Lat’s beautiful lakes and waterfalls is the most popular activity for tourists. Xuan Huong Lake and the Valley of Love in the city center, and Tuyen Lam Lake, about 5km to the south with an adjacent lavender farm, are serene stops where you can relax and enjoy the scenery. Those interested in history and culture can visit the three palaces of Bao Dai, the last emperor of Vietnam, or take the historical steam train from Da Lat Train Station to Trai Mat, where you can visit Linh Phuoc Pagoda, which has a statue in the form of a dragon made from 12,000 beer cans.

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vietnam fact sheet

Geography Total area: 331,210km², half the size of Alaska, US Country size comparison to the world: 66th Total land area: 310,070km² Agricultural land: 34.8% Total water area: 21,140km² Coastline: 3,444km Total land boundaries: 4,639km Border countries: Cambodia 1,228km, Laos 2,130km, China 1,281km Time: UTC/GMT + 7 hours Regions: 58 provinces, 5 municipalities Highest point: Mount Fansipan at 3,144m Natural resources: phosphates, manganese, rare earth elements, bauxite, chromate, coal, offshore oil and gas deposits, timber, hydropower Natural hazards: occasional typhoons (MayJanuary) with extensive flooding Geographical note: Extending 1,650km from north to south, the country is only 50km across its narrowest point.

E E S ot sgniht

II

Population Total population: 96.16 million (July 2017) Major urban areas – population: Hanoi (Capital): 7.56 million (January 2017) Ho Chi Minh City: 8.43 million (January 2017) Hai Phong: 1.99 million (January 2017) Population comparison to the world: 15th Population from ages 0-14: 23.55% Population from ages 15-24: 16.23% Population from ages 25-54: 45.56% Population from 55 and over: 14.55% Fertility rate: 1.81 children born/woman (2017 est.) Population below poverty line: 10% (January 2017) Literacy: 94.5% Life expectancy: 73.7 years Minorities: 54 ethnic groups Ethnic groups: Kinh (Viet) 85.7%, Tay 1.9%, Thai 1.8%, Muong 1.5%, Khmer 1.5%, Mong 1.2%, Nung 1.1%, Hoa 1%, others 5.3% (2009 census) Religions: Buddhist 85.5%, Christian 6.8%, Indigenous religions 2%, Hindu 0.8%, Muslim 0.5%

Economy GDP: $198 billion (2016) GDP comparison to the world: 47th GDP growth rate: 6.2% (2016) GDP per capita: $2,215 (July 2016 est.) GDP per capita comparison to the world: 134th GDP composition by sector: services 40.9%, industry 32.7%, agriculture 16.3% Labour force: 55.9 million (2016) Unemployment rate: 2.3% (2016) Minimum wage in urban Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City: VND3.32 million / month (2016) Inflation rate (consumer prices): 2.7% (2016 est.) Imports: $162.6 billion (2016 est.) Main imports: machinery and equipment, petroleum products, steel products, raw materials for clothing and shoe industries, electronics, plastics, automobiles Imports – partners: China 25.1%, South Korea 17.5%, Japan 7.9%, US 6% (2016) Exports: $176.6 billion (2016 est.) Main exports: clothes, shoes, electronics, seafood, crude oil, rice, coffee, wooden products, machinery Exports – partners: US 20.2%, China 14.2%, Japan 8.2%, South Korea 6.2% (2016) Industrial production growth rate: 7.6% (2016 est.)

III

need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht

Miscellaneous National symbols: yellow, five-pointed star on red field; lotus blossom National colours: red, yellow Internet country code: .vn Internet users: 49.7 million (2015) Mobile/cellular telephones: 122 million (2016)

Government Capital: Hanoi Independence: 2 September 1945 Constitution: 28 November 2013 Ruling Party: Communist Party of Vietnam Governance: Political Bureau (14 members) Central Committee of the Party (125 members) National Assembly (500 members) Prime Minister: Nguyen Xuan Phuc (since 2016) Elections/appointments: president indirectly elected by National Assembly for a single 5-year term; president appoints prime minister and cabinet Highest court: Supreme People’s Court (chief justice + 13 judges)

National debt: $116 billion (2016 est.) Member of WTO: Since 2007

vietnam fact sheet

0.85 0.94

8.13 1.49

10,000 15,000 30,000 20,000 25,000 20,000 22,000 40,000 190,000 35,000 17,000

Soft drink can (street)

Soft drink (restaurant)

Coconut water (street)

Fruit smoothie (street)

Beer 33 cl. bottle (local restaurant)

Cigarettes

Pho (noodle soup)

Meal (mid-range restaurant)

Milk (1 litre)

Taxi (per km)

need to KNOW

price guide

2.14

50,000

Western-style cappuccino

Small bottle of water (street)

0.72

1.71

1.07

0.85

1.28

0.64

0.42

0.64

15,000

Vietnamese street coffee

USD

VND

Exchange rate: $1 = VND23,350

15,000 15,000 6,000

Petrol (per litre) Postcard International postcard stamp English-language newspaper

Thick rain poncho

Thin rain poncho

Laundry (per kg)

Shampoo

Shoe shine (per pair)

50,000

10,000

25,000

25,000

20,000

100,000

22,000

Cyclo (per hour)

T-shirt (market)

20,000 60,000

Motorbike taxi (short hop)

6,000

VND

City centre bus fare (short hop)

Exchange rate: $1 = VND22,700

2.14

0.42

1.07

1.07

0.85

4.28

0.25

0.64

0,64

0.94

2.57

0.85

0,25

USD

IV

If you’re wondering how much money to withdraw at the ATM to see you through, check below for some of the average costs that you will find in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 1. Hanoi prices are just a bit more expensive.

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Central Vietnam Central Vietnam can be split into two sub-regions. The Coastal Lowlands are generally drier and hotter

Local insight: Humidity is pervasive in the North. A dehumidifier can keep your clothes free of mildew.

North Vietnam The North is generally cooler than the rest of the country. The winter months of November to January can be unexpectedly cold, especially in the mountainous areas along the Chinese border. Even in Hanoi, you will need a jumper to keep warm. The hottest period of the year is May to October, when temperatures can rise to 37 degrees Celsius. During these months, the North will have the occasional typhoon.

There are three distinct regions where the climates differ: North, Central and South Vietnam.

Vietnam lies in the East Asian monsoon zone and is affected by the southwestern (May-September) and northeastern (October-April) monsoons. Because of the country’s 1,600km length, each region has varying weather patterns that should be factored in when planning your trip.

Climate

V

need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht

Local insight: Remember to bring a raincoat to Dalat. The province experiences nearly double the average rainfall of the rest of Vietnam.

South Vietnam The South experiences little variation in temperature during the year, fluctuating from 27-37 degrees Celsius, and has rainy and dry seasons. Rainy season lasts for seven months from May to November while dry season dominates the rest of the year. To beat the heat, take a trip to Dalat where temperatures are always a bit cooler than in Saigon.

Local insight: One positive aspect of the monsoon season is the "surfable" waves around the region. Head to Danang from September to March to catch the peak surf season.

than the Central Highlands. However, unprotected parts of the coast have more typhoons and storms than the North from November to March. Nha Trang experiences a longer dry season, which runs from January to September with high temperatures and little rain. With cooler temperatures, the Central Highlands experience more than double the average rainfall of the country, so prepare to get a bit wet.

climate

need to KNOW

things to keep in mind

Food safety Vietnamese food is delicious and you will want to try it all. Go ahead, but be aware that the sanitary conditions at the street food level won’t be as high as at Singapore’s famous hawker stalls. If you plan to eat street food, keep some Imodium in case you run into digestive or intestinal problems. Stick to wellfrequented venues, and always peel fruit.

Get your hotel details Remember to take your hotel’s business card to make your return to the hotel easier by handing it to your taxi, motorbike or Grab/Uber driver.

Hotel stays When checking into a hotel, you will have to surrender your passport so that the hotel can register your presence with the local police. Once registered, ensure that your passport is returned to you and keep it in a safe place. Passports should not be used as a deposit for renting hotel rooms, or in place of a fine in the event of any possible traffic offence. Always carry photocopies of the data and visa pages from your passport

Things to Keep in Mind

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VI

In terms of vaccinations, the Centre for Disease Control recommends Hepatitis A & B, Japanese Encephalitis, Rabies and Typhoid vaccinations.

You’ll see many locals wearing face masks in traffic. Though air quality is a serious issue in Vietnam, this won’t help unless you have a pollution-filtering mask. Wear one of those or none.

The UV rating in Vietnam sometimes goes up to 12, in other words: very, very high. Always bring sun cream (SPF 30-50) and take regular breaks in the shade. If there is none, use an umbrella as a parasol.

General Health Malaria is not endemic in the cities but dengue fever is still a possibility, so be aware and make sure to use mosquito repellent, especially in more remote areas.

Water Contaminated water is a major cause of sickness, so don't drink from the tap – stick to bottled water. The Vietnamese use mountains of ice and there’s a huge commercial ice-making industry; if the ice is cylindrical in shape, it is probably made from safe, filtered water.

need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht

Drugs In Vietnamese law, anyone found in possession of even a small amount of drugs can face the death sentence. So remember to just say no. Take your plastic with you Many shops in the big cities are now accepting more credit cards and ATMs can be found easily. In the countryside, however, most venues are still on a cashbased billing system. It is better to always carry some money with you. Take a break in the afternoon It can get quite hot visiting the attractions; take breaks in the middle of the day to keep refreshed for the afternoon’s activities. Try and do most of your sightseeing early in the morning or late in the afternoon, and keep in mind that the sun sets quickly.

Walk slowly when crossing the street Crossing the street in Vietnam is scary but can be fun nonetheless. Remember that motorbikes are trying to anticipate your movements to avoid hitting you. Keep a slow but steady pace and only stop for cars and buses.

Security Violent crime is rare, but like any large city, Saigon and Hanoi have their fair share of pickpockets. Petty crime mostly occurs in the main tourist areas. Be especially aware in Hanoi’s Old Quarter and Saigon’s Pham Ngu Lao area. Do not walk in secluded locations alone,

or with people you do not know. Keep your phone and wallet out of sight, avoid carrying handbags or wearing expensive-looking jewellery or watches. Use hotel safety deposit boxes to store valuables, money and passports, and carry a photocopy of the data and visa pages of your passport. There are scams targeting tourists, that involve fake charities, gambling and taxis.

things to keep in mind

Traffic With about 7.9 million registered vehicles in Ho Chi Minh City and 6.1 million in Hanoi, streets are more congested than ever, especially during rush hours, 6:30-9am and 4-7pm. If you have a flight to catch, always allow an extra hour of travel time to be on the safe side.

Motorbike safety Always wear a helmet (which is required by law anyway), avoid dangly jewellery and miniskirts, and clip your bag or store it underneath the seat of the bike to keep it safe from snatchers. Also see page XVIII.

VII

need to KNOW

things to keep in mind

Don’t lose your temper This is considered a serious loss of face for both parties and should be avoided. Try to maintain a cool demeanour and it will be reciprocated with kindness. Smiling always works wonders.

Shoes Vietnamese take off their shoes when entering a house, and of course pagodas. It’s common courtesy to do likewise.

It gets cold in Hanoi Hanoi has four seasons with very hot and sticky summers and rather cold and humid winters. If you are heading to the North from November to February, bring a jumper or a heavy fleece.

Cover up When visiting temples or pagodas, make sure to pack a shawl or extra shirt and wear knee-length clothing to respect the local culture. This may also save you from catching a cold in the mostly freezing, air-conditioned malls.

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VIII

Business Business hours in Vietnam are 8:00am to 6:00pm, Monday to Friday. Some businesses open from 8:00am to noon on Saturdays. Banks usually open from 8:00am to 4:00pm and close on weekends. Retail shops generally open from 9:00am to 9:00pm, seven days a week.

Bargain Remember that negotiating is not rude but expected in any market or street-side setting. Haggle for the best price or risk paying over the odds. Try "walking away" to get a better price, or try a few vendors to get a feel of what's realistic. Remember to keep smiling and, most importantly, always negotiate before receiving any kind of service.

Be a sensitive snapper Most people in Vietnam love having their photo taken and will ask to have one with you, but it’s polite to ask first. Bear in mind that there are some places like Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum where taking photos is prohibited.

Vietnamese will appreciate any attempt to speak their language. Learn the numbers for a chance to barter for cheaper prices.

When addressing Vietnamese, use anh (male) or chi (female) if the person you are addressing is older than you, and em if they are younger.

On the plus side, the modern written language is entirely based on roman script, so readable for most travellers.

Language The Vietnamese language is a tonal language. There are six distinct tones and each word can have a different meaning depending on the tone. This can be quite frustrating at times, especially when people don’t understand your attempt to speak even basic Vietnamese.

Media Check Tuoi Tre (tuoitrenews.vn) or VnExpress (e.vnexpress.net) to read the latest news from Vietnam in English. For business news, get the monthly Vietnam Economic Times magazine and weekly Vietnam Investment Review newspaper.

IX

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Volunteering If you are looking to give back to the community, there are a number of non-governmental organisations based in Vietnam. For more information, check the NGO resource centre in Hanoi (ngocentre.org).

Electricity The standard electrical supply in Vietnam runs at 220V, 50Hz. If you have appliances that run at lower voltages, make sure you have a converter. The most common sockets are two round pins without a ground pin, which will often take two-flat-blade plugs as well. Hotels with international clientele may also have combined sockets that take a wide variety of plugs. You can find adapters at convenience stores.

Travelling with children Vietnamese love children, so don’t be alarmed at all the attention your child receives. Also, for those travelling with babies, supplies are available, but stock up if you plan to travel outside major city centres. Child safety seats are not readily available for any type of transportation and it’s best to bring your own. Be aware that there are few diaper-changing stations in restaurant bathrooms.

things to keep in mind

need to KNOW

E E S ot sgniht

visas and public holidays

X

Extensions Visa extensions are available for a fee of $10 if you go

Fees Tourist visas are valid for 30 or 90 days and can be single or multiple entry. The stamping fee varies from $25 for a one-month, single entry visa, to $50 for a three-month, multiple entry visa. For an additional “expedite service” fee, you can bypass the processing time of three to four working days.

If you are flying into the country, visas on arrival are available through various travel agencies and online visa services who, for a fee, will fill out the paperwork for you. If you are entering through a land border, you will have to formally apply for a visa in your home country or one of the countries bordering Vietnam.

Vietnam Visas Most foreigners wishing to visit Vietnam need to apply for an entry visa in advance. Most citizens of ASEAN member-countries, such as Thailand, Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Cambodia, and Laos do not need a visa if they visit Vietnam for 30 days or less. Check on your government’s website. There’s a special 30-day visa exemption for Phu Quoc. Visit phuquocislandguide. com/phu-quoc-visa/ to know more.

XI

need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht

1 January – Western New Year’s Day First to seventh days of the first moon (between January and February) – Tet Nguyen Dan April – Hung King Festival 30 April – Liberation Day / Reunification Day 1 May – International Workers' Day 2 September – National Day

Holidays Though Vietnam traditionally has many holidays, religious or otherwise, these are the only ones publicly recognised by the government:

Ho Chi Minh City Immigration Office 254 Nguyen Trai, D.1 028 3920 0365 8:00am-11:30am & 1:30pm-4:30pm

Hanoi Immigration Office 44-46 Tran Phu, Ba Dinh D. 024 3826 4026 8:00am-11:30am & 1:30pm-4:00pm

directly to the immigration office. However, this takes some local language skills and quite a bit of patience. Due to this, most travellers rely on travel agents to deal with their extensions. This can take up to 10 days to process. You can only extend the same amount as your original visa. The visa extension should be applied at least five days before it expires.

visas and public holidays

need to KNOW

money

ATMs Most major foreign-issued credit and debit cards are accepted at ATMs in HCMC. Travellers can access Plus and Cirrus networks via HSBC, Vietcombank, ANZ and many other ATM machines. The standard withdrawal limit may be very low, but you should be able to withdraw several times. Use common sense. Key in your PIN inconspicuously and keep to welllit, busy cash terminals. ATMs are commonly found inside major banks, Western-style grocery stores and hotels, or on busy streets.

Local insight: The VND20,000 and VND500,000 notes are very similar in colour. Remember that the VND500,000 note is just a bit larger.

Currency The official currency of Vietnam is the Dong and it fluctuates around VND23,350 to the US Dollar. The notes printed after 2003 are made out of plastic polymer.

Currency Exchange If you want to be sure to get the official rate, head to a bank. Most hotels will offer the same rate but may charge an extra fee. Generally, larger bills give a better rate than smaller notes. Make sure your foreign bank notes are clean and crisp with no tears or writing. They might not be accepted otherwise.

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XII

Local insight: Check this link to know more about the process: immivietnamvisa.com/how-to-get-vatrefund-in-vietnam.

VAT International travellers are entitled to obtain a refund that accounts for 85% of the 10% Value Added Tax (VAT) on eligible goods that were purchased from a registered VAT refund shop, thanks to a pilot scheme that was introduced in 2012. While the procedure may not be worth it for small purchases, if you are planning to buy expensive items, it is a substantial saving.

Local insight: To get around any unnecessary embarrassment, be sure to contact your bank and let them know you are travelling, or your card may be blocked for “suspicious activity�.

Debit & Credit Cards More and more businesses in Vietnam are now accepting credit cards, however it is advisable to carry cash, especially at places where the payment policy is unknown or vague. It is always good practice to make enquiries before assuming that your credit card will be accepted. Most luxury hotels will accept credit cards. Some establishments add a 3% charge for credit card use and charge a higher user fee for holders of an American Express card.

Vietnam’s network is GSM-compatible and will work with most carriers. You can buy a local SIM card and minutes from around VND100,000. The most popular providers are Mobifone, Viettel and Vinaphone. Viettel has the best coverage throughout the country and is a better choice if you are heading to more remote areas. 3G service is usually available in metropolitan centres and pre-paid data packages are cheap. Plus, 4G is on its way.

Phones Vietnamese are phone-crazy, so it’s not surprising that there seems to be a mobile phone shop on every street selling off-brand phone equipment for the latest smartphones on the cheap.

Internet Vietnam is currently the most dynamic internet market in Southeast Asia, with over 50% household saturation of ADSL in urban cities and rising. Cafés have morphed into internet connection hubs and most will give you a login password for the price of a drink. Access to social networks such as Facebook, Twitter, etc. is generally possible.

XIII internet and phones

need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht

09 6866 8995

Dalat: 0263 Danang: 0236 Hanoi: 024 Ho Chi Minh City: 028 Hoi An: 0235 Hue: 0234 Mui Ne: 0252 Nha Trang: 0258

The international country code for Vietnam is +84. Note that Vietnam has recently undertaken an extensive area code change. Listed below are the new prefixes for the country's major destination cities.

Mai Nguyen (Ho Chi Minh City) 27 Nguyen Binh Khiem, D.1 028 3910 1227

Hoang Ha Mobile (Hanoi) 95B Pho Hue, Hai Ba Trung D.

If your phone is broken, there are several places in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City for phone repair:

Viettel 50 Van Cao, Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh D. 024 6258 0186 (Hanoi) 166C-D-E Tran Hung Dao, D.1 028 6655 1205 (Ho Chi Minh City)

Mobifone 140 Cau Giay, Cau Giay D. 024 3843 3433 (Hanoi) 80 Nguyen Du, D.1 028 3822 8171 (Ho Chi Minh City)

Mail

need to KNOW

communication and health

FedEx Hanoi 35C Nguyen Huy Tuong, Thanh Xuan D. Mon-Fri 8:00am-5:30pm 024 3557 8899

DHL International Hanoi 17 Pham Hung, Tu Liem D. Mon-Fri 8:00am-5:30pm 024 3775 3999

International Post Office 75 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem D. Mon-Fri 6:30am-10:00pm 024 3825 4403

Hanoi

The postal system in Vietnam is fairly reliable, although not overly quick. If you need your package delivered in a hurry, there are several shipping companies to choose from. Don’t seal parcels before taking them to the post office, as you will be required to show the contents to customs before having the package weighed and priced. DHL and FedEx are also available. If you are planning to receive a package, make sure the shipping company will track the package for the whole journey. Postcards cost around VND15,000 to send overseas.

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XIV

If you are bringing prescription medication into Vietnam, we advise you carry it in your hand luggage and carry a copy of your prescription. Regarding vaccination concerns, please refer to page VI.

Make sure you have adequate travel health insurance and accessible funds to cover the cost of any medical treatment abroad as well as repatriation: you may have to pay first and claim later (check the fine print).

Be aware that healthcare in rural areas is extremely basic and it’s best to head to an urban centre even for minor injuries. More complicated treatment may even require evacuation to another nearby country.

Health Concerns

FedEx HCMC 6 Thang Long, Tan Binh D. Mon-Fri 7:30am-6:00pm 028 3948 0370

DHL International HCMC 6 Thang Long, Tan Binh D. Mon-Fri, 8:00am-6:30pm 028 3844 6203

Saigon Central Post Office 2 Cong Xa Paris, D.1. 7:00am-7:00pm 028 3829 6862

Ho Chi Minh City

The call centre (they can speak English) will give contacts of your location’s nearest station.

Emergency cases: Police 113 Fire 114 Ambulance 115 For more support, call: 024 1080 (Hanoi) 028 1080 (Ho Chi Minh City).

Important numbers

Bear in mind that if your insurance provider does not have an agreement with the medical centre, you will need to pay the doctor or hospital/clinic for treatment received before you leave. Be certain to keep your receipts so that you can claim reimbursement from your medical insurance provider.

The quality of care at international hospitals in Ho Chi Minh City is quite good. Besides treatment and care of minor ailments, the city's international-standard clinics offer a wide range of services and treatments. Book an appointment beforehand to avoid long waiting times. Bring your passport and medical insurance card if you have one.

Hospitals & Clinics

XV

024 3826 4545

Open 24hrs

need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht

FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D.7 8:00am-6:00pm

028 5411 3333

CMI 1 Han Thuyen, D.1, HCMC 028 3827 2366 Mon-Fri 8:30am-7:00 pm / Sun 9:00am-1:00pm

Victoria Healthcare International Clinics 79 Dien Bien Phu, D.1 20-20Bis-22 Dinh Tien Hoang, D.1 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan D. 152 Nguyen Luong Bang, D.7 028 3910 4545 (24/7 Emergency Hotline)

Ho Chi Minh City

Viet Duc Hospital 40 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem D. Open 24hrs 024 3825 3531 / 09 1495 0458

L’Hôpital Français de Hanoi No 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da D. Open 24hrs 024 3574 1111 / 024 3577 1100

Raffles Medical Clinic 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho D.

Hanoi

health

Hanoi Australian Dental Clinic 3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung D. 09 0620 0434 Mon-Sat 8:30am-7:00pm Sun 8:30am-5:00pm

Dental Clinics

Vietnam is near the top of the list when it comes to affordable dental care. Thanks to a good quality of care and unbeatable prices, dental tourism is booming. Foreign-owned and operated clinics, especially in Ho Chi Minh City, provide the latest services and techniques. A full range of treatments is available

need to KNOW

One Dental Clinic 8 Quang An, Tay Ho D. 024 3718 6168 Mon-Fri 8:30am-6:00pm / Sat 9:00am-5:00pm

XVI

Smile Dental Clinic 173 Ton Dat Tien, D.7 028 5413 6634 Mon-Fri 8:00am-7:00pm / Sat 8:00am-5:00pm

Eco Pharmacy (Ho Chi Minh City) 397 Hai Ba Trung, D.3 6:00am to midnight 028 3820 7476

health

Starlight Dental 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D.3 028 3822 6222 Mon-Fri 8:00am-8:00pm / Sat 8:00am-5:00pm

Ho Chi Minh City

Mega3 Pharmacy (Hanoi) 31 Lang Ha, Ba Dinh D. 7:30am-7:30pm 024 9288 2288

including preventative care, cosmetic dentistry, teeth whitening, implants, veneers, crowns, bridges and extractions. For major work, you may want to stick with the international clinics. A check-up and cleaning will set you back about VND500,000-800,000. Elite Dental 51A Tu Xuong, Ward 7, D.3 / 57A Tran Quoc Thao, D.3 09 0255 9888 / 028 7306 3838 Mon-Sat 8:30am-7:30pm / Sun 8:00am-12:00pm

Pharmacies

Although the selection of popular pharmaceutical drugs available in urban pharmacies are good, you would be wise to bring a supply of medicines and contraceptives from your home country to be on the safe side. If you do need a pharmacy, write down the exact medicine you require for the pharmacist. Always check the expiry date. Note that the previously listed medical clinics have their own pharmacies but may require a doctor’s appointment to receive a prescription.

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Local insight: Make sure you keep both white and yellow duplicate customs forms, as you will need them for your departure.

Check your flight status online at hanoiairportonline. com/flight-status or hochiminhcityairport.com/flightstatus-arrivalsdepartures.

The two main ports of entry are Hanoi’s Noi Bai (HAN) and Ho Chi Minh City’s Tan Son Nhat (SGN), with Danang (DAD) a distant third. Due to congestion, the number of direct flights into and out of Vietnam from these airports is limited and most will involve a transit stop along the way. Luckily for international travellers, two new international airports have opened in Cam Ranh and Phu Quoc.

International Flights

024 3942 3697

Local insight: Bring socks and a thick jumper in a sleeper car. The air-conditioning often runs full blast.

Ho Chi Minh City Train Station 1 Nguyen Thong, D.3 028 3843 6528

Hanoi Train Station 120 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem D.

Train tickets can be purchased through travel agents or directly at the train station. Ticket classes include hard seat and soft seat, and hard-berth and soft-berth compartments for overnight trips. A drink and light snack are usually included in the ticket price. Many train routes also have dining cars with fair rates. For a detailed schedule of departure and arrival times as well as fees and availability, check seat61.com/ vietnam.htm.

Going by the North-to-South railway line known as the Reunification Express is much less jarring than road travel. The train system is slowly being modernised. Sleeper cars are available for long trips, and a private company called “Golden Train” does a comfy sleeper run from Ho Chi Minh City to Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Check the schedule at baolau.com.

Local insight: Vietnamairfare.com is an excellent resource for domestic flights.

Trains

need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht

Domestic flights are relatively cheap and are a faster alternative to buses or trains. The national carrier is Vietnam Airlines. Jetstar Pacific Airlines and VietJet Air offer budget pricing and also operate locally. But watch out: the cheaper airlines are notorious for delays.

travel

Domestic Flights

XVII

need to KNOW

XVIII

Long-distance bus services connect most cities in Vietnam, and tickets can be purchased at the main bus stations. However, Vietnam is a very large country with a coastline that runs for 3,444km. It is advisable to break your bus journey into destinations within six hours’ drive. When taking sleeper buses, bring an eye mask and ear plugs, just in case.

travel

City-to-City Bus Service

Ride-Hailing Apps

Grab apps offer cheaper fares and more polite drivers than regular taxis and motorbike taxis. No haggling here, the price is calculated by the app. Round up to the nearest five to score a smile. If you get a call, just state the pick-up location. When your ride arrives, always check the licence number or you might get scammed.

Vinasun HCMC Hotline 028 3827 2727

Hanoi Taxi Hanoi Hotline 024 3853 5353

City Bus Service

Mai Linh Hanoi Hotline 024 3861 6161 HCMC Hotline 028 3838 3838

Buses, too, are an option to get around the city, though many are old and packed during rush hour. Short trips, however, come at a bargain price: VND6,000! Check the bus routes at busmap.vn/?locale=en. If you want to get on, be sure to wave when your bus arrives, or they might just drive by. Tickets are sold on the bus.

Motorbike Taxis The traditional type of ride-hailing services in Vietnam are xe om, motorbike taxi drivers waiting on street corners to pick up clients. They are, however, slowly outcompeted by Grab. If you want to hire one, show them your destination on a map or write it down. Most importantly, make sure you agree on a price beforehand. Haggling is compulsory.

Taxis

Taxis are numerous and cheap compared to some neighbouring countries. The drivers speak very little English (if at all), so it pays to write down your destination. All reputable taxi companies will start the meter as soon as you start the journey. To avoid scammers, stick to larger taxi companies such as Hanoi Taxi, Mai Linh or Vinasun.

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HCMC

From

Hanoi

From

XIX

290km

554km

Phnom Penh

Siem Reap

19.5 hours

1,012km

Hoi An

1,106km

451km

Nha Trang

1,609km

310km

Dalat

Hue

223km

Mui Ne

Hanoi

15 hours

198km

Phan Thiet

12 hours

6 hours

33 hours

10 hours

7 hours

4.5 hours

4 hours

2 hours

96km

Duration

33 hours

30 hours

Distance

HCMC

To

1,517km

1,609km

Phan Thiet

28 hours

Vung Tau

1,420km

Dalat

26 hours

16 hours

798km

1,293km

Hoi An

Nha Trang

13 hours

670km

Hue

Duration

Distance

To

need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht

Don’t Mess with Buses - Might is right. You don’t agree? Bus drivers couldn’t care less.

Do Go When You Can Go -In Vietnam, nobody gives way. Ever.

What’s Happening Behind You Is None of Your Business - Forget about rearview mirrors. All that matters is in front of you.

Three Rules of Riding a Motorbike in Vietnam

Local insight: Manuals rent for VND100,000 per day. Automatics cost around VND140,000 per day.

To rent a motorbike, you will need to provide a passport, sign a rental agreement or pay in advance. Longer rental periods may require you to leave a cash deposit equal to the motorbike’s market value. Make certain that your rental motorbike has functioning brakes, lights etc. Park it at attended parking lots to diminish the chance of theft. You’ll usually get a parking ticket: if you lose it, you will need to verify ownership of the bike, which means contacting your rental place. Helmets are mandatory for drivers and passengers.

Officially, foreigners need a Vietnamese driver’s licence to hit the road. So, check with your travel insurance to make sure that you are covered in case of an accident.

Motorbikes

travel

need to KNOW

E E S ot sgniht

travel

Futa

Mai Linh +84 28 3838 3838

Vinasun +84 28 3827 2727

XX

+84 28 3818 1818

Goviet

Grab

Bus tour

Electric bus

Bus map

Bus

Bar Code Reference Guide

Argentina 41A Ly Thai To 024 3831 5262 Australia 8 Dao Tan 024 3774 0100 Austria 53 Quang Trung 024 3943 3050 Bangladesh 675 Lac Long Quan 024 3771 6625 Belgium 49 Hai Ba Trung 024 3934 6179 Brazil D6/7, 14 Thuy Khe 024 3843 2544 Bulgaria 5 Nui Truc 024 3845 2908 Cambodia 71 Tran Hung Dao 024 3942 4788 Canada 31 Hung Vuong 024 3734 5000 Chile 14 Thuy Khue 024 3935 1147 China 46 Hoang Dieu 024 3845 3736 Cuba 65A Ly Thuong Kiet 024 3942 4775 Czech Republic 13 Chu Van An 024 3845 4131 Denmark 194 Tran Quang Khai 024 3823 1888 Finland 31 Hai Ba Trung 024 3826 6788 France 57 Tran Hung Dao 024 3944 5700 Germany 29 Tran Phu 024 3843 0245 Greece 27 Au Co 024 3715 2254 Hungary 360 Kim Ma 024 3771 5714 India 58-60 Tran Hung Dao 024 3824 4989 Indonesia 50 Ngo Quyen 024 3825 3353 Ireland 41A Ly Thai To 024 3974 3291 Israel 68 Nguyen Thai Hoc 024 3843 3140

Embassy Listings in Hanoi

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need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht

Italy 9 Le Phung Hieu 024 3825 6246 Japan 27 Lieu Giai 024 3846 3000 Laos 22 Tran Binh Trong 024 3942 4576 Malaysia 43-45 Dien Bien Phu 024 3734 3836 Mexico 11th Floor, 14 Thuy Khue 024 3847 0948 Myanmar 298A Kim Ma 024 3845 3369 Netherlands 360 Kim Ma 024 3831 5650 New Zealand 63 Ly Thai To 024 3824 1481 Norway 49 Hai Ba Trung 024 3974 8900 Philippines 27B Tran Hung Dao 024 3943 7873 Poland 3 Chua Mot Cot 024 3845 2027 Qatar 43 Tran Hung Dao 024 3943 0222 Russia 191 La Thanh 024 3833 6991 Singapore 41-43 Tran Phu 024 3848 9168 South Africa 31 Hai Ba Trung 024 3936 2000 South Korea 360 Kim Ma 024 3831 5110 Spain 4 Le Hong Phong 024 3771 5207 Sri Lanka 55 B Tran Phu 024 3734 1897 Sweden 2 Nui Truc 024 3726 0400 Switzerland 44B Ly Thuong Kiet 024 3934 6589 Thailand 63-65 Hoang Dieu 024 3823 5092 Turkey 4 Da Tuong 024 3822 2460 Ukraine 6 Le Hong Phong 024 3734 4492 United Kingdom 31 Hai Ba Trung 024 3936 0500 United States 7 Lang Ha 02 4 3850 5000

embassies and consulates

5B, 45 Phung Khac Khoan, D.1

Cuba

028 3743 2717 028 3822 8289

Japan

Italy

need to KNOW

028 3825 1888

embassies and consulates

028 3933 3510

028 3827 5445

261 Dien Bien Phu, D.3

93 Nguyen Du, D.1

028 3827 4462 028 3823 7050

18 Phung Khac Khoan, D.1

55 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.1

Indonesia

India

80 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.1

Iceland

028 3822 4385

016 8422 5328

126 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D.3

9-11 Ton Duc Thang, D.1

Hungary

27 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.1

France

Germany

028 3520 6800

111A Pasteur, D.1

Finland

028 3827 2029

72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.3

028 3821 9373

Denmark

175 Hai Ba Trung, D.1

028 3829 2457

Villa Famosa, 121A, 38st., D.2

Chile

China

028 3829 0585

028 3827 9899

028 3829 2751

18 Bis/28 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.1

235 Dong Khoi, D.1

41 Phung Khac Khoan, D.1

Czech Republic

Canada

Cambodia

028 6281 8001

028 3521 8100

47 Ly Tu Trong, D.1

No 105, Duong Van An, D.2

Australia

Belgium

Consulate Listings in Ho Chi Minh City

E E S ot sgniht

Taiwan

United States

4 Le Duan, D.1

028 3822 9433

028 3825 1380

028 3911 8304 25 Le Duan, D.1

72 Le Thanh Ton, D.1

XXII

028 3932 7638

028 3962 1745 77 Tran Quoc Thao, D.3

182 Le Dai Hanh, D.11

United Kingdom

Ukraine

028 3519 2334

028 3822 5757 37th Floor, Bitexco, 2 Hai Trieu, D.1

028 3821 9580 Thailand

028 3930 3936 028 3914 2937

107 Nguyen Du, D.1

65 Le Loi, D.1

186 Nguyen Van Huong, D.2

Switzerland

Sweden

South Korea

Singapore

40 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D.3

028 3518 0045 Russia

028 3825 0334

40/5 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh D.

7A Le Thanh Ton, D.1

028 3822 1696

028 3822 6907

028 3823 5932

235 Dong Khoi, D.1

29 Le Duan, D.1

21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D.1

Philippines

Panama

Norway

New Zealand

Netherlands

028 3829 3132

028 3829 7667

2 Ngo Duc Ke, D.1

93 Pasteur, D.1

Malaysia

Laos

Towel Khan tam

Air conditioning May lanh

Adapter Cuc sac

Mobile Phone Dien thoai

Key Chia khoa

Toilet Nha ve sinh

Shower Tam

visual dictionary

ATM ATM

Sim Card Sim card

Battery Pin

Camera May chup hinh

Visual Dictionary

Hotel Khach san

XXIII

Child Seat Ghe tre em

Ambulance Cap cuu

Stamp Con dau

Credit Card The tin dung

need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht

Lettuce Rau diep

Shrimp Tom

need to KNOW

visual dictionary

Pig Heo

Cow Bo

Fish Ca

Massage Massage

Sun Cream Kem chong nang

Beach Bai bien

E E S ot sgniht

Soy Sauce Nuoc tuong

Peanut Dau phong

Coconut Dua

Chilli Ot

XXIV

Fork, Knife, Spoon Nia, dao, muong

Plate Dia

Glass Ly

Ice Nuoc da

need EES tooKNOW t s g n i ht

This era of history ended when Bao Dai, the last emperor from the famous Nguyen Dynasty (18021945), abdicated in 1945.

Monarchy A number of dynasties ruled by Vietnamese kings held sway from 939 AD to 1945. During this period, Vietnam was repeatedly attacked by foreign invaders and the borders flowed back and forth.

Since then, the economy has grown at an annual rate of 7%. In 2000, a bilateral trade agreement between Vietnam and the United States was a significant milestone for Vietnam’s economy.

Doi Moi As the Soviet Union began scaling back its commitments to the rest of the Communist world, Vietnam was forced to follow suit in 1986. Reformist Nguyen Van Linh was chosen to lead the Vietnamese Communist Party, and one of his first acts was to institute a radical economic reform policy: the Doi Moi.

Since 179 BC, Vietnam was ruled by the Chinese Empire for many centuries.

In the third century BC, King An Duong Vuong founded Au Lac and ruled until 179 BC.

Reunification On the first day after the American War, the government changed Saigon’s name to Ho Chi Minh City. Damage from the war was extensive and rebuilding efforts were put in place. A rapid transition to Socialism in the South proved to be a harder task than expected.

American War North Vietnam fought the United States from 1954 until the Americans pulled out in 1975.

French War Vietnam battled French colonialism from 1858 to the August Revolution in 1945. The final victory was secured at the battle of Dien Bien Phu in 1954.

history

Proto-history According to legends, the first Vietnamese Kingdom was founded in the seventh century BC by the Hung Kings and named Van Lang.

Pre-history Ancient Vietnam originated from circa 400,000 years (Paleolithic) to 4,000 years (Neolithic) ago. Early cultures in the area included Son Vi, Hoa Binh, Bac Son, Ha Long and Hoa Loc.

Vietnam’s history can be roughly divided into the following periods:

XXV

KNOW

need to

EOUR E S otTEAM s g n i ht

Welcome to Vietnam

meet the team

Hanoi

Cat Ba Island Vietnam Hoang Sa Archipelago Vietnam

Danang

Phu Quoc Island Vietnam

Saigon Con Dao Island Vietnam

Truong Sa Archipelago Vietnam

What's on the Cover? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------From the ultra-modern skyscrapers emerging all over Saigon and Hanoi to the classic, historical buildings featured on our two covers, Vietnam is a country of beauty and contrasts. In Saigon, a young woman in a contemporary ao dai rides her motorbike past the Notre-Dame Cathedral, an icon of old Saigon and its French history. The woman is effortlessly modern, even as she embodies the traditional spirit of Vietnam. In Hanoi, the Perfume Pagoda, which according to legend was discovered 2000 years ago by a Buddhist monk, acts a background for an elegant woman on her bicycle. The woman is modest and gentle like the traditions of the Buddhists who make a yearly pilgrimage to the Perfume Pagoda. Here’s to the beauty of these two cities, all in the palm of your hand! 2

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OUR TEAM

Patrick Gaveau CEO

Benjamin Giroux

Stefan Georg

Co-Owner

Senior Technical Officer

meet the team

Albus Ha

IT Manager

Huong Pham

Traffic Coordinator

Content Writer

Finance / Admin

Celine Huynh

Hang Luong BD Asisstant

Design Manager

Lien Nguyen

Minh Huynh

Molly Headley-Benkaci

Marketing Assistant

Arik Jahn

Marketing Assistant

Accountant

Hera Nguyen

Nhu Tong

Content Manager

Paul Espinas

Chief Marketing Officer

Sarah Pham

Sales Team Leader

MEET THE TEAM

Thao Dao

Personal Assistant to CEO

Thomas Kervennic

Marketing Coordinator

Tran Ngoc My

Digital Marketing Assistant

Toan Le

Webmaster

Vy Nguyen

Database Assistant

hanoi

3

E E S oHANOI t s g n i ht table of contents

front MATTER 1-12 introduction 8-9 24/48 hours 10-11 quick start 12 things to SEE 13-28 introduction 14 hoan kiem district 15-19 ba dinh district 20-23 ba dinh & dong da districts 24 tay ho district & near by 25-26 nearby & best of 27-28 where to EAT 29-44 introduction 30-31 local 32-34 local & international 35-36 international 37-39 international & bakeries 40 further suggestions 41-44 where to DRINK 45-54 cafĂŠs 46-47 craft beer 48 beer & tea 49 bars & lounges 50-52 live music 54 where to SHOP 55-68 introduction and souvenirs 56 souvenirs 57-62 fashion 63 food & malls 64 food 65 markets 66 shopping streets 67 further suggestions 68

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things HANOI to SEE

things to DO 69-84 70-76 tours 77 for kids 78-79 spas & beauty 80-81 entertainment 82-84 activities

93-101 94-95 96-97 98-99 100-101

where to STAY

table of contents

85-92 86 87-89 90-92

villas & airbnb hotels further suggestions

MAPS hoan kiem & ba dinh districts hai ba trung, hoan kiem & dong da districts ba dinh, dong da & tay ho districts tay ho district

need to KNOW I-XXV II-III vietnam fact sheet IV price guide V climate VI-IX things to keep in mind XI visas and public holidays XII money XIII internet and phone XIV communication XV-XVI health XVII-XX travel XVIII-XXII embassies and consulates XXIII-XXIV visual dictionary XXV history

hanoi

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INNOVO E E S ot sgJSC n i ht info & licence

"We are the most credible content provider in Vietnam, producing locally developed, relevant media with a high client return." 42/37-38 Hoang Dieu St., D4, HCMC +84 28 3825 4316 | info@innovo.vn | www.innovo.vn

Administration & Management Patrick Gaveau | CEO patrick@innovo.vn Thao Dao | Personal Assistant to CEO eam@innovo.vn Celine Huynh | Financer / Admin celine@innovo.vn Minh Huynh | Accountant accountant@innovo.vn

Marketing Paul Espinas | Chief Marketing Officer paul@innovo.vn Thomas Kervennic | Marketing Coordinator cs@innovo.vn Nhu Tong | Marketing Assistant marketing1@innovo.vn Lien Nguyen | Marketing Assistant marketing2@innovo.vn My Tran | Digital Marketing Assistant deals@innovo.vn

Sales Benjamin Giroux | Co-Owner benjamin@innovo.vn Sarah Pham | Sales Team Leader sarah@innovo.vn Hang Luong | BD Assistant aom@innovo.vn

Editorial Molly Headley-Benkaci | Content Manager molly@innovo.vn Arik Jahn | Content Writer arik@innovo.vn Hieu Tran | Content Writer, Hanoi hieu.tran@innovo.vn While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any error or omissions it may contain. No part of this publication may be re-produced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing from the publisher.

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Production Huong Pham | Traffic Coordinator production@innovo.vn Hera Nguyen | Design Manager design@innovo.vn

Information Technology Stefan Georg | Senior Technical Officer stefan@innovo.vn Albus Ha | IT Manager it@innovo.vn Toan Le | Wemaster webmaster@innovo.vn Vy Nguyen | Database Assistant data@innovo.vn

Image Credits Maurice Koop; Bex Walton; Vinh Dao; Pixabay; Chris Goldberg; Atsuko Takagi; Keith Yahl; Department of Tourism; Linh Phanroy; katienordner; joxeankoret; Dennis Jarvis; lightwrite; Paul Arps; Alex Bin; Thai Truong; Thinh Dinh; vietdungbk1984; Quinn R. Mattingly; Prince Roy; Luong Quoc Hung; Matthew Shaw; Shutterstock; Freepick; Thoai Chau Our special thanks goes to the Center for Disability Research and Capacity Development (drdvietnam.org; facebook.com/drdvietnam) and the Bright Future Group's Accessible Tourism Project (dulichtiepcan.com; facebook.com/dulichtiepcan) for providing accessibility information for Saigon and Hanoi.

Hong Duc Publishing House 65 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Publishing Liability: Bui Viet Bac Content Liability: Ly Ba Toan Editor: Phan Thi Ngoc Minh Licence Info: 1198 - 2018/CXBIPH/04 - 22/HÄ? License No.: 649/QÄ?-NXBH Issued on 25 Sep 2018 ISBN: 978-604-89-3553-5 Copies: 30,000; Dimension: 10,5cm x 15cm

HCMC Nhan Dan Newspapar Printing Co.,Ltd D20/532P, Hamlet 4, Binh Chanh Dist., HCMC

things WRITE to SEE sub-section

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hanoi

front E E SMATTER ot sgniht

History… It’s a Long One!

introduction

The location has been inhabited since 3000 BCE. It was established as the capital of Au Lac Kingdom before the country was annexed by the Chinese in 179 BCE. During the thousand years of Chinese occupation the city had a variety of names. The usurpers were finally driven out and Ly Thai To, the first leader of the Ly Dynasty, made the area the imperial capital of Thang Long (Rising Dragon) in 1010. The northern metropolis has been called Hanoi (Between Rivers) since 1831. When the colonial French arrived, they considered the city part of the protectorate of Tonkin, and Hanoi became the capital of French Indochina in 1902. After the defeat of the French at Dien Bien Phu in 1954, Hanoi served as the capital of North Vietnam. At the end of the American War in 1975, it became the capital of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam. Hanoi: No Shortage of Sights and Activities Stylish, romantic and tested by the extremes of its seasonal weather, this is a city bursting with life. Debatably less frenetic than Ho Chi Minh City (though maybe not the traffic), Hanoi has a lower population and is generally considered to be more socially conservative too. However, more and more tourists have been attracted to the modern, vibrant city adorned with numerous ancient monuments, impressive temples, colourful pagodas and colonial architecture. The northern city goes through four distinct seasons, swinging from tropical, humid heat to cool and temperate chills. Hanoi is also a food heaven: there’s an endless supply of eateries, ranging from modest street food vendors to classy, upscale restaurants with views to die for. Experience the full range for a true Hanoian experience.

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thingsMATTER front to SEE introduction

Founding Date: 1010 AD Founder: Ly Thai To Capital Since: 2 September, 1945 Total Area: 3,329km2 Population (2015): 7.56 million Population Density (2015): 2,300/km2 Area Code: 024 Governance: Hanoi People’s Committee Chairman of People’s Committee: Nguyen Duc Chung Districts: 12 urban districts; 1 districtlevelled town; 17 suburban districts. GRDP (2016): $21.2 billion GRDP Per Capita (2015): $2,804 Minimum Wage (2016): $165/month Main Industries: Trade, textiles, tourism, electronics, metallurgy. International Visitors in 2017: Around 5 million. Main Tourist Districts: Hoan Kiem, Ba Dinh, Tay Ho.

Main Attractions: Thang Long Citadel, Temple of Literature, Hoan Kiem Lake, Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Old Quarter. Average Temperature: 23.6 °C / 74 °F Seasons: Spring (Feb-Apr), Summer (May-Aug), Autumn (Sep-Oct), Winter (Nov-Jan). Hottest Month: July (average temperature: 29.5°C / 85.1°F) Coldest Month: January (average temperature: 16.5°C / 61.7°F) Wettest Month: August (average number of rainy days: 16.7) Best Months to Visit: OctoberNovember Number of Registered Motorbikes (2017): 5.5 million Food Specialties: Bun cha (grilled pork and noodles), pho (rice noodle soup). hanoi

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front E E SMATTER ot sgniht

WHAT TO DO IN 24/48 HOURS IN HANOI? Day 1 Morning Strictly for early birds: walk to Hoan Kiem Lake (p. 16) at dawn to watch, and perhaps join, people doing tai chi, samba and line dancing. A cool time for daily constitutionals.

24/48 hours

After exercise, it’s time for a Vietnamese breakfast: pho (p. 30) is available in restaurants all over the city. Try the long-established but nameless eatery at 49 Bat Dan, which always has queues of locals lined up for a bowl. Explore the Old Quarter (p. 17) on foot or on two wheels. This oldest part of the city is a rabbit warren of narrow streets named after the specific trades that congregated there, such as Hang Dao (clothing street). Drop into local temples like Bach Ma (76 Hang Buom) and Huyen Thien (54 Hang Khoai) for some peace in between shopping trips. Maintain your tranquility in the courtyards of the Temple of Literature (p. 24), the country’s first university, established in 1076. Afternoon For lunch, check out a Quan An Ngon (p. 33) – there are four in the city, and all serve the same Vietnamese specialities. Then head to the World Heritage-listed Citadel (p. 21), and explore the reconstructed remains of the 1,300-year-old imperial city of Thang Long. Evening As the sun sets, stroll beside Hoan Kiem Lake. The streets close here at weekends to create a huge pedestrian precinct (p. 16). Join the crowds for a quick walk around the lake. If you’re hungry, grab an Indian dinner with a lakeside view at Foodshop 45 (p. 44).

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thingsMATTER front to SEE

Want a bit of modern Vietnamese culture? Catch the free bus (7:15pm from 3B Le Thai To Street) to the Star Galaxy Theatre (p. 80), which has a regularly changing schedule of contemporary performances.

24/48 hours

Back on the street, head to Summit Lounge (p. 54) at the Pan Pacific Hotel for refreshments, and enjoy the views of the city’s oldest Buddhist temple, Tran Quoc Pagoda (p. 24). Day 2 Morning Start the day with breakfast at Joma Bakery (p. 47). Then visit the ‘Hanoi Hilton’: Hoa Lo Prison (p. 19) is an infamous French colonial jail, complete with an operational guillotine. Afternoon Feeling hungry? Stop at Banh Mi Bao Quyen (8 Cha Ca) for a banh mi. If so inclined, visit the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum (p. 22) to pay your respects to the embalmed father of the nation. Drift with the crowds to the nearby Ho Chi Minh Museum (p. 22) and Presidential Palace (p. 22). Ba Dinh District is also home to embassies and government offices. Now land for an afternoon espresso at the B52 Café (55 Hoang Hoa Tham, Vinh Phu, Ba Dinh), situated next to a small lake containing the remains of a downed American bomber. Evening Fancy a delicious Vietnamese meal? Take a taxi to the authentic favourite Madam Yen Restaurant (p. 42). For after-dinner drinks you can’t beat The Rooftop (p. 51), with its stylish décor and terrace views overlooking the city. Want to change venues? Plenty in the Old Quarter are open until 2:00am at weekends. For something chic and hip, visit Savage (112 Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Tay Ho) in West Lake. hanoi

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front E E SMATTER ot sgniht quick start

QUICK START Also see Need to Know on pages I-XXVI Currency: Vietnamese Dong (VND): $1=VND23,350 (Sep, 2018) €1=VND27,196 ¥1=VND213 £1=VND30,256 AUD1=VND16,843 RUB1=VND374 HKD1=VND2,991 CAD1=VND17,816 Visas: A visa is generally necessary, though there are 15-day visa waivers for several countries. Check beforehand. Apply a month in advance through a travel agency or online visa service. Most citizens of ASEAN member-countries, such as Thailand, Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Cambodia, and Laos do not need a visa for visits of 30 days or less. Money: ATMs of many international banks (HSBC, ANZ) are found all over the city. Credit cards are generally accepted in larger shops and restaurants, but always have cash on hand. Foreign currencies are not accepted. Mobile Phones: The most popular providers are Viettel, Mobifone and Vinaphone. Local SIM cards are cheap, starting at VND150,000 (around $7), even at the airport. Time Zone: Indochina Time Zone (UTC+7 hours)

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Plugs and Adaptors: Commonly 220V, 50Hz. American type A plugs and plugs with two round pins usually work without an adaptor. Tipping: Not expected at street stalls or in small cafés, though fancier bars and restaurants will appreciate it. If there’s no service charge, think about leaving 5-10 percent. Arriving in Hanoi: Noi Bai International Airport (HAN), about 35km northeast of downtown, is the second-largest airport in Vietnam after Tan Son Nhat in Saigon. Write down your hotel’s address in advance and choose one of these options: (1) Catch a Cab. Look out for the white Taxi Group (red stripe), Noibai Taxi (yellow stripe) or the green Mai Linh. Don’t trust any other provider. A ride to your Old Quarter hotel should cost around VND400,000 ($18). (2) Board a Bus. The stop for the Hanoi City buses will be to your right at the international terminal; numbers 86 and 90 go to the city centre and leave every 30 minutes. The trip will take about an hour and will cost VND9,000 ($0.40) for number 90 and VND30,000 ($1.30) for number 86. The attendant at the information counter can tell you how close the route is to your hotel. (3) Grab. If you have a local SIM card, these mobile phone programs are the cheapest options. Beware: many drivers do not speak English.

SEE

hanoi

things to SEE

things to

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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht introduction

Why Those Tiny, Narrow Facades? The distinctive narrow architecture in Vietnam’s urban areas can be traced back four centuries to the Le Dynasty, when great numbers of merchants congregated in towns. Traders were taxed depending on the length of their street frontage, so they developed premises that were narrow, one to two storeys high, and extended back to a series of courtyards. The fronts were used for manufacturing or trading, whilst back sections and upper storeys were the living quarters. Over centuries, styles changed: courtyards became rooms and as building materials improved, more storeys were added. The same general design is still used today, often rising up five or six floors to accommodate multi-generational families or used as small hotels. A few buildings in the Old Quarter, such as the one occupied by Hanoia (p. 68) on Hang Dao, retain the traditional building and courtyard design. Best Places to Catch the Sunset in Hanoi The vividly coloured sunset will likely be the most majestic moment during a day in West Lake. You can leisurely stroll down the beautiful Thanh Nien Street, and stop at The Summit Lounge (p. 54) on the 20th floor of Pan Pacific Hotel for a boundless panoramic view. Those who want a little more adventure and history can head to Long Bien Bridge (p. 17). Looking from afar, you’ll see the iconic, century-old bridge standing in stark contrast against the sky. Head across to immerse yourself in the life of local people who cross the Red River every day.

Attraction Accessible for People with Disabilities

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things to SEE hoan kiem district

District Profile: Hoan Kiem Hoan Kiem, from a geographic, commercial and touristic perspective, is the centre of Hanoi. The district is named after Hoan Kiem Lake, which sits next to the bustling rabbit warren of narrow streets that makes up the Old Quarter. Always busy, the area comes alive at night, especially during weekends when streets become pedestrian precincts, perfect venues for beer drinking and perusing night markets. A number of old temples hidden amongst the crowded streets make for a moment of peace and tranquility from the retail madness. For an even more sobering experience, visit Hoa Lo Prison (p.19). Top Sights

Top Restaurants

Top Bars & Clubs

Hoan Kiem Lake (p. 16)

La Badiane (p. 38)

The Rooftop (p. 51)

Hanoi Opera House (p. 18)

San Ho (p. 42)

La Plume Bar & Lounge (p. 50)

St. Joseph’s Cathedral (p. 18)

Madam Yen Restaurant (p. 42)

The Mad Botanist (p.51) hanoi

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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht

Weekend Walking Streets Around Hoan Kiem Lake City authorities close the streets around Hoan Kiem Lake every weekend from Friday night to Sunday, making it the spot to promenade in Hanoi.

hoan kiem district

It’s busy during the day, but the best time for a stroll is at night. Spotlights accentuate some of the prettiest aspects of the area: trees, historic buildings, bridges, and especially Turtle Tower. There are tug-of-war contests, clowns to meet, electric model cars for kids to drive and artists ready to sketch your portrait for a price. Children can play a game called o an quan, using coloured pebbles placed on a grid drawn on the concrete. Street bands jam in nearby squares playing wellknown hits and musicians in traditional dress play the stringed Vietnamese instrument nhi at incredible speeds, backed by conventional drums and guitar. Many small coffee shops and eateries are dotted around the lake. Some good places to try are: L’étage Café (p. 47) or the coffee chain Highlands Coffee (7 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem), near the fountain, where one can relax whilst watching the passing human parade. Hoan Kiem Lake - Nature In many ways the focal point of the city, the lake sits on the edge of the Old Quarter (p. 17). People congregate here in the early mornings and late afternoons to exercise: young couples stroll handin-hand, joggers run around its perimeter and old ladies practice tai chi. According to legend, a golden turtle god named Kim Qui surfaced in the lake to ask Emperor Le Loi for his magic sword. Local insight: Check out the impromptu waltz classes in the evenings – they’re a joy to watch.

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things to SEE

Old Quarter - Old Town

hoan kiem district

This part of the city’s 1,000-year-old history of commerce is reflected in its street names. Hang means store (p. 67), so each craft area was named after each specialty. In Hang Bac, silversmiths were found; in Hang Dao, silk merchants; and in Hang Mam, customers bought their fish sauce. Much has changed, but shops selling certain items are still grouped together. The area is home to cheap hotels, bars and the occasional temple, making it the go-to spot for backpackers and tourists. Local insight: Traffic here can be hectic. When you’re crossing the street, walk slowly and the bikes will flow around you. Have faith, they really will! Long Bien Bridge - Architecture The name Hanoi means "surrounded by rivers" and the best place to witness that is from this bridge designed by architect Gustave Eiffel of Tower fame. This cantilevered structure was completed in 1902. Connecting Hoan Kiem and Long Bien Districts, it presents stunning vistas of the Red River, which are best viewed from the back of a motorbike! Linking Hoan Kiem & Long Bien Districts

Local insight: The on-ramp is on the bike road near Gam Cau. Follow the train tracks. Ly Thai To Park - Nature It’s easy to miss this small park across from the famous Hoan Kiem Lake– you won’t find grass here, only stone pavers and a huge statue of King Ly Thai To, the founder of the Ly Dynasty and the ruler who moved the capital to Hanoi. Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem

Local insight: Originally designed by the French, the landscape previously featured its own Statue of Liberty, named the Statue of Madame Saux. hanoi

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Hanoi Opera House - Architecture

hoan kiem district

Built between 1901 and 1911, the design was based on the Palais Garnier, the older of Paris’ two main opera houses. Also known as Nha Hat Lon, this impressive building is a true cultural and historical landmark in the capital city. It hosts numerous performances, and day visitors are allowed to see inside. 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem

Local insight: Find time to see a show! Purchase a balcony seat to get the full experience. Quan Su Pagoda - Temple Also known as the Ambassador’s Pagoda, it’s the headquarters of the Buddhist Association of Vietnam. Although it doesn’t boast a long history or impressive architecture, it’s one of Hanoi’s treasures and a hub of religious activity. When most of the pagodas were burned down at the end of the Le Dynasty, Quan Su was saved for posterity. 73 Quan Su, Hoan Kiem

Local insight: It contains a wax statue of a former Association Vice President that is creepily lifelike and made in Thailand. St. Joseph’s Cathedral - Church This 130-year old neo-gothic edifice is the oldest Roman Catholic church in Hanoi, complete with beautiful, soaring architecture and stained glass windows. Everyone stops here – enjoy some prime people watching and photobomb a few pictures. 40 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem

Local insight: When it was constructed by the French, workers demolished a much older place of worship – the Bao Thien Pagoda, built in the 12th century! 18

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things to SEE

National Museum of History - History With an extensive collection of over 7,000 ancient historical artifacts, this museum is worth visiting. Don’t miss the bronze Dong Son drums and 2,500-year-old coffin canoe. Be sure to visit the Vietnam Museum of Revolution afterwards for more modern history – it’s just across the street.

hoan kiem district

216 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem

Local insight: The café in the courtyard is a nice place to grab a coffee or beer. Vietnamese Women’s Museum - History Over 25,000 objects and materials are on display here, all related to the role of women during wartime and in contemporary society. 36 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem

Local insight: Fashionistas will rejoice here. A wide variety of costumes and clothing are showcased. Police Museum - History This museum, covering the history of Hanoi’s police forces since 1945, is worth some time. Fans of detective stories will enjoy the displayed documentation of some solved crime cases. Exhibit placards are in Vietnamese, French and English. 67 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem

Local insight: Ask for a free museum tour, usually offered in excellent English. Hoa Lo Prison - History What remains within this prison are curated and sometimes-chilling displays of its past as a prison for Vietnamese patriots, including a rusty guillotine. Later, American POWs referred to it as the ‘Hanoi Hilton’. 1 Hoa Lo, Hoan Kiem

Local insight: American Senator John McCain was a prisoner here for six years. hanoi

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tEhings E S ottosgSEE n i ht ba dinh district

District Profile: Ba Dinh Ba Dinh is the political centre of Hanoi, home to government offices and foreign embassies. Formerly known as the French Quarter, the district has wide boulevards and large, colonial-style mansions. Uncrowded streets make it easy to walk to old and new edifices, including the monolithic Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Tran Quoc Pagoda, Cot Co Tower, Uncle Ho’s House, the Presidential Palace and the Lenin Monument. The Ly kings established their imperial city of Thang Long here in the eleventh century. The last vestige of this is the reconstructed Thang Long Citadel, where Ho Chi Minh announced independence in 1945. Visit and get an important history lesson! Top Sights Temple of Literature (p. 24)

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Top Bars & Clubs Top of Hanoi, Lotte Hotel (p. 54)

One Pillar Pagoda (p. 23)

Top Restaurants Quan An Ngon (p.33) Seasons of Hanoi (p. 42)

Museum of Fine Arts (p. 23)

Ming Restaurant (p. 37)

Hanoi Night Club (p. 54)

citypassguide.com

Ay Lounge (p.52)

things to SEE

Ancient Citadel - Historical Site

ba dinh district

While digging the foundation for a new National Assembly building in 2002, workers unearthed remnants of a much older site – Thang Long, an imperial city dating back 1,300 years, and the precursor to modern-day Hanoi. It was further discovered that an even older foundation rested beneath Thang Long: a seventh-century Chinese fortress. This site was given the honour of becoming a World Cultural Heritage Site in 2010. It's a must-see for anyone interested in ancient civilisations. 18 Hoang Dieu, Ba Dinh. Closed on Mondays.

Local insight: Be sure to check out the modestlooking building where communists secretly held meetings during the American War. Art Galleries in Hanoi Vietnam’s 54 ethnic groups have developed a variety of traditional art forms. But that doesn’t mean Hanoi doesn’t have contemporary art as well. The Museum of Fine Arts (p. 23) is naturally the first port of call. A more laid-back alternative is Manzi Art Space (p. 47), a combined gallery, café and bar in a restored French villa, which exhibits a range of styles. Head to the Apricot Gallery (40 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem) to get a glimpse of local paintings and sculptures. The ground floor of the Hanoi Old Quarter Exchange Centre (50 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem) has ever-changing exhibitions of traditional crafts and contemporary designs. Alternatively, check out the massive Vincom Centre for Contemporary Art (VCCA), part of the Royal City Megamall (p. 64). This not-for-profit centre changes exhibitions every season. 19 Ngoc Ha, Ba Dinh. Hours: 8:00am-11:00am. Closed on Mondays & Fridays. hanoi

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Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum - Historical Site

ba dinh district

Located next to the huge square in the heart of Ba Dinh District, queues to see the embalmed body of modern Vietnam’s founder never seem to shorten. Visitors move steadily through the monument, passing ‘Uncle Ho’, who lies in a glass sarcophagus guarded by four soldiers in smart white uniforms. Keep in mind that its hours are 8:00am to 11:30am – if you show up after lunch, you’ll be out of luck. 19 Ngoc Ha, Ba Dinh. 8:00am-11:00am Closed on Mondays & Fridays.

Local insight: Every year the body travels to Moscow for ‘maintenance’. Ho Chi Minh’s House - Historical Site A traditional house built in 1958 for then-president Ho Chi Minh, who apparently preferred this modest abode over the opulent Presidential Palace next door. The simple residence contains just a bedroom and a study, set off the ground on stilts, reflecting his humble preferences. The nearby garden and pond provide welcome moments of peace and quiet. 1 Bach Thao, Ba Dinh. Closed on Mondays & Fridays.

Local insight: Clap your hands above the pond to summon the carp to the surface. Ho Chi Minh Museum - History Near Ba Dinh Square, this museum depicts the revolutionary struggle and life of ‘Uncle Ho’. While there's a clear lack of English information, it’s worth visiting its spectacular third floor, which houses an eclectic mix of surreal giant fruit sculptures and photographs of Ho Chi Minh’s life. 19 Ngoc Ha, Ba Dinh. Closed on Mondays & Fridays.

Local insight: Even if you find the museum a bit mixed up, it has a good gift shop! 22

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things to SEE

Fine Arts Museum - Arts

First opened in 1966, this museum showcases traditional and contemporary Vietnamese art. It’s also the country’s main art museum, the sister museum is stationed in Ho Chi Minh City. Explore the various exhibits, including an array of impeccably crafted 1,000-year-old silk paintings.

ba dinh district

66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh

Local insight: Many paintings were kept safe in storage during the American War, and temporarily replaced with copies. One Pillar Pagoda - Temple An iconic image of Hanoi, Chua Mot Cot is a rather small wooden temple built on a single pillar in the middle of a lotus pond. A pagoda has stood here since 1049. Entry is free, and you can visit from 8:00am to 5:00pm. Be sure to dress conservatively to climb the stairs. Chua Mot Cot, Ba Dinh

Local insight: It is, in fact, a replica. The last one was vandalised and burned by French forces when they retreated from Hanoi in 1954. Quan Thanh Temple - Temple Built in the 11th century, this is one of Hanoi’s oldest temples and has been renovated numerous times. Located near West Lake, its name means “place of the gods”. Renowned for its unique architecture and famous bronzes, believers worship one of the four holy figures, all of which guard the cardinal points of the city. Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh

Local insight: Adherents of vo co truyen, a martial art that incorporates elements of Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism, train in the courtyard. hanoi

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Tran Quoc Pagoda - Temple

ba dinh/dong da districts

Hanoi’s oldest Buddhist pagoda sits on a small penisula on the East shore of West Lake. The pagoda dates back to the sixth century and is known for its intricate architectural designs. The fig tree growing in the garden is a reputed scion of the original Bodhi tree under which Buddha achieved enlightenment. Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh

Local insight: If you decide to burn incense here, do so in odd numbers, which are believed to be lucky in Chinese and Vietnamese cultures. Cot Co Tower - Architecture A modern-day construction, this three-tiered flag tower was built by the French in 1905. A part of the Military Museum, it offers views of the rebuilt, once-mighty Hanoi Citadel and the nearby statue of Lenin. 28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh

Local insight: The 36 flower-shaped and 6 fanshaped windows catch the sun beautifully. Temple of Literature - Historical Site Built in 1070, this complex of buildings was established in 1076 as Vietnam’s first university, where the elite were educated until 1779. The site features five courtyards and a small museum. Check out the stone stelae, where graduates who passed the notoriously difficult “mandarin” exams have their names engraved. Be sure to rub the stone turtles for good luck and smile at the traditionally dressed attendants who flank each courtyard gate. 58 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da

Local insight: Today, students come here to pray for good grades before exams and pose for pictures after graduation. 24

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things to SEE tay ho district

District Profile: Tay Ho Wrapped around Hanoi’s largest freshwater lake, Tay Ho District is a long walk, or a 15-minute drive, north of the Old Quarter. A high-end residential area where Vietnamese royals used to summer, its shops and wide streets cater to locals as much as tourists. It’s a more laid-back part of the city with many cafés and restaurants that take advantage of views over the expansive West Lake. It’s home to more than 20 temples and pagodas, making it a perfect place to come for a bit of peace and quiet and maybe a walk around the lake – although make sure you’ve warmed up first, because the circumference is around 18km! Top Sights & Activities West Lake (p. 25)

Top Bars & Clubs Sunset BAR (p. 54)

Tay Ho Temple (p. 26)

Top Restaurants MAD society (p. 39) Soft Water (p. 43)

Truc Bach Water Park (p. 84)

Foodshop 45 (p. 44)

Chez Xuan Garden Bar (p. 54)

The Summit (p.54)

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Tay Ho Temple - Temple

This Buddhist temple dates back many centuries. Dedicated to Thanh Mau (Mother of the Nation) and, secondarily, to the Jade Emperor, it's crowded on the first and fifteenth days of each lunar month by people seeking good fortune. Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho.

5:00am-7:00pm. Free entry.

tay ho district/near by

Local insight: Water snails dredged from nearby lakes are sold at many of the stalls outside the temple. Ethnology Museum - History Dedicated to Vietnam’s 54 recognised ethnic groups, this museum also doubles as a research centre. Outside, take a look at the full-sized replicas of traditional architectural styles. 9.1 km from Hanoi's Old Quarter, Nguyen Van Huyen, Cau Giay. Closed on Mondays.

Local insight: The museum hosts an outdoor water puppet theatre. Great for kids! Hanoi Museum - History Shaped like an inverted pyramid, this four-storey museum, opened to mark the capital’s millennial anniversary in 2010, is Hanoi’s largest. Displays cover the history of Vietnam, featuring everything from ornamental trees to 600-year-old weapons. 9.1 km from Hanoi's Old Quarter, Pham Hung, Nam Tu Liem

Local insight: The museum is wheelchair-friendly. Co Loa Citadel & An Duong Vuong Temple Historical Site

This ancient citadel was commissioned by King An Duong Vuong and the adjoinging temple was built in his honour. Only the outer walls and the citadel remain. Relics from the Bronze Age have been found here. 16km north of Hanoi's Old Quarter

Local insight: The Co Loa Festival is held annually after Tet to honour its namesake king. 26

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Best Awe-Inspiring Spots

Place of Excursions

The name says it all: Top of Hanoi (p. 54). True 360-degree views. Enjoy the night-time cityscape at The Rooftop (p. 51) Try the Block House Café (p, 47). It’s an old antiaircraft bunker, minus the gun! Beautiful views over West Lake.

A mecca for all things silk, this village, is the place for fabric, clothing and scarves, sold at prices cheaper than in the city. The selection is excellent and it’s a great half-day trip out.

Local insight: There are no official hours, most shops are closed on Sundays. Bat Trang Ceramics Village Place of Excursions

Located in a clay-rich area an hour from the Old Quarter (p. 17), most pottery and porcelain sold has actually been imported from elsewhere. Try making your own pottery, or just enjoy a break from the city. Bat Trang Commune, Gia Lam

Local insight: Check for the Bat Trang stamp to guarantee your ceramics were produced in the village. Perfume Pagoda - Temple This complex of pagodas and shrines dating from the 15th century was built directly into Huong Tich Mountain. Many think that Buddha once paused by the river to wash himself clean of the dust of humanity. Expect crowds from January to April, during the Chua Huong Festival. Huong Son, My Duc

Local insight: Although most pagodas are Buddhist, some are animist.

Best Photo-Op Want a great sunset shot? Head across the Red River to one of the riverside restaurants along Ngoc Lam Street. Have a beer next to the water and watch the sun set over iconic Long Bien Bridge (p. 17).

near by/best of

On the Nhue River, 10 km southwest of Hanoi Old Quarter

things to SEE

Van Phuc Village

Best Green Spots Stop at the Botanical Gardens (3 Hoang Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh), 100 years old and still going strong. Wander through the open spaces near Lenin Park in Ba Dinh District (p. 20). A walk around Hoan Kiem Lake (p. 16) is a must. Delightfully romantic. Explore the wholesale flower market Cho Hoa Quang An (p. 66). Come in the early morning, before all the blooms are gone. Best Rest Spots Contemplate the finer things in one of the Temple of Literature (p. 24) courtyards. Take a rest in Quan Thanh Temple (p. 23) and get some Taoist luck. Gaze at amazing stained glass in Catholic serenity at St. Joseph’s Cathedral (p. 18). Treat yourself to some pampering at Sofitel Metropole (p. 88). hanoi

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Best Oddities Learn some traditional morality tales at the Water Puppet Theatre (p. 81). Explore the remains of a downed American bomber at B52 Café (55 Hoang Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh).

best of

Best Historical Sights A thousand years of education is honoured at the Confucian Temple of Literature (p. 24). Inspect the rebuilt Ancient Citadel (p. 21), the centre of the old imperial city of Thang Long. Drop in on a guillotine at Hoa Lo Prison (p. 19). Pay your respects to the embalmed leader on show at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum (p. 22). Best Museums Learn about Vietnam’s 54 ethnic groups at the Ethnology Museum (p. 26). The roles of traditional and contemporary women are celebrated at the Museum of Vietnamese Women (p. 19). Admire the best of contemporary and traditional Vietnamese art at the Fine Arts Museum (p. 23). Best Temples and Pagodas Hanoi’s oldest: Tran Quoc Pagoda (p. 24). Lakeside real estate: Tay Ho Temple (p. 26). Check out the Banyan tree. Buddhism central: Quan Su Pagoda (p. 18). Best at Night Activities Join families, lovers, musicians and street performers at Hoan Kiem Lake (p. 16). The premier place to promenade. A part of the Old Quarter – Hang Dao, Hang Ngang and Hang Duong streets – closes on weekend nights to become a Night Market (p. 67). Local Tip Hanoi’s Railway Hamlet (Phung Hung Street) has become a favourite among tourists. A residential area and railway track all at once, the Reunification Express runs through here – just inches away from people’s doorsteps!

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where to

EAT

hanoi

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w EE here S ottosgEAT n i ht

Restaurant Price Guide (per meal) $ - up to VND199,000

$$ - VND200,000-499,000

$$$ - VND500,000 & above

introduction

At the centre of the Northern Delta, Hanoi is where you can taste many different cuisines of the region, from the mountains to the coasts. French influences and new waves of expats coming from around the world have also brought some of the finest international cuisines to the capital’s dining scene. Street Food

$

Come to Hanoi and your knowledge of Vietnamese street food will be forever altered, since the versions of pho and banh mi you’ve probably had come from the Southern cookbook. Conveniently, almost all the best street food vendors have set up shop within or near the Old Quarter (p. 17). Pho Pho has been a popular street food in Hanoi since the 1920s. Today the Northern version of the soup consists of beef broth, rice noodles, thinly sliced onions, spring onions and, of course, lots of beef or chicken. You can add lime, vinegar or chili sauce to it, and try dipping in some quay (fried breadstick). Compared to pho in the South, the soup here is more spare, generally served without the abundance of greens you’ll get in Saigon. Price on the Street: VND50,000 Where to Try It: Pho 10, 10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem D. Pho Suong, 24B Ngo Trung Yen, Hoan Kiem

Bun Cha A distant cousin of the Southern bun thit nuong, also including grilled pork and rice vermicelli, bun cha originated from and remains popular in Hanoi. You’ll find two types of pork floating 30

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Banh Cuon This light dish is commonly eaten for breakfast, made from a thin steamed rice sheet filled with minced pork and wood ear mushroom, then topped with fried shallots. Side dishes vary; the most popular is cha que – Vietnamese pork sausage with a dash of cinnamon. Price on the Street: VND30,000 Where to Try It: Banh Cuon Ba Hanh, 26B Tho Xuong, Hoan Kiem D.

Pho Cuon This modern-day twist on noodles and beef quickly became popular due to the dish’s harmony of flavours and simple preparation. Cooks use unsliced rice noodle as the wrapper for stir-fried beef, lettuce and cilantro; pho cuon is a delightful roll to enjoy on a sunny day. Price on the Street: VND50,000 (10 rolls) Where to Try It: Pho Cuon Huong Mai, 25-27 Ngu Xa, Ba Dinh D.

Xoi Xoi means steamed sticky rice, but it is the additional ingredients that

Price on the Street: VND35,000 Where to Try It: Xoi Van, 216 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem D.

Local insight: Pay attention to the various sauces and side dishes on the table – locals use them to add more flavour to the dish. Go ahead and alter your serving to your own tastes!

introduction

Price on the Street: VND30,000 Where to Try It: Bun Cha Hang Quat, 74 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem D. Bun Cha Mai Hac De, 47C Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung D.

make it shine. Vegetarians will drool over the savoury green bean paste and fried shallots added to the rice to make the yellow xoi xeo. Meat lovers should choose the xoi served with braised pork belly, paté, pork floss and Chinese sausage.

things to EAT where SEE

in the broth: pork belly and pork meatball, served with pickled vegetables and fresh herbs. Fried crab spring rolls (nem) are optional but recommended.

Cha Ca This Hanoian delicacy is found in restaurants around the city, but travelers still seek out the humble house where it was created, on the street now called Cha Ca. A special catfish from the Red River, grilled with turmeric and galangal, then fried with dill and green onion, and served with rice vermicelli and shrimp paste, is what it takes for a one-of-a-kind harmony of flavors. Price on the Street: VND150,000 Where to Try It: Cha Ca La Vong, 14 Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem D. 107 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh D.

Local insight: Pay attention to the various sauces and side dishes on the table – locals use them to add more flavour to the dish. Go ahead and alter your serving to your own tastes! hanoi

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w EE here S ottosgEAT n i ht local

Daring Food Vietnamese cuisine includes meats typically not found on a Western plate, so you’ll probably find many of the options here exotic. Pigeons are served in cafés that commonly offer noodles or porridge. Under the bridge on Gam Cau Street (Hoan Kiem D.) you’ll find well-known small stalls that sell grilled meat of all sorts: ‘regular’ cuts, intestines, udders and other body parts. Do you have the guts? Want a ‘different’ taste? Try insects: cockroaches, cicadas and other species, usually deep fried and crunchy, can be purchased from street vendors. Check Quan Kien (143 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho D.). Give their fried ant dish a shot! Take a quick trip out of the city to taste snake meat: Le Mat Village, in a suburb about 7km from the centre of Hanoi, has a history of snake catching and breeding. 32

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The complete experience involves drinking the fresh blood and bile (in separate glasses!), usually cut with vodka and swallowed with the still-beating heart of the unfortunate snake. This meal is considered a virility-promoting man’s dish. Another unique culinary option is century eggs, preserved in clay, ash, salt and quicklime to give them a dark appearance and pungent smell. They can be found in small local markets such as Cho Nghia Tan (2 Nghia Tan, Cau Giay D.). Don’t eat them raw! Mix one with a bowl of congee or some tofu. Last on our list is dog meat. Thit cho, is regularly eaten throughout the country, often at the end of the lunar month prior to the Tet holiday to appease bad-luck spirits. If you want to try, you’ll find it in restaurants that specialise only in dog, cooked in a variety of interesting dishes. Check Mo Hoa (89 Nguyen Khang, Cau Giay D.).

things to EAT where SEE

Ngon Pho - Vietnamese $-$$ Ngon Pho provides quality street food in luxurious surroundings. They opened their first restaurant in 2015. Combining the very best of traditional cuisine from Hanoi, Hoi An and Saigon, all three of their critically acclaimed restaurants serve Vietnam's most famous street food.

local

T345, 3rd Floor, AEON Mall Long Bien, 27 Co Linh 59 Huynh Thuc Khang 8 Da Tuong 09 0324 6963 10:00am-10:00pm

Local insight: Try their Lau Tom Ngon Pho, an excellent take on this superb prawn hotpot. Quan An Ngon - Vietnamese $$ This well-established restaurant chain is filled with traditional Vietnamese themes. They serve a wide selection of domestic cuisine from around the country, and have been voted as one of the best restaurants in Asia for many years. 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem D. 25T2 Hoang Dao Thuy, Cau Giay D. B2-R6 Vincom Royal City, Hoan Kiem D. 09 0324 6963 7:00am-10:00pm quananngon.com.vn

Local insight: Try their banh xeo, it's a popular rice pancake stuffed with slivers of fatty pork, shrimp, diced green onion and bean sprouts. Tomato Seafood - Vietnamese $-$$ Travellers looking for a truly Vietnamese dinner shouldn't miss out on this local favourite for first-rate seafood. Given the quality you get, prices are very reasonable. This restaurant serves various kinds of flavourful seafood like oysters, clams, prawns, green crabs, fish, mantis shrimp and sea snails. 33 Nguyen Thi Dinh, Cau Giay D. 9:00am-11:00pm 82 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung D. 09 8569 9148 tomato.hanoiseafood@gmail.com

Local insight: You have to try the Ca Mau Crab and their delicious signature spicy sauce! hanoi

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local

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Following your dietary requirements in Hanoi won’t be as hard as it seems thanks to the city’s diverse cuisines.

Vegetarian restaurants vary widely from family-run eateries to fine-dining establishments. Uu Dam Chay (p. 35) sets itself apart as a gourmet restaurant with unique décor, while An Lac Chay (109 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem) offers a vegetarian buffet at a reasonable price. If you’re in the mood for a simpler meal, Aummee (26 Chau Long, Ba Dinh) and White Cloud (p. 35) are

Vegan diners will find an interesting mix of Western and Vietnamese dishes at Jalus Vegan Kitchen (46 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem) and Minh Chay (9 Au Trieu. Hoan Kiem). Hanoi also has a few of the internationally based Loving Hut restaurants: check out 147B Au Co, Tay Ho and 192/4 Quan Thanh. But the real hidden treasure is undoubtedly Vegan Street Food (66B Tran Hung Dao), where you can try banh mi and other Vietnamese on-the-go dishes (p. 30) the way they’re traditionally served.

local/international

Halal restaurants are dominant in the Indian food scene. For a taste of Royal Indian cuisine visit Dalcheeni (p.44), while the nearby Nan n Kabab Halal Restaurant (49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho) takes you to North India. Khazaana Halal Indian Restaurant (34 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem), Namaste (46 Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem) and Little India (32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem) are other famous restaurants for your curry fix. Yet another branch of Halal restaurants comes from Singapore and Malaysia, including the RedHouse (6A Ham Long, Hoan Kiem), d’Lions (p. 35) . More unique dishes can be found at Baghdad (65 Hang Bun, Ba Dinh), which serves Halal Arabic food, and Juni’s Kitchen (p. 44), the only Indonesian restaurant in town.

the best options.

things to EAT where SEE

Where to Eat Halal / Vegetarian / Vegan

Halal/Vegetarian Restaurants d’Lions - Halal

$-$$

The Cosiana Hotel’s restaurant serves Singaporean and Malaysian cuisines alongside halal Vietnamese dishes. 92 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem D.

Uu Dam Chay - Vegetarian

$$-$$$

Housed in a remodeled Frenchcolonial villa, this gem is one of the few fine-dining vegan restaurants in Hanoi. All ingredients are 100 percent animal product-free. 34 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem D.

White Cloud - Vegetarian

$$

This restaurant serves a range of Vietnamese and Pacific Rim classics with modern twists. 299 Au Co, Tay Ho D. hanoi

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Best Spots for a Business Lunch There are innumerable lunch establishments in Hanoi – make your choice based on what impression you want to make.

local/international

You’ll find an international range of restaurants in hotels like the swanky Sofitel Metropole (p. 88), which offers venues like the French-inspired Le Beaulieu (15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem). Or you could try one of the restaurants at the spectacular JW Marriott Hotel (p. 87) – perhaps some Chinese fare at their Crystal Jade Palace (8 Do Duc Duc, Tu Liem)? If you prefer Vietnamese cuisine at a reasonable price, you can’t go wrong with the four Quan An Ngon restaurants (p. 33) scattered across the city. If you want to combine a scenic view with Western and Vietnamese dining options, take a look at Buffet Sen Tay Ho (614 Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho). One of the best places for a pizza or any manner of Italian fare is Japanese-run Pizza 4P’s (p. 43) which, serves absolutely delicious food made with fresh, organic produce. It’s a popular place, so it’s best to book in advance. If the tastes of you or your guests stretch to the Indian subcontinent why not try Dalcheeni (p. 44)? Green Tangerine The Green Tangerine is a multi award winning gourmet restaurant offering a unique culinary experience. Located in the heart of Hanoi, in a colonial villa from 1928, the restaurant features a tranquil garden and surroundings. Come and savor their menus combining flavours of French cuisine and Vietnamese spices. 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem D. 024 3942 4509 11:00am-11:00pm greentangerinehanoi.com contact@greentangerinehanoi.com

Local insight: Discover their fusion menus with a delicious selection of East meets West dishes. 36

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things to EAT where SEE

Chinese Dumplings

international

A thousand years of Chinese occupation ended long ago, but Vietnam’s northern neighbour still influences many aspects of life in the country, including the food. Chinese dumplings take many different forms and can consist of many different ingredients. In Vietnam they’re called banh goi and usually contain a mixture of pork and mushrooms, which is then coated in sesame seeds and fried. Try Banh Goi at 52 Ly Quoc Su for these. While they’re available in restaurants, it’s more fun to get the steamed variety, banh cuon, at local street vendors. Often wrapped in banana leaves, other ingredients include quail eggs and noodles, and they are best accompanied by a sweet-andsour dipping sauce. Sweeter versions include minced mung beans. Try Banh Cuon Co Beo on Hang Than Street. Other well-reputed dumpling outlets not to be missed are Crystal Jade Palace (8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, South Tu Liem) and Bun Bo Nam Bo (67 Hang Dieu) Ming Restaurant - Chinese

$$-$$$

The 5-star Ming Restaurant offers some of the best Cantonese delicacies to be had in Hanoi, along with an elegant Asian setting. The large windows provide a great view of the hotel’s peaceful gardens for each and every table, so no matter where you sit you'll be guaranteed a great view. Pan Pacific Hotel, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh D.

Tim Ho Wan - Chinese

$$

Dim sum restaurant with gorgeous views of the skyline from the 36th floor of the Lotte Hotel (p. 90) 54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh D. hanoi

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La Badiane - French

$$$

Launched in 2008, La Badiane provides a true feeling of intimacy and elegance, and focuses on fusion food and gastronomy. Chef Benjamin Rascalou’s dishes are the outcome of an encounter between continents and cultures: a subtle mix of scents, tastes and spices.

international

10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem D. 024 3942 4509 labadiane-hanoi.com labadiane.booking@gmail.com 11:30am-2:00pm / 6:00pm-9:45pm Closed Sunday.

Local insight: Exceptional food, attentive service, freshly redecorated. Maison Vie Restaurant - French

$-$$

Nestled in the heart of Hanoi, you’ll find authentic and delicious French food at Maison Vie Restaurant. Designed in an elegant neoclassical style, French master chef Thierry Panner excels at delivering exquisite French cuisine. 024 3633 0206 – 09 0415 0383 10:00am–10:00pm info@maisonvie.vn 28 Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung D. maisonvie.vn

Local insight: If you’re looking for a special date night, reserve a table on their small balcony – it’s sure to impress! The Clover at Ngoc Thuy - French

$$-$$$

Located a short distance from the city centre, The Clover at Ngoc Thuy offers innovative French contemporary cuisine with an elegant indoor ambiance or an outdoor garden setting. The restaurant also features a rooftop terrace bar with expansive views of the Hanoi city skyline and historic Long Bien Bridge. 14, Lane 53, Ngoc Thuy, Long Bien D. 024 3969 6333 enquiry@thecloveratngocthuy.com thecloveratngocthuy.com 11:30 AM – 11:00 PM

Local insight: Extensive and selective wine list with inhouse wine expert to recommend food and wine pairing. 38

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things to EAT where SEE international

MAD Society - Asian

$-$$

Its name is both evocative of the high delight of the roaring ‘20s as well as an acronym: “MAD” here means “Modern Asian Dining”, a genre that covers the restaurant’s famous phoritto and their Vietnamese fish tacos as well as other culinary food experiments. Come for the contemporary Asian tapas with various wines but stay for the art deco design motif and pool bar. There are 200 types of whiskey in the Tay Ho District restaurant because modern people should never be thirsty. 4F Somerset West Point, No.2 Tay Ho, Quang An, Tay Ho D. hello.madsociety@gmail.com +84 24 3200 6881or +84 166 509 6060

Local insight: For a traditional meal, try the bun cha, which has pork marinated in a secret sauce and chargrilled lemongrass. hanoi

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w EE here S ottosgEAT n i ht international/bakeries

Skyline Lounge International

$$-$$$

Hidden away on top of Tirant Hotel, the three-floor Skyline Lounge offers sweeping 360-degree views of Hanoi, including the city's famed Hoan Kiem Lake (p. 16). The lounge also has poolside seating and a private indoor room for events. 38 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem D.

Bakeries and Traditional Sweet Treats Hanoi’s bakeries have flourished since the French colonial era. Go to Saint Honoré (5 Xuan Dieu; 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem), O’Douceurs (37/52 To Ngoc Van), S’Patisserie (17 Hang Khay, Hoan Kiem) or Chez Moi (19 Ngo Hang 40

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Chao, Dong Da) and you’ll feel like you’re having a sweet treat in Paris. If you’re looking for something from the other side of the Atlantic, Joma Bakery Café (p. 47) is the best choice. As for local delicacies, Nguyen Ninh (11 Hang Than) is famous for banh com, a greencoloured rice dessert, while Gia Trinh Bakery (16A Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem) offers a variety of traditional delicacies, such as sesame rice balls and colourful cakes made from natural ingredients. Madame Huong (39 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem) bakery serves up traditional specialty cakes for all occasions. For a truly luxurious chocolate experience try Maison Marou (91A Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem).

things to EAT where SEE international

La Badiane

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Vietnamese Restaurants $$-$$$ Grandma’s Restaurant - Vietnamese The newly opened and highly rated Grandma’s Restaurant treats you to an authentic Northern Vietnamese culinary experience in a cosy atmosphere.

6A Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem D.

further suggestions

Indochine - Vietnamese $-$$ This restaurant has a friendly atmosphere and sports a menu with more than 100 traditional Vietnamese dishes. 38 Thi Sach, Hai Ba Trung D.

Madam Yen Restaurant - Vietnamese $-$$ Among the top favourites for its local cuisine served in an elegant old house. 99A Hang Gi, Hoan Kiem D.

Nam Phuong - Vietnamese $$-$$$ Exquisite Vietnamese dishes with vegetarian options available. The food isn’t cheap, so come here for a special dinner. Try the signature softshell crab. 19 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem D.

Old Hanoi Restaurant - Vietnamese $$ Vietnamese specialties paired with rice wine. Gordon Ramsay approved. Come for the weekly cooking classes. 4 Ton That Thiep, Ba Dinh D.

San Ho - Vietnamese $$$ San Ho is a three-floor traditional Vietnamese eatery in the setting of a luxurious castle. A fresh selection of local seafood made by highly experienced chefs makes this an address to remember. 58 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem D.

Seasons of Hanoi - Vietnamese $$ Its graceful interiors will let you picture Hanoi a century ago as you savour delectable Vietnamese cuisine. 95B Quan Thanh, Hoan Kiem D. 42

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things to EAT where SEE

Softwater - Vietnamese $$-$$$ Savoury Vietnamese fare in a tranquil garden overlooking the Red River. They often host wedding ceremonies. 42 Road 9, F361 An Duong, Tay Ho D.

further suggestions

Wild Rice - Vietnamese $-$$ This restaurant serves a range of Vietnamese and Pacific Rim classics with modern twists. 6 Ngo Thi Nham, Hoan Kiem D.

International Restaurants French Grill - French $$$ Renowned for French cuisine cooked by a Michelinstarred chef. At JW Marriott Hotel (p. 87). 8 Do Duc Duc, Nam Tu Liem D.

Green Tangerine - French $$$ We apologize for the incorrect information in the 19th edition and we would want to rectify Green Tangerine’s information as below: Delectable French cuisine in the heart of Hanoi, the restaurant is popular with travellers and locals for good food and wine in a cosy and antique setting. 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem D.

Kobala Bar -Rooftop Restaurant $-$$ An interesting menu of Thai, Vietnamese and French dishes, accompanied by great music and views. 13 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho D.

Pizza 4P's - Pizza & Pasta $$ This Japanese-Italian restaurant from Saigon will win your heart! Creative pizzas. 24 Ly Quoc Su - 43 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem D.

Black Jack's - American $$ The cheeseburger, ribs and chicken wings are some favourites. Plus, they have Mexican food. 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem D. hanoi

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Jackson's Steakhouse - Western $$$ Excellent Western fare in the middle of the Old Quarter (p. 17). Leave space for dessert! 23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem D.

Khang Japanese Restaurant - Japanese $-$$ Traditional Japanese restaurant serving fresh food prepared to order in a nice atmosphere.

further suggestions

322 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung D.

Kimono - Japanese $-$$ Sushi-go-round buffet or Ă la carte dining made with fresh ingredients flown in weekly from Japan. 52-54 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem D.

Dalcheeni - Indian $-$$ Specialised in royal Indian cuisine. The quality of food and service here is unmatched in Hanoi. 100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho D.

Foodshop 45 - Indian $-$$ Overlooking Truc Bach Lake, this restaurant offers a great variety of Indian dishes and a lovely ambience. 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh D.

Don Chicken - Korean $-$$ Treat yourself to the signature Korean Spicy Grilled Chicken or Grilled Chicken with Garlic. Tasty with beer. 250 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem D.

Mi Han Quoc - Korean $$ Traditional Korean cuisine at its best, with fantastic views over the Old Quarter. 4th floor, 3-5-7 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem D.

Juni’s Kitchen - Indonesian $-$$ Hidden behind the Red River Tea Room pub, this cosy restaurant serves authentic Indonesian food. 19 Xom Chua Kim Lien, Alley 1 Au Co, Tay Ho D. 44

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where to

DRINK

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where E E StooDRINK t s g n i ht

Clubs, Bars & Cafes Price Guide (per drink) $ - up to VND99,000

$$ - VND100,000-199,000

$$$ - VND200,000 & above

An Enduring Coffee Culture

cafes

In Hanoi there are a few different kinds of cafés. First you’ll see the 'traditional' coffee shops, dating back from the second half of the twentieth century. These cafés usually have small chairs lined up indoors or out on the sidewalk; the atmosphere is casual and down to earth. The menu typically consists of four basic items: den nong ('black' or unsweetened coffee), den da (unsweetened iced coffee), nau nong ('brown' or sweetened coffee) and nau da (sweetened iced coffee). Servers use condensed milk as the sweetener, as usual in Vietnam, giving the coffee a strong taste and aroma. The most famous is Café Giang (39 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem), where egg coffee was born. When you taste egg coffee you’ll see it’s more like dessert than a drink; it’s a delicacy unique to the capital city, and a must-try when you visit Hanoi. The city’s younger population, along with expats and tourists, have also been exploring the modern, boutique coffee shops, which offer intriguing architecture, Italian espresso and a food or dessert menu. Finding your own favourite is always a worthwhile adventure. Chain coffee stores, on the other hand, do not call for exploration – they simply stand out at convenient and prominent locations in the city. If you’re in need of a break, try the coconut coffee at Cong Ca Phe (27 Nha Tho / 46 Trang Tien / 54 Ma May, Hoan Kiem), a local chain that brings back the atmosphere of 1980s Hanoi.

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Block House Café - Café

things to DRINK where SEE

Where to Get Your Coffee Fix $-$$

Wartime air raid shelter, great light refreshments with West Lake views. Unique! 35/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho D.

cafes

Café Pho Co - Café $ Sip local coffee blends on the balcony with views over Hoan Kiem Lake (p 16). It’s a tough life! 11 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem D.

Càfê RuNam - Café

$-$$

Coffee and great food in luxurious surroundings. Plush lounge or airy terrace – go treat yourself! 13 Nha Tho / 6B Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem D.

Joma Bakery Cafe - Café

$-$$

North American coffee culture in Hanoi. Joma donates some profits to the local community. 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem / 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho / 38 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh D.

L'étage Café - Café

$-$$

Small establishment in a terrace above shops. Get a balcony seat and look down the length of Hoan Kiem Lake. 9A Hang Khay, Hoan Kiem D.

Manzi - Art & Café $-$$ In a charming old French mansion. Have your coffee amid the collections of local paintings, photos and sculptures. 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh D.

Vpresso - Café $-$$ Vpresso isn’t just a coffee and tea shop, they have a great selection of beans and good food. Prices aren’t cheap, but the taste makes it worthwhile! 45 Ly Quoc Su/ 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem D. hanoi

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An Emerging Craft Beer Scene Most visitors hear about Bia Hoi. Meaning literally ‘fresh beer’, this cold, weak and refreshing draught brew is served in many places around Ta Hien Street in the Old Quarter (p. 17). You can also find it in bars around the Duong Thanh and Bat Dan junction, at only VND10,000 a glass!

craft beer

A number of microbreweries in Hanoi produce a range of craft beers, though these are a bit harder to find. Look out for Goldmalt (416 Xa Dan, Dong Da) – each brews its own taste of malty beer. The Standing Bar (170 Toan Vu, Ba Dinh) has 20 different local beers, on tap, whilst Furbrew (8 Ta Ngoc Van, Tay Ho) serves a range of 10 Czechstyle beers. Still thirsty? The Peachy Craft Beer Pub (87 Hang Dao, Hoan Kiem), has been gaining followers thanks to its refined-yet-folksy Vietnamese atmosphere. Have a cool ale in the centre of the Old Quarter at night at Rockstore (61 Ma May, Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem). C-Craft Corner is a new addition to the craft beer scene. The atmosphere is complete with moody dark wood interiors and knowledgeable staff (45A Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem). Pasteur Street Brewing - Beer

$$-$$$

Pasteur Street Brewing Company’s first taproom in Hanoi. A perfect location in the heart of Hanoi, in a quiet street behind the famous St. Joseph’s Cathedral. On the second floor of the taproom there's a beautiful terrace where you can relax and enjoy some amazing Vietnamese-brewed craft beer. 1 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem D. 024 6294 9462 cheers@pasteurstreet.com pasteurstreet.com

Local insight: Look for the taproom’s monthly live music events. During the afternoon, the taproom serves free snacks with the beer. 48

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things to DRINK where SEE tea

Local Life: Iced Lime Tea

$

If you have a night to spare and want to catch up with friends, spend a night drinking iced lime tea on the streets surrounding St. Joseph’s Cathedral (p.18) for a uniquely Hanoian experience. A small shop on Dao Duy Tu Street first popularised the simple sweetand-sour drink. Shops around the Cathedral followed suit, the best one at 26 Nha Tho, in front of the

church. With a great street view and atmosphere, it soon became the most popular spot for young locals to sit and chat for hours, at the price of less than a dollar a drink. Since backpackers’ hostels now flood the area, the young crowd has changed too. There’s just something irresistible about relaxing on a plastic stool, right next to the old church bathed in orange street lights, and taking in the capital city. hanoi

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where E E StooDRINK t s g n i ht bars/lounges

Press Club–La Plume Bar & Lounge

$$-$$$

Located in the historic part of Hanoi, La Plume tells you beautiful stories about Vietnamese culture. The stunning decor is inspired by the design of the legendary Long Bien bridge. La Plume is a hotspot for all day snacks and evening drinks. Awesome cocktails are mixed by Vietnam’s champion Pham Tien Tiep, whilst the wine list is comprised of an impressive 450 labels. Executive Chef Dao Van Son who has worked with many Michelin starred chefs, prepares authentic snacks using local organic and imported products. Items on the menu range from European to truly Vietnamese specialties. 3rd Floor, Press Club Building 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem D. info@hanoi-pressclub.com 8:00am to midnight laplume.com.vn 024 3934 0888 / 09 0406 7686

Local insight: Try the signature Pho or Full Moon cocktails – these are real winners. 50

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things to DRINK where SEE

Mad Botanist - Bar

$$-$$$

This gin bar is tucked away at the third and fourth floors of 45 Ly Quoc Su, one of the busiest streets in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. Go to the back of V-Presso coffee (P. 47) and ascend rear stairs to find this speakeasy gin bar seemingly frozen in the ‘20s.

bars/lounges

45 Ly Quoc Su, Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem D. 024 2246 4123 madbotanist.thegin@gmail.com 5:00pm - late facebook.com/TheMadBotanist/

Local insight: The Mad Botanist’s take on the bar standard gin and tonic features Tanqueray No. Ten and house-made tonic. The Rooftop - Rooftop Bar

$$$

This elegantly retro-styled bar, lounge and restaurant was established in 2010 and offers superb views across the Hanoi skyline. It caters to local business people, expats and tourists who come to enjoy lunch, dinner, soft drinks or great cocktails whilst listening to deep house music and watching the city. 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem D. 09 1370 6966 / 09 0222 0700 10:00am-12:00am TheRooftopHanoi

Local insight: Try the Tiamo cocktail, which is their top seller. Date Night Spots The keywords to finding a good spot for your first date in Hanoi are 'lake' and 'rooftop' or, even better, both. On Hoan Kiem Lake (p.16), Avalon Cafe Lounge (73 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem) provides great views and service, and on the quirky side is The Balcony Bar & Cafe (4 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem). A little walk over to the hidden Hanoi House (Level 2, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem). For romantic celebrations that call for city-wide vistas, only a venue in the clouds will do. Try The Rooftop (p.51) for the best views to 'wow' your date. hanoi

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Live Music Spots

live music

The best way to find music is to follow your ears! You’ll find a number of places clustered in the classy residential area of Tay Ho (p. 25) or along the streets in the more tourist-oriented Old Quarter (p. 17). Plus, take a walk around Hoan Kiem Lake (p. 16) on weekend nights to enjoy a variety of traditional, modern and classical music acts. You can see local artists perform traditional ballads on weekends at the junction of Ma May and Luong Ngoc Quyen streets. For guaranteed good music, visit Swing (21 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem). Have a coffee on the second floor and then head up one more storey, where a different band plays every night from 9pm to 11pm. Jazz fans should also check out the nearby Binh Minh Jazz Club (1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem) for their nightly music fix. Check out one of the Cong Ca Phe (p. 46) establishments around the city. A resident live band often plays whilst you sip a beverage amid decorative communist memorabilia. Other venues with live artists include, Nhac Café (7 Hang Thung, Hoan Kiem), Ay Lounge (65 Hang Bun, Ba Dinh) and the narrow and cosy Solist Bar (65 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem). Want a touch of up-market style? Head to Le Club, part of the flashy Sofitel Metropole Hotel (p. 88), where you can listen to jazz in positively colonial surroundings. For a more casual, rasta-inspired spot, head to Sidewalk (231 Au Co, Quang An). An active and eclectic nightly schedule features everything from hip hop sets to acoustic nights and international DJs. While you watch, take advantage of nightly food and drink deals. A go-to hangout for Hanoi’s artistic-minded!

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things to DRINK where SEE live music

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where E E StooDRINK t s g n i ht further suggestion

Bars and Lounges 88 Lounge - Wine Lounge

Chez Xuan Garden - Bar $$-$$$

Vibrant lakeside vinos. Come here for the atmosphere and the expertly curated wine list. Maybe not the best for food. 88 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho D.

Bamboo Bar at Sofitel Legend Metropole - Bar $$-$$$ Go here for French-style up-market drinks. 15 Pho Ngo Quyen, Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem D.

BirdCage - Bar & Nightclub

$

Catch underground music at this eclectic spot most nights of the week. Stunning collaborations with local artists! Ngo 264 Au Co, Quang An, Tay Ho D.

Camelia Lounge - Lounge

$$

Maxed-out luxury with more than a touch of glamour in Hoan Kiem District. Ladies’ night on Wednesdays! 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem D. 54

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$-$$

Up an alley in Tay Ho District, enjoy good beer in a garden setting. 41/76 An Duong, Tay Ho D.

Hanoi Night Club - Music Bar

$-$$

Something for everyone – live bands, dance shows and karaoke rooms if you really want to make a night of it. D8 Giang Vo, Ba Dinh D.

Summit Lounge - Rooftop Bar

$$-$$$

Have great cocktails on the 20th floor of the Pan Pacific Hotel. Spectacular views of West Lake. 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho D. Sunset Bar - Rooftop Bar

$$-$$$

Cross the bridge for lakeside drinks at the InterContinental (p. 87) West Lake. Sunsets at water level. 5 Tu Hoa Cong Chua, Tay Ho D.

Top of Hanoi - Rooftop Bar

$-$$

The rooftop crowning the Lotte Center (p. 71). Get a 360-degree view over a glittering night-time city . 54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh D.

SHOP

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things to SHOP SEE things to where SEE

where to

where E E Sto otSHOP s g n i ht

Shopping Price Guide (per main item) $ - up to VND299,000

$$ - VND300,000-499,000

$$$ - VND500,000 & above

introduction/souvenirs

Hanoi is certainly the place for a bit of retail therapy – there’s a huge range of goods and prices, and many items are cheap compared to other countries. Malls sell designer brands and imported products, but you’ll have to get out of the backstreet shops to buy something different and unique to Vietnam. Porcelain The Chinese perfected the manufacturing of porcelain in the 10th century and artisans in Vietnam soon followed. Using local deposits of kaolin, a particularly pure white clay, fired at high temperatures, they produced marvellous dishes and art objects. Decoration often includes a distinctive blue cobalt glaze. Today, traditional styles are married to modern designs to produce fantastic tableware and decorations. Local insight: The finest quality pieces can be found at Minh Long’s outlets (p.57) or Gia Thinh (106 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh). Ceramics While not famous for high-quality ceramics, Vietnam is an excellent place to stock up on household items, sold at reasonable prices. Many products are painted in the traditional white-andblue patterns; look a bit harder, however, and you’ll find items in a variety of colours. Bring home small knick-knacks, matched sets, decorative tiles and vases. Shoppers can pick up a full tea set for as little as VND100,000. Local insight: Head out to Bat Trang Ceramics Village (p. 27) for a mind-blowing selection of items.

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things to SHOP where SEE souvenirs

Minh Long

$$-$$$

With a total area of 4,500m2, Minh Long is the biggest porcelain showroom in Vietnam. More than 1,000 products are displayed in their modern, luxuriously furnished space, like tableware, sculptures, figurines and other delightful souvenirs. Asian and European-style products are arranged in separate areas. Visitors will enjoy the handcrafted products, such as their hand-painted vases and porcelain jewellery. 3-5 Nguyen Van Linh, Gia Thuy, Long Bien D. 8:00am-9:00pm 09 4138 5445 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh D. 8:30am-7:00pm 024 2210 8868 Minh Long also has multiple locations in Saigon minhlong.com sales@minhlong.com

Local insight: Many of the pieces draw inspiration from Vietnamese culture and traditions. hanoi

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Masks

souvenirs

The practice of gaily painted papier-mache masks originated in Hanoi – children usually wear them during the Mid-Autumn Festival (September–October). The ones you’ll mostly see on sale, however, are wooden masks. The best are lacquered, round, woven bamboo trays, used in traditional theatre, cheo (p. 80), painted with different styles and emotions depending on each character’s traits. You’ll see bamboo masks hanging in shops along the narrow lanes of the Old Quarter. Embrace your inner drama queen – buy one to show your real personality. Local insight: White is used for female characters and red for important regal or military men. Water Puppets

Whilst the ones you see in souvenir shops may not date back to the 11th century, the art form certainly does. The puppets are used to relate classic Vietnamese folk tales and stories, the performances are accompanied by traditional music. After watching these wooden marionettes glide effortlessly across the water, we can guarantee you’ll want a set for your own bathtub. They can be found in various sizes in stores throughout the Old Quarter (p. 17). Local insight: See puppets in action at the Water Puppet Theatre near Hoan Kiem Lake (p. 16 Wood Carving A traditional craft passed down the generations. Buddha sculptures are usually intended for temples and domestic altars, but small, ornate carvings make great gifts. Household décor stores usually carry contemporary styles. Go to outlets selling ethnic handicrafts for more traditional options. Local insight: Ironwood is the most expensive hardwood – it’ll last for centuries! 58

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things to SHOP where SEE

Buffalo Horn

Craftspeople make hair ornaments, cutlery and jewellery from buffalo horn, all of which can be found in souvenir and homeware shops around the city. Colours range from brilliant white to jet black; note that it must be hand-washed. No buffalos are specifically killed to collect horns.

souvenirs

Local insight: The lighter the colour, the more valuable the item. Jewellery

Many glittering gold and silver jewellers crowd along Hang Bac, open at all hours. For something more unusual, try Three Trees at 15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Gaze at the beautiful, unusual creations located just yards away from St. Joseph’s Cathedral (p. 18). Local insight: Beautiful, world-class jewellery can be found at Hanoia (p. 68). Minority Handicraft

Made by Vietnam’s 54 ethnic minorities, many travellers love these items. You can find a wide variety in the city – look for the smaller, cluttered outlets for traditional quilts, hats, clothing, decorations, gongs, belts, carvings, jewellery and much more. Get an introduction at 54 Traditions (p. 68)! To ensure that the artisans earn a living wage for their products, buy from one of the fair trade stores. Local insight: Go to the shop right above Mr Linh’s Travel Company (p. 75) on Ma May Street for an impressive selection of traditional ethnic crafts. Zippos

You are guaranteed to be approached by a street vendor to buy one of these! Most are modernday copies of this once-essential companion of US soldiers. Genuine ones are unique collector’s items, but even copies make interesting kitsch gifts. Local insight: Expect to pay about VND200,000 ($10) for a good-looking one. hanoi

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CRAFT LINK

$$

souvenirs

A Vietnam trip isn’t complete without a souvenir to bring home. Why not give back to the artisans who make the products rather than buying something mass produced? CRAFT LINK is a fair trade organisation that uses profit from the sale of the products to fund development projects supporting ethnic minorities and disadvantaged people in Vietnam. 51 Van Mieu, Hanoi 024 3733 6101 craftlink@fpt.vn craftlink.com.vn

Local insight: All products are original and handmade by local artisans in Vietnam. Home Décor

Hanoi has many shops that stock items for the home. It’s enough to inspire anyone’s interior design imagination. Wooden furniture is particularly cheap compared to elsewhere, made in a multitude of styles and colours to match your layout at home. Buy from the shop floor or ask for a custom order made to your specifications; most shopkeepers will help you arrange the shipments back home. Local insight: In the Old Quarter (p. 17) there are clusters of shops selling similar items, whether it’s lanterns or bed linen. Embroidery

Famous for handmade quilts and embroidered tablecloths, Hanoi is an excellent place to stock up on gifts and housewares. Even more impressive are the hand-embroidered scenes of local animals and village life. See the wonderful pieces at Quoc Su (21B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem & 107B Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh) or XQ Embroidery (138 Po Hue, Hai Ba Trung). Small pieces are a few tens of dollars whilst the huge creations can cost thousands. Local insight: Hillary Clinton bought a tablecloth at Tan My Embroidery (P. 62), Hanoi’s oldest continually running embroidery shop. 60

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things to SHOP where SEE souvenirs

Mekong Quilts

$$

Mekong Quilts was founded in 2001, employing only 35 women. The organisation specialises in handcrafted quilts and accessories using sustainable raw materials. Working with disadvantaged women from rural Vietnam and Cambodia, Mekong Quilts has engaged over 200 of them in full-time employment and has contributed to development initiatives within their communities. The quilters receive training, a fair wage and other benefits. All profits from products sold are returned to the quilters’ villages. 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem D. 024 3926 4831 mekongquilts.com

Local insight: Looking for something different? Mekong Quilts also accepts custom orders, ensuring unique products to outfit any home. hanoi

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Tan My Design

$$-$$$

This design house has quietly become the destination of choice for Vietnamese fashion, art, jewellery and household products. Located right in the heart of the famous Old Quarter on Hang Gai, the store is unlike anything else. The space combines old and contemporary designs covering three floors across three connected terraced houses, bridging classical Hanoi architecture with international design. Dating back to 1969, Tan My Design offers three generations of the finest quality and one-of-a-kind products that cannot be found at the smaller silk and craft shops in the Old Quarter. 61-63 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem D. 024 3938 1154 8:00am-8:00pm tanmydesign.com

Local insight: The cafĂŠ has one of the best espressos in the city along with a delicious range of Asian and Western meals to choose from and various artworks for sale. 62

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Local insight: The ao dai makes a great gift, but only if they’re formfitting. Buy a few sizes too big, so the recipient can have it tailored to his or her frame when you get back. Fashion

Shopping for Western sizes can be an exercise in futility in this smallboned country. However, a lot of international brands manufacture products in Vietnam. Go past the main street T-shirt vendors and find the large number of boutiques catering to tourists of more ample proportions. Local insight: When looking for clothes that fit, try the shops around St. Joseph’s Cathedral (p. 18). Discover a Hidden Boutique

Boutique shops abound in Hanoi. You can see ao dai at Xeo Xo (10 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem), a lovely local store hidden in an alley down Hang Bong. Floral patterns are the theme at Flora (62 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem). Some internationally celebrated fashion houses like Chula (18 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem) and Kilomet 109 (7/83 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho) were

also born in Hanoi. These social businesses work with Northern communities, employing their fabric-making techniques. Tailors

Some travellers might head elsewhere for a new wardrobe, but Hanoi is home to many excellent tailors, and you’ll find that prices are very competitive. Bring your favourite suit to be copied or a picture of the dress you’ve always wanted and get it custom-made. A pair of really good-quality linen trousers, for example, could cost up to $50, a shirt $20 and a suit a few hundred dollars – exactly tailored to your dimensions! Check Cho Hom fabric market (p. 66) for material.

fashion

One of the most recognisable symbols of the country, this traditional clothing is one of the best ways to take a little piece of Vietnam home. The standard look features a scooped neck just below the collarbone and hip-length slits over silk trousers.

things to SHOP where SEE

Ao Dai

Local insight: Turn clothes inside out to check the quality of work along the seams – good looks can be deceiving. Silk

The art of silk-making is credited to the Chinese. Once the secret techniques escaped, one of the first silk centres in Vietnam was Van Phuc Village (p. 27). Renowned for over a thousand years, silk weaving is still the main occupation of village residents. Visit the Ha Dong Silk shop, one of the largest silk sellers, located on silk street: 102 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Local insight: Check out the exclusive silk clothing upstairs at Hanoia (p. 68). hanoi

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Cooking Up a Delicious Gift Many shops around the Old Quarter (p. 17), such as Oriberry (36 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem), sell coffee beans and grinders, along with the unique metal coffee filter (phin). Green tea shipped directly from Thai Nguyen is another popular gift choice.

food/malls

If you have a sweet tooth, the fruit candy (o mai) sold at Hong Lam (11 Hang Duong, Hoan Kiem) is an addictive specialty. Also check out green tea cubes, which can be found at Nguyen Huong (42 Hang Bong) and Rong Vang Minh Ngoc (27 Hang Giay, Hoan Kiem). For a stronger sip, check out the Northernproduced rice wines. Lang Van wine was served in Vietnamese royal courts, and can now be found at Old Hanoi Restaurant (p. 42). Son Tinh, a brand created by Markus Madeja, is available at Highway4 (25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem). Malls

As a city of more than seven million (officially), Hanoi has more than a few malls for shoppers to choose from. The nearest to the Old Quarter is the Trang Tien Plaza (24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem). A bit further out you’ll find Vincom Mega Mall Royal City (72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan), the centre of a huge urban redevelopment. Most unmissable, and the tallest at 65 stories is Lotte Centre (54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh). Across the Red River is the huge Aeon Mall (27 Co Linh, Long Bien), with endless stores and a large kids play area. The whole top floor is a world of eateries! North Face, Nike and other international brands are manufactured in Vietnam, so you’ll find these, either copies or seconds, at ‘Made in Vietnam’ stores sprinkled throughout town. Check Navy Shop at 11 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem. 64

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things to SHOP where SEE food

Maison Marou Hanoi $-$$ After its raving success in Saigon, Maison Marou has now opened its doors in Hanoi. Just 500m from Hoan Kiem Lake, the ‘Cacao Embassy’ brings together a café, a pastry shop and a chocolate factory under the same roof to put on a real show. Relax over a steaming cup of heavenly hot chocolate and some of the city’s best French pastries while watching how locally sourced cacao is turned into world-class chocolate bars and bonbons in the show kitchen. Warm up here during Hanoi’s dark and damp winter months, and be sure to bring some of the goodness home. 91A Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem D. 024 3717 3969 Maisonmarou.com Sun-Thurs: 9:00am-10:00pm Fri-Sat: 9:00am-11:00pm

Local insight: Their award-winning Single Origin chocolate bars are sourced from different Vietnamese provinces, from the Highlands around Dalat all the way down to the Mekong Delta. hanoi

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where E E Sto otSHOP s g n i ht markets

Hanoi’s Many Markets Just as a market in Saigon is called Cho Lon, Hanoi’s major market also has an unofficial name: Ke Cho (cho means market here). Even with supermarkets and convenience stores growing in the city, traditional markets are still indispensable in the daily life of Northern Vietnamese. They are not just places to shop, but also places to observe and become part of the community. The iconic Cho Dong Xuan (Dong Xuan, Hoan Kiem), built in 1890, is the largest covered market in Hanoi, mostly selling clothes and souvenirs. Right next door is a busy street food market, open until midnight. Cho Hom (79 Hue, Hai Ba Trung) is a fabric heaven and 66

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a bargaining hell. The second floor is filled with textiles. Try to avoid shopping in the morning, as sellers believe early customers determine their luck for the whole day. If you want to immerse yourself in the activities of a traditional wet market, Cho Chau Long (Chau Long, Ba Dinh) is the place to go. Here you can find cheap dried ingredients and spices, probably one reason why it’s a popular venue for street food tours. Hanoi’s flower market, Cho Hoa Quang An (236 Au Co, Tay Ho), is open at night from 11:30pm to 5:30am. Flowers from the outskirts of Hanoi are gathered here at much better prices than in the city.

PRODUCT

STREET

PRODUCT

Hang Hanh

Onions

Bat Dan

Wooden Bowls

Hang Hom

Cases

Bat Su

China Bowls

Hang Huong

Incense

Cha Ca

Roasted Fish

Hang Khay

Trays

Cho Gao

String Instruments

Sweet Potatoes

Gia Ngu

Rice

Combs

Hai Tuong

Fish

Hang Bac

Sandals

Hang Be

Rafts

Hang Bo

Baskets

Hang Bong

Cotton

Hang Buom

Sails

Hang But

Brushes

Hang Ca

Fish

Hang Can

Scales

Hang Chai

Bottles

Hang Chi

Threads

Hang Chieu

Mats

Hang Chinh

Jars

Hang Cot

Bamboo Lattices

Hang Khoai Hang Luoc Hang Ma

Votive Papers

Hang Mam

Pickled Fish

Hang Manh

Bamboo Screens

Hang Muoi

Salt

Hang Ngang

Night Market

Hang Non

Hats

Hang Phen

Aluminium

Hang Quat

Fans

Hang Ruoi

Clam Worms

Hang Than

Charcoal

Hang Thiec

Tin

Hang Thung

Barrels

Hang Tre

Bamboo

Hang Da

Leather

Hang Trong

Drums

Hang Dao

Silk Dyes

Hang Vai

Cloth

Hang Dau

Beans / Oils

Lo Ren

Blacksmiths

Hang Dieu

Pipes

Lo Su

Coffins

Hang Dong

Copper

Ma May

Rattan

Hang Duong

Sugar

Ngo Gach

Bricks

Hang Ga

Chicken

Thuoc Bac

Herbal Medicine

Hang Giay

Paper / Shoes hanoi

shopping streets

STREET

things to SHOP where SEE

The Old Quarter is often referred to as the '36 Streets'; in reality there are more than 50. The street names refer to the original trades that were represented there.

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where E E Sto otSHOP s g n i ht

Fashion Ha Dong Silk: This shop is one of the most renowned silk sellers in Hanoi, located on silk street, Hang Gai. 102 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem D.

further suggestions

XQ Embroidery: Hand embroidery combining snapshots of traditional Vietnamese colours with intricate craftsmanship. 13 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem D.

Galleries 54 Traditions: Antiques and classic textiles from Vietnam’s 54 ethnic minority groups. 30 Hang Bun, Ba Dinh D.

Apricot: The self-proclaimed home of Vietnam’s leading artists showcasing their traditional works. 40B Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem D.

Manzi Art Space: An independent art space, café and bar situated in a 20th-century French villa. 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh D.

Souvenirs Hanoia is the leading haute-lacquer house in Vietnam. Hanoia has developed its own collections of home décor, jewellery and lacquer silk. 38 Hang Dao, Hoan Kiem D.

Three Trees: Stocks beautiful, unusual jewellery, and is located just yards away from the cathedral. 15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem D.

Bookstores Bookworm: Excellent selection of new and used books in English and French. 44 Chau Long, Hoan Kiem D.

Fahasa Bookstore: If you're looking for great read, this is the place to go. Expect the selection to be very mainstream, in both Vietnamese and English. 9 Kim Lien Moi, Dong Da D. 68

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things to SEE

things to

DO

Ethings E S ot to sgn DO i ht

Activities Price Guide (per visit) $ - up to VND299,000

Nguyen Tri Phuong) before turning left onto Phan Ding Phung, the prettiest tree-lined street in the city. Total distance: 5km Walk along the wide footpaths. Be Duration: 2-2.5 hours (without stops) sure to take in the park just opposite, Starting point: Temple of Literature with its array of massive statues. Ending point: The Hanoi Opera House When you reach the distinctive Start at the Temple of Literature Hang Dau Water Tower, turn right (p.24), site of the country’s first on Phung Hung and trek parallel to university. From here, walk along the railway line – lots of restaurants Van Mieu and onto Nguyen Thai renowned for their hotpots, called Hoc for a quick visit at the Fine lau are here. About half-way down, turn left at Hang Vai or Hang Phen, Arts Museum (p. 23). and you’ll find yourself in the mass Then take a left onto Hoang Dieu of small streets that make up the and a stroll past the once-grand Old Quarter (p. 17). colonial mansions on your way to Reach Luong Van Can, turn right and Lenin Memorial and Park. Across keep going till you see Hoan Kiem the street you’ll see the Cot Co Lake (p. 16). Stroll around the lake, Tower (p. 24). perhaps stopping for another coffee Cross Dien Bien Phu and head up at Helio Café (57 Dinh Tien Hoang). Now it’s time for a photo opportunity Nguyen Tri Phuong. The buildings at the Ngoc Son Temple gate before on both sides belong to the Defence continuing on. Ministry. Check out the tanks and warplanes of the Military Museum When you see the Trang Tien Plaza as you walk past, then visit the on Hang Tien, hang a left. It’s now a reconstructed ancient Hanoi straight walk to the distinctive Hanoi Citadel (p. 21). Opera House (p. 18), a perfect end to this tour, knowing you’ve walked At the junction you can stop for from an ancient marvel to one of the a drink at the Open Space Café modern architectural masterpieces beneath the Army Hotel (1A of Hanoi!

tours

Walking Tour (see map on pages 75-76)

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$$ - VND300,000-499,000

$$$ - VND500,000 & above

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things to DO SEE tours

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Ethings E S ot to sgn DO i ht

Tours

tours

Best on the Road

Hanoi embraces tours – in the Old Quarter (p. 17) every third shop seems to be a tour agency! This means you’ll have lots of chances to compare prices, so shop around. Your choices of transport are virtually endless. Be active on a bicycle or lean back on a bus? It’s your choice!

Hit the streets with a retro machine from Vespa Adventures (vespaadventures.com/hanoi-tours). Culture in the morning or afternoon, food and bars in the evening. Feeling energetic? Book a bicycle tour at The Hanoi Bicycle Collective (thbc.vn). Make sure to cross the Red River. Be a real tourist and hire a cyclo. Pick one at a street corner or book via Hanoi Cyclo Tours (hanoicyclotours.com). Prices should be about VND150,000 per hour. Best Water Tours See the city and its suburbs from water level on a Red River tour. Find the best tours at Mr. Linh’s Adventures (p.75). The karst limestone outcrops here are on most people’s bucket list, so get out on Halong Bay by boat. There are many operators; look into halong-bay-tours.com. Budget about $50 a day minimum. Best Cultural Tours Tickle your taste buds on a street food tour – most take two to three hours and cost $20-30 per person. Try Hanoi Street Tours (hanoistreetfoodtour.com). Want to learn about Vietnamese art? Sophie’s Art Tour (sophiesarttour.com) will make the introduction. Local Insight: A group of language students have set up a free guide service so their members can practice English whilst assisting tourists (hanoikids.org/hanoikids-book-tour).

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things to DO SEE

HA Travel

$$$

Created in 2006 by Hung Vu (Bill), a man of passion with 20 years of experience in hospitality, HA Travel offers innovative packaged tours throughout Vietnam as well as multi-country tours in Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia and Myanmar. Leisure and business travellers will find all their needs satisfied with HA Travel’s professional and culturally adaptive services.

tours

sales@hatravel.com.vn hatravel.com.vn

09 8626 9111

Local insight: If you have any special request, write to Bill and he'll incorporate it into the tour. Mr Linh's Adventures

$$$

What started as a homestay in 2008 has become one of Vietnam's best tour providers. Their love of Vietnam and extensive research really set them apart. The tours never fail to provide a unique experience, be it exploring the sublime national parks of Cat Ba and Ba Be or trekking in the northern highlands. 83 Ma May, Hoan Kiem 024 3642 5420 mrlinhadventure.com 8:00am-5:00pm info@mrlinhadventure.com

Local insight: There’s no better provider to take in the amazing landscapes close to the Chinese border. Cyclo Tours

$$$

A carryover from the colonial era, these bicycle taxis carry anything and everything from passengers to broken-down motorbikes. These days, they mostly ferry tourists around the Old Quarter. The going may be slower than the motorbikes that buzz about you, but it gives you plenty of time to take in all of your surroundings, and it is a leisurely way to spend an afternoon. Local insight: Tour costs can range from VND100,000-600,000 depending on how long and how far you choose to ride. hanoi

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Ethings E S ot to sgn DO i ht

Day Trips Tired of walking the capital city’s streets? Visit the nearby country areas!

tours

Good marketing has led Halong Bay to be on most people’s northern “to do” list. Best done leisurely over two or three days on vessels with varying degrees of luxury, it’s also possible to experience the magnificence of this natural wonder on a day trip. It’ll be a full day – and a long drive to the coast and a late evening return. Float on the waters of the majestic bay or explore further in kayaks. Not a water person? Try a trip to the countryside of Tam Coc, 100km southeast of the city, where one can row on the local Ngo Dong river, cycle the roads and visit limestone grottoes or Hoa Lu Temple. If temples are more your thing, visit beautiful scenery in the Trang An Area near Ninh Binh, home to the Bai Dinh pagoda complex, so big you’ll need to use their electric cars to see it all. You can row around the local river yourself or be a passenger. For more religious monuments, check out the famed Perfume Pagoda (p. 27) at the centre of a complex of Buddhist pagodas and shrines built into the Huong Tich mountains, 60km southwest of Hanoi; this is a nice day out that includes lunch, a boat trip and a scenic cable car ride. For those who want a taste of rural lifestyles, travel to Mai Chau village, a three-hours drive northwest of the city, where you can cycle around the rice fields and witness Tai dances and silk weaving. All of these day trips are easily found, advertised by the many travel agents that dot the streets of the Old Quarter – particularly Ma May Street, where one also finds Mr Linh’s Adventures (p. 75).

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things to DO SEE

For Kids Kids, as we all know, need to be constantly stimulated. Hanoi doesn’t have a lot of green, open spaces but the city boasts lots of water: one massive river and plenty of lakes. But there is more. Rest assured that the city has a diverse range of activities to keep your rug rats occupied!

for kids

Shows & Activities Water Puppet Theatre (p. 81) is a must-see that involves puppets, music and a lot of action. The Lang Toi – My Village show (p. 81) at the Hanoi Opera House (p. 18) – what can’t you do with bamboo? At night-time, you can’t beat viewing or participating in the sidewalk attractions around Hoan Kiem Lake (p. 16). See how balanced your children are: try Ice Skating (p. 83) at Royal Vincom Megamall, a great choice if it’s raining. In Nature Try a pedal-powered swan-shaped boat in Truc Bach Water Park (p. 84). Slightly old school, but still family fun! Take a day trip and see nature’s wonders in Halong Bay (p. 76). An awe-struck child is a calm child. Go to the Top of Hanoi (p. 54) at Lotte Hotel at sunset… everyone likes a view! Kids driving you up the wall? Send them up one at Vietclimb (p.83)! A large indoor bouldering gym with a padded floor. Eateries There’s a huge range of sweet treats at Joma Bakery (p. 47). Go local at a Quan An Ngon restaurant (p. 33). It’s never too early to get to know Vietnamese cuisine. hanoi

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Ethings E S ot to sgn DO i ht spas/beauty

Hair Salons

$-$$$

Nails $-$$$

Pamper yourself at one of Hanoi’s numerous hair salons. VND100,000 will get you a hair wash and a head massage. For a little more, Hanoi’s luxury salons offer experienced hair professionals at prices that will truly amaze. Always ask and confirm prices before the scissors start clicking. For the price conscious, check out the mobile streetside entrepreneurs who, armed with just a chair, mirror and battery-powered clipper, can do quick cuts for no more than VND50,000.

Many Vietnamese women like to primp and preen themselves, and having great-looking nails is an essential part of the desired image. There are numerous nail artists who create exquisite designs. Depending on the complexity of the design, colours, extensions or other materials incorporated, the cost can run anywhere from VND100,000 to 1,000,000, although basic, single colours could be less.

Try EM Hair Salon 1 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh

Local insight: Be careful answering questions – you may end up paying for additional services. 78

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Try Tiny & Nail Spa 38 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem

Local insight: There are many good nail salons around Hoan Kiem Lake (p. 16). As you move away from the Old Quarter, prices will correspondingly drop.

$-$$$

things to DO SEE

Massage & Spas

Massage therapy is important in Vietnamese culture, so you’ll find plenty of options. In the past, the words “massage parlour” were code for shady sex shop but now the majority of businesses are legitimate and there are proper salons on almost every street corner.

spas/beauty

Prices can range from as little as a VND150,000 to VND1,000,000+. Choose from Vietnamese, Thai, deep tissue, hot stone, four-hands massages or any number of possibilities. Release your holiday stress at long-established Anam QT Spa (42 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem). Smooth out your smile lines with the facial shiatsu treatment at Amadora Spa (250 Ba Trieu; 50 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho). Do something good for the community while taking care of your body: The Midori Spa in the Old Quarter (28 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem) and Omamori Spa (52A Hang Bun, Ba Dinh) are massage parlours that aim to provide job opportunities for blind Vietnamese people. Local insight: It’s customary to tip your masseuse after your session; we recommend 10% of the total bill. Donna Spa

$-$$$

Located conveniently at the heart of the city in Hoan Kiem district, Donna spa offers an escape for exhausted travellers. All services are provided by expert therapists in a clean and tranquil environment. 59 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem; 27 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem 024.3555 1875 - 097 99 66 155 donnaspahanoi@gmail.com donna-spa-nails-27-tong-duy-tan-st.business.site

Local insight:Want a full day of pampering? Try Donna spa’s complete package, which includes a facial, body scrub and a full-body massage. hanoi

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Best Cultural Shows

entertainment

Be amazed by the acrobatics at Ionah Show (p.80) at the Star Galaxy Theatre. Yes, it’s Hanoi spelt backwards! See a fusion of bamboo and dance at Lang Toi - My Village (p. 81). Traditional storytelling in classic surroundings. After you’ve checked out the ethnic costumes at the Ethnology Museum (p. 26), visit one of their four daily Water Puppet Shows. Ca Tru

$

Almost dying out in the mid-20th century, this genre of chamber music is now recognised by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage. Originating in North Vietnam, it often involves three musicians, including a female vocalist and lute player. 87 Ma May, Hoan Kiem

012 2326 6897

Local insight: Traditionally played in inns and private homes, ca tru is today synthesised into pop and other modern musical styles. Cheo

$

Cheo is a form of satirical musical theatre centred around dance. You can see modern cheo at the Cheo Theatre (71 Kim Ma) on the weekends. Catch a traditional performance at the Hanoi Cheo Theatre (15 Nguyen Dinh Chieu). Local insight: Cheo has origins in ancient village festivals, and used minimal scenery or props Ionah Show at Star Galaxy Theater

$$$

After two years of further refining Hanoi’s perfomance art to international quality, Ionah Show continues to deliver a spectacular combination of circus, dance, music and leading theatrical technology in a surreal setting. With its excellent artistry, Ionah Show is a must-see in Hanoi. Star Galaxy Theater, 87 Lang Ha, Ba Dinh 024 36646969 ionah.vn Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday 7:45pm 80

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things to DO SEE entertainment

Lang Toi – My Village

$$$

This contemporary production makes use of bamboo in many forms, incorporating acrobatic acts, visual art, dance and storytelling about Vietnamese village life. An amazing concoction of bamboo, cirque and exotic live music. Hanoi Opera House 01 Trang Tien St., Hoan Kiem VND630,000 - VND2,000,000 Hanoi Vietnam Tuong Theater 51A Duong Thanh St., Hoan Kiem VND630,000 - VND1,050,000

Local insight: Enjoy this performance in the historic Hanoi Opera House (p. 18), where you can also get tickets.

Water Puppets

$

A unique Vietnamese variation of the ancient Asian puppetry tradition, the technique dates back to 11thcentury villages in the Red River Delta. Traditional folklore stories are told using handmade, lacquered wooden puppets, which are controlled by hidden puppeteers. Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre 57B Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Mon-Sat 1:45pm, 3:00pm, 4:10pm, 5:20pm, 6:30pm, 8:00pm, 9:15pm / Sun 9:30am

Local insight: Water puppet figurines are commonly available in the Old Quarter (p. 17) as souvenirs. hanoi

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Ethings E S ot to sgn DO i ht activities

Activities Learn how to cook like a local at Hanoi Cooking Centre, and visit the bookshop at the back. Known progressively as Hang Dao, Hang Ngang and Hang Duong, these Old Quarter streets are closed on weekends and become a Night Market (p. 67). Retail therapy? Take a time out to relax and lay back on a boat in the iconic Halong Bay (p. 76). Dancing

$$

In Vietnam, dancing is informally practiced outdoors every day. If you’re strolling through parks close to sundown, chances are you’ll see older couples practicing their ballroom dance moves. Local insight: You can practice your Latin dance skills with English 82

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language instruction at Beso Latino Vietnam (5th floor, 20 Hang Tre). Cooking Classes

$$$

Vietnamese food is considered one of the healthiest cuisines in the world thanks to the little dairy or oil used. Plus, it’s a pleasure for the taste buds! Recipes use fresh herbs and vegetables complemented by lemongrass, ginger, mint, coriander, cinnamon, lime and basil. A number of small restaurants offer Cooking Classes – try Hanoi Cooking Centre (44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh), Countryside Restaurant (29 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem) or Hidden Hanoi (147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho) Local insight: Get your Vietnamese cookbook at The Bookworm shop and café right behind the Hanoi Cooking Centre.

things to DO SEE

Fitness

activities

Expatriate residents and well-heeled Vietnamese living in Hanoi are serviced by a variety of fitness clubs – many associated with swimming pools such as Pan Pacific Hanoi’s (p. 54) fitness centre and Elite Fitness (4th floor, Indochina Plaza, 241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay). There are gyms and sports clubs to suit any budget from top-end with lake views at the Hanoi Club Hotel (p. 90) to other more budget-conscious establishments. Local insight: You can join the locals at various lakeside locations and make use of the permanently fixed bar and solid concrete weights if you want a workout for free! Climbing VietClimb (40, Lane 76, An Duong) is a large indoor bouldering gym, colour-coded for all ages or proficiencies. They organise great outdoor climbing trips too! Golfing Courses have popped up in the country in the past 10 years, many designed by internationally recognised former golf pros. Most courses are outside the city. At weekends, slots fill up quickly and courses run a tight schedule, so be sure to arrive early. Lakeside shot practice with a view can be done at the driving range at the Hanoi Club (p. 90). Visit vietnamgolf.vn for more information. Local insight: Try the Heron Lake Golf Course Resort, spread over 90 hectares with, predictably, plenty of water hazards. Ice Skating

$

Try the world-class rink at Royal Vincom Megamall (72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan). Endless fun for all ages. Beginners can circle holding a plastic penguin for support! hanoi

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Ethings E S ot to sgn DO i ht

Pedal Boating

$

Truc Bach Lake lake gained international fame when US Senator John McCain parachuted into it in 1967. Today, you can join young Vietnamese lovers who rent swan-shaped pedal boats to explore the lake in relative privacy. Quan Thanh Street, Ba Dinh

activities

Bowling

$

Hanoi hosts a number of venues for aficionados, including Hanoi Star Bowl (168 Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh), accompanied by food outlets, karaoke and pool. Gaming & Casinos

$$$

Many upmarket casinos are found in fancy hotels such as Fortuna (p. 88) and Hanoi Club Hotel (p. 90). Slot machines, poker, roulette and other gaming tables are all popular. Some establishments, such as Win’s Club in the Moevenpick Hanoi (p. 90), one of the city’s newest, are in fact open 24 hours a day. For the everyday Hanoian, lotteries, are the most widespread form of gaming, and tickets are sold by vendors on the roadside. Local insight: Most casinos operate electronic roulette, with a robotic arm that spins the wheel under glass protection. Karaoke

$

Most Vietnamese love karaoke with a passion. So beware, anybody can instantly transform into the Vietnamese Elvis with the addition of a microphone! Want to test your vocal chords? Karaoke X-Men (402 La Thanh, Dong Da) and Top One KTV (168 Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh) are some of the best in town. Local insight: The Eagles’ “Hotel California” is a classic around here. You have a good chance of finding it at pretty much any karaoke haunt. 84

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where to

STAY

The Ann Hanoi

where E E S to ot sSTAY g n i ht

Getaway Villas for Families

villas/airbnb

Want to escape Hanoi’s tourist crowds? Large groups of friends and families seeking to explore Northern Vietnam can stay at five generously spaced villas, located among the picturesque scenery of Hanoi’s suburban districts, The villas in Soc Son, Tam Dao and Son Tay, come equipped with recreational facilities and outdoor areas perfect for BBQ parties and sightseeing, and can accommodate up to 12 people, including children. Here you’ll find no TV or internet – only total relaxation. The villas are managed by Urban Getaway, a young, Hanoi-based company with an expanding pool of exclusive accommodations throughout Vietnam. Reach them at facebook.com/ UrbanGetawayVietnam. They speak English and will be happy to help. Airbnb in Hanoi Care for a more local holiday experience? Airbnb is the way to go, because it lets you live like a local and, ideally, with a local. This means you can get a lot of insight that the average city guide wouldn’t be able to provide. Similar to Saigon, the Airbnb market is exploding, albeit a bit slower. Many Vietnamese sense the opportunity for good business, though the prices still remain affordable for most tourists visiting for a few days, or even a month. There are now far more than 2,000 listings, and counting. Even modern rooms with all the amenities won’t put you back more than $500 a month. Local insight: Check out Dai Anh Khanh Treehouse (facebook. com/daoanhkhanh) for a very special Airbnb experience in Hanoi, or browse the many entries on airbnb.com.

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things to STAY where SEE

Hotel de L’Opera

Get a French-colonial architectural experience at this elegant establishment, predictably a short walk from the Opera House (p. 18). It features 107 luxurious rooms and suites, some with theatrical furnishings, including custom-made beds and claw-foot bathtubs.

hotels

29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem D. 024 6282 5555 hoteldelopera.com

Local insight: There is a spa and cooking classes can be arranged if desired. InterContinental Westlake Enjoying an exclusive view of West Lake, InterContinental offers many great dining and entertainment options. Awarded as “Vietnam’s Most Romantic Resort” in 2017, many of its 293 rooms have lake views. 5 Tu Hoa street, Tay Ho D. 024 6270 8888 hanoi.intercontinental.com

Local insight: Across a torch-lit bridge is the Sunset Bar (p. 54). Cocktails at water level – unforgettable! JW Marriott

Absolute luxury in this impressive, futuristic glass structure in Hanoi’s business district, with lawns and a great lake view. Here you’ll find many choices for fine dining, including the French Grill, the Chinese-inspired Crystal Jade Café Palace (p. 36), Akira Back for Japanese and a bit of everything at JW Café. 8 Do Duc, Tu Liem D. 024 3833 5588 marriott.com/hanoi

Local insight: The National Convention Centre is just next door. hanoi

87

where E E S to ot sSTAY g n i ht hotels

Sofitel Legend Metropole Experience grandeur and elegance at one of Hanoi's most celebrated 5-star establishments. Located just up the road from the Opera House (p. 18), this award-winning city icon provides guests with the opulence of a bygone era with its 364 rooms and 22 suites. 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem D. 024 3826 6919 sofitel.com

Local insight: The rooms’ dÊcor reflects either classic French or elegant neo-classical themes. Fortuna Hotel Hanoi Located in the financial center of Hanoi near many of the city's embassies and government offices, Fortuna Hotel has been serving business and leisure clients since 1998. The hotel meets all guest requirements under one roof: 350 well-furnished rooms, a luxurious Capital Lounge with exclusive amenities and many event and meeting spaces. 6B Lang Ha Street, Ba Dinh D. 024 3831 3333 fortuna.vn fortunahanoi@fortuna.vn

Local insight: Fortuna has three restaurants for Chinese, Japanese and Western favourites. 88

citypassguide.com

things to STAY where SEE

The Lapis Boutique Hanoi Hotel This new 4-star luxury boutique hotel, located right in the heart of Hanoi near Hoan Kiem Lake, is perfect for business travellers looking to be in the centre of the action. Nearby large banks, embassies and office headquarters abound, but this hotel is more than its location. Guests also enjoy a rooftop infinity pool and a restaurant serving international cuisine.

hotels

21 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem D. 024 3633 3333 thelapishotel.com

Local insight: The health club here is exceptional, and includes a swimming pool, gym, jacuzzi, sauna and steam bath. Hanoi Emerald Waters Hotel & Spa Located in the Old Quarter (p. 17) near Hoan Kiem Lake (p. 16), this cosy hotel is home to the Salmon Run restaurant, which specialises in seafood. Interesting packages are available that will let you to travel on to places like Sapa and Halong Bay (p. 76). 47 Lo Su street, Hoan Kiem D. 024 3978 2222 info@hanoiemeraldwatershotel.com hanoiemeraldwatershotel.com

Local insight: Downstairs is the EF Massage and Spa. Just relax.

Conifer Hotels

Located in Hanoi’s French quarters, five minutes from Hoan Kiem lake, Conifer Boutique Hotel features more than forty elegant rooms. The hotel has a peaceful atmosphere that makes it a splendid choice for both business and leisure travellers. Conifer Boutique Hotel - 9 Ly Dao Thanh, Hoan Kiem D. Conifer Grand Hotel - 42 Tho Xuong, Hoan Kiem 024 3266 9999 - 024 3266 8888 rsvn@coniferhotel.com.vn coniferhotel.com.vn

Local insight: The area around the hotel is checkered with European restaurants and cafes. hanoi

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where E E S to ot sSTAY g n i ht

Apricot Hotel The rooms feature city or lake views, with similar vistas from the rooftop bar and pool. Classic comfort. 136 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem D.

Lotte Hotel Hanoi

further suggestions

Multi-storey luxury and comfort. Every room (and the bar!) has panoramic city views. 54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh D.

Moevenpick Hanoi Top-quality Swiss hospitality in the middle of Hanoi. A classic hotel with one of the best breakfast buffets in town. 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem D.

Somerset Grand Hanoi Modern one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments, located near restaurants, bars and a gym. 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem D.

Hanoi La Siesta Hotel & Spa A compact, well-designed and peaceful place to stay with a service team that goes the extra mile. 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem D.

Hilton Garden Inn Hanoi Its well-appointed rooms and business centre make it incredibly convenient. 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem D.

Mercure Hanoi La Gare Centrally located with 100 contemporary rooms. Western and Asian cuisine can be found in the terrace cafĂŠ. 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem D.

The Hanoi Club Hotel Waterside accommodation and serviced residences in West Lake. An integrated resort for young and old. 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho D. 90

citypassguide.com

things to STAY where SEE hotels

91

hanoi

Sofitel Metropole

where E E S to ot sSTAY g n i ht

Aquarius Grand A small Old Quarter charmer with a legendarily welcoming staff. Rooms are small but well designed, and your stay comes with a Vietnamese breakfast. 90B Nguyen Huu Huan, Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem D.

Hanoi La Siesta Diamond Hotel

further suggestions

Cosy Old Quarter (p. 17) hotel and spa in the middle of the action. 32 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem D.

Hanoi Royal Palace Hotel 2 This is an Old Quarter favourite. The rooms boast balconies and city views. 95 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem D.

O'Gallery Premier Hotel & Spa Art gallery style hotel with spacious rooms, a buffet breakfast and complimentary fruit and snacks everyday! 122 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem D.

Oriental Central Hotel

Enjoy affordable luxury and colonial French architecture in a very central location. 39 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem D.

Serene Premier Hotel Located at a small street in the heart of the Old Quarter, this hotel is perfect if you just want a quiet, comfortable rest at night after a long day exploring the city. 10C Yen Thai, Hoan Kiem D.

Splendid Star Grand Hotel

A boutique establishment in the centre of the Old Quarter, a five-minute walk to Hoan Kiem Lake (p. 16). 14 Tho Xuong, Hoan Kiem D. 92

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Hanoi

MAPS Lao Cai Sapa Halong Hoa Binh

Hai Phong Cat Ba island Ninh Binh

Points of Interest ATM

ATM Quang Tri

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Hoang Sa Archipelago Vietnam

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Bien Hoa Phan Thiet Ho Chi Minh City Ho Tram Long Hai My Tho Vung Tau Can Tho Vinh Long

Con Dao Island

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Where to stay Apricot Hotel

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Where to stay Hanoi Club Intercontinental Pan Pacific Hanoi Sheraton Hanoi

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